Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)

[norsk]

With all the painting I have been careful to NOT fill thread nut holes with paint, but some paint still get into the threads. That and the fact of rust in the threads, I purchased some Metric thread CHASERS (not cutters) and have used them to clean up any threads I need to use in re-assembly of parts.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AEX8DW/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

is where I ordered the set.

They work great and the 6 sided heads fit my metric sockets just fine. The threads come out very crisp and cleaned up.

I had broken one of the rear gas tank rear bolts. After drilling it out, I used the appropriate chaser and the threads are great

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Okay..........


MILESTONE REACHED

Finished painting Rust Bullet as an undercoat on the entire underbody today. Was 55 degrees, and the snow was melting and pooling under my rig, but was able to stay above the water.

Anyway, that task is complete.

Left to do:

clean and paint axles
DS nested C channel removal
paint firewall

Feels good!

dougbert

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Where are the pics!?

 

[norsk]

Where are the pics!?

it was dark, wet and cold, didn't want to get back under there tonite, will come later on monday after I do the rear axle.
I have cleaned most of the rear axle with the PEP 705, bit more to do, then will prep with metal blaster and
prime with zero rust and cover with the rust bullet Shell Black

dougbert

 

[SNLC]

That Rust Bullet Blackshell gasses off a lot. Hard to tell from your pictures, you have any issues with bubbles using it?

Cheers

 

[norsk]

That Rust Bullet Blackshell gasses off a lot. Hard to tell from your pictures, you have any issues with bubbles using it?

Cheers

the pictures are not great, but I think the site reduces the image sizes, since the pics look better on the computer than after I up load them. Still old under coating I painted over, so the surface is rough in places.

yeah in some areas there are some bubbles, but not concerned too much with appearance under the rig. Though I don't know what it means for its durability.

My front wheel wells did well when I did them last sept.

 

[SNLC]

the pictures are not great, but I think the site reduces the image sizes, since the pics look better on the computer than after I up load them. Still old under coating I painted over, so the surface is rough in places.

yeah in some areas there are some bubbles, but not concerned too much with appearance under the rig. Though I don't know what it means for its durability.

My front wheel wells did well when I did them last sept.

Honestly, I don't think the bubbles are a good thing. I feel it will chip a lot easier in the areas with bubbles, even micro ones. It may even peel or lift off there in time. I have had issues with that myself.

I have used RB a few times. I automotive stuff (silver) is way easier to work with, less gassing off and just get a better result with less effort. The Blackshell I like a lot but it is harder to work with and get good results. I am going to try spraying it next time in a more controlled environment, ie paint booth. The automotive is super hard stuff, I was unable to chip it with a hammer when some over spill had cured on some wood. I think with the right application of Blackshell on top of that it is a super good coating and will resist rock chips big time. The automotive is also supposed to encapsulate the rust which is a go if it really works.

Cheers

 

[norsk]

thanks for the info

went out this afternoon to take some pictures and capture the last part I did, but as I approached the rig, my Cavalier sunk in the mud. I hadn't had problems last week, but I could not get out.

I ask Tom for help and he winched me out. As I was preparing to take the pics, I found that my phone was NOT in my pocket. After some searching and calling it, we found it in the mud. argh!

I have it drying w/o the battery and tomorrow will see what its condition is. It is 5 years agp. A Droid 2 - time to get a new one.

So, no pics yet.

But I was able to brush down the rear axle a bit until the brush was gone. So another day, another brush and more brushing before I paint it.

dougbert

 

[SNLC]

FYI, you can put your phone in a bag of rice to help it dry out. Take the battery out of it and put it in a bag of rice and see what happens!

Cheers

 

[norsk]

FYI, you can put your phone in a bag of rice to help it dry out. Take the battery out of it and put it in a bag of rice and see what happens!

Cheers

hey thanks great thoughts,

What I did was take out the battery, wipe down what I could, then then place in front of one of the furnace outlets which is the coolest one in the house. Left it open (has a slide out KB) and turned it every few hours.

This morning put battery in, and it powered up, and had SERVICE.

I know that with whatever water/dirt in it, it has only a short life span left, but geezzzzz, I determine it is over 6 years old now. Too cheap up to now to get an upgrade

dougbert

 

[ntsqd]

Helps to nuke the rice in short bursts until it quits steaming. You don't want to cook it, just dry it out so that's why the short bursts.

