Builds Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap (6 Viewers)

[GLTHFJ60]

I'm not confused. It goes without saying that the main power lead goes from the Battery terminal to starter, no relay in the mix.
I'm talking about what you are calling "1. Starter Solenoid circuit" The diesel starter Bendix takes more amperage than the Gasser harness will provide reliably through the the interior ignition circuit. So this is where guys run into problems post swap.. a few months down the road, when the wife is driving it of course. Do it right the first time and wire in a Toyota starter relay, just like Toyota did on every diesel Cruiser and save yourself the aggravation of having to redo it properly later.

The post wasn't catered towards your questions

Do you have a picture from the EWD for a diesel harness to show the difference? I'm curious to see how it's wired. I suspect it's like the last pic I posted above.

I will say that this whole discussion started out by articulating why the ford relay isn't necessary, not to prove the point that all solenoids are bad. It's totally acceptable to put in a relay for the solenoid signal circuit, it's just not always necessary in my experience.

 

[Rock40]

I'm curious to know also. Frankly, I'll wire this up in whatever configuration will make it most reliable. I had not heard that the gasser start circuit gets picky/weird/won't start down the road.

Just to clarify one last time, I am NOT using one of the 4.5kw 24volt Toyota starters here. I installed a 12 volt conversion bit from OZ and I'm sure it's drawing less amps than a factory unit. I will meter it out, just haven't got around to it yet.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Thanks everyone, I get it now.
Cheers,
jan

 

[Rock40]

Fabbed up an ACSD delete plate today, it's 3/8" 6061

Installed...

I also finished the top brackets for the radiator fan shroud. The mount tab on the fan shroud side is tapped/threaded to accept a metric 8x1.25 bolt.
Can anyone identify the nipple shown in the pic and tell me what it's for? It on the upper left side of the radiator tank, I'm guessing I'm going to have to plug it...

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Yes, you have to plug it. I think it is for the automatic transmission?
Be careful, I broke mine off when I tried to plug it, they can be quite brittle. And that then ruins your radiator, ad no shop wants or can fix the plastic parts. So I had mine recored with an all metal 4 core.

 

[70sguy]

Don't block it off. It's for the coolant overflow tank

 

[Rock40]

Don't block it off. It's for the coolant overflow tank

Really?? I put some air on it and it feeds right into the upper tank. That means it will be under pressure when hot. The overflow looks like it's right in the side (just underneath) the radiator cap. Am I missing something here?

 

[Rock40]

Jan and I have been discussing this:

It's mounted behind the boost compensator and running the P/N it comes back as a throttle position sensor. What the heck?

Jan told me he was able to locate it in several UK and Japanese diagrams but neither of us understand the point or purpose of it given the mechanical nature of these engines. Is it talking to the cruise circuit maybe?? Please chip in if you can shed any light on this. My UK version 1HD-T has one also...

 

[70sguy]

The post wasn't catered towards your questions

Do you have a picture from the EWD for a diesel harness to show the difference? I'm curious to see how it's wired. I suspect it's like the last pic I posted above.

I will say that this whole discussion started out by articulating why the ford relay isn't necessary, not to prove the point that all solenoids are bad. It's totally acceptable to put in a relay for the solenoid signal circuit, it's just not always necessary in my experience.

Yeah, it's basically like that last diagram, but the relay pulls power from battery terminal through a fusible link.
The Ford relay probably isn't going to last wired in as per diagram you posted. A 2.5 KW starter motor will pull a lot of amps turning over a 6cyl Diesel engine. The Ford relay would probably work in place of the Toyota relay wired in according to the attached Toyota EWD, but I have no personal experience with Ford parts.

 

[70sguy]

Really?? I put some air on it and it feeds right into the upper tank. That means it will be under pressure when hot. The overflow looks like it's right in the side (just underneath) the radiator cap. Am I missing something here?

Shoot, that what happens when I look at pic on my iPhone.... Yes coolant overflow is by rad cap. The FJ80 rad I used on my 97 -FT swap has no such port. 1FZ-FE specific spigot at any rate.

 

[70sguy]

Jan and I have been discussing this: View attachment 1174356
It's mounted behind the boost compensator and running the P/N it comes back as a throttle position sensor. What the heck?

Jan told me he was able to locate it in several UK and Japanese diagrams but neither of us understand the point or purpose of it given the mechanical nature of these engines. Is it talking to the cruise circuit maybe?? Please chip in if you can shed any light on this. My UK version 1HD-T has one also...

