do your own alignment (1 Viewer)

[red62]

Unless you have indications in the handling that the caster is off, then it's not worth paying an alignment shop. Caster is only adjusted by stuffing tapered shims between the axle and the springs, and camber can't be adjusted.

The only other adjustment, and what a shop will charge you $50 to adjust is something you can do in an hour or so in your driveway. Here's how:

Toe in is very important, but easy to set. Measure up from the ground to the middle of the hub, then put a strip of masking tape across the front tires at the same height, front and rear. Then find the middle of the tread, you end up with a big + on the tires. Then just measure the distance between the + signs on the front and rear of the tire, adjust till the front is about 1/8" less than the rear. It really helps to have a second person to hold the other end of the tape steady on the other side of the truck.

This is similar to the official TSM procedure, but Toyota suggests measuring at the front of the tire, rotating the tires 180 deg and measuring the back side with the same marks, eliminating a few potential errors. Toe-in specs are given. It's hidden in the front axle (FA) section, not steering (SR) section. I have used it on my FJ40, FJ62 and FZJ80. It works well enough. For new tires, I go to the Toyota dealer ($80, and you get a print-out with caster and camber readings), but between new tires, I use this procedure when I change a tie-rod end or or get out of alignment somehow. I screwed it up once out of eight times so far.

see:
1984 Land Cruiser Repair Manual 36262E pg FA-4 item 5.
1988 Land Cruiser Repair Manual RM080U pg FA-3 item 5.

Good luck.

 

[Bomar]

Red62

Nice reply to a 10 yr old post....good luck

 

[red62]

Red62

Nice reply to a 10 yr old post....good luck

If you feel the thread is not worthwhile, ask that it be removed from FAQ. The fact that it is still in FAQ suggests some people think it is worthwhile, and it should at least include the fact that this is a FSM procedure, and safe if done correctly.

Also included in the 1996 manual.

 

[Spudman]

I didn't read the whole thread, so hopefully I'm not double posting, but I did my toe-in on both my 60 and 200 series.

I grabbed a flat piece of metal, I then used a arc welding rod and removed all the flux and then ground one end Down to a point and then bent it at 45 degrees and then welded it to the metal plate.

I then lifted both wheels off the ground and put the scribe under each wheel and spun the wheel making a perfect mark around the entire tyre. You can then easily measure the front and rear and get the toe-in right.

Spudman

 

[phoenix60]

I replaced tie-rod ends last fall, was too cold, lazy, and stoopid to do this, but I am gonna do it today!!!

Was not much warmer, rain/snow mix today and chilly but I finally got around to this. Used the roofing nail method. Definitely an easy job once you get the link bar turning. I had counted turns on the TRE install, but turns out it was 3/4" toe out! Much smoother now with 1/8" toe in thanks for this write up.

 

[lehiguy]

I use a paint roller extension handle because it's adjustable and will lock in place at a particular length. Then I check distance tire to tire in the back and again in the front, adjusting until it's correct.

 

[Ogremoody]

So you are way better off with an alignment tech doing the job. ( kinda what I do every day) That being said if you are going to shade tree it take a screw and run it thru a board so it sticks out the back. Jack up one tire just high enough to clear the board but not the screw point. While spinning the tire towards you pull the board until the screw point contacts the tire. Keep spinning and it will scribe a perfect line in the tread all the way around. Then repeat on other front tire. Now use two bricks or blocks of wood to measure that line at the same height front and rear. Although it should measure shorter in the front than the rear it is not the same measurement for every size tire. Really the only way to be 100% correct is an alignment tech with experience and an alignment machine. After 15 years as an alignment tech I might know a thing or two.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Booo on having an alignment tech do it.

I took my truck to a shop to swap tires and they put it on the rack for free. Said I had too much toe but couldn't adjust due to my tie-rod being too long (built it myself). I went home, fabricated a new one, set the toe with a measuring tape and brought it back to the shop to recheck. They did not believe that I aligned it myself because it was dead-nuts spot on.

When all you can adjust are the toe and steering wheel alignment, it's pretty hard to mess up.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I would love pixs of what to turn exactly. An earlier post on this thread appears to have had many photos but they are all x'd out now. I tried straightening my wheel today (and would like to do a toe-in as well) and after disconnecting the lower nut on the steering dampener, I was at a loss of what "now" to loosen... forgive my possibly ridiculous questions but I really need visuals. @GLTHFJ60, would you hook me up with pixs?

 

[Output Shaft]

Measure the distance between the front tires. Be sure you can replicate the measurement.
Loosen the two clamps at the ends of the lower horizontal bar. Then turn the bar two complete revolutions (720°) one way (don't remember which way). Then measure the distance at the same location again at the front tires.

If the distance is less after turning the rod, then that direction toes the tires in. And vice versa.

This thread then has all the info you need to adjust the toe.

