Exhaust Manifold Leak

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DJCloz said:
@Slashzero if they are from a 2000, they could possibly be cracked and cause ticking also. I believe the years affected are 2000-2003. DT Headers is your after market option. last I checked, they were about $900, and just as much to install. but you will get some performance gains?
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DT Headers? Performance gains, you say? :hmm: I do like the sound of that!

I priced all the OEM parts from McGeorge Toyota (which seems to have the best prices), and it came out to $610 including shipping.

At ~$900 for DT Headers, does that include all of the parts needed for the install?

If I have the right one selected on the Doug Thorley web site, the price is $710 (I think for both driver and passenger side? I hope?)
 
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Thanks for your response. This is what I was thinking as well, but wanted to tap into the vast knowledge and wisdom of all you folks. :)

And now @DJCloz has made me aware of Doug Thorley headers, so I think that’s the route I will eventually take when the ticking bothers me enough to replace them.

I’m assuming these would be the correct ones?

1998-2004 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series / Lexus LX470 4.7L Short Tube Headers

I have other projects like replacing the heater hoses and Ts, unfreezing the parking break, figuring out why the brakes are squealing and possibly painting the calipers (so my mother-in-law doesn’t keep pointing out they are rusty), which I need to do first.

outdoorsman said:
I myself would not install exhaust madifolds from a wrecking yard. Unless they were confirmed from a very low mileage 100 series.

There is way to much labor involved in changing them out to install some that are going to possible crack in the near future.
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If going with OEM, I'd only replace bad exhaust manifold (cracked) not just because old. I'd first make sure it is the exhaust manifold flange that's cracked.

Note: Loose spark plug, loose exhaust manifold or bad exhaust gasket or hole in exhaust pipe. These all can sound like a cracked exhaust manifold. Inspect, inspect & inspect.
 
Thank you! I will try. I wish the service manuals were available and I had a physical copy on hand so that I could be more informed and precise in what areas I should be inspecting, and what to look for.

If I do end up replacing them down the road, I’m pretty sure I will go with DT headers instead of OEM.

In any case, I will start with the spark plugs and move on from there.

Also, if you don’t mind me asking, where did you get all your experience and knowledge? I’ve seen you comment in other threads, and you are always very informative, helpful, and knowledgeable. With your response you’ve given me several options to check before even considering the need to replace the manifolds.

2001LC said:
If going with OEM, I'd only replace bad exhaust manifold (cracked) not just because old. I'd first make sure it is the exhaust manifold flange that's cracked.

Note: Loose spark plug, loose exhaust manifold or bad exhaust gasket or hole in exhaust pipe. These all can sound like a cracked exhaust manifold. Inspect, inspect & inspect.
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Manuals (FSM) are available if you look.
1998 - 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser Factory Repair Manuals
FSM, Factory Service Manual, online? where to buy? which one?
Factory Service Manual ( FSM)
Search ebay & CL for hard copy.
TIS for most up to date online pay as you go.

@Ali FJ80 gave me a good DIY procedure for isolating exhaust leak. Use compressed air to pressurize the exhaust manifold. Then spray soapy water on exhaust manifold and watch for bubbles. Keep in mind some exhaust valves may be in open position. So turn crank 180 degrees at a time if leak not found first time through. You can see exhaust manifold from fender wells and from underneath, with all shielding off. To start isolating, put ear to fender well. One side you'll hear a loud tick.

Some shops have a really sweet smoke machine, they can hook-up to do same thing. It the fast easiest way.

May have already been covered in this thread; If ticking goes away once engine at operating temp, you need not fix. If not, you must fix!

"Also, if you don’t mind me asking, where did you get all your experience and knowledge?" You can read the first link in my signture for more on me.
 
Most common leak is the flange of exhaust pipe were it butts up to head. Sometimes as engine heats exhaust tube(s), it/they expand sealing off leak. If sealed (tick stops) at operating temp, then I've no concerns.

