Unfortunately I removed it before taking a picMatch them up to your stock washers and orientation
The rear lower shock mount bolt isn’t long enough either. Am I the only one having issues?
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Unfortunately I removed it before taking a picMatch them up to your stock washers and orientation
Yes that looks good, correct orientation of the bushings/washers. Is that with the weight of the vehicle on it?Does this look correct?
If so, good reference for anyone installing.
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Car is on jack stands but I have the axle jacked up several inches which might make it look loaded.Yes that looks good, correct orientation of the bushings/washers. Is that with the weight of the vehicle on it?
I'll need to make a "frequent buyer club" card or something for guys like you!! haha
Let us know how it all goes. I guarantee once you change the shocks on your son's rig, he won't believe the difference.
Thanks for the summary. Sounds like a really well rounded 100!! Time to see some photos of that sucka!!As expected, the straight IMS front and rear are a substantial improvement over the previous OMEs on my son's 2000 TLC.
It's a pretty basic/light vehicle. OME deluxe front bumper with 10k Warn winch, Slee sliders, OME torsion bars, OME 860 springs, SPC UCA. I was concerned that I might slightly regret not going with the MRA on the rear, but that doesn't appear to be the case. It seems well balanced, comfortable, and controlled, with no real urge that I need to adjust something.
Another happy customer (or the same customer happy again )
Time to see some photos of that sucka!!
Stands up nice!3” shocks up front with 167’s in the rear.
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Any other updates on people who have installed the IMS shocks? Anyone have comparisons to Fox 2.0’s? I currently run heavy OME springs and TBs, Fox 2.0’s, Nitro UCAs, lower dif drop… ride is great. But feels loose at times not as planted as I’d like. I had OME shocks, hated them. Ride was terrible. Got the Fox 2.0’s and it’s been solid. But, been wanting to upgrade the shocks to give more firm planted feel and heard about these new IMS shocks recently. I also currently have Dissent front bumper, roof rack and white knuckle sliders, with rear bumper w/ tire carrier being ordered in the next week.
Needing feedback. The shocks I’m looking at are
1) Icon stage 2
2) Ironman Foam cell pro
3) Dobinson IMS
Running 34” Nitto Ridge Grapplers on stock 18” wheels - 2003 LX470
Thanks
MRA for the fronts of 100 series are coming this month (May). Stay tuned!!I’ve been pleased enough with the Dobinsons IMS/MRA combination on my two LX470s for the last year, that I installed the Dobinsons IMS on my son’s 2000 TLC. My original plan was to try three different “premium” shocks, on the three 100 series in my driveway, but the Dobinsons shocks worked well enough to scrap those plans.
I have no experience with the Fox 2.0 shocks. I do have previous experience with AHC, OE (non-AHC) shocks, OME shocks, and Tough Dog (foam cell) shocks on the 100 series.
I wouldn’t describe the IMS as feeling overly “loose”, nor would I describe them as (OME) “harsh”.
On the MRA rear shocks, it has taken ~1 year of turning knobs to get them “just right”. The IMS rears are tuned pretty well out of the box, but could use a little extra weight to be “just right”.
We’ve been pretty happy with the performance/comfort in town as a DD, on road trips (flat land and mountains), and off-road.
I wish that the MRA shocks were available for the front of the 100 series, I’d buy at least one set.
All three of mine are relative lightweights, that follow the same basic formula. “Medium” springs (OME 860/ToughDog 949L), OME “lighter” torsion bars, aftermarket UCAs (SPC, Nitro, Trail Tailor), diff drop (Slee, Trail Tailor), and extended sway bar links (Trail Tailor).
Firm panted feel? ….as compared to…..? What are you experiencing now that you don’t like under what driving conditions? Asking because finding the right shock set up is pretty subjective.Any other updates on people who have installed the IMS shocks? Anyone have comparisons to Fox 2.0’s? I currently run heavy OME springs and TBs, Fox 2.0’s, Nitro UCAs, lower dif drop… ride is great. But feels loose at times not as planted as I’d like. I had OME shocks, hated them. Ride was terrible. Got the Fox 2.0’s and it’s been solid. But, been wanting to upgrade the shocks to give more firm planted feel and heard about these new IMS shocks recently. I also currently have Dissent front bumper, roof rack and white knuckle sliders, with rear bumper w/ tire carrier being ordered in the next week.
Needing feedback. The shocks I’m looking at are
1) Icon stage 2
2) Ironman Foam cell pro
3) Dobinson IMS
Running 34” Nitto Ridge Grapplers on stock 18” wheels - 2003 LX470
Thanks
This is why I love mud. Great responses!Firm panted feel? ….as compared to…..? What are you experiencing now that you don’t like under what driving conditions? Asking because finding the right shock set up is pretty subjective.
Foam Cell Pro’s
My set up is pretty heavy and I’ve run FCPs for 5yrs- as a budget shock they do pretty good at retaining stock ride comfort while managing to soak up offroad chop reasonably up to 20-30mph.
I’ve played with different rear spring heights and spring rates and found that the FCP manages general road driving best when it’s sitting in the lower portion of its stroke- about 1.5” lift with up to 200-300lbs of added load- that is paired with their sport spring(TOY13B).
I later installed OME 864 (CL type spring) which stiffened and pushed the rear ride height closer to 3” ~ 3.5”- this spring change provided better departure clearance but the downside is that the shock was extended another 1.5” further into the stoke and lost some control of compression but mostly rebound. The result was more body roll. This is related to valving.
