Emissions failure! (1 Viewer)

[sk8salomon]

Hello,
I have been reading this post and I still have not found out if the vehicle is tested at IDLE or on a DYNO. Let me know as I have been a NYS Inspector for over 10 years now and can get you to pass but that is what I need to know first.
-Graham

no dyno. just sniffer test in the tailpipe. they also have a long stick with a mirror which they shove under your truck and study the cat with. then they check pressure of your gas cap, then check sniffer at idle and 1/4 throttle. then they look at you and laugh!

 

[sk8salomon]

A miss at idle would cause it to fail a HC test at idle. It could be ignition, but electric problems tend to be worse at higher speeds. Vacuum leaks below the throttle plate (egr stuck open?) can also make it miss at idle.

If you have an exhaust valve that is leaking (burned or too tight) it will also fail HC.

pin_head- probably wouldn't hurt to put a new EGR in? how would i know if its stuck open?

 

[eastendmedic]

Emmisions manual says to test the EGR apply vacuum to the egr port (on the top of the EGR) while the truck is idling at temp and it should run crappy or die out.....when you release the vac...it should correct itself....mine does this....but if I leave the EGR open the acceleration is "chuggy"....as soon as I plug the lines the thing runs like a "r8ped ape".....hope that helps.

 

[Pin_Head]

It is easy to test whether it opens as described above: pull a vacuum on the actuator and it will stumble. It is harder to be sure it closes all the way. You can remove it and blow through it to check for a seal. If the actuator is good, you can clean it by soaking the valve body (not the actuator) in carb dip and washing out the carbon.

A compression check would be good information to have.

Don't they tell you if it failing at idle or 1/4 throttle? They do in the People's Republic of CA. This would be important info to help diagnose the problem.

 

[sk8salomon]

Does anybody know where I can get this "T" fitting? The number is not coming up with anything at the Toyota dealership.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yep, the Tee fitting is discontinued.

If you can't get one by posting in the wanted section, then you can build an ugly one using a 3way brass block and barb fittings from the plumbing supply house.

 

[sk8salomon]

Yep, the Tee fitting is discontinued.

If you can't get one by posting in the wanted section, then you can build an ugly one using a 3way brass block and barb fittings from the plumbing supply house.

Thanks Jim. Is this ugly enough?
I installed new OEM PCV & grommet as well.

 

[Jaybikman]

I am having the same problems not passing. A mechanic says I am getting oil in my air system through the the PCV would this cause my CO's to be pretty high does this mean a engine rebuild? I want it to pass just for this year. the engine has only 135,000 miles?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Thanks Jim. Is this ugly enough?
I installed new OEM PCV & grommet as well.

Yep, that's purdy ugly.
Looks like a nice Pcv valve, though.

 

[surfpig]

Install a genuine Toyota PCV valve. The cheapo tin aftermarket ones are icky. Billet steel OEM is calibrated right, and never wears out. While you're at it, install a new PCV grommet.

Ditto on the OEM PCV. The PO of my truck (or his idiot mechanics) did a lot of stupid things to compensate for leaky vacuum lines, etc. A surprise it ran at all...



A good diagram, some new vacuum lines and you'll be golden.

(I thought my Kali '77 was complicated... )

 

[sk8salomon]

thanks for the help. I'm still concerned about checking the EGR. How in the world do you get that thing off? I've removed lines going to the EGR & modulator but idle doesn't change.

 

[Pin_Head]

I wouldn't bother removing it to check. Check if it opens by pulling a vacuum on the actuator and seeing if the engine stalls or at least runs rough. If it goes back to idling smoothly when you release the vacuum it is working well enough.

You never mentioned whether it is failing at idle or at 1500 RPM, but if it is failing at high speed it is not likely an EGR problem.

 

[sk8salomon]

I wouldn't bother removing it to check. Check if it opens by pulling a vacuum on the actuator and seeing if the engine stalls or at least runs rough. If it goes back to idling smoothly when you release the vacuum it is working well enough.

