Elate Supercharger install

[obe12]

Yeah, pause slide and shift is not good. But harsh engagement isn’t either. The right balance between that is perfect.

On the valve body upgrade.

Now, day two fabrication. About out of the woods and clear of this ! I could have pulled the engine in the time spent doing these mods.

Heat enchanter bolted up yesterday, today was the pump mounting. In the instructions keep it low to prevent cavitation, so I elected to mount it right in front of my airbox and allow the water lines to plumb by the head light to the heat exchanger.

Required two holes being drilled in fender well , and a bracket formed.

 

[Wadepat2]

Nice progress!

 

[Bama4door]

@obe12 Any update? We are in the middle of install on a '00 LX470 and are having interference issues with the supercharger hitting the fuel rails. We had to swap the fuel rails side to side (putting the fuel line inlet on the passenger rear of the engine. This is now causing fitment issues where the throttle body adapter for the blower is now positioned right over the fuel rail line inlet. We talked to Travis and he is making a spacer adatper plate to space up the blower from the lower plate.

 

[obe12]

@obe12 Any update? We are in the middle of install on a '00 LX470 and are having interference issues with the supercharger hitting the fuel rails. We had to swap the fuel rails side to side (putting the fuel line inlet on the passenger rear of the engine. This is now causing fitment issues where the throttle body adapter for the blower is now positioned right over the fuel rail line inlet. We talked to Travis and he is making a spacer adatper plate to space up the blower from the lower plate.

Hum,
1st, I didn’t have issues with the fuel rails… except that did have to rotate my throttle plate adapter to second set of bolt holes to clear the right fuel rail with my passenger side entry of large throttle body.


Now the plate that retains the cooler has a lip out on the side and I ground the top of the allen bolt head, in the mean time Trever sent a replacement top plate to clear this bolt.

Now my intake throttle body is not pointed to the the air box and using a flex hose to make the connection for now.

Travis is remaking the throttle body adapter to angle
The TB towards the air filter box to now have to need a flex hose.

My truck is running, with a duct taped flex hose. This is not complete yet. My version of 4.7 larger throttle body and air filter not in same position as other markets 100’s. Therefore the miss alignment of the air filter to intake.

Send pictures if you have them….

I opted for 60 mm cooler instead of 30 mm cooler too.

Tex

 

[obe12]

Hum,
1st, I didn’t have issues with the fuel rails… except that did have to rotate my throttle plate adapter to second set of bolt holes to clear the right fuel rail with my passenger side entry of large throttle body.


Now the plate that retains the cooler has a lip out on the side and I ground the top of the allen bolt head, in the mean time Trever sent a replacement top plate to clear this bolt.

Now my intake throttle body is not pointed to the the air box and using a flex hose to make the connection for now.

Travis is remaking the throttle body adapter to angle
The TB towards the air filter box to now have to need a flex hose.

My truck is running, with a duct taped flex hose. This is not complete yet. My version of 4.7 larger throttle body and air filter not in same position as other markets 100’s. Therefore the miss alignment of the air filter to intake.

Send pictures if you have them….

I opted for 60 mm cooler instead of 30 mm cooler too.

Tex

View attachment 3641893

View attachment 3641895

View attachment 3641899

Ps I ended up with a very little bend modification of my steal fuel cross over line.

 

[obe12]

I was awaiting the final solution with my throttle body before publishing any more details. The final solution should be on its way to me.

Now the truck runs fantastic… I did have to lower my fuel pressure to 28 psi no vacuume applied to get my short / long term fuel trims in line after buying new higher flow injectors. Pulling hard 3rd gear of a 4 speed, 4700 rpm max boost 6.5 psi I am 87% injector duty cycle on E85 at .76 lambda Wideband. I could tweak the fuel pressure up a touch to help this injector duty cycle and reduce injector time in the E85 computer map. But I normally don’t operate at that level very often. If I dyno it I may tweak the top end a little better but keeping it rich for safety of the engine.

At all other situations the injector duty cycle staying under 80%, fuel trims under plus minus 3.0 %.
Open loop have richening mixture when making boost, .76 lambda to .90 lambda 6.5 psi to .5 psi boost. Dyno could prefect it better, and tune it closer.

