is the idea here re-building the brake hydraulics ?
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nope. BTW when was the last time you did a brake flush? If its been over two years, flush the brakes. Brake fluid is hygroscopic it absorbs water vapor from the atmosphere like a sponge absorbs water. It will migrate down the brake lines to the slave cylinders and rust out the bore that the O rings rub on which will cause them to leak.
Yes I have extras of each. I am wondering you want something thicker on the outside and thinner on the inside. This would move the lever inboard ever so slight, just like if you put a fatter C-clip on the outside versus the thinner e-clip. Time will tell.Is it possible for you to measure the thickness of that washer (if you have more) and the thickness of the clip that was there when you were experiencing the over adjustment?
Yes I have extras of each. I am wondering you want something thicker on the outside and thinner on the inside. This would move the lever inboard ever so slight, just like if you put a fatter C-clip on the outside versus the thinner e-clip. Time will tell.
That’s a good tidbit about the larger c-clip having the bump! Yes I’m using a generic washer from the hardware store as well as the “e-clip” provided in the brake hardware kit from Cruiser Outfitters. The hardware kit is mainly the springs, but also includes two of the larger c-clips (what you have a picture of @Spike Strip) for the parking brake lever/linkage and two of the smaller e-clips for the adjuster lever (shown in my last photo).The 'Thicker' C-clip will have a 'bump' on it.
@CruiserTrash in the pic, it looks like you're using the C-clip and the generic washer? Hard to tell ....
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These are a pain to remove and compress. what tool did you use?
200yd long steep muddy ascent that looked like it had been hit with artillery. 6’ round holes 3-4’ deep pockmarking the surface starting from about halfway to the top. I’m unlocked on 33” KO2s with a ~5” shackle reversal lift. My 60 gets around pretty good, but with open diffs I had to try a couple times before I got up the hill.Traction on stone? is it smooth? to many other tires/sand grinding it to a smooth polish?
I was just out wheeling with a buddy, it wasn't that big of a deal. It was a short wet spot on the trail, I gave it a few tries and got up. It was fun like this hobby is supposed to be.What is the consistency of the mud? Is it like clay? In Physics we learn about Static and dynamic friction. If the mud is compact and its surface is a little went no chance if biting into it. A novel approach is Steel paddles that are thick say, 3 inches thick. The thick tube stock is welded to the plate that is placed over the same lug studs. The wheel nuts are tight. It might have 6 hollow thick-out rigger tubs. Then extended tubs with tight coil suspension springs and a welded paddle on the end would dig into the mud and will make the tires walk through the mud. When done, remove the tubs and drive off.
Which part number is the smaller one? I'm going to order a couple to have on hand in case I need to fix this again.
Nah, this is perfect. Thanks!-06013 is the smaller/thinner one. Forgot to take a pic of them on the side. Parts are put away for the moment but I'll try and do it later.
So the Clio in the hardware kit you got is the wrong one if so I'm going to take note on this.Nah, this is perfect. Thanks!
Seems that way - new hardware kits do not provide the same clip as what was originally used. For me the jury is still out on the washer trick and I have not tried the original style clips, so I can't verify a solution yet. Need to drive it more.So the Clio in the hardware kit you got is the wrong one if so I'm going to take note on this.