Elate Supercharger install (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 25, 2023
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Location
Haslet, TX
Another member on the forum board here did an Elate supercharger install. I reached out and he answered my questions and followed up with Travis at Elate.

Today all but two parts have come it. Have enough to get well started into my project. I am sure more stuff will be needed as I get into it.

I opted for the thicker of the two intercooler cores. Since I don’t have VVtI and air pipes under my intake I can do this without having to raise the intake as I understand it.

The heat exchanger is here too.. that mounts in front of the radiator / behind the grille.

I have new a AEM hi flow pump installed already and new injectors accommodate the boost on E85. That is my plan to be E85 fuel capable.

I guess I need to drive this e85 gas out, and fill
Up with premium and get an ethanol content around 10% because that the gas we have normally.

Take the e85 out of the equation and get a base line. My e85 ecm take that base line and builds a map over that as a starting place.

Wide band 02 AEM installed and working now.

Once I tear into this, I will post as it goes.

I already invested into Transmission Balve body upgrade too. That mod is completed.

Have an unlocked ready to flash sequoia ECU ready to re pin to my truck, and use it. If I need to play with timing or fuel base like fuel mapping.

My e85 ECU can control base map too with little to no ethanol content, just no timing.

I like
To set it up stock Computer 1st that way if malfunction e85 ecm happens, there is a plug to take it out of the loop and regular gas and keep
Going.

Time will tell with the larger injections how the stock ECU handles them if it can… or not.

Ok, that’s it… report back as it happens.

Tex

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very cool. what's the deal with the sequoia ECU?
Strangely enough the Sequoia same engine is rated with more HP than the 100 NON VVTI why?
Possible map in ECU? The 99 ECU is non flashable
The sequoia is. The other thing on the Sequoia ECU is rear 02 sensor delete, canister delete, and if wanted IMMO delete. If you choose to leave the 02 sensors no problem, just the ECU will preform a moniter test nor set a code for bag rear o2 sensors or bad cats.

Then the ECU itself can be flashed to change timing , trans, fuel making.

That’s why I did it.

Also, it can be programmed to either control fuel pump relay or fuel pump ECU. Unknown if my 99 current ECU with fuel pump ECU Low. Med, Hi can’t keep up with fuel demand and not lean out during the transition.

Tex
 
Awesome project. You got the same manifold I went with. It's great.

Just my opinion for what its worth. If I had the setup you have I wouldn't even worry about timing. I would just add boost ref fuel regulator and upgrade fuel pump. Run a little higher fuel pressure if lambda is little lean under boost.
Stock control for everything would be how I would keep it. Iat Temps will be very good. Confirm good afr/lambda with wideband. Run 93 octane and keep it under 8 psi and it should be awesome. 100+ extra reliable whp and stock ecu . 😁

You will be at a max safe whp for stock bottom end 2uz.

Will be following. Good luck!
 
Awesome project. You got the same manifold I went with. It's great.

Just my opinion for what its worth. If I had the setup you have I wouldn't even worry about timing. I would just add boost ref fuel regulator and upgrade fuel pump. Run a little higher fuel pressure if lambda is little lean under boost.
Stock control for everything would be how I would keep it. Iat Temps will be very good. Confirm good afr/lambda with wideband. Run 93 octane and keep it under 8 psi and it should be awesome. 100+ extra reliable whp and stock ecu . 😁

You will be at a max safe whp for stock bottom end 2uz.

Will be following. Good luck!
What year was the one you done?

I bought an adjustable regulator with the plan to remove the OEM regulator and replaced with a fitting rail to AN-6 hose. Have all new hose to make hose with swivel fittings. Then an-4 to metal return line to tank, from regulator.

What lambda did you target “open” loop wide open throttle? With the Wide band Aem already installed currently, stock map with 2% ethanol fuel now I see .79-.81 Lambda at wot now, NA at sea level.

I opted for the thicker intercooler since we are in Texas heat during the summers. Bought new FIC injectors matched flowed 377 cc ish at 3 bar , 43 psi is the spec sheet. Planning to target 7.5 ish boost with one of two optional pulleys at 600-700 MSL.

About ready to tear it down for the install. Getting small detail parts in hand before, o ring, gaskets, hose, fuel lines, fitting's ect. Minimize the down time, got most of the ethanol fuel burned out currently to start with base tune showing 2% now. Next tank will be my home base Premium 93 as a starting point.

Take care

Tex
 
Sounds like a great start. Look forward to your progress. I targeted the same lambda at that boost. I had Travis make me a 60mm manifold a year or so ago its been great even in crazy Dubai heat. Post up the pics when you get started. Feel free to message me of you need any specific pics are anything. Most of the info for my build is in my build threads.
 
