First it was a bit rough and definitely only running on five cylinders.
Much more smooth after three run cycles.
Much more smooth after three run cycles.
Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
- Thread starter Rock40
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- Thread starter
- #383
1HD-FT is RUNNING!!! and then it wouldn't turn off.......key all the way off, OH s***. No water was in it and I quickly cracked all the injector lines which killed it. I'm guessing the fuel cut-off is stuck open??? I was in about full blown panic mode trying to get it turned off before it overheated. Not fun.
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- Thread starter
- #384
Turns out someone was dicking with the IP...the fuel cut-off was missing the plunger and the little filter screen was all bent and abused to hell. I robbed a plunger from a spare IP, bent the filter screen back into place and it's working great now. SO excited this is finally going 
- Thread starter
- #386
I believe that however this was from a manual trans truck so it wouldn't be talking to the trans at all.
I thought they were only fitted to the auto? it would be easier to tune the IP later with it removed, if your using a manual trans.
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- #388
Hmmm, OK. I also have a spare IP which doesn't have one installed. The engine runs surprisingly smooth at this point with no tuning so we'll see how the current IP does
Runaway diesel is indeed scary, glad you were able to shut it down, and have it running.
My UK spec motor with manual trans and EGR has the TPS, as does the OZ which was an auto trans non-EGR. I can't see any reason to keep the TPS with an EGR delete and manual trans. One FSM reference I have has a reference which shows that the TPS is on all motors except the OZ market manual trans.
Ross, what are you planning on doing for the glow screen? I have a 12v glow relay and thinking of going manual. I don't have the pre-heat timer.
My UK spec motor with manual trans and EGR has the TPS, as does the OZ which was an auto trans non-EGR. I can't see any reason to keep the TPS with an EGR delete and manual trans. One FSM reference I have has a reference which shows that the TPS is on all motors except the OZ market manual trans.
Ross, what are you planning on doing for the glow screen? I have a 12v glow relay and thinking of going manual. I don't have the pre-heat timer.
catching up on this build... nice work. I mean... really... nice...work.
The wiring looks like a PITA. I recently saw the 1HDFT that Proffitts built years back (friend bought it), and they did similar work... right down to the 24-Volt starter (if I could insert an eye-roll, I would).
I know I sound like a hack when I say this but... man I would have just wired this like we wired the 4BT swaps. Unplug the computer, splice into the temp, oil, speedo, and use a converter box for the tacho. I think we spent... two hours wiring that swap. But I like simple. Yours is uber clean.
question: does that throttle cable fit? Does it reach all the way to the cruise control?
Mine is getting old, brittle, and sticky... but the part numbers I gave Stedman were no taco bueno.
Also... this is probably paranoia... but, does your filter have provision for water sensor? I rebuilt my 1HDFT injectors... and they started smoking a month later. Local denso shop says I must have had some water in my fuel (Baja).
The wiring looks like a PITA. I recently saw the 1HDFT that Proffitts built years back (friend bought it), and they did similar work... right down to the 24-Volt starter (if I could insert an eye-roll, I would).
I know I sound like a hack when I say this but... man I would have just wired this like we wired the 4BT swaps. Unplug the computer, splice into the temp, oil, speedo, and use a converter box for the tacho. I think we spent... two hours wiring that swap. But I like simple. Yours is uber clean.
question: does that throttle cable fit? Does it reach all the way to the cruise control?
Mine is getting old, brittle, and sticky... but the part numbers I gave Stedman were no taco bueno.
Also... this is probably paranoia... but, does your filter have provision for water sensor? I rebuilt my 1HDFT injectors... and they started smoking a month later. Local denso shop says I must have had some water in my fuel (Baja).
Oh... and on the glow screen. My truck normally starts fine when it's snowy or at altitude... but the combination... not so good. Was in Flagstaff (7000') when it was 20f, and even with a minute long glow screen... truck took several tries to start... basically 1 cylinder at a time. Made me wish I had a 1HDT with glow plugs... or at least a block heater (anybody have a 1HDFT block heater part number?).
- Thread starter
- #392
Glow screen, my buddy (the one with the electrical engineering degree who keeps lending a hand) mentioned creating a custom circuit for it utilizing the OEM sensor (green plug into aluminum cooler on left side of engine block) to regulate turning on the glow screen based on engine temp, similar to factory wiring I believe. I don't have any of the OEM relays or circuits either with the exception of the 6 gauge (or close) wire that fed the glow screen itself.
Gifu- the throttle cable was a shot in the dark as I discovered what you did-they are very hard to find. And....it's about 3/4" short going to the IP. Overall, it fits better as it is shorter and I run it "cleaner" around the engine. I need to do some research but I believe Lokar has parts which will allow me to cut and extend the very end of the cable to get it to work right.
What do you mean by "does it reach all the way to the cruise control?" I'm confused by that. I figured the throttle went straight to the IP and the cruise is going to piggy back off of that. I'm wrong there?
The Racor filter does have the ability to add a water sensor in the bowl, I'd just have to purchase one. I chose the Racor because they have so many options. Fuel heaters are also available. For now, I have very good look at the bowl with a short line extending down into the wheel well. It's just a matter of opening a small port to drain off an water/sediment. You are correct though, I'll have to keep an eye on it.
I will say that the fuel system bled out (air wise) really well yesterday. The pump caught suction very quickly and it was just a matter of cracking the vent on the top of the Racor housing and seconds later, fuel was coming into the bowl. I alternately cranked the engine for a few seconds, then pumped the manual primer a bunch. Took about 3 rounds of that and it fired right up.
