Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

[Rock40]

Lets see if this video link works...I ran this at idle for about 30 minutes today, I couldn't get it hot enough to crack the thermostat and push coolant all the way through the system though. I think it's running fairly well, there is some blow-by at the PCV hose. I'm wearing my best sweatshirt, the one that looks like moths dined on it for months...

 

[Workhorse]

Looking good Ross, very nice clean work by the way. Very nice!!!

 

[Rock40]

Thanks! I should have put the Toyota block heater in when the engine was out but I was chomping at the bit to get it in the truck. It'll obviously be more of a pain in the butt now. Thanks for the P/N and the advice on the cruise stuff, I'd love to see a thread where someone actually explains the whole process step-by-step. Here's a video of start up, it doesn't require much cranking...

 

[Rock40]

Some issues that cropped up today that I could use some advice on:
I did the 7 pin mod long ago and I added a Toyota CDL switch. I tried to get the truck to back up today and it seems like the CDL isn't functioning. Let me explain. I only have a rear driveshaft installed as the front shaft needs to be shortened. When I put the truck in any gear and let the clutch out, I can see the front output flange spinning/engaging like it should but no power is being put to the rear wheels.

I believe that the CDL needs to be locked for the truck to operate with only the rear driveshaft installed. Am I correct? My guess is I either have things wired wrong (and the wiring was more or less a no-brainer since the colors matched up) or the CDL is stuck/frozen. The latter wouldn't surprise me much since the UK stuff is pretty darn crusty. Any input here? I'd love to take this for a quick spin in the driveway.....

 

[Workhorse]

What happens when you put it into LOW transfer with the lever? This will negate the CDL switch. At least it should I believe.

 

[Rock40]

What happens when you put it into LOW transfer with the lever? This will negate the CDL switch. At least it should I believe.

NOTHING. One of the big square fuses (in the panel inside the truck is blown, my mistake) and I wonder if that might have something to do with it. It definitely seems like the clutch is engaging/working correctly, just no power back to the rear driveshaft.

 

[Rock40]

OK, I just fooled around with this a bit more and the CDL locked!!. My guess is the transfer case/CDL shifter was slightly gummed/frozen (precious UK parts) and things suddenly freed up. I was able to back this out of the shop (both in Hi/Lo range) out to the end of the driveway and back again. A small victory but pretty darn exciting for a truck I haven't driven in 2 years. It's nice to know that I wired it correctly

 

[CycloSteve]

From what I can glean from both the US and EU EWD both share the same connector and seven pin-outs for the CC Actuator, C4 Gray.

I checked with my FZJ throttle cable and it is more than long enough to reach the Actuator.

I have the EU Actuator (up at Valley Hybrids) and likely would try to work out using that in conjunction with the US CC ECU. It also has the cable from the Actuator to the IP throttle cam.

One item on the EU CC ECU which is different is the addition of a Clutch Switch, which replaces the stop-bolt on the clutch box/mounting bracket...not sure if/where I will include this in my setup, as it is a NO circuit, providing a 12v+ signal when the clutch pedal is depressed, referred to as "D" and Pin 2 on the EU module, and the US version has no analogue.

The interesting thing with the EU CC ECU is that it also has the connections to the 1FZ-FE ECM for the ECT, IDL, and OD. There are no notes about what they need signal-wise, or if they simply provide signals to the engine ECM and are ignored by the CC ECU in a manual trans setup.

 

[Tapage]

hanging from this info ..

After my manual tranny swap my factory part time 80 .. ( with H4 dash button ) do the intended job when I press the H4 button ( actuator move and engage the front DS same work as your actuator do for your CDL ) but in the factory condition ( with auto A442F ) I had the 4WD green light on Dash .. now I don't ..

Any ideas .. I did mess with wiring for a while, but the only thing I got was actuator working or not working but never the 4WD light back when frond DS was engaged ..

any ideas ?

 

[IanB]

What happens when you put it into LOW transfer with the lever? This will negate the CDL switch. At least it should I believe.

If he's done the pin 7 mod, shifting to low range will no longer engage the CDL. It's full manual mode and you'd use the CDL dash button in high or low range to engage the center diff lock.

 

[Rock40]

If he's done the pin 7 mod, shifting to low range will no longer engage the CDL. It's full manual mode and you'd use the CDL dash button in high or low range to engage the center diff lock.

