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- #521
ABS DELETE
A few months I ago I tossed the factory LSPV and used a manual proportioning valve in its place. Well today I finally went all the way and got rid of ABS. I haven't tried it out yet - still waiting for a helper to bleed the brakes. I really need to get me a power bleeder. But judging from feedback I've heard I'm sure this will be a big improvement in braking power and getting rid of the spongy feeling.
Getting rid of the ABS brain leaves a giant open space in the fender well - so much more room for activities! So I relocated the charcoal canister and used the remaining space to mount my Blue Sea fuse block. Here's a photo of the final layout:
Here's how it looked before:
Started by ordering a brake tee for the Toyota brake lines. I gave away my factory tee to another member, lesson learned! Keep all your spare parts. Reminder, Toyota brake fittings are 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare. Got the tee for $8 from here: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/universal-brake-line-tees.html
The tee is used to tie the two front brakes lines together; left and right.
The Willwood manual proportioning valve from my last project is simply sitting by the booster.
I then took the factory charcoal canister bracket and cut off its rear support leg. I mounted it to two holes leftover from the ABS pump. One on the floor and one up behind the AC lines. Worked great! Two bolts is definitely sturdy enough to hold this thing in place.
With the ABS pump out of the way and the charcoal canister relocated I had more room to finally make a good mount for my Blue Sea fuse block. Used some 3/16" flat bar and fabbed up a mount using existing holes from where the charcoal canister was. The spot was just right for this!
Close-up of my bird turd welding and fabrication. The mount actually has two support legs.
And since folks may ask what needs to be done to delete ABS, here's a write-up I put together in another section. This is how you delete ABS and the LSPV. This is for offroad use only. Not for street-driven vehicles. Do so at your own risk. I am not responsible for property damage or bodily harm inflicted on yourself or others because you chose to modify your braking system. Don't sue me - I'm poor.
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Here's what you do with the ABS lines. Green lines are kept, red lines get deleted. You will use one of the red lines to reconnect the front brakes as noted below:
Here's what happens with the tee underneath the MC and its lines
Then the elbow in your driver's side fender well
And lastly at the rear where the LSPV is/was. Clear as mud?
A few months I ago I tossed the factory LSPV and used a manual proportioning valve in its place. Well today I finally went all the way and got rid of ABS. I haven't tried it out yet - still waiting for a helper to bleed the brakes. I really need to get me a power bleeder. But judging from feedback I've heard I'm sure this will be a big improvement in braking power and getting rid of the spongy feeling.
Getting rid of the ABS brain leaves a giant open space in the fender well - so much more room for activities! So I relocated the charcoal canister and used the remaining space to mount my Blue Sea fuse block. Here's a photo of the final layout:

Here's how it looked before:

Started by ordering a brake tee for the Toyota brake lines. I gave away my factory tee to another member, lesson learned! Keep all your spare parts. Reminder, Toyota brake fittings are 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare. Got the tee for $8 from here: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/universal-brake-line-tees.html

The tee is used to tie the two front brakes lines together; left and right.


The Willwood manual proportioning valve from my last project is simply sitting by the booster.

I then took the factory charcoal canister bracket and cut off its rear support leg. I mounted it to two holes leftover from the ABS pump. One on the floor and one up behind the AC lines. Worked great! Two bolts is definitely sturdy enough to hold this thing in place.

With the ABS pump out of the way and the charcoal canister relocated I had more room to finally make a good mount for my Blue Sea fuse block. Used some 3/16" flat bar and fabbed up a mount using existing holes from where the charcoal canister was. The spot was just right for this!

Close-up of my bird turd welding and fabrication. The mount actually has two support legs.

And since folks may ask what needs to be done to delete ABS, here's a write-up I put together in another section. This is how you delete ABS and the LSPV. This is for offroad use only. Not for street-driven vehicles. Do so at your own risk. I am not responsible for property damage or bodily harm inflicted on yourself or others because you chose to modify your braking system. Don't sue me - I'm poor.


Here's what you do with the ABS lines. Green lines are kept, red lines get deleted. You will use one of the red lines to reconnect the front brakes as noted below:

Here's what happens with the tee underneath the MC and its lines

Then the elbow in your driver's side fender well

And lastly at the rear where the LSPV is/was. Clear as mud?

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