Exhaust Manifold Leak

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So, I never got around to this repair due to life getting in the way of life, but am revisiting the topic. Before I go buy a new part and spend time replacing, I am contemplating trying some of this JB Weld Extreme Heat to see if I have any luck with it. Has anyone used the Extreme Heat product before? I read some positive reviews on Amazon by people trying to repair cracked manifolds, and Napa did a nice write up on it here:

How To Use JB Weld ExtremeHeat - NAPA Know How Blog

I figure at worst I am out $8. Thoughts?
 
Question: Does it matter what side of the vehicle the drivers side is? or is it just beca
NicB said:
So, I never got around to this repair due to life getting in the way of life, but am revisiting the topic. Before I go buy a new part and spend time replacing, I am contemplating trying some of this JB Weld Extreme Heat to see if I have any luck with it. Has anyone used the Extreme Heat product before? I read some positive reviews on Amazon by people trying to repair cracked manifolds, and Napa did a nice write up on it here:

How To Use JB Weld ExtremeHeat - NAPA Know How Blog

I figure at worst I am out $8. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Did you end up trying this? i too have a tube of it and wondered if it would work as it says it would
 
What do you All think here- Aftermarket Headers, or OEM/Aftermarket Standard part to replace? I have the ticking and it drives me nuts.
 
Placemotorsports said:
Guess it really depends on if you want the noise to just go away or if you have the extra money to spend and want a little power along with it.
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I just figured- since I'm "in there" why not upgrade? Will the extra power give even worse fuel mileage, or better- since it would be "breathing" better?
 
Reviving this thread as I'm in the same spot here. I have what appears to be a pretty mean exhaust leak on both sides, bad enough that I get pretty significant fumes in the car when the heat is on. Generally I would do the 'while I'm at it' upgrade of the headers, but given that I have an LX with AHC, it seems like the install might tough. I park on the street, and while I'm pretty handy, if an install drags on for more than a weekend I'd be in a tough spot, needing to move the car without a header.

My real question here is whether the install of DT headers is significantly more difficult from an access perspective than the install of the stockers because of the tubing orientation, especially with the consideration of the AHC.
 
I ended up having my local shop install the DT headers on my 2000 LX. I called DT, and because they couldn't ship some right away, the cut me a little discount to compensate. Nice service.
Ticking was slowly getting louder, and lasting a lot longer after start up. With the Thorley headers, no real change in exhaust sound (which is good), and if there is an improvement in performance, it is minor. But I no longer have people asking me what is wrong with my truck.
 
jmaclaug said:
I ended up having my local shop install the DT headers on my 2000 LX. I called DT, and because they couldn't ship some right away, the cut me a little discount to compensate. Nice service.
Ticking was slowly getting louder, and lasting a lot longer after start up. With the Thorley headers, no real change in exhaust sound (which is good), and if there is an improvement in performance, it is minor. But I no longer have people asking me what is wrong with my truck.
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How much was the labor to install?
 
jmaclaug said:
I ended up having my local shop install the DT headers on my 2000 LX. I called DT, and because they couldn't ship some right away, the cut me a little discount to compensate. Nice service.
Ticking was slowly getting louder, and lasting a lot longer after start up. With the Thorley headers, no real change in exhaust sound (which is good), and if there is an improvement in performance, it is minor. But I no longer have people asking me what is wrong with my truck.
Click to expand...
I have the same problem, if you don't mind, can you say how much your local shop charged? Also, do you know if the DT's fit directly/perfectly? I called my local shop today and they stated that a lot of headers they install end up not lining up quite right and they may need to charge more if they need to customize anything to make them fit correctly. Perhaps you also know if all of the prior issues/kinks with DT's are worked out?
 
JWick said:
I have the same problem, if you don't mind, can you say how much your local shop charged? Also, do you know if the DT's fit directly/perfectly? I called my local shop today and they stated that a lot of headers they install end up not lining up quite right and they may need to charge more if they need to customize anything to make them fit correctly. Perhaps you also know if all of the prior issues/kinks with DT's are worked out?
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Of course a nice new set of headers is desirable but its an expensive and painful job on the UZ. I fixed mine with 'Manifol;d cement' cost $10 for a squeeze tube. I have a video uploaded here on how i did it. Ticking has not returned since and i live in a very hot climate were it is regularly put to the strength test
 
Formulaonehd said:
Of course a nice new set of headers is desirable but its an expensive and painful job on the UZ. I fixed mine with 'Manifol;d cement' cost $10 for a squeeze tube. I have a video uploaded here on how i did it. Ticking has not returned since and i live in a very hot climate were it is regularly put to the strength test
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That’s what I’d like to do. How much stuff did you have to get out of the way to get access to the areas that needed to be patched up? Did both sides need work or just one?
 