It' all manual at this point My issue was the frozen shift forks/transfer case shift motor. It's freed up now and working correctly though. I drove the truck several miles today with little issue. It sucked up a bunch of coolant but I still don't think the thermostat has cracked open. The engine is, by no means, running hot or overheating. It's making heat on the main heater but blowing cold air on the rear heater, I know it's just still air-bound at this point.

The H151F shifted very nicely; I was able to get it up and down through 4th gear. I mixed some Lucas Oil Stabilizer in the 80-90 weight so that may have helped. No grinding gears or angry synchros though.

Question: Some relay (which sounds like it's inside the rear lift up door) is going bat**** crazy. It's just clicking away back there like it has nothing better to do. This truck has the Toyota factory security system on it and I'm wonder if it might have something to do with that?

The speedometer is also not working at this time and I'm wondering if the circuit is not being completed correctly since I left the 12V speedo wire disconnected when I wired the two harnesses together. Everything else is a go, the alternator is putting out 14.7V at idle too

 

[Rock40]

From what I can glean from both the US and EU EWD both share the same connector and seven pin-outs for the CC Actuator, C4 Gray.

I checked with my FZJ throttle cable and it is more than long enough to reach the Actuator.

I have the EU Actuator (up at Valley Hybrids) and likely would try to work out using that in conjunction with the US CC ECU. It also has the cable from the Actuator to the IP throttle cam.

One item on the EU CC ECU which is different is the addition of a Clutch Switch, which replaces the stop-bolt on the clutch box/mounting bracket...not sure if/where I will include this in my setup, as it is a NO circuit, providing a 12v+ signal when the clutch pedal is depressed, referred to as "D" and Pin 2 on the EU module, and the US version has no analogue.

The interesting thing with the EU CC ECU is that it also has the connections to the 1FZ-FE ECM for the ECT, IDL, and OD. There are no notes about what they need signal-wise, or if they simply provide signals to the engine ECM and are ignored by the CC ECU in a manual trans setup.

Steve, I currently have that LHD throttle I purchased hooked up directly to the IP. I had to bend the cable mount slightly and I re-located one of the cable supports. Overall, pretty easy; about 30 minutes of fooling around and the IP responds appropriately to the throttle and doesn't bind up. I can post pics if anyone is interested. My thought is piggybacking the CC motor cable onto this if I can fool the CC computer.

 

[IanB]

It' all manual at this point My issue was the frozen shift forks/transfer case shift motor. It's freed up now and working correctly though. I drove the truck several miles today with little issue. It sucked up a bunch of coolant but I still don't think the thermostat has cracked open. The engine is, by no means, running hot or overheating. It's making heat on the main heater but blowing cold air on the rear heater, I know it's just still air-bound at this point.

Have you got the HVAC controls on full hot, to aid the burping of air from the heater core? What i found worked well was to set the hand throttle (not sure if you have one of these?) at around 2400rpm and let the truck run in my driveway for 10 min or so. These things really don't heat up with no load, and the RPM's mean the waterpump is pushing water faster than at idle, which helps push the air out as well.

 

[Rock40]

Hmmm, I will try that. I know it's airbound but I also heard that the diesels run cold using the 1FZ radiator. As long as the darn thing isn't overheating, I know it will eventually burp the air out. I don't have a working tach yet either as my parts have still not arrived from the UK. I don't have a hand throttle, I can guess 2400rpms or so. As long as I don't redline it......

 

[IanB]

Hmmm, I will try that. I know it's airbound but I also heard that the diesels run cold using the 1FZ radiator. As long as the darn thing isn't overheating, I know it will eventually burp the air out. I don't have a working tach yet either as my parts have still not arrived from the UK. I don't have a hand throttle, I can guess 2400rpms or so. As long as I don't redline it......

Try just holding it at medium revs for a few minutes with the HVAC on full hot, and see if it doesn't sort you out.

 

[Rock40]

OK, I drove this probably 15 miles or so today, it's still running very COLD and I don't think the thermostat has opened yet. I frankly don't get it. I tried running it at 2000+ rpms to bleed off the air too, no go. At least it's not overheating. It's now fully licensed, registered and insured though

I need some advice from experienced people here: I think I'm having some sort of issue/failure with the CDL actuator. I did the 7 Pin mod and there is a Toyota CDL switch in the dash. The transfer controls are all manual at this point and I've been driving around with the CDL locked and just the rear driveshaft.

