Emissions failure! (3 Viewers)

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sk8salomon

sk8salomon

Joined
Apr 21, 2006
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147
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Location
Chattanooga, TN
Just got my freshly rebuilt carb back from JimC. Slapped that biotch on last night and hooked everything up. After a few pumps of the pedal, my 60 started right up. Idles smooth, accelerates much better, and basically feels like I'm driving a new truck. So...took my truck to the TN vehicle sniffer inspector. Failed Hydrocarbons & Carbon Dioxide readings. CO was close (2.07 vs. 1.20) but HC was way off the chart! The back of this report says vacuum lines are a common problem with high HC readings. My exhaust in general is really bad and probably needs new muffler & cat. Any suggestions?

I may have hooked some vaccum lines up wrong. Please review the picture with lines circled in black. Is there a specific way to hook these up or do they basically need vaccum going to them? I don't have a vaccum diagram either so one for my 60 would help.
IMG_0601.jpg
IMG_0602.jpg
 
same thing happened to me. I dont know about Tenn. but NJ's inspectors HATE to even see older trucks. Its a given that you fail if your driving an old vehicle.
Mine had the same problem, and my exhaust was also bad, including a cat with holes.
replaced the cat with an aftermarket, and OEM cat-back, and passed right away.
 
You have to dial the carb in.
A new carb or a rebuilt is just set to allow startup. Once started then you dial it in. No such thing as out of the box one size fits all.
 
ranger said:
You have to dial the carb in.
A new carb or a rebuilt is just set to allow startup. Once started then you dial it in. No such thing as out of the box one size fits all.
Click to expand...

According to JimC, my carb was put on an engine and tested. I think the invoice even said "adjusted for performance". So you're saying I still need to dial in?
 
Jim's carbs should be plug and play, he is a rarity.

sk8salomon, I am not helping on this one, not until you get that manual, it is not optional.
Those vacuum ports are specific, with specific characteristics. They need to be hooked up right.
Call CruiserDan and get, at the very least, the emissions manual, I think it is like $16. Your new JimC carb deserves it.
Oh, and replace the cat and exhaust. :cheers:
 
kevinmrowland said:
Jim's carbs should be plug and play, he is a rarity.

sk8salomon, I am not helping on this one, not until you get that manual, it is not optional.
Those vacuum ports are specific, with specific characteristics. They need to be hooked up right.
Call CruiserDan and get, at the very least, the emissions manual, I think it is like $16. Your new JimC carb deserves it.
Oh, and replace the cat and exhaust. :cheers:
Click to expand...

LOL! thanks again! i'm calling Cdan to get my friggen manual!:cheers:
 
It would helpo to know if it is failing at idle or at running speed, as the causes and solutions are different.

High CO indicates that the carb is running rich. If it is rich at idle, the cure is turning the idle mix in. If it is rich at running speed, it is more complicated. Smaller main jets may help but is may also be a problem with the electronics regulating the carb.

High HC generally comes from misfiring which releases unburned fuel. The mis can come from an ignition issue, or a vacuum leak at idle. It can also be due to burned valves / low compression.

A bad catalyst and AI system can contribute to this but it is generally not the cause of HC numbers that are this high.
 
I just went through this. The first place I would look, is to see if the air injection is working. I had a cracked hose that decreased the airflow and my HC readings were very high. I also replaced the cat with Toyota OEM (roughly $500 from Cruiserdan).

I would definitely look at AI first, then look at the cat/exhaust.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
I just went through this. The first place I would look, is to see if the air injection is working. I had a cracked hose that decreased the airflow and my HC readings were very high. I also replaced the cat with Toyota OEM (roughly $500 from Cruiserdan).

I would definitely look at AI first, then look at the cat/exhaust.
Click to expand...

yes, air intake hose has some cracks, small but yes cracked! not sure that my wallet likes a $500 OEM cat! any other suggestions?
 
sk8salomon said:
yes, air intake hose has some cracks, small but yes cracked! not sure that my wallet likes a $500 OEM cat! any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

Not the air intake hose-the air injection hoses off the ABV. Mine was cracked circumfrentially, but very difficult to see. They get hard and brittle and they crack. Also make sure that air is being blown into the air injection.

My wallet did not enjoy the OEM cat either, but with new AI main hoses, new cat and rebuilt carb, my numbers were extremely low-literally like new. If you search under my user name, I posted the before and after smog numbers.
 
There are also some other ways around it possibly. Try a fresh oil change, running premium fuel for a tank and sticking in some 99% rubbing alcohol to about a quarter tank. I think that this is the mixture. I've got friends in the socialistic republic of kalifornia that do this to get their cars to pass. Maybe try a search and you'll find the right recipe for passing. It's a lot cheaper than a new cat.
 
kevinmrowland said:
Jim's carbs should be plug and play, he is a rarity.

sk8salomon, I am not helping on this one, not until you get that manual, it is not optional.
Those vacuum ports are specific, with specific characteristics. They need to be hooked up right.
Call CruiserDan and get, at the very least, the emissions manual, I think it is like $16. Your new JimC carb deserves it.
Oh, and replace the cat and exhaust. :cheers:
Click to expand...

kevinmrowland- Called Cruiser Dan and ordered Body/Chassis, Engine & Emissions manual ($116 for everything) The Engine & Emissions manual is on a 4-6 weeks backorder! Do you know where I can get a vacuum schematic to get me by?
 
Not sure if this problem is related but my idle RPM started running high last night. I found a problem with the throttle bracket that bolts to the carb on the drivers side. The little ball rod that goes into the socket joint is slipping out (in red). The joint housing is broken and the little cotter pin doesn't hold the rod in place. When I let off the gas, the engine revs to 2000 or so. When I kick the throttle down, the linkage comes off and I get no throttle at all. Does anybody have the part number for this bracket?

Also, the area circled in yellow...should this bracket have a slight bend to it?
DSC00066.JPG
 
close your idle mixture all but a half of a turn
 
kevinmrowland said:
Jim's carbs should be plug and play, he is a rarity.

sk8salomon, I am not helping on this one, not until you get that manual, it is not optional.
Those vacuum ports are specific, with specific characteristics. They need to be hooked up right.
Call CruiserDan and get, at the very least, the emissions manual, I think it is like $16. Your new JimC carb deserves it.
Oh, and replace the cat and exhaust. :cheers:
Click to expand...


Still needs to be dialed in even if it was adjusted via another runner. It may be close, but not close enough to pass smog. Each engine is different, different stages of wear, and different variables in climate and elevation.
 
safety wire it on for now
 
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