Builds DRANGED's GX470 build/ownership thread (11 Viewers)

[DRANGED]

Your camera and your eye did a great job of showing the true beauty. Something that's easy to overlook when sweat is in your eyes.
Thank you and @kertp for that experience.

Thanks man!!!

The backdrop is a heavy cheat though, and the foreground was all y'all!

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Thanks man!!!

The backdrop is a heavy cheat though, and the foreground was all y'all! View attachment 3388229View attachment 3388230View attachment 3388231View attachment 3388232View attachment 3388233View attachment 3388234View attachment 3388235View attachment 3388236View attachment 3388237
View attachment 3388228

Looks awesome. One of those days…

 

[DRANGED]

Hmm...
Methinks i need some bushing refreshing!
And upper and lower ball joints, oh and CVs. . . .

Rear bushing LCA.

So then the question.. Get OEM bushings and the hassle of pressing out and in and installing (Rear bush), Or go simple with new LCAs (no brainer)..

Vs aftermarket (hmm, but I think I want rubber unless poly is zerked and lube-able, and stock ball joints too. . . )

Well, at #2200 for the TC pair, vs. sub $1000 for stock with KDSS, LH RH and some related bits:

(parts link and other)
I may have answered my own question.

 

[BigNick]

Thanks man!!!

The backdrop is a heavy cheat though, and the foreground was all y'all! View attachment 3388229View attachment 3388230View attachment 3388231View attachment 3388232View attachment 3388233View attachment 3388234View attachment 3388235View attachment 3388236View attachment 3388237
View attachment 3388228

Beautiful Pictures man,, thanks for taking them. Freaking desktop background quality stuff!!

 

[Rednexus]

I'd go aftermarket on the LCAs. I've been running Moog LCAs for 2 years now ($165 per side from Rock Auto) and they are totally fine. Identical to OEM. Just keep the old ones so you can refresh them with new bushings at a later date if you want.

 

[DRANGED]

I'd go aftermarket on the LCAs. I've been running Moog LCAs for 2 years now ($165 per side from Rock Auto) and they are totally fine. Identical to OEM. Just keep the old ones so you can refresh them with new bushings at a later date if you want.

No KDSS on Rock Auto. -sad-

(note to self) Here's a collection of links for LCA w/ KDSS for 2007 GX 470:

lexuspartsnow.com KDSS Lt: 48069-60020 Genuine Lexus Part - https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-arm-sub-assy-front-suspension-lower-no-1-lh~48069-60020.html
lexuspartsnow.com KDSS Rt: 48068-60020 Genuine Lexus Part - https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-arm-sub-assy-front-suspension-lower-no-1-rh~48068-60020.html

mylparts.com KDSS Lt: 48069-60020 - Lower Control Arm - 2004-2009 Lexus GX470 | MyLexusParts - https://www.mylparts.com/oem-parts/lexus-2004-2009-lexus-gx470-lower-control-arm-4806960020?c=Zz1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9c3VzcGVuc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9MTUmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1sZXh1cyZvPWd4NDcwJnk9MjAwNyZ0PWJhc2UmZT00LTdsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D
mylparts.com KDSS Rt: 48068-60020 - Lower Control Arm - 2004-2009 Lexus GX470 | MyLexusParts - https://www.mylparts.com/oem-parts/lexus-2004-2009-lexus-gx470-lower-control-arm-4806860020?c=Zz1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9c3VzcGVuc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9MTMmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1sZXh1cyZvPWd4NDcwJnk9MjAwNyZ0PWJhc2UmZT00LTdsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D

partsouq.com KDSS Lt: https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=4806960020
partsouq.com KDSS Rt: https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=4806860020

 

[Rednexus]

Given the high costs of the KDSS UCAs, the apparent unavailability of aftermarket options, and your location in an arid climate, perhaps it's worth having the bushings pushed out and replaced, if you have a friend with a press.

FYI even in an arid climate there is still some chance the alignment cams will be frozen into the LCA bushings and require removal via sawzall. It's somewhat of a pain and can be done in ~30 min and 2-3 blades per side. It does add around $250 in dealer-only alignment cam parts to the job. Unfortunately it's very difficult to tell if they are seized or not, prior to pulling the LCA out of the rig.