You never mentioned whether it is failing at idle or at 1500 RPM, but if it is failing at high speed it is not likely an EGR problem.

they never told me where it was failing. they start by checking at idle, then i rev the engine 1/4 throttle for 1 minute or so, then let off and idle again for a minute. i wonder if i could call them and ask?

 

[NocalFJ60]

they never told me where it was failing. they start by checking at idle, then i rev the engine 1/4 throttle for 1 minute or so, then let off and idle again for a minute. i wonder if i could call them and ask?

Yes, I would call and ask them. They might just have you go through idle to 1/4 and back down to idle and it shows the max readings of the CO/HC during the test.

 

[Jaybikman]

I have a question about my messed up FJ60 2F catalytic converter and a bad donut seal on the exaust header to the exaust pipe. I have gone into emissions 3 times with my CO's being 600 over 120 and my HC's being in the double digits to the 220 limit. I am smelling a lot of rich exaust in my tail pipe. WTF is going on with my system. Do I need to adjust my carburator and replace my cat in order to pass emissions does this bring those CO's down to the Arizona Emissions Maximum? I am also getting oil at the PCV valve and in the valve cover behind the air filter housing. Any pointers and advice would be appreciated.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I have a question about my messed up FJ60 2F catalytic converter and a bad donut seal on the exaust header to the exaust pipe. I have gone into emissions 3 times with my CO's being 600 over 120 and my HC's being in the double digits to the 220 limit. I am smelling a lot of rich exaust in my tail pipe. WTF is going on with my system. Do I need to adjust my carburator and replace my cat in order to pass emissions does this bring those CO's down to the Arizona Emissions Maximum? I am also getting oil at the PCV valve and in the valve cover behind the air filter housing. Any pointers and advice would be appreciated.

Hard to know, but start with the basics. Do a complete tune up. New sparkplugs, wires, cap and rotor, set timing. Then go through and adjust the valves. Replace the air filter. Check out the air injection-is it blowing air as it should? There isn't much to adjust on the carb, but a rebuild is likely due to clean out the 20 years of accumulated gunk. Is your choke stuck on? Look for vacuum hose problems-you'll have a bunch, trust me. I ended up having to replace every single vacuum hose one at a time. If after a good tune and cleaned up system, then look at replacing the cat. Do you have the emissions manual?

 

[sk8salomon]

I called the TN test facility and here's what happens:

At first they stick the sniffer in your pipe & test HC & CO. If it doesn't pass one or either, they tell you to rev up the engine to get the CAT hotter, then let idle and test again. If the 2nd idle test readings don't show better results, you fail. If you pass both the first time, you don't need to rev at all. So, I think I need to check a few things like the EGR stuck open & do a compression test. I put new NGK plugs in last weekend. Any thoughts?

 

[Pin_Head]

You should be able to tell just from listening to it at idle if it is misfiring as it will idle rough. Your idle mix may be too lean, causing misfire, so try adjusting it. If you go too rich, CO will go up. You may have a manifold vacuum leak. Check for the external leaks first before you worry about the EGR leaking. Check the compression. You might bump up the idle speed to the max allowable.

 

[sk8salomon]

I'd hate to adjust the idle mixture because I figured a JimC rebuild was a plug-n-play. If you think I need to, then I will. I pulled some lines off the actuator and connected them to the top EGR port (blue X). At idle, both green and red hoses have no vacuum at all. When I rev the engine, I can feel an ever so slight suction from the green hose. Nothing from the red hose at all. When I plug either hoses into the EGR I get no change in engine running.

 

[FJ40Jim]

You should be able to tell just from listening to it at idle if it is misfiring as it will idle rough.

X2.

Your idle mix may be too lean, causing misfire, so try adjusting it.

Mark the screw and try turning it in 90 deg increments. If it doesn't run better, just put it back. It was adjusted on an engine w/ no leaky manifold gasket , etc., so you may be trying to compensate for a mechanical defect.

If you go too rich, CO will go up. You may have a manifold vacuum leak. Check for the external leaks first before you worry about the EGR leaking. Check the compression. You might bump up the idle speed to the max allowable.

again X2. Pin is right on here.
Read the test form, it often says what the max allowable "idle" speed is.