You check the EGR by pulling a vacuum on the blue line, with a hand vacuum pump or use your lips if necessary. If it opens, it will idle rougn and probably die. When you release the vacuum it should go back to idling smoothly.
Emissions failure! (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter sk8salomon
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- #62
EGR is working properly thanks to my lungs & some spare hose. I adjusted the idle mixture screw 1/2 turn in both directions but still no help with the slight "bump" @ idle. Even tried the water down the carb trick "see tread" but no improvement. What to do next? Compression test? Timing check? How about the dizzy? What if there is play side to side causing irregular spark? I've replaced plugs, wired, diz-cap & rotor button but no improvement.
Check for manifold vacuum leak. What is the manifold vacuum at idle? Is it steady or does it flicker? Check compression. If you have a leaky exhaust valve you are going to have trouble passing HC no matter what. Did you try bumping up the engine idle RPM to the max allowed
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Can you tell us what the current tailpipe numbers are, and what the limits are?
I NEVER let the mental midgets at the NJ DMV touch my truck. For $80.00, my 60 was inspected in less than 10 min, and good for two years.
Zack
If you are having trouble passing your local smog test and its a "closed hood test" like here in Wa. state and you dont mind cheating the system.
#1) remove the end of the hose that presently goes into your air rail. Put it aside (protect it fron the manifold).
#2) remove the exhaust (blowing) hose leaving the smog/air pump at the air/filter box end.
#3) put #2 where you disconnected #1.....you are now blowing air down your tail pipe severly deluting your exhaust emmissions
I went from "fail" to almost blowing 0s across the board. ///// I did get a raised eyebrow from the tester......same guy as the first test
Good luck
So does t his work? What about the rubbing alcohol in the tank? What do these things do?
Zack
- Thread starter
- #67
2nd test passed CO so that's no issue now.
Limit on HC is 220 and 2nd test showed 278.
- Thread starter
- #68
Is this what the book calls the "Outer Vent Control Valve"? If so, it looks from my picture that it is missing. Where does this lead to?
I've also dumped a bottle of this into a full tank of gas. Instructions say to run the tank near empty, then fill completely and go directly to emissions test facility. Company says if you fail, they will refund your money. We will see! *DO NOT USE FOR DIESEL ENGINES!!!*
I've also dumped a bottle of this into a full tank of gas. Instructions say to run the tank near empty, then fill completely and go directly to emissions test facility. Company says if you fail, they will refund your money. We will see! *DO NOT USE FOR DIESEL ENGINES!!!*
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The large fitting on the air cleaner should have a 90* rubber elbow hose that goes to the open fitting on top of the valve cover.
How much rainwater has fallen into the valve cover?
How much rainwater has fallen into the valve cover?
- Thread starter
- #70
thanks Jim. at first, i thought the open port on the valve cover was for the PCV valve like my Ford. i'll throw a hose and some clamps to it. would it be a good idea to take the valve cover off and inspect?
edit: just thought i'd add the part number & pic if anybody is interested.
edit: just thought i'd add the part number & pic if anybody is interested.
Last edited:
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Might be a good idea to pull the VC and adjust valves. I wouldn't pull it off just to see the sights.
rover67
SILVER Star
don't forget that retarding the crap out of the timing helps too.
and i bought a cat from www.summitracing for like 40 bucks that worked great.
my truck has none of the emissions stuff on it anymore, and a weber carb on it and i got it to pass emissions ok... with 155 main jets in it (after i tuned it on the road i dropped the mains to 130's, so it was waaay rich cruising before) Here in Tn, just lean the idle waay down to where it is almost missing (misses are bad, way bad) and retard the timing. check all your hoses too. oh, yeah, adjust those valves.
and i bought a cat from www.summitracing for like 40 bucks that worked great.
my truck has none of the emissions stuff on it anymore, and a weber carb on it and i got it to pass emissions ok... with 155 main jets in it (after i tuned it on the road i dropped the mains to 130's, so it was waaay rich cruising before) Here in Tn, just lean the idle waay down to where it is almost missing (misses are bad, way bad) and retard the timing. check all your hoses too. oh, yeah, adjust those valves.
smog
At least TN smog is only 10 bucks - 29 bucks here in AZ!
OK, don't know if this applies to the 60, and if it'll work in TN, but I have a 80 Toy PU with the 20R, and the thing would not pass, even with the new cat. So, my mechanic friend helped me 'adjust' it for smogging. What we did was lean the crap out of it, and run up the idle to about 1500-1800 RPM. Basicaly, bypassing the idle circuit.
The test results showed I was damn near running on air - but it passed! And, the inspectors didn't care about the high idle at all, along as the numbers were within range.
Stupid smogging
At least TN smog is only 10 bucks - 29 bucks here in AZ!
OK, don't know if this applies to the 60, and if it'll work in TN, but I have a 80 Toy PU with the 20R, and the thing would not pass, even with the new cat. So, my mechanic friend helped me 'adjust' it for smogging. What we did was lean the crap out of it, and run up the idle to about 1500-1800 RPM. Basicaly, bypassing the idle circuit.
The test results showed I was damn near running on air - but it passed! And, the inspectors didn't care about the high idle at all, along as the numbers were within range.
Stupid smogging
- Thread starter
- #74
Well, not sure if it was the new plugs, replaced vacuum lines or the "Guaranteed to Pass" fuel additive but 3rd times a charm! Passed HC with 178 (limit 220). Thanks for all the help guys.
- Thread starter
- #75
Found a few problems this weekend that may have attributed to the failed test. #1, small hose coming off air pump was so old & cracked. It wasn't even connected to the pump port completely. #2, BVSV ports looked ok, but when i looked closely the plastic hose ports were broken off.
Not sure if the pump hose caused anything but it seems my idle is lower RPM now (650 or so). Could there have been a lack of vacuum due to the bad hose?
Not sure if the pump hose caused anything but it seems my idle is lower RPM now (650 or so). Could there have been a lack of vacuum due to the bad hose?
- Thread starter
- #76
Bi-metal Vacuum Switching Valve (BVSV). Plastic ports are broken off. Looked ok at 1st, but then found the problem.
- Thread starter
- #77
Purchased the (violet) upper BVSV from Cruiser Dan for $30. Wasn't as easy to install as I expected. Drain 1/2 of coolant, loosen the v-belt & use 19mm combo wrench.
I can tell a difference in the running of my 60. When slowly let off gas pedal, i hear a faint whistling sound. What is this coming from? Is there some sort of valve that is now working?
I can tell a difference in the running of my 60. When slowly let off gas pedal, i hear a faint whistling sound. What is this coming from? Is there some sort of valve that is now working?
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Whistling is usually a manifold gasket leak, IME.
- Thread starter
- #79
wow, that sucks! thanks tho Jim! maybe that's been the problem all along?
I thought it was the turbo...
