EGT's with your 1HD-T (1 Viewer)

[nickw]

Hi,

Silly question....why do you mesure the EGT (whatever that may be...). Is it because you've installed an intercooler in the car?

Regards,

NCR

EGT stands for "Exhaust Gate Temperature". You want to measure it (especially once you are not stock). The harder the engine is working the hotter the EGT will be. Pure aluminum melts at about 1350, so the max safe temp you want is around 1200. With an average probably not being more than 1000 for any length of time.

As already said people have seen temps around 1800 before. It would not take to long at those temps to cause some major damage.

Cheers,
Nick

 

[Tapage]

Hi,

Silly question....why do you mesure the EGT (whatever that may be...). Is it because you've installed an intercooler in the car?

Regards,

NCR

From factory your rig come with a nice fuel/ail balance .. it means no more EGT than your engine can handle .. I thought my 2H when it was new, never go over 100ºF for example ..

So if you add turbo or simple you are playing with your pump ( as me ) with more diesel in the chamber than your engine can burn .. you need to use a Pyro ..

 

[NCR2006]

Thanks for the replies. In fact, my pump has been "adjusted", and I'm thinking of installing an intercooler to the rig...Where exactly should I measure the temperature? Pre or Post turbo???

By the way, were do you install all the guages??! There seems to be no "natural" place for them in the 80's...




Regards,

NCR

 

[nickw]

Thanks for the replies. In fact, my pump has been "adjusted", and I'm thinking of installing an intercooler to the rig...Where exactly should I measure the temperature? Pre or Post turbo???

By the way, were do you install all the guages??! There seems to be no "natural" place for them in the 80's...



Regards,
NCR

I used a drop bracket and put them below the "rear heat swtich" and "strut switch". Basically in front of the shifter and above the tunnel. I also put the far enough over that my leg would not hit it.

When in drive I can see both easily with no obstuctions.
When in Park I can see the pyro easy with the boost guage being somewhat blocked. I can always take pics if you want.

Cheers,
Nick

 

[nickw]

I should also say, after driving around for the last few days and going on the highway the max boost I have seen is 11psi and about 900'. Fuel and wastegate can probably be adjusted.

Also what temps do you shut down at. The truck idles down to 375' pretty fast, and gets to 350' pretty fast after that. But getting to 300 can take 5 minutes or more.

Cheers,
Nick

 

[dverts]

Pic please :-D

 

[NCR2006]

I used a drop bracket and put them below the "rear heat swtich" and "strut switch". Basically in front of the shifter and above the tunnel. I also put the far enough over that my leg would not hit it.

When in drive I can see both easily with no obstuctions.
When in Park I can see the pyro easy with the boost guage being somewhat blocked. I can always take pics if you want.

Cheers,
Nick

Yes, some pics would be veryyyyyy nice

Regards,

NCR

 

[jcolvin]

Boost seems to max out at 11 psi. I'm not sure if the wastegate is opening at that pressure if that's just as high as it goes.

 

[Mickldo]

in your factory setup .. ? is more that I know is factory in 1HD-T .. ( supose to be max 9 PSI )

Mine is a 1HZ with a DTS turbo, definitely not stock.

Apparantly mine uses a Mitsubishi turbo similar to an EVO Lancer.

BTW, I'm still slack, boost gauge still isn't hooked up. Trying to make a neat mount on the "A" pillar next to the pyro but still leave room for the GPS I'm still deciding on.

 

[Mickldo]

Boost seems to max out at 11 psi. I'm not sure if the wastegate is opening at that pressure if that's just as high as it goes.

As far as I know if the wastegate isn't working the boost will continue to rise to 30+psi or until the turbo/motor blows. If it is maxing at 11psi that will probably be when the wastegate is opening.

 

[Mickldo]

Pic please :-D

Here's some of mine.

1st close up of pyro and where I'll mount the boost gauge



2nd hand rail to mount GPS from above the turbo gauges



3rd dash shot showing where I mounted my oil pressure gauge and aux battery voltmeter

 

[Martin White]

You guys really have me seriously considering installing these guages. Nick, you said your truck gets down to 375 "pretty fast". How long, roughly, would that be?

 

[Mickldo]

Don't know how hot 375*F is but mine comes back down to 150*C within maybe 30-40 secs. It will then drop down to 100*C in another 30-40 secs. If left idling longer it will drop down to nothing on the gauge. I usually leave the turbo timer set at 1min for normal driving around town and bump the time up higher for shut down after towing duties.

FWIW, I've also had the aftermarket alarm system modified so I can arm the alarm and keep the turbo timer running.

 

[Martin White]

Thanks. That is very helpful. As my truck is stock, and I'm not planning on intercooling or boosting it, I'm wondering if it's still worthwhile installing these guages. Opinions?

 

[Greg_B]

Thanks. That is very helpful. As my truck is stock, and I'm not planning on intercooling or boosting it, I'm wondering if it's still worthwhile installing these guages. Opinions?

Yes.

I joke that the worst thing I ever did was put in a pyro. Now my foot comes out of it sooner, as I have the info needed to keep temps down. My truck appeared in stock trim, and I could get my EGT's quite high quite fast...alarmingly so.

I install a pyro and boost guage, bumped the boost to dump at 10.5, have a 2.5" exhaust with an aero turbine muffler, have not adjusted the fuel, and I can still get it past 1000F (post turbo probe) if I keep my foot into it on sustained hills.

One of the best early mods you can do to your diesel imo.

gb

 

[jcolvin]

My dash panel

Here's my dash panel. EGT, boost, tranny temp, and onboard air tank pressure. Came from Japan with the empty panel, I put the gauges in. The climate control relocates to the center arm rest console..

 

[jcolvin]

Thanks. That is very helpful. As my truck is stock, and I'm not planning on intercooling or boosting it, I'm wondering if it's still worthwhile installing these guages. Opinions?

I dont think you need a pyro or boost gauge if you are not overfueling. I'd recommend a tranny temp gauge, though, if you are ever towing or lugging large loads up long hills. The auto tranny tends to run hot, and by the time the AT Temp warning light comes on, she's hotter than she should be.

 

[nickw]

It is nice to have a pyro so you can watch your temps, especially on shut down.

Are you willing to selling any of your extras separately? (specifically the intercooler).

Even if you don't want to sell it separately, do you have any pics of it?

Cheers,
Nick

 

[Greg_B]

I dont think you need a pyro or boost gauge if you are not overfueling. .

I would have agreed a few years ago. Everything appeared in stock trim, I was not dumping exessive black out the back so I had no indications I was, or was not over fueling. In fact, I had no idea my temps were really high, and my water temp gauge would not move much at all on the long hills. It is cheap insurance, and peace of mind.

I'd recommend a tranny temp gauge, though, if you are ever towing or lugging large loads up long hills. The auto tranny tends to run hot, and by the time the AT Temp warning light comes on, she's hotter than she should be.

For sure...on the A440, and A442...a temp gauge minimum, external cooler and even go so far as an Extreme Valvebody from Wholesale Automatics in Oz.

gb

 

[crushers]

is there a source for these in Canada Greg? are you selling them?might be a good idea if you aren't...
cheers