Elate Supercharger install

[obe12]

Yeah, pause slide and shift is not good. But harsh engagement isn’t either. The right balance between that is perfect.

On the valve body upgrade.

Now, day two fabrication. About out of the woods and clear of this ! I could have pulled the engine in the time spent doing these mods.

Heat enchanter bolted up yesterday, today was the pump mounting. In the instructions keep it low to prevent cavitation, so I elected to mount it right in front of my airbox and allow the water lines to plumb by the head light to the heat exchanger.

Required two holes being drilled in fender well , and a bracket formed.

 

[Wadepat2]

Nice progress!

 

[Bama4door]

@obe12 Any update? We are in the middle of install on a '00 LX470 and are having interference issues with the supercharger hitting the fuel rails. We had to swap the fuel rails side to side (putting the fuel line inlet on the passenger rear of the engine. This is now causing fitment issues where the throttle body adapter for the blower is now positioned right over the fuel rail line inlet. We talked to Travis and he is making a spacer adatper plate to space up the blower from the lower plate.

 

[obe12]

@obe12 Any update? We are in the middle of install on a '00 LX470 and are having interference issues with the supercharger hitting the fuel rails. We had to swap the fuel rails side to side (putting the fuel line inlet on the passenger rear of the engine. This is now causing fitment issues where the throttle body adapter for the blower is now positioned right over the fuel rail line inlet. We talked to Travis and he is making a spacer adatper plate to space up the blower from the lower plate.

Hum,
1st, I didn’t have issues with the fuel rails… except that did have to rotate my throttle plate adapter to second set of bolt holes to clear the right fuel rail with my passenger side entry of large throttle body.


Now the plate that retains the cooler has a lip out on the side and I ground the top of the allen bolt head, in the mean time Trever sent a replacement top plate to clear this bolt.

Now my intake throttle body is not pointed to the the air box and using a flex hose to make the connection for now.

Travis is remaking the throttle body adapter to angle
The TB towards the air filter box to now have to need a flex hose.

My truck is running, with a duct taped flex hose. This is not complete yet. My version of 4.7 larger throttle body and air filter not in same position as other markets 100’s. Therefore the miss alignment of the air filter to intake.

Send pictures if you have them….

I opted for 60 mm cooler instead of 30 mm cooler too.

Tex

 

[obe12]

Hum,
1st, I didn’t have issues with the fuel rails… except that did have to rotate my throttle plate adapter to second set of bolt holes to clear the right fuel rail with my passenger side entry of large throttle body.


Now the plate that retains the cooler has a lip out on the side and I ground the top of the allen bolt head, in the mean time Trever sent a replacement top plate to clear this bolt.

Now my intake throttle body is not pointed to the the air box and using a flex hose to make the connection for now.

Travis is remaking the throttle body adapter to angle
The TB towards the air filter box to now have to need a flex hose.

My truck is running, with a duct taped flex hose. This is not complete yet. My version of 4.7 larger throttle body and air filter not in same position as other markets 100’s. Therefore the miss alignment of the air filter to intake.

Send pictures if you have them….

I opted for 60 mm cooler instead of 30 mm cooler too.

Tex

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Ps I ended up with a very little bend modification of my steal fuel cross over line.

 

[obe12]

I was awaiting the final solution with my throttle body before publishing any more details. The final solution should be on its way to me.

Now the truck runs fantastic… I did have to lower my fuel pressure to 28 psi no vacuume applied to get my short / long term fuel trims in line after buying new higher flow injectors. Pulling hard 3rd gear of a 4 speed, 4700 rpm max boost 6.5 psi I am 87% injector duty cycle on E85 at .76 lambda Wideband. I could tweak the fuel pressure up a touch to help this injector duty cycle and reduce injector time in the E85 computer map. But I normally don’t operate at that level very often. If I dyno it I may tweak the top end a little better but keeping it rich for safety of the engine.

At all other situations the injector duty cycle staying under 80%, fuel trims under plus minus 3.0 %.
Open loop have richening mixture when making boost, .76 lambda to .90 lambda 6.5 psi to .5 psi boost. Dyno could prefect it better, and tune it closer.

About .6 to 1 mpg less across all fuels in compared to before Supercharging with having E85 capability. So a cost there… if you go Supercharged. Now power wise, like a completely different engine. Wakes it up, here at sea level and like to stuffed a 5.7 v8 engine in driving a v8 4.7 4runner, I have one of those too.
Tips in at 45-60 doesn’t down shift and takes off to make a pass with ease. Depending on wind, I do have a heavy 100, lifted 2 inch, 33 tires, drawers, off road front / rear bumpers / fuel skid plates, roof rack. 78-83 mph I can Maintain Close loop 14.7 to 1 fuel AFR Prem gas / 1.0 lambda and on e85/ computer operation before enriching fuel for open loop operation happens. It accelerates easy to hi speed cut out with ease.


