Drive shaft slinging grease (2 Viewers)

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I've noticed recently that my series 80 stinks when I park it.

Looked underneath and noticed a grease stripe on the muffler. Looked closer and saw grease escaping the rear drive shaft joint.

Q: Not having found anything in search or in the FSM, do I just need to buy a new driveshaft inner seal and install it to fix this?
 
Perfectly normal, just keep adding maybe 10 pumps to it (zerks for the shaft and one universal are at one universal joint and a zerk in the other universal as well on each shaft) and enjoy the undercoating. Your front driveshaft is doing the same thing. Both need grease on a regular though not that often basis.
 
I've noticed recently that my series 80 stinks when I park it.

Looked underneath and noticed a grease stripe on the muffler. Looked closer and saw grease escaping the rear drive shaft joint.

Q: Not having found anything in search or in the FSM, do I just need to buy a new driveshaft inner seal and install it to fix this?
Driveshafts have 3 joints. 2 universals and 1 slip yolk. If the grease is coming out of the universal joint, then it is probably just some excess grease from the last time you greased them. If you haven't greased them recently and they are throwing grease, then they need to be carefully inspected.

If it is coming out of the slip yolk, then it has been over-greased and is pushing past the dust seal. If this is the case you are also putting tremendous stress on your transfer case output bearings. The correct thing to do is to remove one end the driveshaft, remove the slip yolk grease nipple, and compress the 2 halves of the shaft. This will squeeze out the excess grease from the slip yolk and prevent it from hydrolocking.

The slip yolks should only get a pump or 2 at each service interval.
 
I've noticed recently that my series 80 stinks when I park it.

Looked underneath and noticed a grease stripe on the muffler. Looked closer and saw grease escaping the rear drive shaft joint.

Q: Not having found anything in search or in the FSM, do I just need to buy a new driveshaft inner seal and install it to fix this?

Your u-joints had not been greased in a very long time, were dry. We flushed the old/nasty stuff out with new grease, so totally full, it's normal for some to sling out. The splines, we pulled them apart, cleaned and put moly, as much as we dared without locking them, so again, normal for some to vent.
 
If Tools just worked on your rig then no worries. The slip yoke section should push grease past the dust seal when it reaches capacity. What jonheld is referring to is:
a lot of older d-shafts get harden/swollen dust seals. When this happens & a good amount of grease is pumped into them, they don't release the extra grease out of the dust seal. When this happens it makes the d-shaft more of a V shape than a straight line. Puts lots of stress on the slip joint & u-joints.
On the other hand, if the dust seal works properly (like mine does) then the excess just oozes out & all is good. I think you have nothing to worry about & it sounds like yours is functioning better than most!
 
Had the hydro lock jonheld described happen to me on a suburban. It ended up cracking the tail shaft on the trans so be careful with that
 
Your u-joints had not been greased in a very long time, were dry. We flushed the old/nasty stuff out with new grease, so totally full, it's normal for some to sling out. The splines, we pulled them apart, cleaned and put moly, as much as we dared without locking them, so again, normal for some to vent.

Excellent! I just learned something today. Thanks!

If Tools just worked on your rig then no worries. The slip yoke section should push grease past the dust seal when it reaches capacity. What jonheld is referring to is:
a lot of older d-shafts get harden/swollen dust seals. When this happens & a good amount of grease is pumped into them, they don't release the extra grease out of the dust seal. When this happens it makes the d-shaft more of a V shape than a straight line. Puts lots of stress on the slip joint & u-joints.
On the other hand, if the dust seal works properly (like mine does) then the excess just oozes out & all is good. I think you have nothing to worry about & it sounds like yours is functioning better than most!

You know, for some reason, I'd never heard of this, but it makes sense once you think about it.

I'm in the process of really understanding this rig on a basic level. And I'm as guilty as most with ignoring the drivetrain aft of the transmission, to be honest.
 
120mm: for the slip yolks I stop pumping grease (Valvoline Palladium) the instant the yolk begins to move, usually 1-3 pumps using a manual grease gun. However for the U-joints I continue to pump until I see fresh grease flow out of each of the four bearing cups of the spider. Currently at 335,000 miles on the original rear U-joints. FWIW.
 
Fine. Want to sling s*** in this forum as well as that one, you go.

What I've learned: There are a few really good people on this forum. The great majority of mudders are s***bags who'll poke fun at someone when they lose their job. This is my reward for sharing personal details in a moment of extreme distress.

What I'll do: Forever I will associate IH8MUD with what happened in that thread. I appreciate Claudia, Kevin and John's help. But the rest of you can really just go fxxx yourselves, like the retarded poo-flinging monkeys you are. I do not know how you assholes look in the mirror, sometimes.
 
Don't let them get to you, some people have nothing better to do and think it is entertainment for them to poke people. Mud usually keeps it relegated to chat, so just stay in tech and most are good people.
 
I don't care. The fact that it apparently is common place and that piece of garbage who just cross posted that isn't instantly banned is enough.

I have a low tolerance for that kind of crap and any person or institution that tolerates it.

I've turned off all notifications and am logging off. Have fun.
 
Alright well, if you are keeping your 80 this site is pretty much a huge knowledge base that accounts for 2 decades worth of experience with the 80.

You can stick it out and keep getting help from the good people, and I don't think the majority are ****bags. The post in chat has many replies but it is the same half dozen people.
 
120mm: Ignore those personal/negative comments (now removed), they add nothing to the discussion. Sorry that happened to you.
 
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Post deleted and if he does it again he could get a vacation. Most folks on here are good people, Now lets get this tech thread back on track

I would look to make sure the Zirc is still there
 
Tools may be de-sensitized re moly grease from the times he looked under my truck... :)
 
I don't know what I missed, but it must have been something terrible. And I really can't see how this topic could have sparked such controversy.

I'm really sorry if you had a bad experience. For the most part, this is a really good group. That being said, any forum will have its trolls. Don't let it get to you and keep enjoying your truck.
 
For the axles in my almost 30 year old HJ I use a pump that presses the old hard grease out and pushes the sand and mud out of the way.
So you can hear the grease crackling out of the joint, for newer cars this might be no problem.
I use three grease pumps:
one filled with lithium grease for the axles/drive shaft
one filled with 130C high temp grease for the birfields, fill trough (modified) zirc found above (near steering rod)
one small pushpump with lithium for the inner axle/drive shaft as a normal pump is a few mm to thick to acess the zirc.

Ideal MUST have for the axles, this one really does the trick and pushes dirt away.
2500 pounds per square inch = 172 bar!

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My antique grease pump that I got from my grandfather (he worked for Fokker airplanes)
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