Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)

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are you not going to setup the accessories on the front of the motor and do the belts etc before setting the engine in?
 
Got the slave bracket and will install after engine is set. Same with the accessories. The engine bay is totally open. No fenders. No radiator. Nothing to hinder access.

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Dougbert
 
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Okay, your normal insert the SBC into the FJ60 event here. Those who know this can skip, but for those who might be interested, this post begins the process.

First had to cut and grind off the 2F mount. Jake cut, I ground and cleaned off the paint

Getting ready for first insertion - but the picker would NOT go under the axle. I have 31" inches and the U bolts and plate stopped the front wheels of the picker. SOOOO, unmounted the 31" tires and mounted 35" tires and it worked great.

I want some 35"ers. 31"ers in the following pic. In the 2nd pic are the 35"s

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Tried to use the "clam" motor mount that came with the engine, but the headers would not allow it. So off with the headers, and jake fab'd a plate to attached to the triangle mount point on the engine, using the triangle insert of the OEM mount.

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took some measurements. The rear tranny mount was placed on the OEM crossmember and tightened down.
placement of the "plates" was determined.

Now the power train was removed to allow access for welding

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Plates were welded in

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you can see the 1st plate on the driver's side in the following shot. Welding all around the diamond shaped plate AND he cut two vertical slots in the plate all the way through to allow for interior welding of the plate to the frame. Neat technique and was told was a common thing.

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One of the "other guys" cutting the pipe for part of the mount.

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Powertrain back in for 2nd time to measure for pipes and flanges.

Needed to lower rear of tranny on to crossmember and just lift engine at the front.
Things settled okay, then we noticed that the engine as lower on the passenger side than on the driver's side.

Then someone pointed out that the rear cross member is NOT straight but slanted because the 2F is slanted the opposite way. With these two opposite slants, the 2F levels out fine. But not the SBC.

So some fender washers between crossmember and the tranny mount to raise the passenger side, but at this point we (I) had a jack slip. No damage to men nor machine, but it was a "Oh Darn!" moment as 1000 lbs moves with gravity.

After pic. NOW notice the safety vise grips on the chain to prevent another slip.

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jack stand under ranger and a strap under transfer case to 2x4 on floor hump.

that is where we left it, as jake's family does want to see him at night. Pickup again tomorrow.

Really like his mount

dougbert
 
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Sorry Doug.
 
The engine is IN!!!!! Milestone reached.

DETAILS:

Trying to balance the engine left to right and up/down with level:

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New passenger side plate:

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Space for clutch slave:

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spot welds on Passenger side mount:

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and on driver's side mount:

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Before final tightening, I painted them with Zero Rust as a primer and will put on Rust Bullet on the mounts and the frame

dougbert
 
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Close up of the driver's triangle on the engine:

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Passenger's side:

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Vertical shot of the flanges on the plate:

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Shot of engine mounted, full complete welds done, tightened down, mounts painted, steering box re-installed and the picker removed:

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And lastly, further in front shot:

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Jake did a GREAT job. Thanks dude - the soda machine makes it all worthwhile.

dougbert
 
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Looks like there will be plenty of room under the hood for a blower. :bounce2:

Getting the engine set is a great milestone.
 
Looks like there will be plenty of room under the hood for a blower. :bounce2:

Getting the engine set is a great milestone.

mmm, good idea, there is a 2" inch body lift there......................
 
Doug, Jake

I really like those engine mounts! Is there a bushing inside where the frame mount bolt goes thru?

John

There is

Jake uses a pair of FJ60 shackle bushings per side. Just have to trim a bit and it fits inside that pipe.
I think the bolt is 6.5 inches and is 3/4" dia. with a lock washer and a nut.

dougbert
 
Ran into a problem. My shiny block hugger headers don't fit next to the steering shaft. It touches the rubber sleeve.

The headers are 4.5 inches from head to outer portion of the header.

SoOOOO, I exchanged with jake. He gets the steel headers, I get a set of 2" outlet Rams Horns. Since the horns are 2.5 inches in depth, this added 2 more inches of space between the manifold and the steering shaft. Maybe I can put the heat shield back over the steering shaft.

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Is there ANY use of cleaning them up more and painting with a high heat paint?

How much does ceramic coating cost? Is it worth it at all?
Other options?

thanks.

UPDATE: I went ahead and put rust converter acid on the horns to diminish the rust and then painted black VERY HIGH TEMP exhaust paint on them. They look good for now. Didn't have my camera with me for that trip.

dougbert
 
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paint burns off the manifolds has been my experience....some of the specific coatings might work long term, but I don't think its worth in a 4*4 truck... I've not have any issues with my rams horn manifolds...other then I had to grind a little to get them to clear on the vortec 5.7 around the cylinder head where the valve cover lip overhangs a little. outside lip.
 
Engine level question: Just out of ccuriosity, because it seems people do things differently.... is the engine level in realtion to the chassis-frame or in relation to gravity? Not sure its the most crucial measurement during placement as long as its close, but I could be wrong.
 
Engine level question: Just out of ccuriosity, because it seems people do things differently.... is the engine level in realtion to the chassis-frame or in relation to gravity? Not sure its the most crucial measurement during placement as long as its close, but I could be wrong.

In this case it is both. The frame was level, but at first the engine was notably listing down on the passenger side. Added the fender washers in the back, and pushed the whole thing to the passenger side as far as the rear mount bolts would allow.

The alignment of the rear driveline with the engine must be within 2 degrees so as to not cause the U joints to wear prematurely.

dougbert
 
clutch slave hose 1.webp clutch slave hose 2.webp Doug

Clutch slave supply line routing pics we discussed. I am not a guy who bends hydraulic lines in beautiful radius bends, but they always work!

Sorry, I could not insert into the PM's.

Holler anytime!
John
 
View attachment 947221 View attachment 947222 Doug

Clutch slave supply line routing pics we discussed. I am not a guy who bends hydraulic lines in beautiful radius bends, but they always work!

Sorry, I could not insert into the PM's.

Holler anytime!
John


okay on my big screen I could see that you bent the OEM line back and down to the driver's side. That is exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks. and have a good trip

dougbert
 

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