Troubles and hurdles during the install.

1. Top cooler cover hitting fuel rail attaching bolt. A revision Trevor did has this plate extend over the fuel rail retainer bolt. I to keep from modifying the new parts, ground the head of the bolt down to clear the plate, this tho would require entire supercharger removal and plate to change right injectors later. Trever sent me a remade plate to now clear this retaining bolt.

2. Intake alignment- I measured 25 degrees off to point the throttle body towards the airbox to prevent using a cone air filter and installing a the MAF in the new air filter intake system.
Trevor again, he had another adapter made to compensate for this mis alignment due to my USA spec truck air filter location. I have the odd ball larger throttle body with cable actuated throttle early 2UZ. One the the items I was concerned with before I started this project.

Trevor has been good to work with over these two items. I am still awaiting the new adapter to show up. He emailed saying he get it sent off.

3. Belt jumping a rib over the supercharger pulley and under boost the tensionor pulley as the belt stretches under boost the tensioner pulls up the slack, the rib of the belt around the tensioner pulley touching the running belt above it. Hense belt to long.

The fix: shorter belt Gates, the size needed was in between the HD length ones, but no more rib rubbing under boost.

Second part belt jumping, the idler pully smooth replacement pulley kicking the belt off line. I bought a wider smooth pulley and used the oem
Spacer and filed an angle on the face of the spacer.
Now mind you very little was required. This turn the pulley just enough the belt track straight and doesn’t walk. No more jumping now.




Now, the rest is clean up working extending wiring. I split out the wires from the loom and some
Reached one set did not. It had a pigtail harness on the truck originally and I bought new pins and recrimp new pins on longer wires and reused the oem connectors. After the new throttle adapter shows I will finish the wiring harness tape and loom it.

Ask me today was it worth it, the short answer YES.

 

[obe12]

To recap, once the Heeders and hi flow cats, 3 inch exhaust is installed with the corrected air filter connection I will look forward to dyno the truck and have a OEM Sequoia ECU to install. This ECU has the rear cat sensor , purge, speedo, immob delete performed to be able to flash what timing map or fuel map I can modify via Computer program. Where as the stock 99 ECU can not be flashed. I have to re pin my truck harness to accept the Later Sequoia ECU, but it will allow greater flexibility if I choose to chase that.

For the 2 1/2 months I been driving the truck supercharged this is what it needed to actually run like a V8 should. Gas mileage stinks period. Like a RV if you have to ask then don’t buy one.

I have an 94 Landcruiser 80 Series too, I am in the middle of a TRD supercharger install on it.
Just opened it up to clean , change the oil and check internals. Bolted together last night. Crank pulley installed, 304 lbs torqued, and new Haltech 2500 Elite ECU being installed along with hi flow pump, new injectors, adjustable regulator , coil over and plug upgrade. We see how it performs non intercooler, compared to my 100.

What’s the saying, can’t have enough Landcruiser’s!

 

[J1000]

Dang I bet your GX flies now! Post up a video if you can!

 

[BJB25]

I was awaiting the final solution with my throttle body before publishing any more details. The final solution should be on its way to me.

Now the truck runs fantastic… I did have to lower my fuel pressure to 28 psi no vacuume applied to get my short / long term fuel trims in line after buying new higher flow injectors. Pulling hard 3rd gear of a 4 speed, 4700 rpm max boost 6.5 psi I am 87% injector duty cycle on E85 at .76 lambda Wideband. I could tweak the fuel pressure up a touch to help this injector duty cycle and reduce injector time in the E85 computer map. But I normally don’t operate at that level very often. If I dyno it I may tweak the top end a little better but keeping it rich for safety of the engine.

At all other situations the injector duty cycle staying under 80%, fuel trims under plus minus 3.0 %.
Open loop have richening mixture when making boost, .76 lambda to .90 lambda 6.5 psi to .5 psi boost. Dyno could prefect it better, and tune it closer.

About .6 to 1 mpg less across all fuels in compared to before Supercharging with having E85 capability. So a cost there… if you go Supercharged. Now power wise, like a completely different engine. Wakes it up, here at sea level and like to stuffed a 5.7 v8 engine in driving a v8 4.7 4runner, I have one of those too.
Tips in at 45-60 doesn’t down shift and takes off to make a pass with ease. Depending on wind, I do have a heavy 100, lifted 2 inch, 33 tires, drawers, off road front / rear bumpers / fuel skid plates, roof rack. 78-83 mph I can Maintain Close loop 14.7 to 1 fuel AFR Prem gas / 1.0 lambda and on e85/ computer operation before enriching fuel for open loop operation happens. It accelerates easy to hi speed cut out with ease.