 

[tmwoodall]

I thought mine were fine as I could get them moving on initial check. One came out super easy. The other I ended up cutting the whole control arm off as the easiest path. I wasn’t prepared with new cams which had me down for a while to source the part.

 

[Rednexus]

Probably the best way is to buy the cams and take them back if you don't need them. My local dealers had the parts in stock, so I was lucky. Or, if you have a 2nd vehicle, just buy the parts you need after LCA removal and deal with the downtime.

 

[DRANGED]

Arnott A-2949 airbag replaces OE rear airbags.

My driver bag failed recently (on the fridays before successive mt biking road trips) so it's time for the Arnott replacement, as my take-off supply has been exhausted.

GXOR contact Tim rolled through Moab and had an incident whereby his airbags cracked the sad. We had a good time learning how to swap airbags on the side street. He did the lion's share in the field off of Dubinky Well road (watch his sweet trip report!) by swapping in some take-offs. Eventually he ended up with a pair of new Arnotts and some laughs!

Arnotts secure in the lower spring perch whereas stocker OE airbags do not.
Stock left - Arnott right

Stock airbags can therefore unseat from the lower spring perch with catastrophic failure if extended travel shocks are installed (Like the Bilstein kit without a lift spring coil conversion... READ: do not install extended shocks on stock airbags without mods!)

Stock airbags have a directional port for the inlet of the air hose, Arnott's are omni-directional (i.e. one design either side)

Arnott port swivels for Rt or Lt installation

The retaining clip for the air spring may be accessed with the tire removed, between the frame and body.
long-handled needle nose can be helpful as well as long thin flat head screwdriver. Driver side is complicated by KDSS lines, if so equipped. But remove 2 bolts and they can be flexed out of the way.
Sorry, no photos taken on the clip re-installation

My bump stops are tired and sad. . .
Passenger:

Driver:

 

[DRANGED]

3 June 2024

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Arnott A-2949 airbag replaces OE rear airbags.

My driver bag failed recently (on the fridays before successive mt biking road trips) so it's time for the Arnott replacement, as my take-off supply has been exhausted.
View attachment 3652898View attachment 3652899
GXOR contact Tim rolled through Moab and had an incident whereby his airbags cracked the sad. We had a good time learning how to swap airbags on the side street. He did the lion's share in the field off of Dubinky Well road (watch his sweet trip report!) by swapping in some take-offs. Eventually he ended up with a pair of new Arnotts and some laughs!
View attachment 3652882

View attachment 3652883

Arnotts secure in the lower spring perch whereas stocker OE airbags do not.
Stock left - Arnott right
View attachment 3652884

Stock airbags can therefore unseat from the lower spring perch with catastrophic failure if extended travel shocks are installed (Like the Bilstein kit without a lift spring coil conversion... READ: do not install extended shocks on stock airbags without mods!)

Stock airbags have a directional port for the inlet of the air hose, Arnott's are omni-directional (i.e. one design either side)
View attachment 3652906
Arnott port swivels for Rt or Lt installation

View attachment 3652907


The retaining clip for the air spring may be accessed with the tire removed, between the frame and body.
long-handled needle nose can be helpful as well as long thin flat head screwdriver. Driver side is complicated by KDSS lines, if so equipped. But remove 2 bolts and they can be flexed out of the way.
Sorry, no photos taken on the clip re-installation

View attachment 3652911

My bump stops are tired and sad. . .
Passenger:
View attachment 3652913
Driver:
View attachment 3652915

The rear bumpstops were cut on purpose? They are missing another piece

 

[DRANGED]

The rear bumpstops were cut on purpose? They are missing another piece

Yeah I noticed that too in hindsight...
for reference in this thread, stock rear bump stops look like this:

I think they cracked the sad when riding on the axle, last summer I did like 560 miles on the bump stops...

Uum, yeah, they need to be replaced soon too...

