Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much?

[dbleon]

.I have been eying a FJ-40 as a next project

WHOA WHOA WHOA... one thing at a time!!

Now get back in that tent!

 

[norsk]

no worries dbleon, will finish the 60 first

BACK TO THE ENGINE EVENT

spent today on the engine in a nice warm man-cave while outside it was 10 degrees.

My young friend, Ted, came over and we watch the "How to Degree a CAM" by Comp Cams, and then we verified my Centerline is at 106.5 degrees, where it is suppose to be at 107 degrees. Within tolerance of +/- 1 degree. CAM is now done.

After he left, I cleaned up the right bank and head (dirt and grease), mounted the MLS Fel-Pro head gasket and mounted the head I have and tightened snug, but not tight.

And then proceeded to measure the size of push rod I need.

See videos at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnS46ahJVqI
and at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw5PWiOwXhI

for some background of the technique.

Related is the setting of the lifter "pre-load". I found the following videos instructional:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpkrNouFauA (He indicated 1/4 turn for preload - he mentions less turns, generates more power)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2Rny7FBK6M (He indicated 1/2 turn for preload)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piifbQtCzno (He indicated 1 full turn for preloading the lifter for roller cam/lifter, which I have)


I used the Comp Cams adjustable pushrod checker, 7702 link at http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP+Cams/249/7702-1/10002/-1
which starts off at 6.800 inches and can reach to 7.800 inches fully extended.

I started at 6.900 (which is two full turn outward - each turn is .050 inches). And reinserted the rod, put the ink of the pen on the end of the value stem, and put the rocker on. Proceeded to turn the motor so the valve opened 8 times.
I did this 5 more times (two more turns each time) until the ink marks on the valve stem were centered as per the video. This happened at 12 turns outward or 0.600 inches.

5 * 8 * 2 = sore arm.

So my pushrods should be 6.800 inches plus 12 turns each at .050 inches or .600 inches, totally 6.800 + 0.600 = 7.400 inches for the push rods on my rig.

http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP+Cams/249/7955-16/10002/-1 for price of $125 via jegs for 7.400 length rods.

Anybody have comments on a beefer rod? .104 diameter vers the .080 above?
http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP+Cams/249/8406-16/10002/-1 for $180. Says ideal for serious street performance/race operations.
I always like "STRONGER" when I do things, especially for 4x4 work.

Thoughts from anyone? Are my steps somewhat correct here?

Here are a couple of pics of the head and the pushrod length checker installed.
All the lifters in their places.

NOTICE: The Buddy Heater to the left of the engine. Nice and warm after heating the man-cave for 2 hours.
REQUEST: What color should I paint my heads? I was thinking SHINY BLACK. I don't want them Orange, some contrast (within reason - not quite Trollhole's tuty-fruiti look). Will paint the water pump as well, maybe WHITE or something else.............mmmm

dougbert

 

[JohninFla]

Hey Doug

Does this help with your fuel line question? Or you need more of the lines on the frame?

John

 

[norsk]

that does great! thanks john

dougbert

 

[ntsqd]

I paint almost everything machine tool gray, specifically Krylon Universal Gray, so I'm probably not the one to ask!

 

[norsk]

duplicate

 

[norsk]

I paint almost everything machine tool gray, specifically Krylon Universal Gray, so I'm probably not the one to ask!

NO you are not! ROFLOL


As for the fuel line/tube of which I spoke earlier, I just took it off (and it is rusty) and its picture is below. It is connected between the vapor draw line (the rubber line) that goes to the canister near the engine and the vapor separator in the rear (near my foot, which is in the pic for scale). The long piece goes from the PS to the DS and then back again, and the short parts goes up to the separator.

Again, very rusty. I will see if it will clean up without damage. If so, I will paint it and reinstall. Maybe paint it yellow, since it lives where the sun don't shine.


Pics of the skid plate, the tranny mount, spare tire holder and the radiator cross member, and the front wheel wells (not the best picture).
Last pic is the radiator support bulkhead finished.

Look much better than before (the blaster cleaned them up)
painted job was brushed on, but that is okay, as these are under the truck for the most part.

