NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
And please, ignore my dumb comments from previously. I was super clueless then.
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there are really no dumb comments or questions when they come from newbs. but, when someone asks a question they've already asked n said they understand the answer, that's when i see redAnd please, ignore my dumb comments from previously. I was super clueless then.
How do you align the rear wheels?there are really no dumb comments or questions
string line, laser or any known straight edge along c/l of your truck frame. check both axles at wheel mount surface or c/l of spring perch to index c/l. that will let you know if the axles are centered across the longitude. next, find the c/l of the wheel base along the index c/l. from there, measure the diagonal to the c/l of axle at wheel mount surface on both sides, should be equal. i'm not sure what the factory +/_ is, but i'd be happy with 1/8". now if it's unacceptable, start checking mounting points. wallowed out bolt holes, broken centering pins, elongated center pin hole on the perch, loose u-bolts, baffed bushings, twisted spring hangers, bent spring shackles. repair as requiredHow do you align the rear wheels?
Rear wheels aren’t aligned. That’s why I said to ignore my post. The rear simply follow the front. Unless I’m still clueless.string line, laser or any known straight edge along c/l of your truck frame. check both axles at wheel mount surface or c/l of spring perch to index c/l. that will let you know if the axles are centered across the longitude. next, find the c/l of the wheel base along the index c/l. from there, measure the diagonal to the c/l of axle at wheel mount surface on both sides, should be equal. i'm not sure what the factory +/_ is, but i'd be happy with 1/8". now if it's unacceptable, start checking mounting points. wallowed out bolt holes, broken centering pins, elongated center pin hole on the perch, loose u-bolts, baffed bushings, twisted spring hangers, bent spring shackles. repair as required
clear as mud right? any ?s, i'll try to answer them
no, the rear wheels them selves are not aligned as to caster, camber or toe. the whole axle is squared to the front axle. yes, the rear will follow, but the closer you can get tire contact points to a perfectly square rectangle, the better handling n less wear + tear, namely tiresRear wheels aren’t aligned. That’s why I said to ignore my post. The rear simply follow the front. Unless I’m still clueless.
you quoted my comment so i took it as a legit ?. no worries mark n if it helps someone new to mechanized mayhem, namely these dinosaurs we enjoy, understand how some of this $h!t works, i'm cool with itI was trying to be stupid but apparently that was a valid question.
Be careful with this... Yes, you can't hurt the bar, but you can pop the ball out of the joint. I did this and had brand new tie rod ends, was down to the last one, of course it was stuck, so I got a big pipe wrench with a cheater bar and wrenched on it so hard, it broke the brand new 555 drag link. Popped the ball out of the joint. With further inspection, it actually broke the metal in the joint so it was not repairable. Had to buy another new one from cruiser outfitters for $65... since the bar wasn't attached to anything anymore, I was able to put the bar in the vice and got it loose with some BP blaster. Pain the aceholeYou can't really hurt the bar with a pipe wrench. If it's stuck use a big wrench..REALLY big if necessary.
Mine was so stuck one time, took it to a shop, put it on a lift & we both hung off the wrench & still no movement. Shop owner gave up. Took it back home & got the biggest pipe wrench I had, handle was probally 15-18 in long, got my really small $19 Harbor Freight floor jack to the handle. And it poped right loose. Once loose, then you can move the bar either way for proper adjustment. Like I said, you can't hurt that bar with a wrench.
Good write up Greg.
John