Double triangulated rear 80
- Thread starter nukegoat
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
17 posts in 8 years and you hit us with this, yeah gonna need a lot more pics
X2 besides it have totally " bolt on " all over it ..
Yay
You could do it totally bolt on. It was at the beginning but as I was very happy it hit I had this burned on the axle
Does anybody have an updated picture of the geometry for this triangulated 4 link? I’m nerding out while bored at work
You can’t because of the gas tank. You can run a 3-link but no real value.
EWheeler
GOLD Star
@ThreeEyedBandit has a setup similar to what is posted by a couple different members in this thread with the wishbone upper.
He shared a couple photos here:
Why arent people 3 linking the rear of built 80’s?
Lots of “long travel” rear 3 link builds all over the net for the 4 runners and GX470, which appear to make them pretty well rounded for crawling travel and smoothing out the ride for higher speed washboard roads (mostly a function of upgrading to a better shock package). I’ve searched the 80...
forum.ih8mud.com
edit: or were you asking for the missing "after" geometry photo on post #1?
This is a thread about a double triangulated 4 link
I was playing with numbers today and was looking for a the “after” geometry photo@ThreeEyedBandit has a setup similar to what is posted by a couple different members in this thread with the wishbone upper.
He shared a couple photos here:
Why arent people 3 linking the rear of built 80’s?
Lots of “long travel” rear 3 link builds all over the net for the 4 runners and GX470, which appear to make them pretty well rounded for crawling travel and smoothing out the ride for higher speed washboard roads (mostly a function of upgrading to a better shock package). I’ve searched the 80...
edit: or were you asking for the missing "after" geometry photo on post #1?
Ya...so he 3-linked it with a wishbone and extended his lowers.@ThreeEyedBandit has a setup similar to what is posted by a couple different members in this thread with the wishbone upper.
He shared a couple photos here:
Why arent people 3 linking the rear of built 80’s?
Lots of “long travel” rear 3 link builds all over the net for the 4 runners and GX470, which appear to make them pretty well rounded for crawling travel and smoothing out the ride for higher speed washboard roads (mostly a function of upgrading to a better shock package). I’ve searched the 80...
edit: or were you asking for the missing "after" geometry photo on post #1?
His geometry is so ****ed....
It was until OP realized you cant run a triangulated 4-link...unless you want to tri-the lowers below the diff...
Have you actually looked under your cruiser?
EWheeler
GOLD Star
What does your geometry look like?
For the cruiser? Run of the mill numbers based on 3" lift and 35" tires. for my other two rigs than run dual and single triangulated I can post those but they arent an 80. His upper links should be close to 80% of the link of the lowers.
Last edited:
EWheeler
GOLD Star
Not finding the image, maybe he removed it on purpose? Some more photos of the setup here....
Builds - Marshmallow's build thread
OK, disclaimer: I am doing this for the sake of documenting my trip down fiscal irresponsibility lane for those that have asked. I don't really have forensic evidence of everything I've done, so this is the chronological photo journal for anyone who's interested and I'll annotate it to the best...
forum.ih8mud.com
Yes but it function the same as a double triangulated 4 link.
Could you explain to me how his geometry is bad? Did you plot it?
No I’ve never looked under my Land Cruiser.
EWheeler
GOLD Star
So this is on the YJ, not the 80 series? Or these numbers are for a system built on an 80 series?
Heeeyyyy nice it’s the good calculator
They dont function the same, about the only function thats the same is it can eliminate the trackbar.
I can't plot his perfectly without spending some time studying his pictures and getting them perfectly lined up (which I dont really have a desire to do)
However, the key thing is he extended his lowers but used the factory crossmember for the uppers. Take a look at my LJ suspension geometry, the one on the left is the custome triangulated suspension I built, the one on the right is if I left the factory upper control arms in the same position, even if I triangulated them, look at the antisquat numbers alone, then imagine what his pinion angle change is during the suspension cycle. Rule of thumb is upper links are 80% of the length of the lowers.
That screenshot was of the 80. I have a YJ and an LJ. I pulled the 80 in the garage to double check my numbers since I didnt spend a lot of time on it.
EWheeler
GOLD Star
Stock 80? Sorry, just trying to understand what you are trying to communicate.
How do they not function the same?
And I did a rough plot of the rampt custom geometry for their “long arm” kit and messed with it and got the squat to around 80% and the roll axis to between 0 and 2 degrees at ride height depending on the triangulation of the lowers at the frame. The pinion angle change over 12” sucks, that’s for sure, but it also sucks now and I don’t find myself blowing through u joints. Messing with 30” lowers and 40” lowers really only made the pinion angle worse at full bump and it was only by a degree or two. Idk if it’s really enough to worry about. Maybe it is idk.
I really dislike the rules of thumb because they’re all relative and often misleading.
