Door Lock Actuator Replacement (8 Viewers)

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Well, the fastest route would be to buy the entire Aisin assembly and just swap old for new. The fastest way is unfortunately not the cheapest as the assembly costs around $150.

I replaced my whole driver side front assembly because I didn't want to deal with opening the actuator. I've seen Denso camry actuators on Amazon, I would feel comfortable with those if they work with our 100's.
 
Swapping a Camry actuator is a lot less work than replacing the motor in the OEM actuator. The arm piece pops right out of the Camry actuator but you will have to pry apart the OEM, but wasn't a big deal when I did it - came apart with a putty knife. the old arm will then just slip into the new actuator without taking it apart but I suggest using some kind of lithium or teflon grease to pack the new one in as it may come lose if you don't seat it in there all the way.
I notice the new actuators have a little bit more of a tinny sound than the OEM when locking and unlocking the doors... but that's just me being nit-picky; they work fine.
 
Yeah, I saw the AISIN complete actuators for like $120. I agree that it's the "time is money/get it done now" option here. Then again, I know this is an 18-year-old vehicle and 5x $120 is a lot more than 5x $5, so I'm mentally debating about how to go about it, since I'm betting this won't be my last door lock actuator rodeo. Hmmm. Also, this morning when it was cooler outside, door lock worked perfectly. So yeah, it seems to fit the classic "doesn't work so great when hot" scenario.
 
Once you've done it once, the procedure gets fast and it's really not difficult. I've replaced all of my lock motors 3 times on my 2003 and I can do each door in about 20-30 minutes now. Replacing the motor works every time but they fail again, just like the stock motors. It's a cheap part which probably can't stand up to the hotter climates. Friends of mine in Wisconsin have an identical 2003 LC and they have only changed the driver's door once and not the others. Summers here in northern California are much hotter. I have another that buzzes occasionally now but still works so I haven't changed it out, but it will probably fail completely this summer.

Chris
Completely agree. First door took me a while, but after that it became a few minute operation. Just like you told me it would be ;)
 
LMFAO. Today one of the rear doors started doing the same thing. Come to think of it, I think this door has been doing it for a while and I had chalked it up to the kid safety interlock. Anyone know with certainty which motors go in a 2001 LX470? I am thinking it is the collar-less ones.
 
I replaced mine years ago. My drivers door went out again not too long ago. The motor replacement is easy after the first one, even years later it wasn't that bad doing it again.

The mfg part number is: FC 280PT 22125
- that part comes with the collar

When I replaced mine I purchased directly through an electronics manufacturing company in China. They required a minimum purchase so I did a group buy with others here on MUD. I went this route because I trusted their motors, didn't know that I trusted e-bay sellers.

If anyone wants to do a group buy with others, it's a good way to go. The seller I used is Kysan Electronics. The part can be found here: Kysan Electronics Product Detail Page

:cheers:
 
@Topoguide Yeah, I saw the group order happened previously. Not a bad way to do it. I found one of the ebay sellers (mopselectric) that people in this thread recommended still sells them, $19.95 for a set of four. I just wish I knew if I needed collars or not. I'd buy them today and then just sit on them until I got some free time.
 
@Topoguide Yeah, I saw the group order happened previously. Not a bad way to do it. I found one of the ebay sellers (mopselectric) that people in this thread recommended still sells them, $19.95 for a set of four. I just wish I knew if I needed collars or not. I'd buy them today and then just sit on them until I got some free time.

I'm pretty sure you can remove the collars if you don't need them
 
I'm pretty sure you can remove the collars if you don't need them
Yes you can. As someone said in here somewhere, they just slide right off. But I think the issue was that we need the collar, and some motors come without the collar. In that case you have to swap the collar to the new motor, if you buy the ones with the collar you are good to go.

@Pyrenees that sounds like a good way to go too.
 
Swapping a Camry actuator is a lot less work than replacing the motor in the OEM actuator. The arm piece pops right out of the Camry actuator but you will have to pry apart the OEM, but wasn't a big deal when I did it - came apart with a putty knife. the old arm will then just slip into the new actuator without taking it apart but I suggest using some kind of lithium or teflon grease to pack the new one in as it may come lose if you don't seat it in there all the way.
I notice the new actuators have a little bit more of a tinny sound than the OEM when locking and unlocking the doors... but that's just me being nit-picky; they work fine.


My passenger door is starting to act up with the Camry replacement actuator. It's giving me a loud buzz like the gears are grinding and then it stopped working. I opened up the door panel and took the actuator out and couldn't see anything obvious and dry testing it out of the door it moves but seems to be spinning more than necessary inside the unit which makes a loud buzz.
I used some gorilla glue on the actuator arm that I had put in there from the OEM LC one I removed as I think that this could be the ill-fitting culprit. . . Still buzzes but is working for now
My Driver door is working fine with the Camry replacement so it's possible its a bad unit and I'll go ahead and try another one for 15 bucks off amazon before I spring for the LC Actuator at 150 bucks.

