Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions

[bryson]

5* sounds like a lot to me still, but... I'm not Tom Woods. Have you driven around with CDL locked and front driveshaft removed yet? That's an easy way to tell if it is your angles causing the noises.

Spindle bushings can cause similar noises, so they may be worth investigating.

 

[smittycrusher]

Does anyone have a link for new joints for a taco driveshaft? Im not really sure what I need to replace before brining it to a shop to be shortened and if anyone has links or part numbers that would be great!

Looks like it uses the same as the 80’s front drive shaft - OEM 04371-60070 & Matsuba is UJ35031

 

[TNOverlander]

Great thread! Just wondering what the problem is with a short wheelbase (standard cab) 4x4 or prerunner. I realize they won't be the 2 piece shaft, but looking at the pics that come up when I search them, they do have the DC joint but just with one long shaft. I'm guessing the T-case flange joint isn't a match, but just wondering if anyone knows for sure (mainly cause that seems to be all that's close by to me right now).

 

[pawnthatdude]

Anyone have experience with using the Delta radius arms requiring they get a DC drive shaft? I've got a 2.5" OME heavy lift, and I am about to put the 2" radius arms on. Hoping such a mild lift won't require it.

 

[LandLocked93]

If it's not fuses, it's phases. Most everything else is user error. - TLC Almanac, written by MUD.

 

[cowboyjack]

Anyone have experience with using the Delta radius arms requiring they get a DC drive shaft? I've got a 2.5" OME heavy lift, and I am about to put the 2" radius arms on. Hoping such a mild lift won't require it.

I had the OME 2.5” lift with just the OME correction bushings and didn’t need a DC shaft. Would think the Delta 2” arms would be even better.

 

[916rockcrusher]

Toyota’s goal with the 80s and most of their products is quality and longevity. Dana/spicer‘s goal is and always has been value engineering. Cut quality to boost profits.

Toyota = overbuilt, tight tolerances and superior metals who cares what it costs make it last. Let’s put a magnet on our diff drain plug that’s screwed into it‘s all steel welded housing so the internals last longer. And hey let’s weld a guard around it To keep it safe.

Spicer = what can we get away with without class action lawsuit? Let’s use cast garbage for our housings and carriers. Drain plug? This thing won’t last long enough to need a drain plug. The consumer will spin the spot welded tubes in their cheap cast housing and smoke the undersized pinion bearings way before it needs an oil change.

Anyone who‘s spent a substantial amount of time on hard core trails or has worked on different brandS, knows Toyota, Isuzu and Ford make far superior axel and driveline parts to Dana. Dana is cheap and plentiful. The only reason anyone uses Dana for crawlers.

 

[916rockcrusher]

II just finished break in on my new 5.29s and took my rig to the coast. 4 hours each way of bad vibes I didn’t notice before with stock 4.10s.

My rear slip at 385k miles is sloppy and is causing bad vibes especially coasting. I have 3.5“ J springs and I’m wondering if I should go DC or find a stock shaft In better shape To replace it. Loaded down with gear it didn’t vibrate in the past but unloaded on an empty tank that extra 1” would make it vibe. So I’m leaning towards DC. Thoughts? I built this rig for comfort on long distance excursions so vibes and noise are unwelcome. I have a solid driveline shop I use in Auburn, CA so I’m not worried about the modifications.

 

[landtank]

Could be a combination of the drive shaft and pinion angle. I always replace the rear when the slip yoke is worn like that with a new shaft from Toyota. If the vibs continue after that I correct the pinion angle with longer lower control arms.

 

[baldilocks]

II just finished break in on my new 5.29s and took my rig to the coast. 4 hours each way of bad vibes I didn’t notice before with stock 4.10s.

My rear slip at 385k miles is sloppy and is causing bad vibes especially coasting. I have 3.5“ J springs and I’m wondering if I should go DC or find a stock shaft In better shape To replace it. Loaded down with gear it didn’t vibrate in the past but unloaded on an empty tank that extra 1” would make it vibe. So I’m leaning towards DC. Thoughts? I built this rig for comfort on long distance excursions so vibes and noise are unwelcome. I have a solid driveline shop I use in Auburn, CA so I’m not worried about the modifications.

