Did these fit? Have the same 470. What glue is good to use if you have to redo later? Thanks!
Door Lock Actuator Replacement (1 Viewer)
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Did these fit? Have the same 470. What glue is good to use if you have to redo later? Thanks!
Has anyone tried these from Amazon with the screw together case?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CPJBVVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=ihco-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CPJBVVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=ihco-20
Help - I want to order the correct motors before tearing into this repair - can anyone confirm which of the several motor options I will need for my 2003 LX470
Collared shaft?
"D" shaft?
Long D shaft?
It looks like the collared shaft is the most likely but can anyone confirm? Thanks
Collared shaft?
"D" shaft?
Long D shaft?
It looks like the collared shaft is the most likely but can anyone confirm? Thanks
bump - anyone?
I went ahead and ordered some. TBD...
mdcoa
SILVER Star
I think if you buy the full Camry actuator it won’t matter since you can split both clamshells open and either move your lx actuator arm to the Camry actuator body it move the motor and gear from the Camry assembly to the lx body. Just did this on my 04 LC—haven’t reread this whole thread with an eye to LX-specific repairs, so please forgive me if this is totally off base.
Another option would be to buy one of each motor type since they’re relatively cheap.
thanks - good idea - was going to go ahead and get 4 or five of each, but don't expect to change out more than one at a time - I'll just order one of each for now...
Hi uzj100. Did you ever figure out the window motors? Mine seem to be slowing down (fronts) wondering what the deal is with them...thanks for any help.
Recently attempted this job on a 1999 LX 470, but the brass collars on top of the shaft seemed smaller than the original measured about 4/10 of a millimeter smaller in one direction and maybe .1 mm smaller in the other, upon putting it all back together the locks worked in the forward direction but when attempting to unlock you would hear the shaft spin ( or possible gear slipping) upon removal of the new motors it looked like it was spinning inside the worm gear since they were marks on the brass color showing that I had been spinning and not catching inside the worm gear. Anyone else had this problem? With the brass collars appearing to be too small? The only other option I can think of is that the motor has some problem (making a noise when it goes in one direction), or the gear is stripping/slipping, but it seemed to be
intact . Thanks for any input.
intact . Thanks for any input.
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^^^^THIS!!!
After reading this whole 27 page thread multiple times, this post was a major breakthrough. The camry actuator solution should get more attention!
It cost me $93 (incl tax and shipping) for 5 new camry actuators. Swapped the "L" arm from my old actuator to the new actuator and it works like a charm. I did have to bake open my old actuators to get the needed "L" arm off (the arm has a clip that snaps it in place behind the gear and mine was tight), but I DID NOT have to open the new camry actuator to get the camry arm off or to press the "L" arm back in.
I know that replacing the motors would have been cheaper, especially since I already had the old actuators open, but $93 is a small price to pay for 5 brand new, sealed actuators! I understand others have reported durability issues with the motor replacement route, so I'm hoping that the camry actuators are a more robust solution.
I like your Camry actuator idea, Could you please post a link to where you got them? Or tell us where to get them? Did you see above I had problems with the older motors which come in the 1999, 2000 models (shure a few other years, the brass collar motors) not fitting correctly but I’m not sure if your camry solution only applies to the newer Lexus and Toyota’s ? Thanks
I'm very interested in using the Camry actuators as well. I've replaced all of the motors 3 times and while they still work, one door makes a very loud buzzing/grinding sound when opening. I was considering new Land Cruiser actuators but those are really expensive.
Chris
Chris
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Just want to second @SierraWheeler . Camry actuators are a good way to go, especially since the arms can just be swapped—I didn’t realize this when I did mine a couple weeks ago and baked the Camry actuator open and then had a kid knock it off a shelf—pieces everywhere!! So I just swapped the motor from it into the lc case. But if the lc case can be opened and the arms swapped without opening the Camry case, that’s the way to go imho.
@Muddog7 , Where I got mine: For Camry 97-01, Front, Driver Side Door Lock Actuator | eBay
@Muddog7 , Where I got mine: For Camry 97-01, Front, Driver Side Door Lock Actuator | eBay
Part #s in post above. Drivers side and passenger side have different part #s. You’ll need a passenger side actuator fit the tailgate. Buy from your favorite parts store, I got a good deal from carparts.com.
My camry actuators looked like this, and the green arm pulls out by hand. Pop in the “L” arm, and you’re done. (I did all of the doors and pics are not all the same actuator but you should get the idea)
Quick question - are the actuators the same for all model years of the 100? Should these Camry actuators work in my 2003 as well?
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Used ‘em in my 04 so they should be fine—seems like the year to year variation was only internal (motors, shafts, etc)
I wanted to add to this thread that I ordered this actuator for the front passenger door lock, swapped the arm without opening the case of the new actuator, and installed and everything seems to be working great.
The Camry actuators I see posted are aftermarket. Has anyone used an OEM Camry Actuator? If so, do you have part numbers or what year Camry? Thanks
I used the Camry actuator solution which was relatively easy but I now have a perplexing problem. Reinstalled, the actuator cycles appropriately but only to unlock. No sense that power is getting to the actuator when I push lock on key fob. Totally quiet, no action. It's not the actuator as I hooked it directly to 12 volts and cycles both directions. I put a volt meter onto the plug that attaches to the actuator and get 12 V only when when I press unlock. Nothing on lock. I checked the harness wiring to the plug but all looks OK. I suspect a fuse, but I would be surprised if a fuse was only in the "close" circuitIs that possible? And I have no clue where that fuse might be. The actuators worked inconsistently before I tore the door apart, but I don't recall having this problem.
My truck is not a daily driver so sitting in the driveway partially apart. And rain next few days anyway. Not sure where to go next.
My truck is not a daily driver so sitting in the driveway partially apart. And rain next few days anyway. Not sure where to go next.
