Looks great Steve, I just ordered the same parts for mine. Also placed another large order from the UAE (diesel fan shroud, LHD throttle cable, etc) it just never ends.....
...Clutch Master, note the accessory wires now re-routed to the left. Had too many to do anything but drill a 7/8 hole and re-run the lines, such as the EGT, boost, driving lights, etc. Enough room between the clutch box and firewall to easily run the wires. Had been using the plug for the clutch master rod...
...Finally the pedals are done. The upper master nut was a true PITA. Had to pull most of the lower dash and use three 1/4" wobble extensions to get to it and thread the nut.
The idea is that running a parallel thread did not make much sense. Some of the best threads on Mud are those when folks share how they may approach the same project with a slightly different angle and learn from each other.
So far the work has been all mine on the rig, as it is still at my house. Trying to get as much of the work that I can get finished before the truck is at Valley Hybrids and Georg does the heavy-lifting. I wish my motor was as far along as Rock40's, and that I had his shop and welding/fabrication skills.
I agree. You've touched on/added information on things I wasn't aware of and that is going to assist the next guy who starts a similar swap.
The gauge pod install you completed looks great, super clean. I think you're crossmember solution is going to be pretty darn slick too, at least it gives others options.
In terms of fab, for a swap of this magnitude, there's actually very little. The little details though, those can get a bit overwhelming. And there are A LOT of details.
I only mentioned George because I'd be much less stressed knowing that a pro was going to iron out some of the stuff I haven't been able to figure out yet.
Ugh, spent 8+ hours today just doing wiring stuff and I'm looking for advice from some others who know better than me. I pulled out all the VSV's from the engine harness as I zero desire to run any of that stuff. That helped pare the size of the harness down some.
VSV bits removed...
and here's the trimmed down harness
I believe I have things hooked up correctly although here is where I'm looking for some advice. It looks like the diesel harness uses both the common (white/black) wire and a brown (uncommon) wire for grounding. The circuit almost doesn't make sense but I consulted an old disassembly photo which shows all the ground wires tired together and grounded to the engine block. Am I way out of line here??
Need some advice here:
What wire on the IH1 connector is the tach wire?? I know the tach from the gasser won't work but I have a diesel tach coming so I need to figure it out.
Does the red/blue wire from (originally to the ECU) need to be hooked up anywhere?? I'm guessing not
My notes on the wiring say the solid yellow wire highlighted in the pic is for the speedo but it looks like the speedo has 2 wires?? 1 wire is currently hooked up but the other is not as I can't figure out what wire on the diesel harness needs to be hooked up there.
I did test the wiring and the engine cranks appropriately (a win)
Tach on the 1fz goes to the ECU. PIN E7D (10) behind the glovebox feeds tach signal from thr ecu to cluster (never went through IH1).
Speed sensor has 3 wires, 12v from gauge fuse, gnd and signal wire to cluster. Your solid yellow wire is likely your 12v to sensor IH1 (6) and signal wire to cluster IH1(1) R-O. 3rd wire is likely grounded on the block in the harness.
On my diesel harness the yellow wire also meters out to my reverse switch and 4L switch, so there is a junction somewhere in the harness.
Hmm you have me second guessing. I will check tomorrow, but it doesnt really matter either way. At the end of the day, your tach signal from the pump will end up spliced to E7D (10)
Yeah, I think the connector may just be E7 but the "D" designates that it's dark grey. I think Tweeek is a bit more electrically inclined than me, it took me a bit to sort it out.
OK, most of the wiring is now in and somewhat orderly after another several hours of fooling around with it. I'm guessing thing will work or the whole mess will self destruct, we'll see.
Tweeek- you were right about the yellow wire I posted about yesterday. It's 12volt ignition hot power from the speedo gauge. Also, according to the way things pinned out, the 12volt ignition hot lead for the reverse lights, speedo power and transfer low are all spliced/tied together within the factory harness. Because of this, I powered all three circuits using the ignition hot lead which used to feed the injectors on the gasser engine (IH1 connector pin #14). Because I already had this 12volt wire in place (and because it was heavier guage) I used that and tucked the yellow wire away.
I also powered the IP fuel cut-off using the 12volt ignition hot lead which used to feed the ignition coil on the gasser engine. I re-used a Toyota 24volt starter lead (love making something out of nothing) so I can disconnect the whole works if necessary. Once soldered together, I ran the wire up to one of the 6 pin weatherpack connectors.
24volt starter lead with factory Toyota connector
For the USA guys, the alternator on the diesel is on the opposite side compared to the gasser engine. Because of that, you'll need to extend the factory alternator leads over to the passenger (left side) of the truck. It's a total of 5 wires, the alternator plug has 3 wires (roughly 16 gauge) and the main alternator lead which has a two white wires, 6 and 8 gauge. It needs to grow about 5' total and I designed mine to run around the top of the radiator with the factory body harness. The main splice is made at the bottom of the battery box shown here:
And the alternator leads terminate here after routing around the radiator: No brainer on this end
Here is the wiring as it sits now. The loose wires which have not been soldered to anything are from the different engine plugs which haven't been hooked up yet. They are labeled so I can keep track of them though. Everything else is more or less the way it's going to be at this point.
Surprise, surprise, the diesel fan shroud doesn't fit the gasser radiator....sheesh. If you're like me, you might be pretty tired of sending money to the Middle East via Paypal. I modified the diesel fan shroud to fit the gasser radiator like this:
Used a pneumatic sanding disc to sand the tab down just a bit so that the sides of the shroud are centered up on the sides of the radiator vertical mounts
Once the shroud was centered, I clamped both sides down and marked it for 4 holes. I used 1/4"-20 stainless studs which I tapped into the vertical radiator mount and secured in place with high strength Loctite. This is just to secure a fan shroud, it doesn't have to be totally overkill. I love these Lenox step bits
Drilled, tapped and secured with Loctite. I drilled the shroud itself a bit oversize to help with fitting it
You get the idea, there is just enough room here to mount the washer, lockwasher and nut. All this will get bolted together once the radiator is in the truck. The upper mounts will need a little more work and some welding to complete some brackets. I would rather do this sort of thing any day over electrical wiring nonsense.
Did a little work on the console and gauge pod...should have those sorted tomorrow.