About .6 to 1 mpg less across all fuels in compared to before Supercharging with having E85 capability. So a cost there… if you go Supercharged. Now power wise, like a completely different engine. Wakes it up, here at sea level and like to stuffed a 5.7 v8 engine in driving a v8 4.7 4runner, I have one of those too.
Tips in at 45-60 doesn’t down shift and takes off to make a pass with ease. Depending on wind, I do have a heavy 100, lifted 2 inch, 33 tires, drawers, off road front / rear bumpers / fuel skid plates, roof rack. 78-83 mph I can Maintain Close loop 14.7 to 1 fuel AFR Prem gas / 1.0 lambda and on e85/ computer operation before enriching fuel for open loop operation happens. It accelerates easy to hi speed cut out with ease.


Troubles and hurdles during the install.

1. Top cooler cover hitting fuel rail attaching bolt. A revision Trevor did has this plate extend over the fuel rail retainer bolt. I to keep from modifying the new parts, ground the head of the bolt down to clear the plate, this tho would require entire supercharger removal and plate to change right injectors later. Trever sent me a remade plate to now clear this retaining bolt.

2. Intake alignment- I measured 25 degrees off to point the throttle body towards the airbox to prevent using a cone air filter and installing a the MAF in the new air filter intake system.
Trevor again, he had another adapter made to compensate for this mis alignment due to my USA spec truck air filter location. I have the odd ball larger throttle body with cable actuated throttle early 2UZ. One the the items I was concerned with before I started this project.

Trevor has been good to work with over these two items. I am still awaiting the new adapter to show up. He emailed saying he get it sent off.

3. Belt jumping a rib over the supercharger pulley and under boost the tensionor pulley as the belt stretches under boost the tensioner pulls up the slack, the rib of the belt around the tensioner pulley touching the running belt above it. Hense belt to long.

The fix: shorter belt Gates, the size needed was in between the HD length ones, but no more rib rubbing under boost.

Second part belt jumping, the idler pully smooth replacement pulley kicking the belt off line. I bought a wider smooth pulley and used the oem
Spacer and filed an angle on the face of the spacer.
Now mind you very little was required. This turn the pulley just enough the belt track straight and doesn’t walk. No more jumping now.




Now, the rest is clean up working extending wiring. I split out the wires from the loom and some
Reached one set did not. It had a pigtail harness on the truck originally and I bought new pins and recrimp new pins on longer wires and reused the oem connectors. After the new throttle adapter shows I will finish the wiring harness tape and loom it.

Ask me today was it worth it, the short answer YES.

 

[obe12]

To recap, once the Heeders and hi flow cats, 3 inch exhaust is installed with the corrected air filter connection I will look forward to dyno the truck and have a OEM Sequoia ECU to install. This ECU has the rear cat sensor , purge, speedo, immob delete performed to be able to flash what timing map or fuel map I can modify via Computer program. Where as the stock 99 ECU can not be flashed. I have to re pin my truck harness to accept the Later Sequoia ECU, but it will allow greater flexibility if I choose to chase that.

For the 2 1/2 months I been driving the truck supercharged this is what it needed to actually run like a V8 should. Gas mileage stinks period. Like a RV if you have to ask then don’t buy one.

I have an 94 Landcruiser 80 Series too, I am in the middle of a TRD supercharger install on it.
Just opened it up to clean , change the oil and check internals. Bolted together last night. Crank pulley installed, 304 lbs torqued, and new Haltech 2500 Elite ECU being installed along with hi flow pump, new injectors, adjustable regulator , coil over and plug upgrade. We see how it performs non intercooler, compared to my 100.

What’s the saying, can’t have enough Landcruiser’s!

 

[J1000]

Dang I bet your GX flies now! Post up a video if you can!

 

[BJB25]

I was awaiting the final solution with my throttle body before publishing any more details. The final solution should be on its way to me.

Now the truck runs fantastic… I did have to lower my fuel pressure to 28 psi no vacuume applied to get my short / long term fuel trims in line after buying new higher flow injectors. Pulling hard 3rd gear of a 4 speed, 4700 rpm max boost 6.5 psi I am 87% injector duty cycle on E85 at .76 lambda Wideband. I could tweak the fuel pressure up a touch to help this injector duty cycle and reduce injector time in the E85 computer map. But I normally don’t operate at that level very often. If I dyno it I may tweak the top end a little better but keeping it rich for safety of the engine.

