Door Lock Actuator Replacement (61 Viewers)

[dsweeney]

I am looking at getting the Camry actuators from eBay or amazon and had a question. Do I need to get drivers side (Camry) for my drivers side front (02 cruiser), and passenger side (Camry) for my passenger side (cruiser)?
Also, do the rear Camry ones work for the rear of the cruiser? Just want to make sure I order the right ones.
Thanks!

 

[ewrk1989]

Trying to contribute to this thread since it has been so helpful to me. 2002 LX470, 248k miles. Front driver and rear passenger locks did not like to fully actuate using remote or tailgate keyhole mechanism. This behavior only exhibited in hot weather. Right now they actually work fine. But I took the opportunity to work on it now--I have better patience for this sort of thing when it's cool out and no bugs.



Reading the thread, I honestly wanted to replace my whole mechanism. Yes, the motor is the issue, but my logic is that buying an authentic Aisin assembly lasted 15 years (symptoms started back in 2017) so it should last another...15? 10? Even if it only lasts another 5 that would be great. Bit the bullet and got DS Front assembly for $126 and PS Rear for $90. Time is money and I'm ok with that price.



Everything with the install went just fine except a little bit of the yellow clip for the PS Rear was brittle and snapped off. Enough material was there for me to just use a tiny zip tie to hold the clip against the rod. It was the "cam", or "curvy part with the bump" that hugs the rod which broke.

For the DS Front, definitely absolutely recommend removing the handle as it provided the necessary access to the pink clip that connects to the lock cylinder. I don't think I could have done it otherwise. Access to the rearward two screws is achieved once the handle rod is disconnected (not the cadmium plated lock cylinder rod). Access to the forward screw is trivial. Removing the handle also allows access to view and or manipulate the two snap in plugs on the annoying white plastic guide plate. Or verifying the window guide track has been reinstalled correctly...etc etc. Just do it!

After accomplishing the DS Front, the PS Rear seemed so easy. There is only one metal arm, no lock cylinder, no annoying white plastic guide plate (integral tube instead), and the whole assembly can be removed from a big cutout just to the left. 2.5hrs versus 50 minutes for this first timer.

I recommend checking actuation and closing/opening doors before resealing the plastic and buttoning up the door. Oh and that reminds me, I used a utility knife to cut through the thick tar like sealant. Gently pulling the plastic and cutting through the tar made it quick, avoided tearing the plastic, and allowed for some tar to be on both surfaces for resealing. I suspect my winter conditions allowed for this cutting... maybe it's just plain goopy when hot out.

If you have the cash, I highly recommend remove and replace.

 

[planomateo]

Just had to do this on the driver side door on my daughters LS430.

 

[Borrego]

I replaced my driver side motor 5 years ago, and it held up until just the other day. The torque of the little motor finally separated the epoxy I used and it popped the clamshell open. The motor worm drive then shredded the plastic gear inside. Luckily I had bought a camry actuator awhile back. I pulled the arm off the cruiser and put it on the camry actuator. Everything went back in like a breeze. The arm sits very firmly in the actuator. I imagine it will last a long time. Much better than pulling the clamshell apart to replace the motor. Definitely going this route from now on when other doors start to go. BTW, the arm only goes in one way. There is a groove it sits in, and it snaps in and is held in place by expanding tabs.

 

[gregnash]

I replaced my driver side motor 5 years ago, and it held up until just the other day. The torque of the little motor finally separated the epoxy I used and it popped the clamshell open. The motor worm drive then shredded the plastic gear inside. Luckily I had bought a camry actuator awhile back. I pulled the arm off the cruiser and put it on the camry actuator. Everything went back in like a breeze. The arm sits very firmly in the actuator. I imagine it will last a long time. Much better than pulling the clamshell apart to replace the motor. Definitely going this route from now on when other doors start to go. BTW, the arm only goes in one way. There is a groove it sits in, and it snaps in and is held in place by expanding tabs.

View attachment 2194738
View attachment 2194739

So is the above side/door specific. Looking up the part number to see for sure. But curious about this.

 

[Borrego]

So is the above side/door specific. Looking up the part number to see for sure. But curious about this.

I've only done the driver door, but looking at part numbers, I would think it is different. maybe someone that has replaced multiple doors can chime in.

Rock Auto has the Aisin Actuators

2001 TOYOTA CAMRY 2.2L L4 Door Lock Actuator | Shop Now at RockAuto

Body & Lamp Assembly Parts and More for Your 2001 TOYOTA CAMRY at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[aging fleet]

For my model year, RockAuto has pretty decent prices on the entire assemblies. Not sure I'd even bother using the Camry actuator.

