Builds Elma the red 60 (1 Viewer)

[Garrissey]

This is the greatest blog I have ever read! Like something straight out of EliteDaily.

By the way, I also suffer from "Poorly Named Thread Syndrome." Can you learn me how to change my thread name?

 

[mwebfj60]

Good Stuff, that had to be an interesting drive from Vegas to LA in a new to you 60.

 

[joebattle1]

This is the greatest blog I have ever read! Like something straight out of EliteDaily.

By the way, I also suffer from "Poorly Named Thread Syndrome." Can you learn me how to change my thread name?

Ha! I had to look up "Elite Daily" to see if you were making fun of me. Thanks. I need to get back to posting here... It's been a while.

Good Stuff, that had to be an interesting drive from Vegas to LA in a new to you 60.

It was nuts... Crap brakes, Crap steering, ran like crap... I was still cheesin big though.

 

[joebattle1]

I finished the interior refresh complete with full coverage, knock off Dynamat. (See Thread Here Carpet Install / Tint Removal / Wheel rust repair ) One thing that was still driving me nuts was the rear seat back rattling around in the upper carrier. When I took the interior apart I noticed the "Mod" for this was to wrap the post with a sh:t ton of electrical tape. Now I love a good tape mod as much as the next guy but figured there has to be a better way to solve this noisy rattling thing. So I went down to the Orchard Supply (soon to go out of business) hardware store and started brainstorming...

Here is what I came up with...

They sell a "do it yourself gasket kit" for like $4 bucks at the hardware. I got a can of 3M 90 spray adhesive. I chose the reddish rubber "gasket" material option for the job. I got out a little light weight cardboard to make a jig and wrapped it around the post for sizing then cut the rubber with an Exacto Knife.

I decided to primer and paint the post before I did this. Not sure if this was a good idea or not... We'll see.

I was sure to score the back of the new rubber piece with my Exacto Knife so the glue would really adhere to that side of it. I sprayed the post and let the glue set up for a couple minutes before wrapping the rubber on. It was getting dark out and the temp was dropping fast so I used a heat gun to warm up the metal and help the glue dry a bit quicker. Just a little on the heat gun. Didn't want to melt anything.

I used small/medium zip ties to hold it in place. I let this sit for a couple of days like this.

 

[joebattle1]

Now it clicks in nice and quiet and doesn't move at all. Hopefully the glue holds. We'll see...

 

[joebattle1]

I need some advice... After fighting the Californina smog fight it looks like I’ve lost the war. After the carb rebuild and re-timing the motor it was still missing. I decided to do a compression check. Here are my results. Odometer is currently at 214k.

# 1 155

#2 160

#3 155

#4 160

#5 75

#6 165

That number 5 cylinder appears to be shot. Lesson here... Do a compression check before you spend all the money everywhere else.

I’m about $700 into this smog this year. New Exhaust from the Cat back including Cat, fixed all exhaust gaskets from the cat forward. Carb rebuild, new plugs, wires, cap/rotor, all new vacuum Hose, new air filter, a bunch of those little smog valves, both BVSV’s, just put my 2nd Saginaw Pump in (first one leaked) which is now my 4th power steering pump in the last 5 or so years. I’m also starting to hear my AC compressor whistling so I figure that’s about finished.

My truck is otherwise gorgeous right now. No real rust. Brand new Carpet. New front seats. Just put another stereo head unit in.

I have a line on a free (nothing on this earth is free) 2002 Chevy Tahoe with a 5.3 Vortec w/150k miles. I’ve never done an engine swap so I’m scared to death to take this on. I have removed engines and put newer replacement motors in but never a swap like this. I’m also considering rebuilding the 2F. During all of this smog crap, I’ve built quit a love hate with the 2F. Part of me wants it to run just because it’s been Mt Everest. For me to get it running right would be a great accomplishment. The other part of me says why... F this old slow poke. Now I didn’t by an LC for speed but I do want to tow my little blue hilux camping trailer and one day drive to Sourh America and have a generally reliable truck again. I’m also not interested in resale value as I plan to keep this as long as I’m alive.