At all other situations the injector duty cycle staying under 80%, fuel trims under plus minus 3.0 %.
Open loop have richening mixture when making boost, .76 lambda to .90 lambda 6.5 psi to .5 psi boost. Dyno could prefect it better, and tune it closer.

About .6 to 1 mpg less across all fuels in compared to before Supercharging with having E85 capability. So a cost there… if you go Supercharged. Now power wise, like a completely different engine. Wakes it up, here at sea level and like to stuffed a 5.7 v8 engine in driving a v8 4.7 4runner, I have one of those too.
Tips in at 45-60 doesn’t down shift and takes off to make a pass with ease. Depending on wind, I do have a heavy 100, lifted 2 inch, 33 tires, drawers, off road front / rear bumpers / fuel skid plates, roof rack. 78-83 mph I can Maintain Close loop 14.7 to 1 fuel AFR Prem gas / 1.0 lambda and on e85/ computer operation before enriching fuel for open loop operation happens. It accelerates easy to hi speed cut out with ease.


Troubles and hurdles during the install.

1. Top cooler cover hitting fuel rail attaching bolt. A revision Trevor did has this plate extend over the fuel rail retainer bolt. I to keep from modifying the new parts, ground the head of the bolt down to clear the plate, this tho would require entire supercharger removal and plate to change right injectors later. Trever sent me a remade plate to now clear this retaining bolt.

2. Intake alignment- I measured 25 degrees off to point the throttle body towards the airbox to prevent using a cone air filter and installing a the MAF in the new air filter intake system.
Trevor again, he had another adapter made to compensate for this mis alignment due to my USA spec truck air filter location. I have the odd ball larger throttle body with cable actuated throttle early 2UZ. One the the items I was concerned with before I started this project.

Trevor has been good to work with over these two items. I am still awaiting the new adapter to show up. He emailed saying he get it sent off.

3. Belt jumping a rib over the supercharger pulley and under boost the tensionor pulley as the belt stretches under boost the tensioner pulls up the slack, the rib of the belt around the tensioner pulley touching the running belt above it. Hense belt to long.

The fix: shorter belt Gates, the size needed was in between the HD length ones, but no more rib rubbing under boost.

Second part belt jumping, the idler pully smooth replacement pulley kicking the belt off line. I bought a wider smooth pulley and used the oem
Spacer and filed an angle on the face of the spacer.
Now mind you very little was required. This turn the pulley just enough the belt track straight and doesn’t walk. No more jumping now.




Now, the rest is clean up working extending wiring. I split out the wires from the loom and some
Reached one set did not. It had a pigtail harness on the truck originally and I bought new pins and recrimp new pins on longer wires and reused the oem connectors. After the new throttle adapter shows I will finish the wiring harness tape and loom it.

Ask me today was it worth it, the short answer YES.

View attachment 3642058

View attachment 3642059

View attachment 3642060

View attachment 3642061

Did you say you swapped a 5.7 into a 4.7 4Runner? I have been trying to decide whether to look at supercharging my 4.7, or possibly swapping a 5.7. Do you have any details on it that you can share.

 

[obe12]

Did you say you swapped a 5.7 into a 4.7 4Runner? I have been trying to decide whether to look at supercharging my 4.7, or possibly swapping a 5.7. Do you have any details on it that you can share.

Well I did not swap a 5.7 to a 4.7. Not to start trouble on the forum boards by the 5.7 isn’t the engine far as reliably as the 4.7 is. Not that the 5.7 isn’t a good engine the UR is a good engine but compared to the 4.7 just can’t take the miles without its issues.

1. T chain left side tensioner
2. Oil leaks rocker box covers
3. Intake Valley pan coolant leak an issue to install if not following the book from Toyota requiring removal timing cover.
4. Head gasket left size between last two cylinders, if lucky no block distortion and head distortion to redo gaskets only. Comes down if head is out should you machine it then how much if you do. Partly maybe excessively long coolant services maybe a cause for gasket failures.

These engines are advanced and time consuming to work on.
Not your average DIY friendly.

First 100k maybe coolant leak issues and small oil leaks
Second 100 we’ll all depends…
3rd 100 k my opinion things will start happening.

The 4.7 history is better than that when you compare them.
Many can and have approached 1 million miles. Even 400k like mine and still going strong with original transmission.