Valving. Fixed and Adjustable >> Trade offs>>performance and cost
Shocks with fixed valving can perform well within a finite range- but as you extend, add weight or change terrain conditions, you typically exceed the range where fixed valving is optimal. Fixed valving = one setting fits most = less expensive.
Adjustable valving allows you to dial in compression and or rebound a little better to suit terrain conditions, load, or driving preferences. Mid price point.
Custom tuned (custom valving) with external adjustability is the optimal choice. Most expensive but on the other hand better all-round performance and usability. Depends on your budget, use and tolerance for control.
IMO- Fixed valve shocks paired with the right spring combination can perform fine for most on road/off road needs. But adjustable or custom valved adjustable with external resivoir are optimal if you have budget. $300per corner vs $1200+ per corner is a big difference in investment. And that is the trade off.
That’s amazing. Both my boys want land cruisers. (8 & 11) so I’m already lookingI’ve been pleased enough with the Dobinsons IMS/MRA combination on my two LX470s for the last year, that I installed the Dobinsons IMS on my son’s 2000 TLC. My original plan was to try three different “premium” shocks, on the three 100 series in my driveway, but the Dobinsons shocks worked well enough to scrap those plans.
I have no experience with the Fox 2.0 shocks. I do have previous experience with AHC, OE (non-AHC) shocks, OME shocks, and Tough Dog (foam cell) shocks on the 100 series.
I wouldn’t describe the IMS as feeling overly “loose”, nor would I describe them as (OME) “harsh”.
On the MRA rear shocks, it has taken ~1 year of turning knobs to get them “just right”. The IMS rears are tuned pretty well out of the box, but could use a little extra weight to be “just right”.
We’ve been pretty happy with the performance/comfort in town as a DD, on road trips (flat land and mountains), and off-road.
I wish that the MRA shocks were available for the front of the 100 series, I’d buy at least one set.
All three of mine are relative lightweights, that follow the same basic formula. “Medium” springs (OME 860/ToughDog 949L), OME “lighter” torsion bars, aftermarket UCAs (SPC, Nitro, Trail Tailor), diff drop (Slee, Trail Tailor), and extended sway bar links (Trail Tailor).
Go on…MRA for the fronts of 100 series are coming this month (May). Stay tuned!!
Firm panted feel? ….as compared to…..? What are you experiencing now that you don’t like under what driving conditions? Asking because finding the right shock set up is pretty subjective.
Foam Cell Pro’s
My set up is pretty heavy and I’ve run FCPs for 5yrs- as a budget shock they do pretty good at retaining stock ride comfort while managing to soak up offroad chop reasonably up to 20-30mph.
I’ve played with different rear spring heights and spring rates and found that the FCP manages general road driving best when it’s sitting in the lower portion of its stroke- about 1.5” lift with up to 200-300lbs of added load- that is paired with their sport spring(TOY13B).
I later installed OME 864 (CL type spring) which stiffened and pushed the rear ride height closer to 3” ~ 3.5”- this spring change provided better departure clearance but the downside is that the shock was extended another 1.5” further into the stoke and lost some control of compression but mostly rebound. The result was more body roll. This is related to valving.
Valving. Fixed and Adjustable >> Trade offs>>performance and cost
Shocks with fixed valving can perform well within a finite range- but as you extend, add weight or change terrain conditions, you typically exceed the range where fixed valving is optimal. Fixed valving = one setting fits most = less expensive.
Adjustable valving allows you to dial in compression and or rebound a little better to suit terrain conditions, load, or driving preferences. Mid price point.
Custom tuned (custom valving) with external adjustability is the optimal choice. Most expensive but on the other hand better all-round performance and usability. Depends on your budget, use and tolerance for control.
IMO- Fixed valve shocks paired with the right spring combination can perform fine for most on road/off road needs. But adjustable or custom valved adjustable with external resivoir are optimal if you have budget. $300per corner vs $1200+ per corner is a big difference in investment. And that is the trade off.
Agreed on most points.
I’ve ridden in some properly setup FCP equipped LCs, and they do ride well.
I was cross shopping the FCPs for my son’s vehicle. From memory, when I was looking, the FCPs were ~$300 a corner, the IMS was ~$250 a corner, and the MRA was ~$500 a corner.
My three 100 series are setup slightly differently, one at +1” (21.5” rear), one at +2” (22.5” rear), and one at +2.75 (23.25” rear). There is very definitely a change in feel/behavior difference as you increase lift (same and even more pronounced in the front).
Fixed vs Adjustable - I’d argue that a shock with a single adjuster is pretty easy to dial-in in a short period of time. The three adjusters on the MRA take a bit more commitment and time. One could argue that the adjustment is really unnecessary, as once you get it set “just right” you’re unlikely to really touch it again, but it is really nice for getting it dialed-in, without the cost of “custom built and tuned” shocks.
Based on your set up- especially the 864 coils, I dont think you'll love the FCP for the reasons I previously mentioned in my set up. They will work, but not optimally with that weight- and 864's. My .02This is why I love mud. Great responses!
Firm and planted = right now it feels a little leggy and I want a bit more control on body lean/roll feel. So more support. That’s why I’m looking at FCP and these IMS vs Fox. Not sure if this helps explain or not… almost feels like I need more support to control the spring rate of coils/TBs.
I have 5 kids, so when loaded up with full fam, the heavy springs etc go to work.
I run OME 864 rear coils and OME 303001 TBs (heavy)
Also, the extended length of shock is appealing for my uses.
I hope that helps a bit more?