Anyone else with Camry replacements experiencing anything similar?
 
I replaced both driver and passenger front door actuators with Camry. Pretty quick fix. In short order the passenger while working properly began to "buzz" when opening but not closing. I took the unit out and with all mechanical connections removed it would still buzz when pushed "open." I had another passenger unit, tested it - no buzz-, reinstalled and now working without buzz. I didn't pull the buzzing unit apart to inspect it. That will be on my to do list.

By the way I live in menlo park CA and if anyone is challenged with this project and lives close by I am willing to lend a hand.
 
I'd really like to find non China made motors with collars. Anyone know of a source?
 
@Tkb , no issues at all with the motor from the Camry actuator....I had intended to use the whole actuator, after an arm swap, but then a kid sent it flying after I’d gotten it open, so I just opened the lc original and swapped in the motor from the Camry actuator. So the issue’s probably not the motor in the Camry ones...
 
Well... I posted too soon. Both door locks stopped working right after I posted this :p

I went back in and fixed them; here's the scoop to save you from making the same mistake I did -

the white arms from the old actuator had a black gasket O-ring that needed to be removed before fitting it in the new Camry actuator, not removing this gasket prevented the arms from seating in the gear fitting all the way and they worked themselves loose, probably from the vibrations of driving... so it worked at first but after a day of driving it just stops moving the arms.

Lesson learned - also I used some teflon grease from my bike kit this time to help seat everything a little firmer.

Mine worked many times in the garage, but only worked once more after a drive. The actuator I pulled out had a gasket as well as the Camry unit. I put the LC gasket on and squeezed it pretty good to get to seat the arm. I guess I get to redo it this time with no gasket...
 
Mine worked many times in the garage, but only worked once more after a drive. The actuator I pulled out had a gasket as well as the Camry unit. I put the LC gasket on and squeezed it pretty good to get to seat the arm. I guess I get to redo it this time with no gasket...

Took this apart and it really is easier the second time around. I had the actuator out in 20 minutes or so. I noticed that the arm was coming out of the actuator body. The cause was that I put the actuator on the wrong side of the assembly. It's not really keyed and will go on either way. For those reading, make sure the arm and rod with the hole are on the same plane.
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I replaced both driver and passenger front door actuators with Camry. Pretty quick fix. In short order the passenger while working properly began to "buzz" when opening but not closing. I took the unit out and with all mechanical connections removed it would still buzz when pushed "open." I had another passenger unit, tested it - no buzz-, reinstalled and now working without buzz. I didn't pull the buzzing unit apart to inspect it. That will be on my to do list.

By the way I live in menlo park CA if anyone is challenged with this project and lives close by I am willing to lend a hand.


I ended up replacing the actuator with a new one and that seems to ( fingers crossed) do the trick. I went ahead and ordered this one off Amazon -
Amazon product ASIN B07DNKBD6D
It was $29.00 instead of the previous one that was half that, but this one is much sturdier feeling and has screws in the casing for taking it apart and putting back together - something I hope not to have to do.

I'm getting pretty fluent in getting the door and assembly on & off and am in Costa Mesa if anyone down here wants a hand, message me.

strangely the hardest part is getting the door panel put back on so the forward part of the panel is fitted properly in the window slot so you can fit the tweeter cover back on - I finally figured it out and tested before I put all the screws and fasteners in where every other time I had to remove all the fasteners and trim and do it over.
 
I ended up replacing the actuator with a new one and that seems to ( fingers crossed) do the trick. I went ahead and ordered this one off Amazon -
Amazon product ASIN B07DNKBD6D
It was $29.00 instead of the previous one that was half that, but this one is much sturdier feeling and has screws in the casing for taking it apart and putting back together - something I hope not to have to do.

I'm getting pretty fluent in getting the door and assembly on & off and am in Costa Mesa if anyone down here wants a hand, message me.

strangely the hardest part is getting the door panel put back on so the forward part of the panel is fitted properly in the window slot so you can fit the tweeter cover back on - I finally figured it out and tested before I put all the screws and fasteners in where every other time I had to remove all the fasteners and trim and do it over.
link no working. please link actuator again please!
 
Hot weather is the kiss of death for old door actuators.

Just a few days away from leaving on my G O - W E S T trip for 3 weeks my passenger door actuator started buzzzzing. I had previously replaced the motor about 9 months ago but I think the gear inside is not happy. I ordered a complete actuator replacement that comes with the door latch and cables to actuate the interior door lock. Ordered the AISIN DLT084 (DLT-084) $89 on RA. $20 for overnight shipping and it was here today.

About 1 hour to remove & replace
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