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Yesterday 3 of my sons came over for some "hang time with dad", which we haven't had for some time. They came to help on the truck (remove the doors) and play some video games.

Removing the doors happened very fast and as I was examining the doors for the work that needs to be done on them, I also looked at the weather stripping. 28 year ago stuff and pondered if there was a restoration product that could help them out. Also pondered what beno posted that the rear hatch and tail gate's weather stripping went to NLA status. I wondered if the door stripping was NLA also.

So did some web searches this morning and came up with NAPA product Sil-Glyde Rubber Restoration.

Watch the youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=pFdq1juOO7I


Going to try it out.

ALSO: the little "T" stripping snaps that hold the strips on to the doors, Does anyone know a source for those?
UPDATE: found some Ts at ClipsAndFasteners.com Code: A20443 7867-0C010

thx

short movie of my son's comments on the condition of the PS rear quarter panel. Yeah, it is the worst of the body,
but fixable

https://db.tt/CqexTaTH


pic of 3 of my sons and I. I haven't had the tarps off the rig for awhile in sunlight. Boy, it needs a paint job


dougbert

 

[norsk]

Began working on the doors, starting with the PS front

I need new window regulators, at least for the front and found http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/198...regulator.html

I went ahead and ordered one for the front right (PS) as I am prepping that door for painting first. Then will do the DS front door.

Those 2 doors and the rear hatch (down to metal) and the rear tailgate will be my first Monstaliner paint targets. I have a quart of the paint and don't know how far it will go, so I want enough areas to paint to consume the quart before the mixed paint and catylst expire. That stuff is not cheap.


So in the process I want to refresh the various subsystems in the doors in the process.
I have applied Sil-Glyde on the window channels and other rubber parts. Will put in white grease, etc, etc

The only rust on the doors is along the bottom seam. I don't want to tear anything apart (ie cut metal) nor do any welding at this point. Sooooooooo, I have opened the bottom seal a bit, scratched out the rust particles, put Metal Blaster on it and will put Rust Bullet down along the entire bottom seam inside and out.

Before the 1st coat dries I will compress the seam back together, let dry, then apply 2nd coat followed by the Shell black 3rd coat. The bottom 4 inches of the door will have Rust Bullet on it, outside and in. It might also provide some sound deadening. Will also be installing Cruiser-C-R-A-P inside the door as I still have some of that left.

The door might rot later (much later than if I do nothing), but I see how easy it is to work on these doors. It used to be a black box to me. I can fix doors later.

Window comes out nice, regulator comes out easy, Metal Blasted the rust spots (converter) and it will work nicely for me.


It is a great job to do in the basement when it is 0 degress F outside

pics 1 and 2
lower part of the PS front door with 1st coat of rust bullet.
That lower section will be black, and the upper will have Monstaliner on it on the inside, with ABS panel installed.
As I mentioned, the rust is ONLY along the bottom seam. No rust anywhere else on the door.

This vehicle is not intended to be a show car nor even a pretty one, but one that can take abuse in the rocks of utah and elsewhere as well as keep the Rust Clap at bay.

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Bottom of door sealed up

Pics of the PS front door with black paint on the lower part to seal it all up.

Will finish a straight line for the black later when doing final.
Other doors will be similar and won't need to demo those as this will suffice.

Pic 1 and 2, across the bottom
pic 3 small look inside the door, looking down

bad light, it looks better in reality.

dougbert

 

[norsk]

I had stripped my tail hatch some time ago, and am now preparing it (and the tailgate) for applying Monstaliner.

The problem I ran into is how to clean out INSIDE the hatch, with all its small corners, metal braces AND areas not available for access.

I believe on the top cross brace and the verticals I will use the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Possibly the corners of the hatch as well

Another item is what to use on the outer seals all the way around the hatch?

I can use seam sealer or a couple of coats of the Rust Bullet paint on seams.

Oh the questions for a painting noobie

UPDATE: Hatch is much better now inside, spent some time cleaning the inside up with brushes and brake cleaner.

