Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)

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I did remove the small BLACK condenser from the harness (my assumption is that the MSD dizzy has what it needs to provide this feature):

IMG_20141008_103105_350.jpg




One thought I have for the IGN wire is to use that with a RELAY and have a small BUSS of terminals from which I can use to run to systems that need the same signal as the IGN.

1) Coil '+' side post.
2) A good example is the ELECTRIC CHOKE of the Q-JET
3) Other needs of IGN wire signal

TACH lead from the coil is provided by the MSD dizzy I am using, so NO need of another wire to the coil. I will just hook the dizzy TACH wire to the the TACH line that goes into the firewall.

When I did the headlight harness, I found I could ONLY get 11.5 volts from the OEM leads coming from the firewall, but with a RELAY I had 14.2 volts at the head lights. I assume the IGN wire might just be the same: low voltage after leaving the battery, going to the IGN Switch and then back out on those 18 gauge wires. Using the relay, will provide the best voltage to the Coil and thus provide a hotter primary field.

dougbert
 
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Spent 3 hours this morning getting IGN lead, TACH lead and OIL SENDING UNIT lead put into place.
Found some nice rubber coated metal clamps to use as wire hangers and bolts to the firewall.

In this pic of the passenger side firewall, are the 3 leads vinyl wrapped and encased in loom hanging (notice the clamp) horizontal on the firewall:

On the right side one can see the IGN lead coming up from the loom. This will hook to a relay, which will switch a 6 connector Bluesea fuse block (on order). The vertical loom (with a white wire) coming down from the top will use one of those 6 connectors. This is much, much cleaner than what it used to be under my "old" hand installs:

IMG_20141009_115219_202.jpg


A pic of two looms (lower is the one referred to in the above pic, the upper feeds the '+' post on the coil):

IMG_20141009_115047_159.jpg


also in this pic are ground wires between firewall, block, head, dizzy connector (resting on H2O hose) and the blue wire ground going to the oil sending unit. And the MSD coil on the firewall. Hadn't noticed that the MSD label on the coil bracket was upside down - gotta fix that.

Again the clamp holding the wires. I find they are really nice clamps, in various sizes. I will be using several of this, and as a result plugging all those holes in the firewall.

And the RED connector from the lower loom (lower center in pic) is the TACH line for the dizzy to connect to. Sometime in the future I will install a MSD Ignition DIgital 6AL, model 6425. It interfaces with the MSD dizzy just fine. Some day.

I am finding LOTS of room between engine and firewall.

dougbert
 
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No pics today (phone battery died), but have done several things this past week:

Installed flywheel shield
Installed starter
Installed starter trigger wire
Installed new starter battery cable
Placed/installed Mean Green alternate on passenger side
wired up the Q-Jet electric choke wire
gapped and installed spark plugs
installed passenger side ram horn exhaust manifold
installed (4) four spark plug wires from the MSD 35599 wire kit.

I bought that kit with the expectation of running the wires over the top of the valve covers, and that was based on using the stainless steel block hugger headers.
Since that did NOT work, I am going with the "under exhaust manifold" model (with ram horns manifold there is NO space for wires from the top), but some of the wires from that kit are not long enough for all the cylinders. Can't return nor exchange since I bought the kit last May.

I did use 4 of the wires of the kit that go to cyn 1,2,3, and 4 and put those on cyn 5,6,7 and 8. Great fit. But I need more wires for the front cylinders.

After researching (http://www.msdignition.com/products/spark_plug_wires/) I found a set of MSD wires (31769) that fit a 1975 Corvette and go under the exhaust manifold.

121-31769.jpg


Wires for 1,2,4 and 4 are much longer and will fit just fine on my install. So I am buying a second set of MSD wires. I checked into just buying singles ($28 each), but that added up beyond the price for regular set. Geezz. Some of the shorter wires from the Corvette kit are shorter than the short wires in my kit. A combination of wires from both kits will fit where I want them all.