Gifu- the throttle cable was a shot in the dark as I discovered what you did-they are very hard to find. And....it's about 3/4" short going to the IP. Overall, it fits better as it is shorter and I run it "cleaner" around the engine. I need to do some research but I believe Lokar has parts which will allow me to cut and extend the very end of the cable to get it to work right.
What do you mean by "does it reach all the way to the cruise control?" I'm confused by that. I figured the throttle went straight to the IP and the cruise is going to piggy back off of that. I'm wrong there?
The Racor filter does have the ability to add a water sensor in the bowl, I'd just have to purchase one. I chose the Racor because they have so many options. Fuel heaters are also available. For now, I have very good look at the bowl with a short line extending down into the wheel well. It's just a matter of opening a small port to drain off an water/sediment. You are correct though, I'll have to keep an eye on it.
I will say that the fuel system bled out (air wise) really well yesterday. The pump caught suction very quickly and it was just a matter of cracking the vent on the top of the Racor housing and seconds later, fuel was coming into the bowl. I alternately cranked the engine for a few seconds, then pumped the manual primer a bunch. Took about 3 rounds of that and it fired right up.
I think the 3FE cruise control works that way. 1FZ had cable from pedal to motor and an independant cable from cruise to motor.
Yes correct.
And I thought the 1HdFT cruise did. I assumed my cruise motor is from a HDJ80. Maybe it's from a 3FE. Huh.
Oh but you're using then stock FZJ80 cruise control. Ohhhhh.
Hmmmm. That will be interesting to see it works.
And I thought the 1HdFT cruise did. I assumed my cruise motor is from a HDJ80. Maybe it's from a 3FE. Huh.
Oh but you're using then stock FZJ80 cruise control. Ohhhhh.
Hmmmm. That will be interesting to see it works.
My understanding is that the 3FE cruise actuator plugs directly into the later model harness and functions correctly. Some electrical trickery necessary to fool the cruise ecu which is looking for am auto trans.
- Thread starter
- #397
Yep, I have the 1FZ cruise. The hope (like Tweeek said) is that I can trick it with the correct electrical signals to get it work. I believe the cruise computer just needs to know that the brake is "off" transmission in "D". If I can't get the 1FZ to work, I'll try to source a 3FE cruise actuator. My guess is someone has already figured out the 1FZ circuit though.
Brian, I installed a Toyota Factory block heater, freeze plug style. See attached.
The photo shows all necessary ordering information off of the Toyota box, but here are all of the part numbers on the Factory box: "00113-00213-02134 and C0140-02134US". I believe I bought it locally (US) but worst case ENS in Saskatoon?
The CC I used was from an 91-92 FJ80. I ditched the 1FZ-FE CC and used the LHD throttle cable (Brian, I gave you the part number for this recently, which sounds NLA?). I have been told by same "swap wizard" that this is the way the Factory diesel 80s came from said Factory. I would shoot a photo of it but it is dark outside currently. The assembly bolts right up to existing holes with Factory captive nuts on the right (US PS) fender well behind (towards the back of the truck) the air filter housing. There is a throttle cable (NLA?) coming from the pedal to the CC unit and another that goes from the CC unit to the IP (Factory 1FZ-FE IRRC, possibly FJ80?). I suppose that if the Factory LHD throttle cables are NLA, this is a moot point much to our chagrin...
On another note, I used the FJ80 (91-92) Factory windshield washer bottle assembly for my truck vs. the FZJ80 one. It is waaaay more capacity than the original one and mounts where much of the FZ charcoal canister/EGR crap on the LH (US DS) side of things are that you remove anyway. Again, using Factory captive nuts with Factory bracket it mounts to.
Gents, I really hope some of this information helps. It sounds like Mr. T is starting to discontinue many things for our trucks (with swaps and related) which is terrible news. No me gusta!!!
The photo shows all necessary ordering information off of the Toyota box, but here are all of the part numbers on the Factory box: "00113-00213-02134 and C0140-02134US". I believe I bought it locally (US) but worst case ENS in Saskatoon?
The CC I used was from an 91-92 FJ80. I ditched the 1FZ-FE CC and used the LHD throttle cable (Brian, I gave you the part number for this recently, which sounds NLA?). I have been told by same "swap wizard" that this is the way the Factory diesel 80s came from said Factory. I would shoot a photo of it but it is dark outside currently. The assembly bolts right up to existing holes with Factory captive nuts on the right (US PS) fender well behind (towards the back of the truck) the air filter housing. There is a throttle cable (NLA?) coming from the pedal to the CC unit and another that goes from the CC unit to the IP (Factory 1FZ-FE IRRC, possibly FJ80?). I suppose that if the Factory LHD throttle cables are NLA, this is a moot point much to our chagrin...
On another note, I used the FJ80 (91-92) Factory windshield washer bottle assembly for my truck vs. the FZJ80 one. It is waaaay more capacity than the original one and mounts where much of the FZ charcoal canister/EGR crap on the LH (US DS) side of things are that you remove anyway. Again, using Factory captive nuts with Factory bracket it mounts to.
Gents, I really hope some of this information helps. It sounds like Mr. T is starting to discontinue many things for our trucks (with swaps and related) which is terrible news. No me gusta!!!
And from the fella that did the 1HZ/5 speed swap into his LX450, the truck needs to have the circuit complete for the "D" light signal (so the truck knows/thinks it's in 'D'), and that is how the CC will work. I don't have his thread handy but 'search function' will help that.
Again, I hope this helps gentlemen...
Ross-
Again, I hope this helps gentlemen...
Ross-