If you change oil regularly, and service coolant more frequently the 5.7 may not show you these things. But oil leaks could happen as they age.

So how many miles on a used 5.7 plus cost and do you know the history of it.

2UZ are not perfect either, but they proven over time they are rock solid v8s, one of the greatest Toyota have ever built.

As the 5.7 age these issues will become more prevalent and known causes will be learned and maybe how to prevent issues.
I have a friend who has a tundra 5.7 and yep leaks oil timing cover / rocker box’s. Keeps it cleaned off and past 350k miles. His other 5.7 has the timing chain tensioner noise cold start and the oil leaks with 250k miles.

Early 5.7 has valve spring issues that got corrected too.

But these 4.7 VVTI 06-07 year 5 speeds are good. They like being boosted and really make them perform. Again keep it under reasonable boost and just drive it.

I have the 4.7 non vvti engine, 1999 4 speed boosted since March 2024 and zero complaints with original transmission.
I understand the 5 speeds are a little more sensitive to not keeping the fluid changed compared to the 4 speeds.

Just information take it as that.

Tex

 

[David310]

Thanks for the install pics and detailed information.

Anyone purchase an Elate SC recently and have experience with tariffs? It looks like this will incur a 25% tariff.

 

[Patassa]

Thanks for the install pics and detailed information.

Anyone purchase an Elate SC recently and have experience with tariffs? It looks like this will incur a 25% tariff.

Brutal. I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on the project but getting hit with a 25% penalty really blows.

 

[obe12]

Congratulations… I am happy with my setup.

Tex

 

[David310]

Brutal. I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on the project but getting hit with a 25% penalty really blows.

I would be ok with 25% but after discussion with Elate some of the items in the kit get hit with 50% while others are 25%. Additionally, there’s the potential for tariff stacking which creates a lot of unknowns in the final price.

I purchased all the supporting mods based on @obe12 thread here and @J1000 except for trans valve body because tariffs.

Plan is to run E85, 12 hole injectors, adjustable fuel regulator, piggyback ECU. Mine is a 99 with a larger throttle body so Elate said I’ll need a rear entry charger HTV1900 unlike the front entry here.

Again thanks for charting the unknown. Hopefully I can be part of the SC club soon @obe12 looks like you’re 25 miles north of me let me know if you’re tired of the charger and want to get rid of it lol.

 

[obe12]

I would be ok with 25% but after discussion with Elate some of the items in the kit get hit with 50% while others are 25%. Additionally, there’s the potential for tariff stacking which creates a lot of unknowns in the final price.

I purchased all the supporting mods based on @obe12 thread here and @J1000 except for trans valve body because tariffs.

Plan is to run E85, 12 hole injectors, adjustable fuel regulator, piggyback ECU. Mine is a 99 with a larger throttle body so Elate said I’ll need a rear entry charger HTV1900 unlike the front entry here.

Again thanks for charting the unknown here hopefully I can be part of SC club soon @obe12 looks like you’re 25 miles north of me let me know if you’re tired of the charger and want to get rid of it lol.

Na I happy with mine.

Just to note, I am fully e85 capable and used it a lot in the beginning. I found I just Costco buy premium at 2.869 the other day. The cost difference isn’t much when buying it their vers having to find e85. Also, e85 I noticed a lot more moister collection in my oil catch can requiring more frequent oil changes IMO. I now change every 4000-5000 when it’s 1 qt down and do not notice moister in my oil catch can.

Depending on miles driven, and e85 availability. Unless you drive often I wouldn’t recommend e85 in our area. Humidity, moister in the oil can’t be good.

Far as piggy back, I again would recommend if you going down that path, feedback wide band 02. I use it in my 94 LC 80 turbo intercooled and takes the worry away.

If not standard gas 91-93 on 6-7 psi I have enough fuel flow on can’t remember which new match flow injectors…. But could find them if needed. I had to turn down my fuel pressure to not over fuel when open loop my AFRs. Or lambda which ever indicator or wideband gauge you are using.

My truck is stock ECU now … piggy back e85 that I am not using Basicly. I did however move to 3 inch exhaust and hi flow cats with heeders. There are pluses and minis to that move.

1 plus does rev out a little bit better and can set a CELamp for air flow meter.

