Driveshaft clearance: Anyone know what the f*** is happening here?

[Beehanger]

Had a cruiser head friend look at it. He said that I need a new crossmemebr. I’m getting some popping in the diff that could be related to the input shaft being at an angle. Apparently the cross member is dented. I can’t get a new one for at least 2 weeks…

the question is: is the transmission input shaft supposed to be angled up AND sideways with the engine out, or is he right that I need a new crossmemebr …??

 

[cruisermatt]

Your crossmember is fine.

It doesn’t matter what the transmission does when the engine is out, you’re not driving.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Your crossmember is fine.

It doesn’t matter what the transmission does when the engine is out, you’re not driving.

I was a little confused why this is even a problem if there is no engine in it why this is even a problem....

 

[lcwizard]

You're running 4" or more of lift. 2 1/2 lift springs + 1 1/2 from the shackle reversal. Every one I've done with the fifth gear
housing and more than 2" lift has to be clearanced. When the fifth gear housing was added, the front output moved back
letting the driveshaft drop onto the crossmember. Without the 5th gear spacer the front u-joint was over the top
of the crossmember so the driveshaft dropped in front of it.

 

[lcwizard]

no 5thgear spacer.....

fifth gear spacer installed

 

[Beehanger]

Pulling the front driveshaft for now. The back bolts have some sort of smooth nut that cant be grapped, how do these come off?

Dan

 

[3_puppies]

no 5thgear spacer.....

fifth gear spacer installed

View attachment 3282089

the crossmember also changed from the 3 piece setup to a 1 piece design
with the longer trans combo the angles change for the ujoints but then the added lift take the angle back into the equation

 

[lcwizard]

Pulling the front driveshaft for now. The back bolts have some sort of smooth nut that cant be grapped, how do these come off?

Dan

some of the t-case flanges have studs, like small wheel studs. They are knurled and pressed in. In that case you'll only be removing the nuts on the driveshaft side
of the flange. If they are studs and are spinning with the nut, you'll need a new flange. With the studded flanges you drop the driveshaft at the differential and pull
the driveshaft forward off the studs

 

[Beehanger]

some of the t-case flanges have studs, like small wheel studs. They are knurled and pressed in. In that case you'll only be removing the nuts on the driveshaft side
of the flange. If they are studs and are spinning with the nut, you'll need a new flange. With the studded flanges you drop the driveshaft at the differential and pull
the driveshaft forward off the studs

will do. I totally stripped a nut on the front driveshaft. Going to take a torch to it tomorrow. hard to get any dye set on there, wish me luck, gentlemen.

 

[lcwizard]

If it's hard to find dies there, you probably won't find one for that driveshaft bolts. They use an ultra fine pitch, 11mm x 1.0.
You may find it on Amazon but your better off buyer new hardware for a driveshaft and keep the taps and die for emergency trail repair.

Cruiser Outfitters

11mm BOLT Only
Part# UJ11013 - $2.00/each (4 required at per drive-line end)

11mm WASHER Only
Part# UJ90201 - $1.00/each (4 required at park brake drum or per drive-line end)

11mm NUT Only
Part# UJ90179 - $1.75/each (4 required at park brake drum or per drive-line end)

 

[cps432]

Sometimes it’s difficult to get the driveshafts to compress enough to come out of the truck. If you back the grease zirk out a bit and allow grease to squeeze out then it’s easier to compress the yolk into the slip shaft and it will drop out of the truck. Just be careful not to strip the zirk.

 

[lcwizard]

the crossmember also changed from the 3 piece setup to a 1 piece design
with the longer trans combo the angles change for the ujoints but then the added lift take the angle back into the equation

Yeah, I believe there was also a "dip" in it below the drive shaft for clearance. The later 60s also had the rotated 3F bell housing.

 

[Beehanger]

Sometimes it’s difficult to get the driveshafts to compress enough to come out of the truck. If you back the grease zirk out a bit and allow grease to squeeze out then it’s easier to compress the yolk into the slip shaft and it will drop out of the truck. Just be careful not to strip the zirk.