An update,
Finally got the rest of my parts for the Supercharger installation. I received the last part about 3 weeks ago, and got on my project LC 1994 lift, brakes, bumpers, rear cargo drawers… I got that done and back on the 100 SC install.

Today drained the coolant, removed the intake, and water neck cross over.

The cross over water neck requires 80 mm removed and welded back together.

Got the water next cross over cutt and surprising how clean the intake ports, and valves are exceptionally clean for "1995" correction 1999 year 390k original miles. Valves seals replaced at 379000 miles.

Tex

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Ok, intake water neck modification completed. Decided to go ahead and remove timing belt and lower crank pulley. Light seep of oil accumulated around the front after 12,000 miles. Not to the point of oil drip on the floor.

Replaced Asin seals from oil seal kit, when I changed this oil pump and Oring in the front of the engine 12,000 miles ago.

Went OEM seal this go around. Oem yota pump did not come with a seal or oil pump screen gasket. Hopefully, this will cure it.

This is back together now and moving forward.

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Now to the SC install… make sure and bolt the water neck 1st before the intake itself, one nut is not accessible once intake is installed. I saw this and didn’t fall into the trap.

Fuel lines made, and fuel pressure regulator installed. Fuel pressure adjusted prelim to 3 bar / 43 psi… and leaked checked good.

Water lines to the intercooler next.

Tex

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Awesome project. You got the same manifold I went with. It's great.

Just my opinion for what its worth. If I had the setup you have I wouldn't even worry about timing. I would just add boost ref fuel regulator and upgrade fuel pump. Run a little higher fuel pressure if lambda is little lean under boost.
Stock control for everything would be how I would keep it. Iat Temps will be very good. Confirm good afr/lambda with wideband. Run 93 octane and keep it under 8 psi and it should be awesome. 100+ extra reliable whp and stock ecu . 😁

You will be at a max safe whp for stock bottom end 2uz.

Will be following. Good luck!
Already have hi flow / e85 compatible fuel pump installed. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator and raise FP 1psi per pound of boost.

Higher flow matched flow injectors installed, e85 capable ECM installed and can adjust base map on 93 octane fuel. No timing change… planned.

01 sequoia ecm standing by, to be able to flash base map if needed. Swap pins on ECU plugs and exchange ECMs. The 99 isn’t flashable but the 01 is.

E85 is the plan for most of its future.

Tex
 
Today, things slowed down. Fabrication without plans creates the next 3-5 things effected , did you consider ?

Reservoir inlet outlet pointing wrong direction according to flow through components IMO. So I made a bracket to cradle the reservoir and hose clamp it to the bracket. I didn’t have a long enough hose clamp, but I will get one. It by instructions is uphill of the components, and 1st in line from the return line from the intercooler. Hi port needs to face towards the intake.

Low port to the top of the heat exchanger by the instructions, out from heat exchanger to inlet of pump, pump to inlet intercooler.

Got that all laid out and pump location picked out low in the truck to not cavitate the pump.

Next mount the intercooler / heat exchanger. Hum compromise time, hi to allow air flow through, behind grille. So modified the center brace to upper core support / hood latch to allow the core to have a resting place on the bottom on a rubber mount pad. And lean back against the upper support bracket with rubber channel to not chaff the heat exchanger. Bend and make brackets to hold imposition.

Uppers done core doesn’t move on top.

Lowers to go to brace the bottom.

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How will the transmission valve body upgrade help the engine deal with the additional power? Just wondering how that works?
 
Good question,

I changed the valve body a few months ago preparing for this to come together. Another forum board member lead the way and suggested the valve body upgrade. He claims improvements under power of his SC,
I can report Converter stays locked up longer, to 1/2 throttle compared to 1/4-1/3 throttle, positive shifts, and if you let it go through max open throttle shifts , no hiccups / bumps, flares.. and great engagement on mine now.

So, hopefully stays this way when the SC is on, tuned and making power.
 
Bottom right bracket made, just an FYI my blueprint tool used to find the angles and lengths

Simple romex wire same thickness as my metal.
Last bracket fit like it was made for it

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Good question,

I changed the valve body a few months ago preparing for this to come together. Another forum board member lead the way and suggested the valve body upgrade. He claims improvements under power of his SC,
I can report Converter stays locked up longer, to 1/2 throttle compared to 1/4-1/3 throttle, positive shifts, and if you let it go through max open throttle shifts , no hiccups / bumps, flares.. and great engagement on mine now.

So, hopefully stays this way when the SC is on, tuned and making power.

Valve body upgrade is the way to go with a supercharged engine. I did the valve body on my Tundra with the TRD blower and the shifts are quick and precise, especially under boost. This keeps heat down. I haven't done the valve body on my supercharged LC yet and when it shifts under boost you can feel it pause somewhat, and eventually shifts. It's definitely building heat at that time.
 

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