I installed the DT headers a couple of weeks ago merely for performance gains and they fit perfectly and look and feel 20 times better than the Toyota ones. If anyone is interested it's on my build thread. Also I'll sell you my stock ones cheap if you want them they are not cracked with 90k miles.
 
2002TLCyes said:
That’s what I’d like to do. How much stuff did you have to get out of the way to get access to the areas that needed to be patched up? Did both sides need work or just one?
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The drivers side is he hardest because of the steering column, my car is right hand drive so i took out the airbox, removed he heat shield and smeared the cement to a cold manifold all around the flange area. Run the car to operating temp and that seals the cement. Passenger side wasnt too hard because the steering column wasnt in the way bu same deal just have to get the heat shield off
 
I have a 2000 100series with 231k miles. Definitely not wanting to spend the $$$ to put new DT or similar exhaust manifolds in with high mileage... Sooooo, I just ordered a bunch of J-B Weld 37901 6 Pack 3 oz. Extreme Heat Temperature Resistant Metallic Paste
Amazon product ASIN B01ID9NM2W
I'm hoping to do a shop vac/soapy water test on the manifold to figure out where the leak is. Once I figure out where its coming from exactly (I'm fairly certain it's the standard issue right at the flange where the metal is thinnest... but don't know if there are other spots as well) I'll get the JBweld on there and see if it fixes the problem. At the same time as I do the driver side, I'll test the rest of the exhaust system and the drivers side manifold to see if there's any super small leaks that are not adding to the tick just yet but may be on their way. Hopefully this will be a viable alternative to the 1900 dollars I was quoted this morning from my Toyota dealer (140$/hr @ 8.5 hrs plus 549$ for the part) Jesus...

I found this video pretty helpful although he is looking at a mustang engine which will be pretty different than the 100series


Hopefully this will work and others will be able to fix this problem DIY instead of dropping a boat load of money into this at a dealer/ind.wrench. I'm not savvy enough to do the job myself and not wanting DT headers or any of the other options that ppl have done.

I'll update as this happens...
 
mookamatook said:
I have a 2000 100series with 231k miles. Definitely not wanting to spend the $$$ to put new DT or similar exhaust manifolds in with high mileage... Sooooo, I just ordered a bunch of J-B Weld 37901 6 Pack 3 oz. Extreme Heat Temperature Resistant Metallic Paste
Amazon product ASIN B01ID9NM2W
I'm hoping to do a shop vac/soapy water test on the manifold to figure out where the leak is. Once I figure out where its coming from exactly (I'm fairly certain it's the standard issue right at the flange where the metal is thinnest... but don't know if there are other spots as well) I'll get the JBweld on there and see if it fixes the problem. At the same time as I do the driver side, I'll test the rest of the exhaust system and the drivers side manifold to see if there's any super small leaks that are not adding to the tick just yet but may be on their way. Hopefully this will be a viable alternative to the 1900 dollars I was quoted this morning from my Toyota dealer (140$/hr @ 8.5 hrs plus 549$ for the part) Jesus...

I found this video pretty helpful although he is looking at a mustang engine which will be pretty different than the 100series


Hopefully this will work and others will be able to fix this problem DIY instead of dropping a boat load of money into this at a dealer/ind.wrench. I'm not savvy enough to do the job myself and not wanting DT headers or any of the other options that ppl have done.

I'll update as this happens...
Click to expand...


How'd this go? Curious, as I am in the same boat (except I have an 07 120 (GX)). I get ticking under load between 2-3.5K RPM, and it seems to be coming from the passenger side. It also doesn't seem to go away at all after I get up to temp. The truck is about 9mos old to me, and when I got it I was getting exhaust codes. I installed defoulers for the rear O2 sensors and haven't tossed codes since. I imagine though, after reading about this a lot, that the codes related to the ticking and screwing with my cats. I also get some less than ideal smell from the exhaust (not horrible, but not awesome). Could the cats have died independently,? Sure. But I'd guess the leak contributed to the failure. It's a mild tick, so I'm not sure concerned about it damaging things just yet. BUT, it bothers me to no end...it makes the truck seem like a jalopy.

