Drum brakes over-adjusting and getting hot after rebuild (1 Viewer)

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nope. BTW when was the last time you did a brake flush? If its been over two years, flush the brakes. Brake fluid is hygroscopic it absorbs water vapor from the atmosphere like a sponge absorbs water. It will migrate down the brake lines to the slave cylinders and rust out the bore that the O rings rub on which will cause them to leak.


perhaps .........

- if you have not updated to modern materials and the Chemistry of 2023 ?


- the Apollo ,,Program moon buggy car had the Chemistry below installed , it is still up there perfectly preserved ... :D

.
 
Ok, let’s get things back on track here…

I bought a “brake drum resetting tool” and some washers from the hardware store and opened up the drums this morning. Got the washers installed and things are great for now. Truck is noticeably speedier (no brake drag) and the drums are staying cool. We’ll see if it stays that way after using the parking brake though.

Brake resetting tool essentially measures the inner width of the drum and then has other arms on it to transfer that measurement to the shoe width. Cost me $40 and worth every penny. Both drums measure 295.5mm all the way around. The FSM says new drums are 295mm and the limit is 297, so these have a lot of life. I also rotated the tool and the drums seem very round. Then I took the tool to the shoes, Toyota calls for 0.8mm of clearence, so I made sure the shoes had a little gap to the tool.
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Washers in place:
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Is it possible for you to measure the thickness of that washer (if you have more) and the thickness of the clip that was there when you were experiencing the over adjustment?
 
Is it possible for you to measure the thickness of that washer (if you have more) and the thickness of the clip that was there when you were experiencing the over adjustment?
Yes I have extras of each. I am wondering you want something thicker on the outside and thinner on the inside. This would move the lever inboard ever so slight, just like if you put a fatter C-clip on the outside versus the thinner e-clip. Time will tell.
 
Yes I have extras of each. I am wondering you want something thicker on the outside and thinner on the inside. This would move the lever inboard ever so slight, just like if you put a fatter C-clip on the outside versus the thinner e-clip. Time will tell.


Jim ,

i am a bit confused on a details topic key point "

- how does ?

- or

- does not ?

- the fact that a TOYOTA GENUINE Parts set of Brake Shoes you purchase at your local Toyota dealer , includes a pair of NEW OEM Horse-Shoe C - Clips in the Box ?


- now , the intriguing part here i have never noticed or heard about before Jim ?

- study this Parts diagram below please , it states there are 2 different part # 's for the C-horse shoe clips ?

- i will have to consult my
Parts BIG BOOK ,. to find the exact Definition of " T " ?

- this unique OEM microfiche nomenclature footnote is absolutely related to a size difference of some sort ?

- my gut says T = THICKNESS in JIS terminology , 1.2mm thick on the flat , 1.6mm on the flat

- , but i am not 100% certain here yet to be CLEAR , i will confirm and reply back ... :)


@Spike Strip : if anyone knows now it's Alfred The WHITE for sure here ...



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The 'Thicker' C-clip will have a 'bump' on it.

@CruiserTrash in the pic, it looks like you're using the C-clip and the generic washer? Hard to tell ....

View attachment 3412209
That’s a good tidbit about the larger c-clip having the bump! Yes I’m using a generic washer from the hardware store as well as the “e-clip” provided in the brake hardware kit from Cruiser Outfitters. The hardware kit is mainly the springs, but also includes two of the larger c-clips (what you have a picture of @Spike Strip) for the parking brake lever/linkage and two of the smaller e-clips for the adjuster lever (shown in my last photo).

@The Analyst start the thread from the beginning for an explanation on the washer.

@ToyotaMatt I bought the shoes and hardware kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Yes I removed two different thickness of c-clips so your part numbers look accurate.
 
These are a pain to remove and compress. what tool did you use?

To remove I use a mini pry bar set that I think I filed down one of them to more easily get under the clip (or any clip), then tap the end with a ballpeen to drive them out.

To compress, I use small needle-nose vise grip.

Amazon product ASIN B0BS9NYTRB
 
Went wheeling yesterday. Including highway travel I think we did 100-120 miles. Rear brakes were squeaking a little bit again, but only on steep descents on the trail. Everything seemed to stay cool, both on the trail and on the highway. Used the handbrake a LOT yesterday even cranking it up very hard to hold me on some steep hills where I wasn’t getting traction and had to stop to reassess. Brakes still cool after that. Maybe this washer is going to work. I’ll keep monitoring it.
 
Traction on stone? is it smooth? to many other tires/sand grinding it to a smooth polish?
200yd long steep muddy ascent that looked like it had been hit with artillery. 6’ round holes 3-4’ deep pockmarking the surface starting from about halfway to the top. I’m unlocked on 33” KO2s with a ~5” shackle reversal lift. My 60 gets around pretty good, but with open diffs I had to try a couple times before I got up the hill.
 
What is the consistency of the mud? Is it like clay? In Physics we learn about Static and dynamic friction. If the mud is compact and its surface is a little went no chance if biting into it. A novel approach is Steel paddles that are thick say, 3 inches thick. The thick tube stock is welded to the plate that is placed over the same lug studs. The wheel nuts are tight. It might have 6 hollow thick-out rigger tubs. Then extended tubs with tight coil suspension springs and a welded paddle on the end would dig into the mud and will make the tires walk through the mud. When done, remove the tubs and drive off.
I was just out wheeling with a buddy, it wasn't that big of a deal. It was a short wet spot on the trail, I gave it a few tries and got up. It was fun like this hobby is supposed to be.
 
-06013 is the smaller/thinner one. Forgot to take a pic of them on the side. Parts are put away for the moment but I'll try and do it later.
 
-06013 is the smaller/thinner one. Forgot to take a pic of them on the side. Parts are put away for the moment but I'll try and do it later.
Nah, this is perfect. Thanks!
 
So the Clio in the hardware kit you got is the wrong one if so I'm going to take note on this.
Seems that way - new hardware kits do not provide the same clip as what was originally used. For me the jury is still out on the washer trick and I have not tried the original style clips, so I can't verify a solution yet. Need to drive it more.
 

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