That's a Throttle position sensor. It goes on all post 93 automatic tranny spec pumps, and for some reason the EGR equipped 1HD-FT, I guess throttle position value is used in the EGR control system. I wouldn't expect to see one on a 1HD-T unless it came off the line bolted to A442F

 

[tweeek]

Your mystery nipple is known as water bypass hose no.3. specific to the 1FZ which is why it would not be on 70sguy's FJ80 Rad. Cap it, but be careful, the nipple is known to break.

 

[Rock40]

That's a Throttle position sensor. It goes on all post 93 automatic tranny spec pumps, and for some reason the EGR equipped 1HD-FT, I guess throttle position value is used in the EGR control system. I wouldn't expect to see one on a 1HD-T unless it came off the line bolted to A442F

NICE! Thanks for the info on that, your response explains it. The 1HD-T I have was mated to an auto tranny and my FT had the UK spec EGR circuit. Now I know not to worry about hooking those wires up, thanks again!

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

NICE! Thanks for the info on that, your response explains it. The 1HD-T I have was mated to an auto tranny and my FT had the UK spec EGR circuit. Now I know not to worry about hooking those wires up, thanks again!

Excellent!!

 

[CycloSteve]

Productive day up at Valley Hybrids with Dom and Georg. We were able to spin-up my OZ spec motor which was originally slated to go in the 45...plans change...as it will go into the 80, and the UK spec one will eventually end up in the 45.

The motor had been spun up once earlier this year with two cylinders not running full compression. Audibly off. The protocol was to run the motor for less than a minute, let it settle, and repeat several times, checking to see how it idled and revved through the range. It actually started easily once we setup two batteries in parallel (yes 12v starter), as the beast was hungry for amps. Coughed a bit, then settled in nicely. Zero blow-by coming from the valve cover.

Compression figures came up to spec and were within 25psi, so we are GTG. Aiming to get the truck prepped and into the shop right after the new year so the motor and trans can be wedged in, and everything else hooked up.

Look ma, no turbo! Actually not as loud as you would expect running straight manifolds. Will post up a video when I figure that out.

Roller rockers are beautiful!

Brought the tacho and a few other bits home. Anyone else have a single red overboost light? Most I have seen either have no lights (1HZ), or one green and one red light. I assume this one only lights up when overboost is hit.

Tacho and blanking plate (instead of PRNDL) installed. Any great ideas on what to place over the "UNLEADED FUEL ONLY" on the speedo?

Back side of the cluster. Now there are five screws connecting to the Tach: TM, Turbo, IGN, and the two Kanji ones to the upper and lower right of the picture. No connection for the T-Belt.

 

[Rock40]

Dang man! Looking good. I'm not sure I'll be able to stand it if you post a video of that FT just idling away though...

 

[CycloSteve]

We are taking a slightly different approach with the motor, since I have two.

Getting one of them started and confirmed good was the first step. We still need to get it onto the work stand to replace all of the seals, gaskets, BEB's, painted, IP serviced, and so on before it can get into the truck. One step forward. This motor is a bit cleaner than my UK one, which is nice. I need to decide if I steal the turbo off of the UK motor, or go with the GTurbo which was purchased for this engine.

These motors are dead-simple to run, and truly one wire needed to energize the fuel cutoff. "ECM, we don't need no stinking ECM."

 

[IanB]

Brought the tacho and a few other bits home. Anyone else have a single red overboost light? Most I have seen either have no lights (1HZ), or one green and one red light. I assume this one only lights up when overboost is hit.

'90-'92 HDJ81 tachs had the green "boost" and red "overboost" lights, '93+ had just the red light. I'm sure the switchover coincided with the move to the electronically controlled transmission.

 

[Rock40]

We are taking a slightly different approach with the motor, since I have two.

Getting one of them started and confirmed good was the first step. We still need to get it onto the work stand to replace all of the seals, gaskets, BEB's, painted, IP serviced, and so on before it can get into the truck. One step forward. This motor is a bit cleaner than my UK one, which is nice. I need to decide if I steal the turbo off of the UK motor, or go with the GTurbo which was purchased for this engine.

These motors are dead-simple to run, and truly one wire needed to energize the fuel cutoff. "ECM, we don't need no stinking ECM."

I'll tell you what, your FT is about 10x cleaner looking than mine when I started

 

[CycloSteve]

I'll tell you what, your FT is about 10x cleaner looking than mine when I started

No kidding. I think yours belonged to a Brit who either had a boat and used their 80 to launch it in Salt water, or they liked driving in the marshlands. What you have done to eradicate the iron termites is amazing.

The OZ motor has minimal corrosion, thus I assume it came out of a rig that was from the Outback. Sounds like a good story.