I would start by rebuilding the shaft you have to new specs and then go from there. The new driveline vibes are probably due to the higher rotational speed caused by the 5.29 gears.

I agree that Toyota U-joints are superior and the rear joints in an 80 are massive for the job they have to do. In fact, the bearing cap is 1/10” larger in diameter than a 1350.

I run DC shafts front and rear that use Spicer Life series 1310 joints at the double cardan end turning 37’s on trails like Rubicon and so far no problems. I’m not expecting them to last 200k miles but it seems the necessary strength is there.

 

[landtank]

Last rear shaft I bought was around 385.00. You start buying a slip yoke, u-joints , work to cut and weld then balance and your into the used shaft for the better part of what a new new one costs.

 

[916rockcrusher]

Could be a combination of the drive shaft and pinion angle. I always replace the rear when the slip yoke is worn like that with a new shaft from Toyota. If the vibs continue after that I correct the pinion angle with longer lower control arms.

Have you ever had a rig that wouldn’t stop vibrating after taking these two steps? I already was planning on building adjustable lower arms but I only want to spend the $$$ on a driveline once.

 

[916rockcrusher]

Last rear shaft I bought was around 385.00. You start buying a slip yoke, u-joints , work to cut and weld then balance and your into the used shaft for the better part of what a new new one costs.

I’m having a hard time finding a new stock rear for under $560 right now do you have a good source?

 

[baldilocks]

Have you ever had a rig that wouldn’t stop vibrating after taking these two steps? I already was planning on building adjustable lower arms but I only want to spend the $$$ on a driveline once.

With pinion pointed up directly at the T-case output flange, double cardan joints have always solved my driveline vibe issues. I used to live in Vacaville and the good people at Driveline of West Sacramento always did me right. The two guys that work the countr have a combined experience of more than 60 years.

 

[landtank]

Have you ever had a rig that wouldn’t stop vibrating after taking these two steps? I already was planning on building adjustable lower arms but I only want to spend the $$$ on a driveline once.

Nope not at your ride height. I’m not a fan of adjustable lower links especially if you wheel and might contact them. That’s due to the threaded section being weaker.
I’m not a fan of going with a DC shaft in the rear either especially if you carry various weight at times. The pinion angle tolerance is quite tight at +/- 1 degree. With the multi link in the rear the change in ride height from adding or subtracting weight directly influences that angle. I personally load up my truck with gear and supplies, drive hours to a destination, then unload everything for the event.
I’ll check around on the shaft. I get a discount from my local dealer and it has been a while so pricing might have changed.

 

[baldilocks]

Nope not at your ride height. I’m not a fan of adjustable lower links especially if you wheel and might contact them. That’s due to the threaded section being weaker.
I’m not a fan of going with a DC shaft in the rear either especially if you carry various weight at times. The pinion angle tolerance is quite tight at +/- 1 degree. With the multi link in the rear the change in ride height from adding or subtracting weight directly influences that angle. I personally load up my truck with gear and supplies, drive hours to a destination, then unload everything for the event.
I’ll check around on the shaft. I get a discount from my local dealer and it has been a while so pricing might have changed.

DC rear shaft and Metal Tech adjustable rear lower links here. I run light, I run heavy and beat the bottom side of my 80 as hard as anyone with nary a problem from my links or pinion angle.

 

[landtank]

DC rear shaft and Metal Tech adjustable rear lower links here. I run light, I run heavy and beat the bottom side of my 80 as hard as anyone with nary a problem from my links or pinion angle.

Congrats

 

[baldilocks]

Congrats

Thanks

 

[916rockcrusher]

I like to make my lowers out of 2” 250 wall DOM with 1 1/4” grade 8 heim thread at the top. The tubes always bend first and the threads usually are protected pretty well by the lock nut and larger diameter tubing. If it’s a concern could you make the top arms adjustable? I won’t buy aftermarket as the tubing is always so thin.

 

[916rockcrusher]

If you decide to build your own make sure nothing is threaded into the bungs while welding or the threads will fuse and it’s time to junk It and start over.