If I do the V8 swap I want to put an H55 in as I’m s stick shift junky. Even my daily driver is a stick. Questions I have. Can I mate the H55 in Ca or does it have to be the same trans it came with? Am I crazy to think I can do this in my driveway and keep it CA legal? Should I just rebuild the 2F and fight smog for ever. What else should I be considering?

This pic is from last night. Was about to do a valve adjustment but now I’m like... What’s the point.

 

[Garrissey]

More respect points if you do the rebuild on the Mighty 2F. Once you change the powerplant to a Vortec, you just have one nice looking 2002 Chevy.

Like you said, you dont gotta worry about going fast. Changing the powerplant is like performing Seppuku for the ancient Samurai Warriors. The soul is lost, and you will never be able to look at your beautiful Cruiser in her headlights the same way again.

 

[g-man]

There's this one: How on earth do I get rid of this engine?

Buy it, sell the trans and t/case and pop it in while you rebuild your original?

 

[joebattle1]

There's this one: How on earth do I get rid of this engine?

Buy it, sell the trans and t/case and pop it in while you rebuild your original?

This is not a bad idea... I just posted in his thread.

 

[gregnash]

With regards to the question of mating the H55 to the Vortec for Cali compliance, maybe talk with Georg (@orangefj45 ) and see if he has run into any issues.

 

[mattressking]

I'd rebuild the top end of the 2F and save up for the swap after. 2F is one of the easiest motors to do a top end on and then you'll have that additional confidence for the swap later.

Gaskets, misc bits and some machine work is much cheaper than a swap any day of the week and you'll be good for a while.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah it could simply be that the HG blew at #5 only and thus the low compression. Could also be a stuck ring.. I would do a full compression test (wet and dry) maybe drop some MMO down that cylinder to see what is going on.

Have you seen any blowby that would indicate bad rings? There is also a test out there (can't think of what it is called for the life of me) where you can test things like that with a compresser.

 

[joebattle1]

More respect points if you do the rebuild on the Mighty 2F. Once you change the powerplant to a Vortec, you just have one nice looking 2002 Chevy.

Have you driven a V8 60? I havent driven a Vortec but i have driven @goose4433 TBI. Smiles per mile are pretty big... Just sayin.

One thing that I love about the 2F is how quiet it is. When I was young I wanted all my engines to be as loud as possible. At about 35 years old I went the total opposite direction. Now I want everything as quiet as possible. I'm so on the fence on this.

I'd rebuild the top end of the 2F and save up for the swap after. 2F is one of the easiest motors to do a top end on and then you'll have that additional confidence for the swap later.

Gaskets, misc bits and some machine work is much cheaper than a swap any day of the week and you'll be good for a while.

But I'm guessing my rings are blown in #5. If it was my head gasket wouldn't there be signs... Like white smoke and coolant leaking or that smudge of coolant and oil mixed.

Yeah it could simply be that the HG blew at #5 only and thus the low compression. Could also be a stuck ring.. I would do a full compression test (wet and dry) maybe drop some MMO down that cylinder to see what is going on.

Have you seen any blowby that would indicate bad rings? There is also a test out there (can't think of what it is called for the life of me) where you can test things like that with a compresser.

MMO Greg? I'm not familiar... Again... I'm guessing the rings are cooked.

No, No blow by. I'll search for this test you speak of.

 

[mattressking]

Have you driven a V8 60? I havent driven a Vortec but i have driven @goose4433 TBI. Smiles per mile are pretty big... Just sayin.

One thing that I love about the 2F is how quiet it is. When I was young I wanted all my engines to be as loud as possible. At about 35 years old I went the total opposite direction. Now I want everything as quiet as possible. I'm so on the fence on this.



But I'm guessing my rings are blown in #5. If it was my head gasket wouldn't there be signs... Like white smoke and coolant leaking or that smudge of coolant and oil mixed.



MMO Greg? I'm not familiar... Again... I'm guessing the rings are cooked.

No, No blow by. I'll search for this test you speak of.

You are correct, usually there is signs of milkshake, coolant loss, or two adjacent cylinders having lower than average compression. Once you do a wet compression test, you'll know!