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Post info and pictures on the Dorman window regulator I got at this thread/post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=9007990&postcount=7

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Some Cleanser!

Zep Fast 505 Industrial Clenser and Degreaser, buy at Home Depot in the cleaning material area. I have used it under the hood and on the firewall, and other small locations, but today some big time washing.

Spent 2 hours cleaning under the body from the axle back to the rear door. Gas tank is off, so I used Zep instead of grinding and a stiff bristle brush. Spray on, brush around, repeat

It wasn't until I used a garden sprayer with hot water to rinse it off, that I could see just how clean it was. A couple of areas needed another application but then the dirt and the grease just washed away. Granted in the back it was not as greasy as above the Tranny and TC. I also still have about a 2 foot section from the rear u=joint forward that needs cleaning (and it is very hard to get the wire brush in there), but I am almost done on cleaning the underbody.

Forgot to take my phone, so pics will come later. It cleaned up real good.

Also took the gas tank to the car wash, used Zep 505 on it and really cleaned off the dirt. Letting it dry now and will put some metal blaster on couple of rusty spots, then paint it with a coat of Rust Bullet Shell Black, to top coat it for good measure.

pics of painted gas tank
pics of the top of the level sensor and fuel pickup: Tank is the OEM replacement, but this two plates have to be original.
I will clean them up and paint them. New screws are coming, along with new gaskets

both now painted - should last longer now


dougbert

 

[norsk]

spent several hours under the parachute painting the underbody beneath the cargo area - above the gas tank.

first coat of Rust Bullet base with one more coat to go, then will be covered with the Shell Black.

20 degrees outside, but the propane heater has it in the 60s in there and the respirator made breathing just fine.

It is really starting to look nice under the rig: derusted, cleaned and painted.
Will replace all those rubber hoses prior to installing the tank.
Thought to cover the rear light wires in the back with the convoluted wire sleeve material. It is currently taped,
but more covering would be good.

Also enhanced the ground point back there by cleaning the threads, the bolt, the eye hook and the metal contact shoulder.
I will also fix a 2nd cheap ground point (seen in the 2nd pic) for the trailer connection which is just a screw tying a U hook into the floor of the cargo area (WTF?) by moving it to the central factory one in the rear.

Question: After setting the ground point properly and cleanly, would putting a glob of silicone over the ground point be okay,
in order to protect it from getting all rusty again? If not, any other ideas of protection? (I WANT a great ground point back there
for lights, trailer and HAM radio.

dougbert

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You're right, it's starting to look great! Keep up the good work.

 

[JohninFla]

Doug, all you'll need at the end of this is a spray can of "new car smell"!!!

Looks great!

 

[norsk]

Doug, all you'll need at the end of this is a spray can of "new car smell"!!!

Looks great!

Hey, that's the ticket! Yeah, I need one of those!

I added to what I did above, namely improving the ground point. My question is: Would silicone glob over the ground point work to protect it? I want that ground point to live long and prosper amidst all the crud that gets thrown under there.

dougbert

 

[JohninFla]

Doug, if you want to keep the ground point good, why not run the wire through a hole with a grommet and ground it inside the cabin? I think silicone might end up coming off after a while, hot - cold cycles flexing the steel.

 

[ntsqd]

I've used copper based anti-seize on grounding bolts and other electrical connectors at times. Eventually it goes away, but as an example the cb antenna boss on the top of my Mini's front bumper has had an anti-seized bolt screwed down tight in it for ~2 years. Two weekends ago I finally had cause to put an antenna in it and the anti-seize was still there.

If you're going to smear something over the top I would use dielectric grease. It is silicone based and impervious to water. It is a non-conductor (obviously) so its use is mostly to keep oxidizing agents at bay, not to promote conductivity.
I guess that you could use both if you're careful.

 

[norsk]

Pics of under cargo area painted with the last coat of Shell Black

Pic 1 of EVAP hose area
Pic 2 of OEM ground point
Pic 3 of DS Rear quarter
Pic 4 of next section to paint
Pic 5 of propane header near DS front tire and last area to paint under DS seats

frame is just dirty from the underbody cleaning and will be washed off

dougb ert