I proactively bought the JB product and tried poking at the area a bit when I had a couple hours. Being as mine is an 07, things like nuts and bolts like to cling. After getting a stiff neck messing with it for a bit, I backed off and put things back together. Seems like it'd be a bear of a job if .

Still, I'm kicking around the idea of bringing it into a shop, but need to know what I want to do if it's under the knife and needs parts (instead of a gasket/gaskets). DT headers (if plug and play), replace one manifold, or look to weld...

Interested in hearing more from the group before going one way or another. Ideally I'd do DT, but really don't wan to drop that kind of scratch during an iffy economic time for something not all that needed. Does anyone have a good write up on removal of everything passenger side (including heat shield) so I could visually eyeball the manifold for leaks and treat it while I'm in there?

Thanks.
 
erkelbot said:
How'd this go? Curious, as I am in the same boat (except I have an 07 120 (GX)). I get ticking under load between 2-3.5K RPM, and it seems to be coming from the passenger side. It also doesn't seem to go away at all after I get up to temp. The truck is about 9mos old to me, and when I got it I was getting exhaust codes. I installed defoulers for the rear O2 sensors and haven't tossed codes since. I imagine though, after reading about this a lot, that the codes related to the ticking and screwing with my cats. I also get some less than ideal smell from the exhaust (not horrible, but not awesome). Could the cats have died independently,? Sure. But I'd guess the leak contributed to the failure. It's a mild tick, so I'm not sure concerned about it damaging things just yet. BUT, it bothers me to no end...it makes the truck seem like a jalopy.

I proactively bought the JB product and tried poking at the area a bit when I had a couple hours. Being as mine is an 07, things like nuts and bolts like to cling. After getting a stiff neck messing with it for a bit, I backed off and put things back together. Seems like it'd be a bear of a job if .

Still, I'm kicking around the idea of bringing it into a shop, but need to know what I want to do if it's under the knife and needs parts (instead of a gasket/gaskets). DT headers (if plug and play), replace one manifold, or look to weld...

Interested in hearing more from the group before going one way or another. Ideally I'd do DT, but really don't wan to drop that kind of scratch during an iffy economic time for something not all that needed. Does anyone have a good write up on removal of everything passenger side (including heat shield) so I could visually eyeball the manifold for leaks and treat it while I'm in there?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
I haven't done it yet. I may not need to actually... i brought it into my shop and they didn't think there was a leak so I think I may have been mistaking the ticking for something else. I don't hear ticking anymore... I replaced the spark plugs throughout and the lower ball joints. I have some doubts that the clicking was coming from either of those two things but who knows, maybe a belt or the fan was just touching something and resetting things in the and around the engine did it.
I still have a feeling that I have a little manifold leak so I'm keeping the jb weld until I hear it again and then I'll do the quick fix. I don't think it makes sense to replace the whole thing with the price tag a shop wants and my apprehension to doing it my self. I'm at 235k miles and am trying to minimize big fixes these days.
 
mookamatook said:
I haven't done it yet. I may not need to actually... i brought it into my shop and they didn't think there was a leak so I think I may have been mistaking the ticking for something else. I don't hear ticking anymore... I replaced the spark plugs throughout and the lower ball joints. I have some doubts that the clicking was coming from either of those two things but who knows, maybe a belt or the fan was just touching something and resetting things in the and around the engine did it.
I still have a feeling that I have a little manifold leak so I'm keeping the jb weld until I hear it again and then I'll do the quick fix. I don't think it makes sense to replace the whole thing with the price tag a shop wants and my apprehension to doing it my self. I'm at 235k miles and am trying to minimize big fixes these days.
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Hey, if the ticking is gone just leave it be. I don't blame you. Ripping apart the manifold doesn't sound awesome to me -- with very little upside other than irritating noise.
 
@erkelbot did you ever mess with your manifolds? I've got bad gas mileage combined with exhaust smell in the cab, so I'm thinking this is the issue. Would like to do a cheap fix if possible as I'm sitting at 330k miles.
 
Eliot said:
@erkelbot did you ever mess with your manifolds? I've got bad gas mileage combined with exhaust smell in the cab, so I'm thinking this is the issue. Would like to do a cheap fix if possible as I'm sitting at 330k miles.
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Attempted to removed the heat shields today to try and patch the manifolds and the bolts holding them on were completely rusted and the heads just rounded off. Looks like I won't be able to try and patch.

Does anyone have know if the heat shields come off with the manifolds? My next step is to just move forward with replacing the manifolds. Appreciate any insight.
 
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