 

[gregnash]

Nice find... yeah becomes a debate of the cheap fix (She-Maar camry actuator for $20) or OE (Aisin full actuator/lock assembly for $90).

 

[hoser]

For my model year, RockAuto has pretty decent prices on the entire assemblies. Not sure I'd even bother using the Camry actuator.

View attachment 2194837

My model year wasn't available at the time of purchase. So I took a chance and purchased the other model year. The difference is just those two rods in the center of the pic. Easily swappable from the old actuator.

 

[gregnash]

See now just looked mine up on RockAuto ('98LC) and the lock actuator is even more expensive than yours @aging fleet ... Mine comes in at $116

 

[aging fleet]

See now just looked mine up on RockAuto ('98LC) and the lock actuator is even more expensive than yours @aging fleet ... Mine comes in at $116

Bummer the older versions are a bit more expensive.

 

[gregnash]

Bummer the older versions are a bit more expensive.

Right... I am gonna go with the AISIN (DLT-063) camry actuator to try that out. This way I am not completely cheaping out on the part (about $65 from RockAuto) but still not saddled with the $100+ for the mechanism

 

[gregnash]

Right... I am gonna go with the AISIN (DLT-063) camry actuator to try that out. This way I am not completely cheaping out on the part (about $65 from RockAuto) but still not saddled with the $100+ for the mechanism

Actually just looking through the thread as this has been bugging me and found that the FC-280PT-22125 motor (with the brass color) was for sale on Amazon for $15 prime shipped from one of the sellers that will ship 4 motors for $18 (but from china) on ebay. So bit the bullet to test just the motor and it will be here on Thursday. If this works and helps with my alarm issue then I will order the other 4 set of motors and wait to get them from China. Comes under the name AZGIANT.

Got some time set aside this weekend to take care of a few things so will start doing this ASAP.

 

[planomateo]

From my replacement in a LS430 driver door from a few months ago. I recommend making sure you understand how things fit back together. It's surprisingly tricky but simple.

 

[gregnash]

Just went through this and replaced the motor.
Used heat gun to help soften things up and then an Xacto Knife to split with the help of a medium sized drywall mud knife. After a few heat cycles and scraping with the blade it finally went through and I was able to split the casing. Swapped motors, put some Gorilla Glue down and put things back together. Plugged into the switch in the door to make sure things worked and she flips open and closed with a vengeance now!!!

Currently waiting for the glue to cure for about 30 mins. with some clamps applied to the case. Will duct-tape around the body to help keep things together then put it back together.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah she works!!! No alarm issues this morning after sitting all night! Here's to hoping this stays good. In the future, I will just go the simpler route of replacing with the Camry module.

 

[2001LC]

R&R DS frt Motor Assembly, on an 06LC this afternoon.
R&R PS frt Motor and 1800 Glue, on an 00LX 18 months ago. So far all good!

Easier and faster job. Not having to break open case and wait for glue to set.

 

[ewrk1989]

My for sale links below in case anyone can benefit. A careless driver crashed into me and totaled my 2002 LX. Was keeping these parts for spares (I had R&R'd with new assemblies) but have no use now (upgraded to a beautiful 2011 LC).

For Sale - St. Louis, MO - 100 Series / LX470 FC-280 Door Lock Actuator Motors

Selling 4 FC-280 motors with collar, and also 4 FC-280 motors without the collar. Originally purchased with the intent to repair my actuators but decided to replace with entirely new assemblies. $35 + shipping for all 8 motors. Local pickup is alright, too. PM if interested! Thanks.

forum.ih8mud.com

SOLD - St. Louis, MO - 100 Series / LX470 Door Lock Actuator Assemblies

Selling door lock actuator assemblies from my 2002 LX470. These are the FRONT DRIVER SIDE and REAR PASSENGER SIDE assemblies. Lock actuator motors were on the way out, but the assemblies were otherwise working well. I just decided to remove and replace with new assemblies so these are extra now...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jebmd]

Satisfied customer here. Took the lazy route and ordered the whole assembly from Rockauto. Took an hour to R&R with no hassle.

 

[Jfcol]

Satisfied customer here. Took the lazy route and ordered the whole assembly from Rockauto. Took an hour to R&R with no hassle.


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View attachment 2237409

Did the same thing. And this was after buying a Camry actuator motor off eBay and switching out the little plastic lever. It worked fine for a few months but the lever doesn't seat as well as it should and will work its way out. My mechanic urged me to just get the whole actuator assembly. He said he has tried all of the other methods including cracking open the plastic shell and switching out the servo (or whatever it's called). Annoying to have to buy the whole thing but worth it, to me at least.