Door Lock Actuator Replacement (2 Viewers)

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#Deadmilenko Did The camry actuator with swapped lever work? I replaced my driver side door about 4 years ago with one of the cheap Chinese motors everyone posts about. It worked for 4 years, but then stopped working again. Since I superglued the clamshell back together, I can't get it apart to replace the motor a second time. I have the white lever out, and am hoping the cheap Camry actuator will work!

Haven't had the chance to put them in yet, its the wifes rig and doesn't see much drive time so there hasn't been any urgency lately, but I plan on tackling this hopefully this weekend, as I need to replace the Power Steering hoses and the valve cover gaskets too. But I got to buy those parts today
 
I'd really like to find non China made motors with collars. Anyone know of a source?
 
That's going to be a tough find. Mabuchi motors holds 70% market share on electric motors for automotive door locks/actuators. And most of their factories are in China.
 
Nah sorry been really busy with everything else and havent even been on the thread at all. Plan on putting them in hopefully this weekend. Will update then

Hoping to hear if this worked!
 
Does anyone have the part number for the white plastic cover on the passenger side? I snapped mine in two places getting it out.

upload_2018-9-30_21-36-20.jpeg
 
69725-60030 (make sure to verify based on VIN)
Have you tried glueing or plastic welding back together.
 
I got that PN # from www.partsouq.com with a 2007 VIN#, It showed not available. Try your local Dealer or Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online

A plastic tab broke off a door lock motor which I found a glue for at Home Depot $3.50. I'd use before on a Slee AHC override switch that came loose.
Glue.JPG

Also I'm trying this out for the door lock motors case. I went with it because it good up to 180F. My thinking was I could use heat to split case again if I ever have to. Googled this stuff found some interesting uses.
053.JPG

A plastic bracket behind my GF Acura bump/fender was busted in three places. In half and two of the retainers housing ripe out. Additionally the bumper hand it's securing eyelet ripped in half. I found on YouTube, people uses super glue and baking soda as fillier. They could then drill, fill or sand. I found this stuff at Advance Auto claims to be stronger and not a bake soda filler. It work really well, holding so far!
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All these were done weeks ago and OAT reached a record high of 95 F for mid Sept and heat wave lasted for weeks. So far they've held.
 
Ok - been reading through the threads as I have a new to me LX470 and I have been having trouble programing a new remote. Turns out it is the drivers door lock. After going back and forth with part #’s I stumbled across the below link that shows the AISIN parts cross reference for the OEM parts that I will bet are AISIN to begin with.

Hope this helps. I just ordered the whole lock for $155 shipped and I’m going to pull the old one and replace the motor as a sore as I already ordered the motor from Amazon.

http://www.aisinaftermarket.com/uploads/qu3uubwq_DLT078-096_PB_sept_2016.pdf
 
Haven't had the chance to put them in yet, its the wifes rig and doesn't see much drive time so there hasn't been any urgency lately, but I plan on tackling this hopefully this weekend, as I need to replace the Power Steering hoses and the valve cover gaskets too. But I got to buy those parts today
#Deadmilenko Did The camry actuator with swapped lever work? I replaced my driver side door about 4 years ago with one of the cheap Chinese motors everyone posts about. It worked for 4 years, but then stopped working again. Since I superglued the clamshell back together, I can't get it apart to replace the motor a second time. I have the white lever out, and am hoping the cheap Camry actuator will work!
I did it, and it worked for me! Pulled straight up on the white two-arm actuator and it popped right out without disassembly Of the actuator. Did the same to the new Camry unit, pressed the old actuator arm into the new actuator by hand, and it works beautifully!
 
Great news! I ended up getting my actuator apart for a second time. But I think a third in another ~4 years will be out of the question. I now have the Camry actuator for the next time. Hope I can find it in the shop in 4 years... LOL
 
Did this repair on my '04 today--bought a camry actuator, but failed to read @oththetrees post and baked (200 degree oven, 10 min) and split the camry case. And then set it aside for a couple days. And then my 2 year old son knocks it off the cabinet and blammo--gears everywhere. Cobbled it back together.