But I will have 8 extra wires that are short (22 to 29 inches). Can't use them for spares on my rig though. Will sell for $10 each. LOL

Hope to finish several tasks from the my task list on post #4 of this thread tomorrow. 70 degrees and dry. Gotta use all the good days I can

dougbert
 
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remember the rams horn manifolds will cook the spark plug boots... I never did find a solution with new model cylinder heads for heat shields like the modern 5.7 have on the exhaust manifolds for the spark plug boots. I have been using the spark plug boot heat sheilds that NAPA sells that are something like a sock that slip over the boot itself. I run the spark plug wire set like off a 99 2500 pickup with 454...to get the right boot combination or what I want to run on the spark plug end with my 5.7 vortec. They certainly will cook the spark plug boots
 
remember the rams horn manifolds will cook the spark plug boots... I never did find a solution with new model cylinder heads for heat shields like the modern 5.7 have on the exhaust manifolds for the spark plug boots. I have been using the spark plug boot heat sheilds that NAPA sells that are something like a sock that slip over the boot itself. I run the spark plug wire set like off a 99 2500 pickup with 454...to get the right boot combination or what I want to run on the spark plug end with my 5.7 vortec. They certainly will cook the spark plug boots


yeah thanks for that source, I understand the problem. That has been a BIG concern for me as these wires are not cheap, and running these rigs in the heat at slow speed concerns me for the heat buildup in the engine area.

I did purchase sometime ago 8 "socks" to put over the boots. I have investigated ceramic boots as well but have not done that yet.

I found at NAPA the following http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...g-Wire-Heat-Sleeves/_/R-BK_7353965_0361176924

plug socks.jpg


$41 for 4
is that the one you found?


The ones I got are from

http://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=spb

http://www.wirecare.com/product.asp?pn=WC01945169

I got 7.5 inch long ones, for $4.40 each. Looking back on it now, I wish I had gotten the 12" ones for 55 cents more each.

plug socks 2.jpg




Here is one MSD wire elbow on the right w/o the sock, and a wire elbow inserted into the sock on the left. The sock has a metal ring that the elbow cannot go through and thereby keeps the sock from sliding down:

IMG_20141018_132544_324[1].jpg


here is a pic of 4, 6, and 8 wires w/o socks in the Ram Horns shadow:

IMG_20141018_131259_520[1].jpg


And finally, 6 and 8 with socks installed:

IMG_20141018_132709_943[1].jpg
 
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Some pics of things accomplished:

Got the wire strung for the Toyota OEM sending unit (which is on the front of the intake manifold) and dizzy and wires for the back 4 cylinders installed:

IMG_20141018_131221_907[1].jpg


Installed the PS pump in the new bracket that came today - this one fits better and allows for the AC mount to fit above the pump:

IMG_20141018_131231_873[1].jpg


PS hose installed with heat shield:

IMG_20141018_131751_942[1].jpg


MEAN GREEN 200 amp alternator mounted, got a 49.0 inch belt but will try a 48.5 inch belt for a better fit.
Mean Green takes 10mm x 1.50 bolts, while the water pump threads and the allen bolts for the alt lower bracket are 3/16x16

IMG_20141018_131247_683[1].jpg


And a frontal shot:

IMG_20141018_131313_783[1].jpg
 
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Yes I'm using the NAPA product.....it has worked well so far. I had to buy a new set of plug wires..(I normally run the Belden ones from Napa, in my case I'm running the ones from a 99 2500 with 454 to get the boot configuration like I want (these have straight spark plug boots), they come pre-made and are good quality wires...very similar to OEM, over a 100$ last time I had to buy some, so the "heat socks" have served me well.
 
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with wind and rain outside (which is suppose to stop late this evening with a great weekend coming), I mounted the radiator support panel on the 2 inch body lift pucks.
With that, the body lift is done ..... not the fully body re-assemble, but the lift is now fully in place.
Now fenders can go on, headlights, horns, radiator placement, check fan space, battery trays etc, etc.