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Yeah I noticed that too in hindsight...
for reference in this thread, stock rear bump stops look like this:
View attachment 3652938


I think they cracked the sad when riding on the axle, last summer I did like 560 miles on the bump stops...

Uum, yeah, they need to be replaced soon too...

Yeah figure-8 is what my rear bumpstops used to look when I had air springs and even for a while with coil springs.

 

[DRANGED]

More Arnott A-2949 pix
Stock left, Arnott Rt (I wonder if the conical form lets it act a bit progressive spring... )

swivel air inlet:

Passenger side access for retaining clip

 

[DRANGED]

Wellp, time to swap out the Right Air spring! I noticed a lean from this weekend's mt bike race trip, with a lightish overnight camping load (and that heavy-ass Rack and swingout system I use.

 

[DRANGED]

Well now, that went quite smoothly, just an hour!!!

 

[DRANGED]

Tips and tricks for replacing your stock rear air spring with an Arnott 2948 spring:
(obvious disclaimer jibber-jabber: I'm not a pro, do stuff @ your own risk and within or just stretching your comfort/experience level (to learn!), blahblahblah)

Press air spring setting to Off on center console.
jack up rear of rig and secure on stands and have a floor jack for manipulating the rear diff up and down.
using your handy HF Icon foldable LED shop light , there's a little space b/t the frame and body where you can see the air spring retention clip

You'll need to release air from whichever airbag you're working on. The clips are interesting and you'll figure it out, but you can press the tabs to release the main clip and there's an internal clip that holds the air line into the bracketry. Screw drivers, picks, fidling will get you to release the air line from the inner clip.

Here, I'm changing the Right side, so you'll just adjust which hose to release as needed in your case. You can use that white clip to re 'clamp' the inner fitting tot he hose, then rotate 90 deg and press on to clip the white fitting the the main hose bracket.

You'll unclip a couple/few of the air line clips to give you slack for moving the air spring and refitting the hose to the spring's fitting.
Here are the 2 I unclipped for the passenger side

With the floor jack supporting the rear diff, and pressure released from the air spring you're working with, AND the top clip removed, the air spring will come out pretty easily. NOTE, The stock air spring just lifts up off the bottom spring perch.
**** Here is where an Arnott air spring is superior (more on install), the Arnott is secured in the lower perch by a pin with wings****

With the air spring removed, looking up in the passenger side's spot there's the air hose slack I'm talking about.
the center hole is for a locating pin, the right round hole is for the button secured with the clip, and the oval hole is for the air line fitting.

**NOTE: Arnott air springs are ambidextrous, the air line fitting rotates for Lt-Rt positionality whereas the stock springs are sided**

New photo · Tuesday, Oct 24, 2023 ð¸

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

The air hose presses into the Arnott, If you need to remove it, there's a spring collar you can pry back with a screwdriver to get the line out

From above, here's where the Arnott shines over stock. The Arnott mounts securely into the lower spring perch and can't llift out (as the stock can if fitted with longer travel shocks (As evidenced by Tim's experience here)

kind of a crappy pic, but you can see how those tabs secure the Arnott in the lower perch by dropping the spring in then rotating (to line up the top with the holes as described above)

... TBC ...

 

[DRANGED]

NOW jack up the rear end a little to seat the top of the spring in its position, and I used a bent, long handled needle nose plier to position and press the clip into place secureing the sop of the spring

CAVEAT... is IS just a scosh easier to do this part with the tire off.

Here I fired up the engine, pressed the off button and jacked up the diff and lowered the diff alternately to get the compressor to fire up. Re4mount the wheel, and Once it was clear there was reasonable pressure in the air spring, I jacked it up, removed the stands and lowered the vehicle onto the tires. Cycle the settings lo and high and back to normal, then drive around the block (or in my case a quick lap on baby' lion's back, climbing the middle line on the back side

Matching hub to fender clearance!!

WOOP WOOP

No off to the Needles district for a backcountry trip over Labor Day Weekend: over Elephant HiIll to the Devils Kitchen camp sites!!

 

[Timujin]

Great to see another GX on air bags. Thanks for posting the how to.