Today I took off my driver's side door trim and attempted to remove the lock mechanism. Used multiple posts on here and the FSM. Couldn't get the stinking electrical connection at the actuator undone for a long time (FSM helpfully says "disconnect the connector")--finally stuck a flat-blade screwdriver in there and pried one way or the other and it popped right out. Followed directions, undid linkages, but couldn't get the mechanism out for the life of me, and then saw a post that said to undo the bottom of the window guide. FSM doesn't mention that because removal of the window mechanism precedes removal of the lock mechanism. Once I undid that bottom guide bolt, it gave me room to wrestle the lock assembly out.

Got the actuator off, popped it in the 200-degree oven for 6 min and started vigorously prying with a flat blade screwdriver, and it popped right open. Thought about just moving the actuator arm to the camry actuator, but noticed the Asin unit from the Cruiser had a spring-loaded arm pivot point, which the Camry either never did, or did until my son sent parts everywhere . . . so I just stole the motor and worm gear from the Camry unit, popped them in the original actuator, and sealed up the clamshell with some E6000, and put everything back together.

Didn't test it right away, to give the adhesive some time to dry, but within 30 min, it was working great. Hasn't worked since we bought the truck in October, and having it work, along with our new YotaMD key shell, is pretty great. Thanks to everyone for all the insight and research/experimentation.
 
FWIW-you can bypass the oven heating process and use a heat gun on the seam, an exacto knife to score the seam and a little pressure with a screwdriver to gently pry apart. Once you get a little access the two parts separate with out too much trouble.
 
I somehow have 4000 tools and no heat gun, but do have an oven! I was pretty surprised by how cleanly the actuator cracked open with some enthusiastic stick and twist screwdriver action....
 
This was one of the first jobs I tackled on my wife's LC 3 years ago. The locks quit working about 3 weeks after we bought it. I used this thread to find the motors and did the whole job. I ended up having to redo 2 of them because the glue didn't hold. My fault as I tried to glue 2 at a time after getting don e with the 1st. The biggest trick was to make sure it was all clean, otherwise it was pretty easy. Thanks to everyone who posted their experiences and helped me figure this out.
 
1998 LX470, Camry motor worked for me on the driver's door. Just popped out the L arm and swapped it over to the Camry actuator as this thread instructed. Broke one of the 2 retention "hooks" on the L arm when I popped it out, but the other hook still held it securely in the Camry actuator, so I put it back together.
 
Did this repair on my '04 today--bought a camry actuator, but failed to read @oththetrees post and baked (200 degree oven, 10 min) and split the camry case. And then set it aside for a couple days. And then my 2 year old son knocks it off the cabinet and blammo--gears everywhere. Cobbled it back together.

Today I took off my driver's side door trim and attempted to remove the lock mechanism. Used multiple posts on here and the FSM. Couldn't get the stinking electrical connection at the actuator undone for a long time (FSM helpfully says "disconnect the connector")--finally stuck a flat-blade screwdriver in there and pried one way or the other and it popped right out. Followed directions, undid linkages, but couldn't get the mechanism out for the life of me, and then saw a post that said to undo the bottom of the window guide. FSM doesn't mention that because removal of the window mechanism precedes removal of the lock mechanism. Once I undid that bottom guide bolt, it gave me room to wrestle the lock assembly out.

Got the actuator off, popped it in the 200-degree oven for 6 min and started vigorously prying with a flat blade screwdriver, and it popped right open. Thought about just moving the actuator arm to the camry actuator, but noticed the Asin unit from the Cruiser had a spring-loaded arm pivot point, which the Camry either never did, or did until my son sent parts everywhere . . . so I just stole the motor and worm gear from the Camry unit, popped them in the original actuator, and sealed up the clamshell with some E6000, and put everything back together.

Didn't test it right away, to give the adhesive some time to dry, but within 30 min, it was working great. Hasn't worked since we bought the truck in October, and having it work, along with our new YotaMD key shell, is pretty great. Thanks to everyone for all the insight and research/experimentation.
On your '04, did your lock motor have the collars?
 

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