 

[NMfjCruiser]

Or maybe just a burnt valve. That’s what mine had because th P.O. never adjusted them. After pulling the head and doing a valve job I’m at 170 across the board.
Met a guy who is a Toyota tech and a 60 fanatic. He says 300k easy IF you change the oil and keep the valves adjusted. I’m kinda banking on that....
I doubt it’s the rings, just talked to a guy with 400k on his 2f.

I’ve driven Diesels, V8s etc. sure they’re all cool but to me it takes away from 60 experience.
Just recently drove an LX570. Fast, smooth as hell (even at 65 on washboard) has crawling mode etc. BUT it’s just not the experience I get in my 60...

 

[joebattle1]

Or maybe just a burnt valve. That’s what mine had because th P.O. never adjusted them. After pulling the head and doing a valve job I’m at 170 across the board.
Met a guy who is a Toyota tech and a 60 fanatic. He says 300k easy IF you change the oil and keep the valves adjusted. I’m kinda banking on that....
I doubt it’s the rings, just talked to a guy with 400k on his 2f.

I’ve driven Diesels, V8s etc. sure they’re all cool but to me it takes away from 60 experience.
Just recently drove an LX570. Fast, smooth as hell (even at 65 on washboard) has crawling mode etc. BUT it’s just not the experience I get in my 60...

I was sort of thinking the same thing. Just didn't seam likely that one cyl blew a ring on this thing. In 10 years and about 17k miles I've never done a valve adjust. I have no records before me so hard to say when it was done. My carb was a total virgin as of last week according to Marlin who rebuilt it for me. Leaves me to believe that the valves were probably done one time if ever. There are markings on the head cover bolts so it appears that someone removed it at some point.

 

[NMfjCruiser]

You can isolate the valve with by trying a little light oil in the cylinder. If it comes up it could be a ring. Or even better is a leak down test. I just took a leap of faith, figured either way I’d be pulling the head.

 

[joebattle1]

Sooooo... I was just movin right along with some work on the rig and bam! I broke my leg falling off a mtn bike. I was jumping a curb like I was 13 again only I'm not. Had to have a plate and seven screws put in. This made the wrenchin real hard. I did eventually manage to get some work done and I'm finally able to walk again (albeit real slow) around the garage. So @Chopperbobsmith jumped in to help me pull the head last weekend. Georg recommended a machine shop near him that he uses all the time so I'm going to drive up there next week and drop it off.

I really debated pulling the whole motor and doing the whole rebuild but I'm hoping this head job is all I need for a while. My driveway is on a hill and it would involve me doing some very clever sh!t to flip the truck around as it was facing the wrong way in the driveway to pull the motor. Anywho... Moving on... I hope...

Finger nail polish is your friend...

Had to break out the tail end of the floor jack to get more leverage. These head bolts were on good and tight. That back driver side one is a huge bitch to get to with the motor in the truck. Don't forget about that middle bolt.

Once we got the bolts all lose the head came right off with a small pry with a flat head screwdriver. We lifted it up onto a piece of 2'x4' that was laying around the garage and then slid the whole thing over top of the rad towards the front of the truck. Worked like a champ.

The top of the piston on cylinder #5 definitely has a different burn pattern than the rest. You can see it in this pick a bit. Second from the fire wall.

 

[joebattle1]

Got the water pump pulled over the weekend. It appears to be in decent shape but I recently bought a new one so I figured now is a good time to throw it on. I also decided to chop my shroud in half as well. Debating buying a new radiator since I have all this stuff out of the way. I recently had the radiator touched up but the guy said he didn’t think it would hold up to long. What radiator are people using these days?

 

[gregnash]

Nicely done! Did pretty much the same with mine, parked it in my buddies garage and then took over everything I could. Took a couple weeks to get everything buttoned up with new parts, reworked head, etc. at the rate of a couple hours a night, a few nights a week.

TAKE CARE OF THE GALLEY PLUG WHILE THE HEAD IS OFF!!!
Oh yeah and dont forget to paint the head too. Mine came back from the shop completely stripped and I forgot before putting it on. Has a nice patina to it now... LOL