100 Series Electrical issue- not batter or alternator (4 Viewers)

[17heinner]

Hey I have a 2001 100 series land cruiser and recently had some issues.
Back story- it's my 3rd vehicle and has about 395k miles on it. Didn't drive it for 2 weeks and had a couple of cold days (close to freezing). Started it up but it was a hard start. Drove it about 2 miles, and everything died on me while driving and battery light came on. Jumped it, and drove a short distance before it stalled again. Did it a 3rd time and stalled again. Put batter on a charger and it ran for about 30min before it stalled out.
Battery is good as it's only 2 yrs old. Also tested it.
Figure I would pull the alternator as that had to be it. Oncr pulled, I tested it and that tested good.
Only thing is the alternator plug/connector was extremely brittle. It broke when disconnecting it. I replaced it, but before I put the alternator back in thought I might see if anyone else has seen this.
Checked the grounds and none are corroded/disconnected.
I'm at a loss and could use help on the issue. I feel like that alternator connection isn't it, as it was still connected to the alternator pretty tightly before I disconnected it/broke it.

 

[uHu]

Congrats on nearly 400 k.
Four points that might help you get further in your quest:
- What charge voltage do you have?
- What does it mean that you tested the alternator? Has it been run in a test bench at full power?
- The alt. plug is known for developing a loose connection over time.
- Your battery isn't that good anymore, after draining it several times, if it is a normal lead/acid.

 

[17heinner]

Thanks!
I got the alternator tested at 2 different parts store (O'Reilly and autozone) and both tested it multiple times with a good rating.
Took the battery as well and that tested good at the parts store above. Battery was only drained once. As it never got another full charge until I put it on a charger. Car started and ran but stalled out.
Just in a loss at this point.
Alternator plug is the only thing so far but I wasn't really loose. In fact is was kind of hard to get out, it was only after I got it out, it fell a part.
Thanks for your help on this

 

[nissanh]

Did you check the voltage at the battery when engine is running with all the accessories on?
A battery that is NOT made by SC Johnson Control are really junk. Any autopart store battery would die in about 2 years. Try using a battery from another car.

 

[17heinner]

Did you check the voltage at the battery when engine is running with all the accessories on?
A battery that is NOT made by SC Johnson Control are really junk. Any autopart store battery would die in about 2 years. Try using a battery from another car.

No. All the symptoms pointed to the alternator and honestly would have purchased a new one but thought I would test it at the store.
Went to a second store to test it againt, just to be 100%.
Thought I would ask here first before putting the alternator back in and testing with a volt meter.
Only think I can think of is that connector.
Battery has been sitting with a charger and is still good.
Maybe I'll put it all back together and try a different battery.
Just thought someone went through something similar.
Thanks for response

 

[Casey Kiernan]

Unplug the battery overnight and see if it drains or holds its charge - If it's drained(draining) in the morning then the battery is bad.

Next check to see if something is draining the battery -

 

[Fairgame]

Check and clean fuses, fuel and airfilters

 

[17heinner]

Unplug the battery overnight and see if it drains or holds its charge - If it's drained(draining) in the morning then the battery is bad.

Next check to see if something is draining the battery -

Battery sat overnight and did not drain. Checked everything except the alternator electrical line for continuity

 

[17heinner]

Check and clean fuses, fuel and airfilters

Fuses are good. Fuel and airfilters are good. My batter light is on and car stalls while driving. It's something with the alternator or alternator connection. Really I'm a loss

 

[SoCal_80]

Bad internals in the battery? I had a similar issue that all was well until i turned the lights on or the turn signals..It would cause the volt meter to dip considerably as the blinker “blinked”. The point is the battery may be testing good but as you move the truck the plates move (move apart) and the battery‘s internal voltage is dropping and possibly causing your issue. Not sure if i read in the thread I would swap batteries to rule it out.

 

[17heinner]

Bad internals in the battery? I had a similar issue that all was well until i turned the lights on or the turn signals..It would cause the volt meter to dip considerably as the blinker “blinked”. The point is the battery may be testing good but as you move the truck the plates move (move apart) and the battery‘s internal voltage is dropping and possibly causing your issue. Not sure if i read in the thread I would swap batteries to rule it out.

Thanks for the reply but swapped batteries and same issue.

 

[nissanh]

Report the voltage at the battery when engine is running.
Also check the voltage between the B+ post at the alternator ( 10 mm nut/positive terminal of the alternator heading to battery) and ground (vehicle frame/body/alternator body) when engine is running. Both readings must be same (about 14 V) at idle.

 

[Fairgame]

Fuses are good. Fuel and airfilters are good. My batter light is on and car stalls while driving. It's something with the alternator or alternator connection. Really I'm a loss

Try looking at earths and terminals and connections from the alternator. Probably best to take it to an electrician

 

[uHu]

To me it sounds like a bad alternator - 1 shorted diode on the bridge, or faulty regulator. I know you have had it checked, but still.

 

[17heinner]

Report the voltage at the battery when engine is running.
Also check the voltage between the B+ post at the alternator ( 10 mm nut/positive terminal of the alternator heading to battery) and ground (vehicle frame/body/alternator body) when engine is running. Both readings must be same (about 14 V) at idle.

Thanks for the response! Only thing I haven't tested is the alternator to the battery. Not sure how to do that at the battery and alternator are on opposite sides of the engine compartment in a 100 series LC. Any suggestions would be great!

 

[17heinner]

Try looking at earths and terminals and connections from the alternator. Probably best to take it to an electrician

Thanks for the response. I may have to do that

 

[17heinner]

To me it sounds like a bad alternator - 1 shorted diode on the bridge, or faulty regulator. I know you have had it checked, but still.

That's my thought as well. I may just change put the alternator and cross my fingers. Thanks for the input

 

[Land Shark]

Should be able to take a VOM while vehicle is running to get a voltage reading at battery. Should give you some idea of what the alternator is putting out.

 

[nissanh]

Thanks for the response! Only thing I haven't tested is the alternator to the battery. Not sure how to do that at the battery and alternator are on opposite sides of the engine compartment in a 100 series LC. Any suggestions would be great!

Place the negative (black wire lead) of the volt meter on any nut or bolt and place the positive (red wire lead) on the B+ terminal on the alternator.

 

[Land Shark]

^^^ even better