Engine replacement thread and seeking advice (1 Viewer)

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"oil pump o ring on front and the same o ring on the rear of the motor"

I ordered two of these seals to do the rear one as well but I am not seeing another seal anywhere besides the rear main seal which is a larger seal. I changed the front one behind the water pump/crank shaft but can you let me know which rear one you are referring to?
That o-ring is the o-ring above the rear main seal that seals the main oil gallery.
It's held in by the rear main seal retainer plate.
I managed to miss it when ordering all my o-ring/gaskets/etc, so I had the privilege of buying that single small o-ring for $8 at my local dealership.
 
That o-ring is the o-ring above the rear main seal that seals the main oil gallery.
It's held in by the rear main seal retainer plate.
I managed to miss it when ordering all my o-ring/gaskets/etc, so I had the privilege of buying that single small o-ring for $8 at my local dealership.
Okay I see so I need to remove the oil retainer and then reseal with fipg at the bottom it looked like?
 
Okay I see so I need to remove the oil retainer and then reseal with fipg at the bottom it looked like?
Yessir - I seem to remember that plate has FIPG all around the perimeter, right?
 
Ok so I love gotten to a weird part of the wiring harness. Differing connectors for the largest transmission connection. Here is the old vs the new and where it connects. There are the same amount of wires but I'm not exactly sure which wire goes to what. This is a 99 LC engine to a 2000 LC. Transmissions are the same so I'm confused about the different harness. There's a chance this harness came off a different vehicle even thought the engine is the same so I may have to reuse the full old harness.
 
Ok so I love gotten to a weird part of the wiring harness. Differing connectors for the largest transmission connection. Here is the old vs the new and where it connects. There are the same amount of wires but I'm not exactly sure which wire goes to what. This is a 99 LC engine to a 2000 LC. Transmissions are the same so I'm confused about the different harness. There's a chance this harness came off a different vehicle even thought the engine is the same so I may have to reuse the full old harness.

Your pictures didn’t attach. That said, I would just reuse your old harness.
 
New harness connector completely jacked up somehow....
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Old harness connector
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Where it attaches to the transmission
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I think my only option without getting too into the weeds is to reuse my old harness. A little sad because I messed up a lot of the injector connectors not caring when removing them so I have a lot of repinning in my future....

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New harness connector completely jacked up somehow....
View attachment 3693484Old harness connectorView attachment 3693485View attachment 3693485
Where it attaches to the transmission
View attachment 3693486I think my only option without getting too into the weeds is to reuse my old harness. A little sad because I messed up a lot of the injector connectors not caring when removing them so I have a lot of repinning in my future....

View attachment 3693487
Also ft my daughter helping clean some electrical connections ;)
 
New harness connector completely jacked up somehow....
View attachment 3693484Old harness connectorView attachment 3693485View attachment 3693485
Where it attaches to the transmission
View attachment 3693486I think my only option without getting too into the weeds is to reuse my old harness. A little sad because I messed up a lot of the injector connectors not caring when removing them so I have a lot of repinning in my future....

View attachment 3693487
I *think* that's the neutral safety switch (though, could be totally off there). Odd that it's different for those years!
 
I *think* that's the neutral safety switch (though, could be totally off there). Odd that it's different for those years!
I suspect the harness came off a tundra or sequoia 2UZ seller had mentioned they cut the original one and had to fix their mistake and get another one so that's what I'm going with. Swapped over the harness phewww now need to go back through it more thoroughly another day and repin any broken connectors. Thankfully I have a decent stack of unbroken spare connectors.
 
been a busy week and just got back from TX but I was able to get some good time on the engine last week. Transferred over the old harness and replaced all broken connectors. Cleaned all connectors along the way and made sure all was routed properly. Valve cover gaskets, spark plug oil seals, new tensioner pulley, header heat shields, new oil pump hoses, all spark plugs and coils final install. I cleaned up the throttle body with a new gasket and cleaned all injectors. New rubber all around injectors and cleaned the fuel rails.
After adding some oil and cranking several times over I scoped the previously questionable cylinders and they looked pretty great so I'm not worried anymore.

Waiting on a starter from Alabama to arrive because the previous one was damaged in shipping.

Up next is PCV valve, starter, intake manifold, steering rack bushings and another clean and then dropping the engine back in!!

Also may have gotten MINORLY distracted picking up this project 62 a couple hours away....sitting until this project is done.

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the "new" engine looks HELLA clean on the inside, score! you should get a few hundred thousand more miles out of it
What's wild is the 360k engine looked the same inside if not cleaner! I was so surprised
 
I'm going to try and get engine put back in the weekend. Here is what I will keep in mind, for those who have done this please add any tips.
1. Check torque converter is properly seated, it should spin freely and be close to the measurement in the FSM
2. Don't connect passenger O2 sensor yet, may leave both unplugged
3. Angle the transmission up by loosening crossmember attachment point
4. Use load leveler to angle the engine down and towards the transmission as much as possible to line up the dowel pins.
5. Slow and steady wins the race
 
i thought i was going to fight with the engine/transmission mating, but mine when smoothly. i had a transmission jack under tha transmission, and had it angled upwards. i slowly dropped the engine bit by bit, and lined up the dowel pins, and the two mated up surprisingly easy.

Just make sure your dowl pins are 100% clean, scrub them down with steel wool and wd-4o so they are smooth and slide right in
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Yeah, @excessive pretty much nailed it! I had a helper, but it went way easier than I thought it would. I didn't loosen the crossmember, just had a jack with a block of wood under the transmission to angle it up. Reconnecting the trans harness was actually easier than I thought it'd be too!
 
Yeah, @excessive pretty much nailed it! I had a helper, but it went way easier than I thought it would. I didn't loosen the crossmember, just had a jack with a block of wood under the transmission to angle it up. Reconnecting the trans harness was actually easier than I thought it'd be too!
@excessive love it! Thank you both for the confidence. I cant wait to start it up!
 
Engine is in!! Still gonna be a little bit before I get it all buttoned up of course but really glad this part is done. Huge thanks again to @Land Shark & @Congo Cruiser from the club for the help and also my neighbor who I just met! Things went well.

Had some trouble with the transmission cooler hose and scratching our heads how it's supposed to sit but I'll deal with it more when I get to connecting everything. Had a bit scare when a bunch (Steady stream) of oil started coming out the exhaust headers for a sec and sat around thinking for over 10 minutes before realizing this was from me putting oil into the spark plug tubes and manually cranking allowing oil to pass the valves and sit in the exhaust chambers!!

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