Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much?

[norsk]

It rained from last saturday to yesterday (Wed). Last friday I put a frame under the tarp on the rig to keep the rain out
Utah got 1.5 to 2 inches of rain during that time.

Here is my new "hut" to protect rig and me from water:

Installed the driver's side exhaust manifold

Used a copper sided gasket

Here one can see how close the exhaust is to the steering shaft:

Another:

 

[norsk]

I will be re-installing the steering shaft heat shield, but I think I need to protect the PS pump, line, and steering shaft from heat in some additional manner:

I read that putting header wrap on the manifold can damage it because it can't breathe properly on its outside surface - it over heats. Maybe wrap the steering heat shield?

maybe: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/32040/10002/-1?parentProductId=1330584
and attach a rectangle shield:

OR just encase the steering shaft with this (3 inch by 3 ft):
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/a...eat-shield-sleeving/thermaflect-sleeve-velcro
$49 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsp-274300

I wonder how it would hold up with the turning of the steering shaft, over time?

John, can I get you to take a pic of your driver's side exhaust and PS pump and steering shaft? Or others with a Ranger installed? thanks

dougbert

 

[JohninFla]

Doug if you are worried about how close it is to the exhaust, you could wrap the exhaust near the steering boot with header tape.

John

 

[JohninFla]

Yup I will take some pics when the sun comes up out here

John

 

[Jokenring]

Doug,

With the ram horns and the stock steering heat shield you should be fine. I wouldn't worry about it. I have the same set up and have no issues there. Do yourself a favor if you haven't already and get ceramic plug boots and the fiberglass plug insulators. I burned up two sets of wires before switching over. The second set had the insulators on too. Boots 3, 5, 4, and 6 get mighty hot.

 

[norsk]

Doug,

With the ram horns and the stock steering heat shield you should be fine. I wouldn't worry about it. I have the same set up and have no issues there. Do yourself a favor if you haven't already and get ceramic plug boots and the fiberglass plug insulators. I burned up two sets of wires before switching over. The second set had the insulators on too. Boots 3, 5, 4, and 6 get mighty hot.

I have the fiberglass plug covers for all 8 in the parts bin. I will put on the stock shield tomorrow and see what it looks like.
thx for input

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Doug if you are worried about how close it is to the exhaust, you could wrap the exhaust near the steering boot with header tape.

John

I think I will do that for a short distance on the manifold. Here are pics of the steering heat shield installed. Just a small gap between it and the manifold:

There IS a gap, but not much.

Below is the clutch slave installed on the AA bracket. I did need to get a 2.5 inch 3/8x16 bolt due to the spacer/washer for the lower bolt. For the push rod, I used a 3/8x16 threaded rod, measured and cut. Ground the tip that goes into the hydraulic piston into a cone shape so it fits much better and put a touch of grease on the tip.
Put a lock nut on the rod, then the AA "wedge" spacer. Doesn't look too bad.

I can see that it might be difficult to bleed because the bleeder is on the "down" side of the unit, w/o removing the slave. Will play with that.

Totally pulled the clutch master to slave hydraulic line. I am going to use a new line and bend it through the 1st mount only and then down within range of the flex line

John, did you just leave the hard line to flex line joint hanging in the air?

UPDATE: Pic of hardline and flex line connected. I found an old axle with a bolted mount point for the hard line, and bolted to the frame:

I have ordered some thermal protective sleeve I am going to put on that flex line
thx

dougbert

 

[JohninFla]

Doug

I took the slave off and flipped it to bleed. Went way quicker!

Yes, my hard line is hanging there like in the pics I sent. No issues to date, but I should anchor it better.

Attached find my exhaust manifold to steering clearance. I have a different manifold, it gives 2 inches at the closest point.

That slave mounting looks perfect, the rod is almost straight. Did you have to grind on the AA bracket where it meets the bell housing? Mine hit the casting and I had to remove material to get it to sit flat like yours is.

John

 

[JohninFla]

PS I put an acorn nut on the threaded rod so it was curved to match the inside of the slave cylinder.

PPS what is going on with that freeze plug near the oil filter?

 

[norsk]

Doug

I took the slave off and flipped it to bleed. Went way quicker!

Yes, my hard line is hanging there like in the pics I sent. No issues to date, but I should anchor it better.

Attached find my exhaust manifold to steering clearance. I have a different manifold, it gives 2 inches at the closest point.

That slave mounting looks perfect, the rod is almost straight. Did you have to grind on the AA bracket where it meets the bell housing? Mine hit the casting and I had to remove material to get it to sit flat like yours is.

JohnView attachment 949217

thanks for the pics and info.

No grinding on the AA bracket needed. Seemed the lower bolt's spacer wasn't long enough, but it worked

dougbert

 

[norsk]

PS I put an acorn nut on the threaded rod so it was curved to match the inside of the slave cylinder.

PPS what is going on with that freeze plug near the oil filter?

Ah, that is why I ground the threaded rod down to match the OEM rod in shape. Acorn seems a better idea, but will leave it now.

That is a block heater installed in the freeze plug - gets below zero here.

 

[Elbert]

how does that clutch slave bracket mount to the engine? one or two bolt holes used where the bell housing mates to the engine?

 

[JohninFla]

Elbert - exactly as you thought, I have the same bracket.

Doug - cold? I remember that stuff. I had that kind of heater in my 1964 Ford when I lived up in Saratoga springs.

Keep going you are on the downhill side of it now!

 

[Elbert]

is that clutch slave setup going to cause issues with exhaust clearance?

 

[JohninFla]

Elbert - its far back and Doug's exhaust will come straight down between #3 and #5 cylinder.

 

[norsk]

Elbert - its far back and Doug's exhaust will come straight down between #3 and #5 cylinder.

