Door Lock Actuator Replacement (2 Viewers)

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I did the passenger door on my 2005 today with information from this thread, Camry actuator ordered from Amazon...and the "removing the door panel" thread. I'm not going to say it was easy, but with basic tools and my suspect patience, and a few diversions I was able to do it in about 4hrs.
Getting the actuator back in and the window track in place was the hardest part. I was able to put the old actuator in my vice and pry it apart with a putty knife to get the arms out.
Thanks everyone for making this a fun and rewarding project instead of the mindf%@k that it could have been.
... waiting until I forget all the important little details I swore I wouldn't forget before I do the front driver door.
 
I did the passenger door on my 2005 today with information from this thread, Camry actuator ordered from Amazon...and the "removing the door panel" thread. I'm not going to say it was easy, but with basic tools and my suspect patience, and a few diversions I was able to do it in about 4hrs.
Getting the actuator back in and the window track in place was the hardest part. I was able to put the old actuator in my vice and pry it apart with a putty knife to get the arms out.
Thanks everyone for making this a fun and rewarding project instead of the mindf%@k that it could have been.
... waiting until I forget all the important little details I swore I wouldn't forget before I do the front driver door.


Ok, I did the driver door today in half the time and 75% less cussing and blood. Both the yellow and orange clips that hold the arms to the door locks came off without having to use anything other than a flathead to push them off.
the hardest part for me on both doors was the getting the white plug out of the old actuator - it had to be done before I could take the whole mechanism out from inside the door and unscrew the actuator and it just seems to be at an awkward angle to press the clip.

anyway - actually looking forward to doing the rear doors... you know just for fun.
 
Ok, I did the driver door today in half the time and 75% less cussing and blood. Both the yellow and orange clips that hold the arms to the door locks came off without having to use anything other than a flathead to push them off.
the hardest part for me on both doors was the getting the white plug out of the old actuator - it had to be done before I could take the whole mechanism out from inside the door and unscrew the actuator and it just seems to be at an awkward angle to press the clip.

anyway - actually looking forward to doing the rear doors... you know just for fun.

Well... I posted too soon. Both door locks stopped working right after I posted this :p

I went back in and fixed them; here's the scoop to save you from making the same mistake I did -

the white arms from the old actuator had a black gasket O-ring that needed to be removed before fitting it in the new Camry actuator, not removing this gasket prevented the arms from seating in the gear fitting all the way and they worked themselves loose, probably from the vibrations of driving... so it worked at first but after a day of driving it just stops moving the arms.

Lesson learned - also I used some teflon grease from my bike kit this time to help seat everything a little firmer.
 
Looking to order Camry Actuators for my 2002 Land Cruiser. Do I need to order rear Camry actuators for the rear doors of the LC?
 
I replaced my driver’s door actuator today. Regarding that SOB white plastic cable guide, here is how i got it off without breaking it.

I heated everything up with my wife’s hairdryer, then drove one of my doorpanel screws a few turns into the plastic plug/rivet. With the screw set, I pried it out of the door with minimal drama. The right side popped out pretty easily once the other side was free, but I used heat there also.

Hope this helps.

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Guys I need some help. I have a 2000 LC I replaced all actuators with Camry actuators listed above and everything seems to work. Doors lock and unlock with remote. Door will lock and unlock with a key. When sitting in the LC and I push the door lock button from the driver side or the passenger side the locks cycle lock and then unlock. They will not lock from the inside. Has anyone else run into this? Any suggestions?
 
Is the key in the ignition? It's to prevent you from locking keys in the car and closing the door on the way out.
 
Yes. The key is in the ignition, but that is exactly how the lock are behaving like it is preventing me from locking my keys in the car.
Even in drive dime behavior.
 
Sorry, I just confirmed I can lock doors inside key in or out of ignition. I seem to remember this problem being a small switch on the door latch in another thread.
 
I will look for a switch. The only one I recall seeing are on the rear door for child safety.
 
No, I meant an electric switch inside the door by the door latch. Believe it also sends signal to the alarm.
 
If one (includes rear hatch) lock is not working or one door not signally closed. This "may" cause locks to open.
 
Guys thanks for the reply's. I have check and I can't find any switch. All door and hatches are closed with no indication on the dash that anything is open. While the key is in the ignition and in the on position and the drives door open I push the lock button and the locks cycle however on the drivers side rear door I hear the actuator continue to fire. I also hear a relay in the dash doing the same. It will also do this from the passenger lock switch. I will pull the door apart again. Any suggestions on what to look for beside broken or frayed wires?
 
Sorry to hijack this tread, hopefully this should be my final post on this. I took the drives side rear door apart again. I found the the lever had separated from the actuator just a little maybe 1/16". I made sure it snapped in place and that it could not separate. Everything seems to be working properly now. 9 hrs and 4 doors. Mud has helped me through another project. Thanks Again.
 
I just read this entire thread. It's hot outside and wouldn't you know it, my passenger front door lock is intermittent. Looks like mopselectric still sells them on ebay. I guess there is still no real consensus on which models have a collar or not? I have a 2001 LX. This job looks really annoying. Any positive/negative outcomes from some of you who have replaced them, since time has passed?

 
@Pyrenees - the job is what it is. Bring patience and care to the job and it will go well. Once you do one door, you’ll have the knowledge and experience necessary to do another if needed. Your mud brethren have blazed the trail. Now go, grasshopper. Replace the actuator and become one with your Cruiser.

The alternative is to shell out $700 or more at the stealership.

I did two of my doors a few years ago and they’re still working fine.
 
Once you've done it once, the procedure gets fast and it's really not difficult. I've replaced all of my lock motors 3 times on my 2003 and I can do each door in about 20-30 minutes now. Replacing the motor works every time but they fail again, just like the stock motors. It's a cheap part which probably can't stand up to the hotter climates. Friends of mine in Wisconsin have an identical 2003 LC and they have only changed the driver's door once and not the others. Summers here in northern California are much hotter. I have another that buzzes occasionally now but still works so I haven't changed it out, but it will probably fail completely this summer.

Chris
 
my driver door is starting to be intermittent... so from what ive read, the fastest route now is camry actuators instead of replacing the little motors (that will go bad again in this Florida heat) ?
 
nitteo that's what I think, yeah. It was getting late and I was falling asleep reading this thread, but I think it's not an exact swap, you have to remove the white LC/LX plastic thingamajiggy from the actuator and swap them out, so you still have to crack the actuator open. In other words, it sounded like you basically had to do the same amount of work. Someone please correct me if I was brain-dead when reading last night.
 
my driver door is starting to be intermittent... so from what ive read, the fastest route now is camry actuators instead of replacing the little motors (that will go bad again in this Florida heat) ?

Well, the fastest route would be to buy the entire Aisin assembly and just swap old for new. The fastest way is unfortunately not the cheapest as the assembly costs around $150.

 

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