Door Lock Actuator Replacement

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Screenshot (10).webp
 
Noticed that Cruiser Outfitters is carrying Aisin replacement lock assemblies, good cheaper option for replacing the whole lock actuator vs. OEM and if you don't want to mess with prying open the broken one. Also comes with the cables and a clip (that I broke, lol).
 
Need part #'s for the following photos. One is the door handle rod clip that attaches to the actuator and connects to the door handle- and the other is the big white plastic piece that guides the cables. ( mine snapped when I removed it ) I know I need the rod clip, but how necessary is the white plastic guide ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as to where to find these.

View attachment 3898437

View attachment 3898438
Might be too late for you, but perhaps helps someone else -- but I just purchased this OEM part -- it seems to be 69293-12030 ("Snap, Door Outside Handle, #1"). This post was very helpful btw, as I'm looking replace the broken white plastic piece. Not sure it's needed, as the new actuator cables came with the clip needed -- but might replace regardless.
 
Quick note for the diy crowd replacing just the motor (especially with the amazon/ebay part) PLEASE do not use crazy permanent epoxy or super glue to put it back together. They will fail again. And the next guy will be dealeling with a previous "repair" fighting to get it back apart without destroying the plastic housing and tabs.

Thanks on behalf of the next owner(s)
 
Quick note for the diy crowd replacing just the motor (especially with the amazon/ebay part) PLEASE do not use crazy permanent epoxy or super glue to put it back together. They will fail again. And the next guy will be dealeling with a previous "repair" fighting to get it back apart without destroying the plastic housing and tabs.

Thanks on behalf of the next owner(s)
What will fail? The motor or the epoxy?
 
These motors still have a limited lifespan, and we are driving these rigs for as long as we can. Just saying the cases might need to come back apart

Case in point:

20251030_150239.webp
 
These motors still have a limited lifespan, and we are driving these rigs for as long as we can. Just saying the cases might need to come back apart

Case in point:

These motors still have a limited lifespan, and we are driving these rigs for as long as we can. Just saying the cases might need to come back apart

Case in point:

View attachment 4021105
I would replace the motors as a one time inexpensive fix. If they fail again, I would just toss the whole actuator and buy a new Denso from RockAuto, they're not that expensive.
 
I would replace the motors as a one time inexpensive fix. If they fail again, I would just toss the whole actuator and buy a new Denso from RockAuto, they're not that expensive.
Thanks, I don't do things that way and the actuator and internals are perfectly fine. My point was these don't have to be "strongly epoxyed" cemented, welded, whatever, back together. That's not how Mr. T. did it and thanks to that (with a little heat) we can service them. The design of the plastic case is such that the screws even hold the outer/lower section to the mounting bracket, so added reinforcement.

Just be aware of what you get from Rockauto and the like.
 
Thanks, I don't do things that way and the actuator and internals are perfectly fine. My point was these don't have to be "strongly epoxyed" cemented, welded, whatever, back together. That's not how Mr. T. did it and thanks to that (with a little heat) we can service them. The design of the plastic case is such that the screws even hold the outer/lower section to the mounting bracket, so added reinforcement.

Just be aware of what you get from Rockauto and the like.
You don't think Denso is good quality?
 
You don't think Denso is good quality?
Sorry, they're not Denso, they're AISIN which is OEM.

Have you ever bought an aftermarket part from RockAuto and had it fail?
 
From the experience of others on here not gluing it back together sufficiently and having to dig back into the door and motor again, I'll go with epoxy. That little motor has a surprising amount of torque and it operates suddenly.
 
If it came across that I said "don't use epoxy" then please disregard/delete my posts.

The last thing I want to do is give bad information to the 100 forum.
 
What i did was to drill two small holes, insert a bolt through, lock tight the thread to hold both halves together.
It's held together for a few years now.
 
Welp I've repaired two of these so far... sealed up one with a few dabs of Krazy Glue and the other w/ some JB weld 2 part epoxy. Neither has popped open on it's own and hopefully I'm never headed back in there again :).
 
Will these work for a 04 Land cruiser as well?

1762630505098.webp
 
Same here. 2004 LC. Did you find a solution for this yet?

EDIT: found the correct motor on eBay just using the similar items. The buyer I used for the incorrect motor had the correct one and he’s located in New Jersey not China so shipping is quick.


View attachment 2814090
@fredward1 Did these work for you? I need to replace my passenger side front and driver side rear
 
I didn't read through this whole thread, so this might have been discussed already. I just replaced my driver door actuator. I watched a video on it and bought the motors the guy recommended, not realizing there is a difference between the earlier years (little brass bushing, plus the brass spiral part), and the newer ones that have a plain shaft w/ a D shape and a nylon spiral part. If anyone ends up in a bind, the brass part can be pulled off, and a little bit of work with a file and it'll fit everything just fine!
This feels like good information. I have a 2003 LX470 and it seems that a lot of my parts end up right on the split year difference. So it’s nice knowing that a little bit of custom work can make either one fit.
 
Back
Top Bottom