2. Sticker exhaust from hi flow cats

3. Louder exhaust ,

4. Fitment issues required heeder pipe clearance issues with steering shaft with all new oem engine trans mounts.

I would minimum run wide band 02 to Moniter mixture and a boost gauge.

Dropping my fuel pressure 2 psi helped my fuel economy get over 10 in town. Saw 14.5 in Colorado hi country. Before 9.5-10 on a good day. E85 9.5 was a good day.

Don’t know if any of this helps or confuses you.

If you have Costco fuel around run your MPG 10
On 200 miles at 2.899 a gal

Compared to 9.5 e85 at 200 miles a little more fuel at what price.

Added extra oil change and you not pulling a head a lot.

Where premium is 1.00 bucks more than regular gas and e85 is available I saved an average 17 bucks per tank tank up when gas exceeded 3 dollars a gallon. There is a cost to the moister in the oil and that cost isn’t known long term.

Take care


25 miles away… have to meet up sometime

 

[obe12]

Na I happy with mine.

Just to note, I am fully e85 capable and used it a lot in the beginning. I found I just Costco buy premium at 2.869 the other day. The cost difference isn’t much when buying it their vers having to find e85. Also, e85 I noticed a lot more moister collection in my oil catch can requiring more frequent oil changes IMO. I now change every 4000-5000 when it’s 1 qt down and do not notice moister in my oil catch can.

Depending on miles driven, and e85 availability. Unless you drive often I wouldn’t recommend e85 in our area. Humidity, moister in the oil can’t be good.

Far as piggy back, I again would recommend if you going down that path, feedback wide band 02. I use it in my 94 LC 80 turbo intercooled and takes the worry away.

If not standard gas 91-93 on 6-7 psi I have enough fuel flow on can’t remember which new match flow injectors…. But could find them if needed. I had to turn down my fuel pressure to not over fuel when open loop my AFRs. Or lambda which ever indicator or wideband gauge you are using.

My truck is stock ECU now … piggy back e85 that I am not using Basicly. I did however move to 3 inch exhaust and hi flow cats with heeders. There are pluses and minis to that move.

1 plus does rev out a little bit better and can set a CELamp for air flow meter.

2. Sticker exhaust from hi flow cats

3. Louder exhaust ,

4. Fitment issues required heeder pipe clearance issues with steering shaft with all new oem engine trans mounts.

I would minimum run wide band 02 to Moniter mixture and a boost gauge.

Dropping my fuel pressure 2 psi helped my fuel economy get over 10 in town. Saw 14.5 in Colorado hi country. Before 9.5-10 on a good day. E85 9.5 was a good day.

Don’t know if any of this helps or confuses you.

If you have Costco fuel around run your MPG 10
On 200 miles at 2.899 a gal

Compared to 9.5 e85 at 200 miles a little more fuel at what price.

Added extra oil change and you not pulling a head a lot.

Where premium is 1.00 bucks more than regular gas and e85 is available I saved an average 17 bucks per tank tank up when gas exceeded 3 dollars a gallon. There is a cost to the moister in the oil and that cost isn’t known long term.

Take care


25 miles away… have to meet up sometime

Today’s prices e85 1.799 compared to 2.899 puts nearly 19-20 bucks on your pocket on 200 miles

Just got current e85 gas price down the road.

My truck, I have a 24 gal aux tank in the back and can pump fuel to the main tank. This is great for trips.
I normally gas up 400 at miles…

May have to rethink e85 more… but I really dislike the moister in my oil catch can system… that’s a hard personal choice.

Tex

 

[Patassa]

I would be ok with 25% but after discussion with Elate some of the items in the kit get hit with 50% while others are 25%. Additionally, there’s the potential for tariff stacking which creates a lot of unknowns in the final price.

Amazing, ok well I guess this is back on hold for another few years. What a mess.

 

[David310]

Thanks for the insight @obe12. I previously ran E85 on a Buick Grand National 3.8L V6 with a 62 mm turbo when I lived in NC. I upgraded from 42lb to 80lb injectors, added a high-flow fuel pump, new fuel lines, and ran two separate ECU chips for the 80lb injectors - one for 91 and one for E85. Tuning was as simple as swapping the chip based on the fuel: Turbo Tweak Chip. The nearest E85 station was an hour away, so I fueled biweekly and hauled six 5-gal containers to offset the lower MPG. It was a hassle, but it allowed me to run 24psi instead of 12–13 psi on 91 pump gas (~100hp gain).