If leaking (bad tick) at operating temp continues, it can affect o2 sensors signal and CAT(s) health. This in turn may affect A/F ratio signal to & from ECU.

Be advised loose spark plugs have near same tick sound, and must be corrected even if stops when op temp reached.

Bad exhaust gasket tick as well.
 
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So, the ticking I was hearing just went away. I got down and listened on both PS and DS, nothing.

Only things I've done were:
  1. Add coolant (Toyota pink pre-mixed)
  2. Take the engine cover off and add some foam to replace what was missing.
It's a little cooler today, in the 50s, and the previous times I heard it it was in the 60s. I'm grasping at straws.

I suppose I should just be happy it is gone, at least for now.
 
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I had one driving me nuts, coming and going. I was just about to pull it off, then it stopped, only to come back. The Toyota records indicated both exhaust manifold had already be replaced. I spoke with Christo Slee, he'd never seen a replacement leak, no one I spoke with had. I finally isolated leak with a spray bottle of soapy water. It was the typical crack in manifold.

Usually best time to hear is after 8 hour cool down. Then put ear to each fender well. Also have someone else drive away as you listen, or drive next to concrete wall.
 
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I have had a driver's side ticking sound for 40k to 50k now. 175k total now on a 2000 . Goes away after it warms up. My mechanic said damage could be done to the valves if I don't replace. Is this BS?
 
Hate to shift this thread to a DT vs stock OEM manifold argument....

OK, instead do we have welded up stock manifolds and how did those work out for you?

@LandCruiserPhil what you say?
 
Hah! I'm pretty sure when I finally have my leak fixed, it will be with DT, so is like to know, too!

YardPig said:
Hate to shift this thread to a DT vs stock OEM manifold argument....

OK, instead do we have welded up stock manifolds and how did those work out for you?

@LandCruiserPhil what you say?
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So I am dealing with a similar ticking/clicking noise on my 2001 LC, but it only seems to show up under load accelerating, not if I am just revving the engine parked. It also does not go away after warming up. I have owned the car for the last few months so until now thought the noise was normal.

Does the 2UZ make clicking noises for any other reason? Is this potentially normal?
 
Fuel injectors tick, coils tick, valves tick, normal piston slap tick (AKA normal toyota tick).

Cracked exhaust manifold tick, is most often just one side. By putting ear to each fender well, you'll generally hear a difference from side to side. Having someone drive away as you stand at crub, you'll hear clearly. Driving along a concert wall and you'll hear clearly.
 
abuck99 said:
Fuel Pulsation Damper ticks as well...when needing replacement.
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I didn't know that. One more item to my inspection list;)
 
2001LC said:
Fuel injectors tick, coils tick, valves tick, normal piston slap tick (AKA normal toyota tick).

Cracked exhaust manifold tick, is most often just one side. By putting ear to each fender well, you'll generally hear a difference from side to side. Having someone drive away as you stand at crub, you'll hear clearly. Driving along a concert wall and you'll hear clearly.
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Got it thank you. I do hear it when I drive next to a wall I believe on either side, but it sounds like this may not rule it out. Does only hearing under load not cross cracked manifolds off the list?
 
No it doesn't cross off list. If while engine at op temp and you hear while driving under load next to wall, it's very likely cracked ex manifold. It also could be loose spark plugs, exhaust gasket(s) or loose O2's or hole in exhuast. But I've never heard fuel injectors, coils, toyota tick or other stuff while driving next to wall!

The LH is most difficult side manifold to replace as steerings in the way. Both sides can be a big deal to fix if from rust belt. Sometime stud break in the head. I was taking to a cop the other day that had just bought a 100 series. He took to a Toyota Dealer to have exhaust manifolds (cracked) replaced. They stop during the job to call him and say they'll need to pull engine due to broken and frozen studs, raising cost to.... ouch.

There is a couple of test to confirm spot where it's leaking:
  • One is a smoke test which most shops have.
  • The other is DIY soap test. Plug exhaust with air hose from compressor and spray soap water on exhaust manifold. Bubbles tell the store:idea:
 
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