Here is good shot to show the distance between the down exhaust and the oil filter and the slave cylinder

View attachment 948847

 

[JohninFla]

Doug - I really am going to shamelessly copy your exhaust. Searching for the rams head manifolds online now

Looking great!!!

 

[norsk]

Doug - I really am going to shamelessly copy your exhaust. Searching for the rams head manifolds online now

Looking great!!!

I have to admit that the shiny headers took my heart over the somewhat ugly ram horns and I bought the headers.
Then my education and tutorial OCD took over. I should have done the RAM Horn type to start with. Oh well, part of the education.

I did find that there are the 2" (actually 1.9 inch) early models and the later 2.5 inch for higher flow.
Mine are actually the 2" model.

I did go to a local muffler shop and got some more education on these puppies. I bought from him, 2 cast iron extensions (in the corvette the driver's side had these extensions while the passenger side had the exhaust butterfly). I have 2 driver's side and therefore needed the second extension.

The muffler guy explained that the manifold and the extension go together w/o a gasket - need to be clean face and level - and will seal fine. The bottom of the extension has a chambered edge where the "donut" gasket fits. He fab'd me a pipe extension and a triangle plate to go over the 3 bolts. That this configuration worked very well, did NOT leak like a header nor like plain steel to cast iron would eventually leak - because steel and cast iron heat up/cool down differently, etc. That is why I have what I have. I see I need to take a pic of the extension and the butt end he made for me.

The Ram Horn manifolds have now grown on me and I like them.

here is a link of used 1.9" manifolds forsale today on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-RAMS-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35daa3ced4&vxp=mtr

for $85 w/free shipping. It does have the alternator extension used back in the day, but that can be cut off.

I used grade 8 bolts and flat grade 8 washer to hold the manifold - I over engineer - and used copper anti-seize lube

here is a pic of an another original pair forsale on ebay as well (driver's side on top/bufferfly passenger side on the bottom):

notice bufferfly on the one on the lower one.

I don't use a bufferfly since my intake manifold and heads do not have the exhaust crossover passage

Here is an aftermarket http://www.ebay.com/itm/371145167821?item=371145167821&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

but I don't know if 2" or 2.5" - UPDATE: Seller responded: 2"

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Back in late 2012, when I parked the rig at "The Barn" lot and began pulling the 2F, I taped, marked/labeled and bagged the wiring that comes from the firewall.
Labeled each wire and/or set of wires so that I could re-assemble/re-wire with ease - well, the best laid plans of mice and men.

I took the bags off the looms this morning and came to find that half of the labels have faded or washed out. WHAT? Seems I did not use a good enough labels for the moisture in the air, which attacked my labels. Bleed, label dissolved, etc,

Some I can still read, so that is good. But will have to research and compare to other part rigs to ID the rest.

With the SBC now going in, many leads that deal with smog are now useless so I have to separate the good wires from the old useless one.
I did have several relays for the low-beams, hi-beams, air-pump, fog lights, roof lights, etc.

I have ID'd the following lines:

OEM Engine Temp
OEM Engine Oil pressure
4x4 light
Reverse light
Starter
The 3 Head light lines - which mate to my own wiring harness to the actual lights

Lines I need to determine:

Ignition + and -
AC
Tachometer
Parking lights
Wiper
Washer pump
ACC Input line

Non-OEM lines:

switch for fog lights
switch for roof lights
Locker AIR pump
O2 meter

New lines I need to add:

Electric choke
Head temperature senders


ANY I am missing?

Car building is fun!!!

Also, this morning I installed the last brake hard line over front axle. Time to bleed em all!

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Worked on wiring this morning (nice and 65 degrees)

Mounted the new coil on the firewall (MSD Blaster 2)
Took off the tape on the passenger side wiring harness.

ID'd the ignition, TACH, wiper motor, washer, headlights, EVAP control, parking lights, REVERSE, 4x4 and STARTER leads.

(Been looking at the wiring diagram for 1985, from Chassis doc)

Here are the (starting at the top and going clockwise):

Loads:
---headlight feed lines (3 wires),
---alternator control (red loom),
---horn/parking lights/headlight washer (3 oclock),

Power Input to system:
------(white) main power line to electrical system mains,
------(black) power to IGN switch,
------(red) power to HEAD LIGHT relay and HORNs,

Load:
---and finally the AC on the bottom (green).

Here are 3 other connectors:

white circular -> washer pump
brown (2 wire) -> Unknown - other cruisers have that just hanging not connected (anyone know what that does???)
green -> EVAP control line - might put in an EVAP and use that in the future

Draped on the valve cover:

black cap -> Oil pressure wire to OEM sending unit
green connector -> TACH line

Switched IGNITION wire??? (maybe GROUND - comes from ST2 on IGN switch).

This is an interesting setup. The IGN wire has a connector to connect to the OEM ignitor/coil but also has a lead that goes to the small BLACK condenser with the fork (which is bolted to the coil bracket). The other lead of the small BLACK condenser is a ground wire.

QUESTIONS:
From the wiring diagram, there are the two wires going to the COIL

IG (BY) (Is this the HOT IGN wire)
ST2 (Br) has condenser on end - comes from IGN switch (Is this a switched ground?)

Two wires from the coil to the dizzy, one is the HIGH Voltage line, and there is a line that goes to a smaller wire on the dizzy, and that is connected to the TACH. mmmm, can't find that wire from the firewall.

Finally the STARTER lead middle top of pic, the 4x4 Light connector and the REVERSE connector, all lying on the frame (yeah the reverse is missing its outer shell for the connector)

Going to re-route wires to each of their destinations (most didn't move, but some did), re-wrap with vinyl tape, and put new loom on them. 12v will get RED loom. Others BLACK. This side wasn't so bad, but I did have a couple of other FJ60s I went and examined in depth.