IMG_20141021_121537_596.jpg


QUESTION: I am looking at the connections between the radiator support panel and the fenders. When I took it apart, there was a sealant around the joints. It looked like the actual joints made metal to metal contact and a sealant was put on the outside of the contact to prevent rust, then painted. I know I need very good grounding between parts to ensure negative ground throughout the rig. I will also be placing "many" grounding straps between components as well.

So my question is: What sealant is used for those body contact points? Is it applied on the outside of the contact after tightening or a small amount place under the lips of the contact?

Thanks for input - Things are getting closer. Just got the PS pump pulley this morning, will install tomorrow morning.

dougbert

UPDATE:

found http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063WRH0/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1

3M Sealant

  • 41Mt4N5p6TL.jpg

3M 08370 Ultrapro Gray MSP Seam Sealer - 310 ml. Flexpack
by 3M

List Price: $37.99
Price: $20.90 Free Shipping for Prime Members
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3-M CO. 8370 SEAM SEALER
 
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Finished 9 tasks (from the Buggy To-Do Task list - post 4) this morning after receiving several parts from Jegs

Shot of both belts installed (A Sanden 508 AC Compressor will move to just above the PS Pump - later)

IMG_20141023_112508_723.jpg


and a side shot

IMG_20141023_112550_193.jpg


Finished installing the spark plug wires and their respective heat socks. I did 4 of those socks this morning and my fingers now hurt. It took a lot of pushing, tugging and pulling to get them on the boots correctly. Here is the finished driver's side:

IMG_20141023_112357_234.jpg


And Passenger side:

IMG_20141023_112412_108.jpg


I ordered some "stand off" wire looms which I will adjust and attached to a couple of oil pan bolts and hold the two wires on each side very close to the block away from the exhaust down pipe. Also using several wire connectors to hold the wire in place. I don't want them flapping in the breeze down there.

And here is a pic where the 4 of 5 (rear diff, tranny, ranger (2)) breather "high points" terminate (got some hose barbs coming tomorrow for those 2 uncapped lines) - if water gets this high, my dizzy is long since shorted out - Chevy Dizzies are not water proof.

IMG_20141023_112440_244.jpg


3 near the Prestone drain cap and one under the heater valve on the left.
 
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may be the angle of the camera...but do you have some alignment issues with your fan belts?
 
may be the angle of the camera...but do you have some alignment issues with your fan belts?

there isn't. After posting on the big screen I saw what you saw. But no, they are perfectly aligned. I will try to get a better shot later and repost it.
The offset alt bracket also causes some visual distortion

dougbert
 
I saw the same thing but could just be weird aberration of the lens that is causing a "walleye" effect slightly.
To me it looks like the alt is not clocked properly on the same plane as everything else.
 
I saw the same thing but could just be weird aberration of the lens that is causing a "walleye" effect slightly.
To me it looks like the alt is not clocked properly on the same plane as everything else.

yeah...it could be the angle or camera lens... but the alt is not siting square in alignment with the other accessories, or if it is...there is some serious optical illusions going on with respect to the pics. The Alt appears to be tilted forward and biased towards the center-line of the engine...rather than square with the center-line. Maybe not the best references on my part...but the ALt looks not to be on the same plane with the other accessories.... it that plays out to be true...you will eat up your belts.

Purely based on what the pics show...reality may be different?

If you are running non-gm alt and brackets..etc, you'll have to screw around with some shims and other things to get stuff "square". I see in your notes where that has occured, but the pics look like you have some alignment issues with the alt and maybe the p/s pump too. The belts will have to be right on (square to the pulleys and square with the other components) or you will have some incredible wear problems and potential operational issues.

Maybe purely in the pics, but certainly look down from various angles to make sure you are good. With different brand items and different brackets...etc... alignments are a pain to work out.
 
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Update of the belts and the alternator

First issue with alternator was that the pivot bolt was not yet tightened down which caused the pivot bolt to "slip" in the alternator pivot hole. That pivot hole is larger than the 3/8 pivot bolt. Seems it has worn excessively while operation on the 2F. Sooooo, I found a 1/2" steel sleeve OD with a 3/8" ID, and I drilled out the pivot hole of the alt and inserted the sleeve. That tightened up the slop of the alternator. Also straightened the tightening rod better so it will hold the alt straighter.