What’s the zirk

 

[Beehanger]

What’s the zirk

Going to grind the bolt off I think, then grease whatever a zirk is

 

[lcwizard]

Going to grind the bolt off I think, then grease whatever a zirk is

 

[orion]

You're running 4" or more of lift. 2 1/2 lift springs + 1 1/2 from the shackle reversal. Every one I've done with the fifth gear
housing and more than 2" lift has to be clearanced. When the fifth gear housing was added, the front output moved back
letting the driveshaft drop onto the crossmember. Without the 5th gear spacer the front u-joint was over the top
of the crossmember so the driveshaft dropped in front of it.

Another note...

With the lift springs + shackle reversal, you'll probably find out that the slip joint is too short and the driveshaft might separate when flex'd out.

To (temporarily) remedy both issues on mine (very similar setup), I used a 1.25" spacer for the front driveshaft. Moves the driveshaft flange outward, where it attaches to the t-case...which adds the length you'll need when flex'd. Plus that changes the angle, so it clears the crossmember.

The correct (long term) fix was to get a longer, custom front driveshaft with a longer slip yoke...and I still had to clearance the crossmember to clear without touching.

But there's another option for you to consider.

- Brian

 

[CruiserTrash]

Another note...

With the lift springs + shackle reversal, you'll probably find out that the slip joint is too short and the driveshaft might separate when flex'd out.

To (temporarily) remedy both issues on mine (very similar setup), I used a 1.25" spacer for the front driveshaft. Moves the driveshaft flange outward, where it attaches to the t-case...which adds the length you'll need when flex'd. Plus that changes the angle, so it clears the crossmember.

The correct (long term) fix was to get a longer, custom front driveshaft with a longer slip yoke...and I still had to clearance the crossmember to clear without touching.

But there's another option for you to consider.

- Brian

Just did that on my SR 60. Custom built front driveshaft from a well-known, reputable driveshaft shop was $360. Longer till, new u-joints, clearanced u-joint yolks so it doesn’t bind. Didn’t have to clearance the crossmember.

 

[Beehanger]

Just did that on my SR 60. Custom built front driveshaft from a well-known, reputable driveshaft shop was $360. Longer till, new u-joints, clearanced u-joint yolks so it doesn’t bind. Didn’t have to clearance the crossmember.

Did they build off of the existing one?

 

[Beehanger]

Another note...

With the lift springs + shackle reversal, you'll probably find out that the slip joint is too short and the driveshaft might separate when flex'd out.

To (temporarily) remedy both issues on mine (very similar setup), I used a 1.25" spacer for the front driveshaft. Moves the driveshaft flange outward, where it attaches to the t-case...which adds the length you'll need when flex'd. Plus that changes the angle, so it clears the crossmember.

The correct (long term) fix was to get a longer, custom front driveshaft with a longer slip yoke...and I still had to clearance the crossmember to clear without touching.

But there's another option for you to consider.

- Brian

I think ill do this for now, and use the gnashed up driveshaft-- I doubt it will break. When i have the cash ill get a custom one

Any ideas where I can get this spacer?

 

[lcwizard]

I think ill do this for now, and use the gnashed up driveshaft-- I doubt it will break. When i have the cash ill get a custom one

Any ideas where I can get this spacer?

You can steal the slip yoke end from the front shaft of an 80 series. A 40 has about 2 3/4 slip, a 60 has about 3 1/4, the front 80 has about 6".
Joint Fuji makes a kit with an 8" slip Cruiser Outfitters sells it. It comes with a the male and female slip, ujoints and the yoke.
The upside of the 80 yoke is that it allows 45 degrees of articulation vs 24~27 on 40 and 60 yokes. You will have to modify the
flange on the side where the 80 yoke will will bolt to. The bolt pattern is different. Cruiser Outfitters may also sell that. I just redrilled a pattern
for that this week. The transfer case had a round flange so, in that case, you rotate and redrill. All Land Cruiser driveshafts use the same diameter tube
so the slip yokes can be swapped between the different series , no special machining

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