With the CDL locked, the "DIFF LOCK" light/indicator is illuminated on the dash and the ABS light is also illuminated. All of this is correct. CDL switched "off" and all those lights turn off.

Here's the issue: I decided I was brave enough to get this out on the highway at 55MPH+ speeds. It was great and I was cruising right along until the drivetrain made a loud "clunk" similar to a manual transmission popping out of gear while under load. I made sure I was still in 5th and kept going. Got another very loud "clunk" again combined with howling/chattering gears. While this was occurring, I could see the "DIFF LOCK" light getting dim and it sounded like the electrical actuator was trying to mesh gears at very high speed. Another big clunk and the "DIFF LOCK" light went out. The CDL then engaged again on it's own. I ended up limping the truck back home; not fun. It kept clunking and every "clunk" is associated with the "DIFF LOCK" light blinking out before illuminating again. This happened at more or less all speeds and all transmission gears. I'm guessing the CDL actuator is failing? Do they fail in the "unlocked" position? I read a whole bunch of CDL posts but I didn't see anything like this. Maybe because there aren't a whole lot of folks running around with just a rear driveshaft installed and the CDL locked. I don't know.

I could also use some vacuum hose routing advice on the 1HD-FT. I'm trying to simplify this as the UK spec stuff had WAY too many vacuum lines. I currently just have a single hose hooked between the port on the intake plenum and the boost compensator. I don't think this is correct though. The truck doesn't have AC currently so the AC Idle Up is not connected and I do not have vacuum ports on the power steering pressure line either. What I'm I missing? If I really goose it I get some weird chattering out of the IP and I'm guessing that's due to the boost compensator not kicking in. Overall, the truck runs great and seems to have decent power. I just can't stomp on it.

Sorry for all the questions (almost daily) but I have no reference on any of this stuff. For those that have chipped in their good advice in the past, I never would have gotten this far without you. Thank you, Ross

 

[Rock40]

I should mention that I do not have a Viscous Coupling transfer case. I do have a VC case on my shop floor right now from which I could rob parts though...

 

[Workhorse]

Sounds like the CDL (and related) might not being engaged fully. Wonder if something is gummed up for lack of use in its previous life? I hope nothing snapped or cracked with all of the noise you heard. Might have to open it up to verify?

Do you know if the VC case works and properly? Might be worth exchanging the two (if possible) to see if the no VC one is not happy/functioning properly so to speak. You probably already have the drive shafts done to the length of the non VC correct? Dang!

In regards to your vacuum lines, it is all for emissions related garbage and has no effect on the engine running properly. Vacuum stuff is more gasser related than diesel ever will or could be honestly. And when it comes to AC, these motors don't even notice whether the AC is on or not so you won't necessarily need to wire in/up any idle up feature unless you really want to. No joke. Gotta love the torque of a diesel, yea?

 

[Rock40]

Sounds like the CDL (and related) might not being engaged fully. Wonder if something is gummed up for lack of use in its previous life? I hope nothing snapped or cracked with all of the noise you heard. Might have to open it up to verify?

Do you know if the VC case works and properly? Might be worth exchanging the two (if possible) to see if the no VC one is not happy/functioning properly so to speak. You probably already have the drive shafts done to the length of the non VC correct? Dang!

In regards to your vacuum lines, it is all for emissions related garbage and has no effect on the engine running properly. Vacuum stuff is more gasser related than diesel ever will or could be honestly. And when it comes to AC, these motors don't even notice whether the AC is on or not so you won't necessarily need to wire in/up any idle up feature unless you really want to. No joke. Gotta love the torque of a diesel, yea?

Yes on several points. I haven't had custom drive shafts made up yet, I'm cruising around on a rear shaft (OEM) from the UK. The hope is I'd only have to have the front shaft shortened, if I go to the VC case, I'll need 2 custom shafts, more $

You may be right about the partial engagement of the actuator, I guess I'll have to pull it apart to tell for sure. I was just wondering if my diagnosis even sounded close.

Vacuum lines: There is a small round "thingy" just behind and below the boost compensator. I searched through a bunch of my old pics and it looks like this should be hooked up directly to vacuum from the vacuum pump. Something is seriously wrong with either the vacuum hose routing/boost compensator because the IP chirping/groaning under heavy load (and not much acceleration more or less) can't be right under heavy load.

 

[Rock40]

Just found this old pic, the port closest to the boost compensator looks like it was feeding a VSV...

The VSV is gone...so plug it??