E85 is hygroscopic, so if I go back to it I would definitely run a stabilizer: VP Racing Fuel Additive. I have a 40gal fuel tank replacement from Long Range America I need to install and finishing up a Dissent dual swingout bumper install this week to free up the spare tire location for the 24gal aux if needed.

The injectors I have are Toyota 23250-28080 (Denso 297500-0310) 12-hole injectors from a 2.4L Toyota. I would appreciate if you have a part number for the flow-matched injectors you are using now on pump gas.

For wideband, I’m considering the Innovate DLG-1 dual lambda kit: Dual Lambda Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit and a digital boost gauge.

Based on your input and previous E85 experience, I may start with pump gas and decide on E85 later if more knock headroom is needed or swapping to a smaller pulley.

And thanks I owe you a round . Let me know if there's a local event you are attending.

 

[obe12]

Thanks for the insight @obe12. I previously ran E85 on a Buick Grand National 3.8L V6 with a 62 mm turbo when I lived in NC. I upgraded from 42lb to 80lb injectors, added a high-flow fuel pump, new fuel lines, and ran two separate ECU chips for the 80lb injectors - one for 91 and one for E85. Tuning was as simple as swapping the chip based on the fuel: Turbo Tweak Chip. The nearest E85 station was an hour away, so I fueled biweekly and hauled six 5-gal containers to offset the lower MPG. It was a hassle, but it allowed me to run 24psi instead of 12–13 psi on 91 pump gas (~100hp gain).

E85 is hygroscopic, so if I go back to it I would definitely run a stabilizer: VP Racing Fuel Additive. I have a 40gal fuel tank replacement from Long Range America I need to install and finishing up a Dissent dual swingout bumper install this week to free up the spare tire location for the 24gal aux if needed.

The injectors I have are Toyota 23250-28080 (Denso 297500-0310) 12-hole injectors from a 2.4L Toyota. I would appreciate if you have a part number for the flow-matched injectors you are using now on pump gas.

For wideband, I’m considering the Innovate DLG-1 dual lambda kit: Dual Lambda Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit and a digital boost gauge.

Based on your input and previous E85 experience, I may start with pump gas and decide on E85 later if more knock headroom is needed or swapping to a smaller pulley.

And thanks I owe you a round . Let me know if there's a local event you are attending.

I hear the reasoning, part of the equation is the amount of boost can be applied to stock rods. Their is the limits for these 2UZs engines. If you build up the bottom end and remove this limitation that heck yeah turn up the boost.

I am ruling the smaller pulley on mine now over standard. I am seeing 6-7 psi 2nd / 3rd around 4000 rpm and getting airflow error for flow now on these cooler higher density days.

The 91-93 octane is sufficient at those PSI boost for now over a year nearly 2 years.

It would be nice to see higher boosted 2UZ v8s built forged bottom end doing more.

I am 414083 miles today and about 30k miles boosted. Oil consumption the same as before boost.

I do notice at 8,10,12000 feet not as much boost is made up at those higher elevations when I head to Colorado / Utah ect.

The trans I did the Wholesale nomads valve body too for my 4 speed. On occasion I can get it to slide into gear under certain conditions. At 414000 original trans it be expected.

Take care

TEX

 

[obe12]

I hear the reasoning, part of the equation is the amount of boost can be applied to stock rods. Their is the limits for these 2UZs engines. If you build up the bottom end and remove this limitation that heck yeah turn up the boost.

I am ruling the smaller pulley on mine now over standard. I am seeing 6-7 psi 2nd / 3rd around 4000 rpm and getting airflow error for flow now on these cooler higher density days.

The 91-93 octane is sufficient at those PSI boost for now over a year nearly 2 years.

It would be nice to see higher boosted 2UZ v8s built forged bottom end doing more.

I am 414083 miles today and about 30k miles boosted. Oil consumption the same as before boost.

I do notice at 8,10,12000 feet not as much boost is made up at those higher elevations when I head to Colorado / Utah ect.

The trans I did the Wholesale nomads valve body too for my 4 speed. On occasion I can get it to slide into gear under certain conditions. At 414000 original trans it be expected.

Take care

TEX

Sorry forget, when I get home I look up the new injectors I bought. Not bad prices either.

Tex