Troubles and hurdles during the install.

1. Top cooler cover hitting fuel rail attaching bolt. A revision Trevor did has this plate extend over the fuel rail retainer bolt. I to keep from modifying the new parts, ground the head of the bolt down to clear the plate, this tho would require entire supercharger removal and plate to change right injectors later. Trever sent me a remade plate to now clear this retaining bolt.

2. Intake alignment- I measured 25 degrees off to point the throttle body towards the airbox to prevent using a cone air filter and installing a the MAF in the new air filter intake system.
Trevor again, he had another adapter made to compensate for this mis alignment due to my USA spec truck air filter location. I have the odd ball larger throttle body with cable actuated throttle early 2UZ. One the the items I was concerned with before I started this project.

Trevor has been good to work with over these two items. I am still awaiting the new adapter to show up. He emailed saying he get it sent off.

3. Belt jumping a rib over the supercharger pulley and under boost the tensionor pulley as the belt stretches under boost the tensioner pulls up the slack, the rib of the belt around the tensioner pulley touching the running belt above it. Hense belt to long.

The fix: shorter belt Gates, the size needed was in between the HD length ones, but no more rib rubbing under boost.

Second part belt jumping, the idler pully smooth replacement pulley kicking the belt off line. I bought a wider smooth pulley and used the oem
Spacer and filed an angle on the face of the spacer.
Now mind you very little was required. This turn the pulley just enough the belt track straight and doesn’t walk. No more jumping now.




Now, the rest is clean up working extending wiring. I split out the wires from the loom and some
Reached one set did not. It had a pigtail harness on the truck originally and I bought new pins and recrimp new pins on longer wires and reused the oem connectors. After the new throttle adapter shows I will finish the wiring harness tape and loom it.

Ask me today was it worth it, the short answer YES.

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View attachment 3642061

Did you say you swapped a 5.7 into a 4.7 4Runner? I have been trying to decide whether to look at supercharging my 4.7, or possibly swapping a 5.7. Do you have any details on it that you can share.

 

[obe12]

Did you say you swapped a 5.7 into a 4.7 4Runner? I have been trying to decide whether to look at supercharging my 4.7, or possibly swapping a 5.7. Do you have any details on it that you can share.

Well I did not swap a 5.7 to a 4.7. Not to start trouble on the forum boards by the 5.7 isn’t the engine far as reliably as the 4.7 is. Not that the 5.7 isn’t a good engine the UR is a good engine but compared to the 4.7 just can’t take the miles without its issues.

1. T chain left side tensioner
2. Oil leaks rocker box covers
3. Intake Valley pan coolant leak an issue to install if not following the book from Toyota requiring removal timing cover.
4. Head gasket left size between last two cylinders, if lucky no block distortion and head distortion to redo gaskets only. Comes down if head is out should you machine it then how much if you do. Partly maybe excessively long coolant services maybe a cause for gasket failures.

These engines are advanced and time consuming to work on.
Not your average DIY friendly.

First 100k maybe coolant leak issues and small oil leaks
Second 100 we’ll all depends…
3rd 100 k my opinion things will start happening.

The 4.7 history is better than that when you compare them.
Many can and have approached 1 million miles. Even 400k like mine and still going strong with original transmission.

If you change oil regularly, and service coolant more frequently the 5.7 may not show you these things. But oil leaks could happen as they age.

So how many miles on a used 5.7 plus cost and do you know the history of it.

2UZ are not perfect either, but they proven over time they are rock solid v8s, one of the greatest Toyota have ever built.

As the 5.7 age these issues will become more prevalent and known causes will be learned and maybe how to prevent issues.
I have a friend who has a tundra 5.7 and yep leaks oil timing cover / rocker box’s. Keeps it cleaned off and past 350k miles. His other 5.7 has the timing chain tensioner noise cold start and the oil leaks with 250k miles.

Early 5.7 has valve spring issues that got corrected too.

But these 4.7 VVTI 06-07 year 5 speeds are good. They like being boosted and really make them perform. Again keep it under reasonable boost and just drive it.

I have the 4.7 non vvti engine, 1999 4 speed boosted since March 2024 and zero complaints with original transmission.
I understand the 5 speeds are a little more sensitive to not keeping the fluid changed compared to the 4 speeds.

Just information take it as that.

Tex