IMG_20141025_152922_361[1].jpg

IMG_20141025_153001_140[1].jpg


Result was a change of "off alignment" from 3/4" (I used a T square on the front of the alt pulley to check how far off the alignment was with the WP pulley) down to less than 1/8" off square. I can live with that for now.

Major accomplishment was getting the passenger side front fender on. It took 3 hours of prep, setting up and correction. The 2" body lift put a stress on the parts so removed that during the assembly and had to use the High-Jack to lift the front end to get the lift back in.

IMG_20141025_191100_322[1].jpg


I am really getting to know this rig

rain coming tomorrow and the next few days

dougbert
 
Hey Doug

Maybe while it's raining you can tell me what vehicle you got that air intake snout on top of the carb from?

And yes, that is one of the most poorly constructed sentences on the entire forum. My high school English teacher would have fits!

John
 
Hey Doug

Maybe while it's raining you can tell me what vehicle you got that air intake snout on top of the carb from?

And yes, that is one of the most poorly constructed sentences on the entire forum. My high school English teacher would have fits!

John

http://www.spectreperformance.com/search/product.aspx?prod=9849

Links in post #2 for most of the Bill of Materials for the engine

I think I got it from Jegs which carries this line. Found others who use this. I also have the air cleaner which also comes from Spectre

Yeah, http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/9849/10002/-1

dougbert
 
Got the driver's side fender and battery tray installed this morning, went much faster - abt an hour total:

IMG_20141028_105815_367.jpg


Now with both fenders loosely installed, I will add sealant to the edges of the joints, tighten all bolts then allow the sealant to dry and then paint all those metal to metal contact points to ensure no moisture can get in the cracks.

Also did the 2nd and final coat touch up of paint on the radiator, upon which I found a CSF sticker. Now I know which radiator I got. Mostly just the frame was painted. I tried to not paint the core save in some ugly spots

I had replaced the rad several years ago as my original was plugged. It has the automatic transmission cooler connectors for the FJ62.

IMG_20141028_112145_658.jpg


Needed to order the upper rubber mounts (used) from SOR along with bolts and clips, since my originals were pretty toasted. I was able to get new lower rubber mounts a few weeks ago, as my original mounts were really bad. Also new mount bolts and the special spacers (which are NLA BTW). The new mounts cost a pretty penny, but I want the mounts to last another 30 years.

Need get the rad installed and check the mechanical fan/clutch for fitment - can't predict yet.

dougbert
 
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Installed the radiator for a mock up today.
Here is looking down from the top of rad, with 3/4" between cooling fins of the clutch and the radiator - I think that is a go..............it looks good! Yeah!............

IMG_20141030_093143_339.jpg


THEN ran into this, after trying to rotate the fan by hand:

IMG_20141030_094848_247.jpg


the fan hits the lower pipe - whoops!

This is a 19" inch fan, so that is too big. Did some research, and found the following fan sizes available:

19"
18.5"
18"
17.5"
17"
....

So I ordered up a 17.5" inch fan from the 1970s. I will replace the 19" inch fan with the new one.
I needed about 1/4" less fan, so 1.5" should be good enough to allow for a hose/clamp.
The shroud might need adjustment for this. We shall see in a few days............

Here is a pic looking forward, and how low the fan blade is from the radiator top:

IMG_20141030_095918_139.jpg


And here is a shot from the front looking UNDER the radiator, where the fan hangs down:

IMG_20141030_094811_070.jpg


I also checked the clearances for the Continental VII fan I bought some time ago - THAT is a NO-GO. 5.5" deep and I only have 3-1/4" between rad and the nut tips of the WP pulley. So time to sell that fan on ebay. No good to me.

At the same time I am going to "play/research" the electric fan option, but do so later. I want to verify operations for myself. Also I can have the shroud fab'd later, as we are going into fall/winter here.

Another shot looking down to the 3/4" gap:

IMG_20141030_095008_850.jpg


dougbert
 
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