 

[norsk]

as can be seen below, my phone still takes pictures.
In any event, I have ordered a free upgrade to a Droid RAZER M
to replace my current Droid 2 - 2 days

The pic is a 30mm floor pan rubber plug/grommet from under the 60. There are several of them down there and since most are pretty bad, I want to replace them BUT I have been searching all day and cannot find 30mm such plugs.

Does anyone know of a source for these? Oreillys and Autozone don't have them.

I used a micrometer to measure the inner ring to come up with 30mm.

A toyota part number would be great, but I have no idea how to look that up.

any assistance would be appreciated

thx

dougbert

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Doughbert,

Toyota does not make those body plugs anymore. My local dealer told me that they couldn't get them. I've been searching for an appropriate replacement since we did my body swap.

 

[norsk]

Doughbert,

Toyota does not make those body plugs anymore. My local dealer told me that they couldn't get them. I've been searching for an appropriate replacement since we did my body swap.

thanks for that info, which is what I expected BUT I might have found a source from a NISSAN aftermarket vendor

https://www.zcarsource.com/floor-pan-grommet-30mm-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new_8_56672_63823.html

indicates a plug that fits in a 30mm hole, I ordered 12 with a total of $25 (including SH) and will report back after I get them.

dougbert

 

[GLTHFJ60]

thanks for that info, which is what I expected BUT I might have found a source from a NISSAN aftermarket vendor

https://www.zcarsource.com/floor-pan-grommet-30mm-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new_8_56672_63823.html

indicates a plug that fits in a 30mm hole, I will order some and report back

dougbert

Oh hell yeah!! Let me know if those work well, since I'll order some too!

 

[norsk]

new camera is working, lets see if I can post pics of the underbody


pic 3 and 4 is looking back to under cargo area, where gas tank will go.

Yellow line is the EVAP loop tube - like I said, needed some color where the Sun
doesn't shine.

pic 5 is looking up into cabin thru shifter hole

Got that EVAP line in, and new EVAP hoses installed along with new fill tube hose.
Thus starts the reassembly process - FINALLY

dougbert

 

[norsk]

ok, last 2 pics

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That looks awesome man, good work

 

[norsk]

That looks awesome man, good work

thanks

let's hope it holds up well. At least is will be better than what was there.

Now working on the last C channel removal and cleaning the rear axle for painting. Might do the brake overhaul while I am there too.

On the engine front, the order for the 2nd head goes out this coming week. Once that is in,, then both heads get
put on, lifters set with the rockers, intake manifold gets put on, valve covers go on, even got a free HEI distributor
yesterday from Jake (thanks dude) - that will get it going - headers on, carb on?, need the brackets for ALT, PS and AC though.

BTW, Post #1 is where I modify current status of the build and coming plans. These posts are exactly what happens and pics.

Onward.........

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Okay just ordered 2nd Vortec head from Jegs and when that gets here the engine gets assembled - seriously. I have the major parts for the engine (not clutch parts yet) but I can put the motor together.

One item that is at a decision point is whether to go mechanical (many advise that) or go electric fan.

I am concerned about the distance between the Long Water pump I have and the radiator and if the Chev fan and clutch will fit.

below is a pic from JohninFla on his rig with the Ranger on this space. He has a serpentine belt system while I will be classic V belt system.

On my post #1 are links to the two options and also below:


FAN OPTIONS

Mechanical - BUT I don't know if there will be room after Ranger is installed

$113: fan clutch http://nostalgicac.com/gm-fan-clutch.html
$90: Seven bladed fan #790-2030 http://nostalgicac.com/gm-fan-blade-18-inch-steel.html

Electric

$114: Electric fan controller http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd852.htm See Better price on EBAY
$101: Contour FAN http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-620-104.../dp/B000C17G9K
(FAN Install threads: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...&postcount=103
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...postcount=1426
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...9&postcount=65)
$17: Pelican case for FAN Controller http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1060-M.../dp/B001OF5TII

In the pic is the distance from the fuel pump (as a point of reference) to the radiator, John measures 11". I need to determine what space I will have. Will probably wait for final until AFTER engine is in the rig, but I am thinking about it now.

dougbert