The picture below shows the tie & relay rods on a FJ40, but the 60 is the same.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Measure the distance between the front tires. Be sure you can replicate the measurement.
Loosen the two clamps at the ends of the lower horizontal bar. Then turn the bar two complete revolutions (720°) one way (don't remember which way). Then measure the distance at the same location again at the front tires.

If the distance is less after turning the rod, then that direction toes the tires in. And vice versa.

This thread then has all the info you need to adjust the toe.

The picture below shows the tie & relay rods on a FJ40, but the 60 is the same.

View attachment 1284673

My damn ph isn't sending pixs and my usual go to peeps are most likely busy with holiday stuff. I do measure the rears as well as the front correct? My distance between my rear tires back edge to back edge is 74 2/8", my front tires are measuring 75 3/4" front edge to front edge. I attached a length of rod to all four tires, each are the exact height from the ground and are level. My measurements are so different from each other I want to be really sure I am doing this correct before I start twisting the bar. I understand the rear axle is less wide than front. Yay, or nay am I on the right track?

 

[Output Shaft]

There's several ways to do it.
I did mine as @Dynosoar mentioned previously.

Place a tack in the center of each tire. Mark the center of the tack.
Align the tire so both tacks are level with the hub in the front.
Measure that distance.
Rotate the tires 180°. Measure again.

I use a long piece of small diameter metal rod (1/4") to measure the relative distances between front and rear. The narrow rod can rest on top of the leaf springs in the rear, making the rear measurement easy. A flexible tape measure is a nightmare.

The toe in distance (the distance between the front of the tires vs the rear) should be slightly less in the front.

There are differing opinions as to what exactly that number should be, based on your tire size, but if the toe-in is 1/16"-1/4" you're ok.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Thank you. I somehow got it in my head that the rear tire edge to edge measurements was necessary but apparently they are irrelevant. I have wear on the inner edge of my rears, thinking camber, low tire pressure (gonna air them appropriately tmrw) or the toe in? Would front toe in or out cause the rears to wear like that?

 

[Output Shaft]

Rears as in rear tires?

 

[Output Shaft]

The rear tire alignment of course is not adjustable.

 

[Ogremoody]

Total toe is not adjustable in the rear. However thrust angle can be adjusted with offset shims and/or centering pins. I would suspect your inner edge wear is preexisting wear from the front when rotated combined with inadequate tire pressure. Or your rear axle housing is bent. If it was bearings in a semi or full floater it would wear the outside edge as toe goes positive as torque is applied to a loose bearing.

 

[bwiygul]

Total toe is not adjustable in the rear. However thrust angle can be adjusted with offset shims and/or centering pins. I would suspect your inner edge wear is preexisting wear from the front when rotated combined with inadequate tire pressure. Or your rear axle housing is bent. If it was bearings in a semi or full floater it would wear the outside edge as toe goes positive as torque is applied to a loose bearing.

Sorry to bump an old thread but in response to the “knowledgeable alighnment tech” comment you made 6 years ago, lol, I’ve had my truck into
Multiple shops for alignment to try to find the pull. Last guy told my my rear thrust was bad and that the truck must have been in an accident at some point but now I read it’s adjustable.... goes with everything, some guys have knowledge, MOST don’t.

 

[morganism]

Easiest one I have seen, is two cinder blocks on each tire, front and rear of tread. Set straightedge across, then tape measure across to identical setup on other side.

Best one used white spray paint on tire, to scribe center line into.

And this, from the bob the oil guy site:

First spin and put an accurate line around your front tires. The tread may be VERY accurate, or it may be off a little.

FWD: (With an automatic) with the engine idling in gear let the car pull itself ahead a few feet and snub it to a stop with the emergency brake (rear brakes, hopefully) this will preload the front tires to simulate highway use. Now, set toe in to ZERO

Backup, repeat until you have it without further adjustment.

RWD: with car in drive, let it roll ahead, stop it with regular brakes... this also preloads the front end to simulate highway driving (front tires being pulled back)

Set toe in to 0, repeat until it is 0 without adjustment.

You are now set to get up to 100,000 miles of tire life, assuming good tires and moderate driving practices. Our commuter Escort (using this method) went well past 100,000 miles on its Michelin X- ones, and still had legal tread depth.

I have used this method on every car I have owned, beginning with a 1941 Plymouth, BMW's, Toyota's, Fords, Chevy, Fiats, Opel... and always had VERY long tire life.

 

[morganism]

Speedway auto makes an adjustable stick, 70 bucks, n Longmore has a knockoff on amazo zoo.

I made a stick out of conduit an a pair of slip couplers for the old Ford, and if you have a busted tape measure, you can just rubber band a section against it. If you can find a double sided one, it will even fit the curve of the conduit better.

 

[Seth S]

This is quite the over the years thread. I just skimmed through it and have a couple of thoughts. The great thing about toe is that if there is too much toe in it just wears tires. Toe will auto center and not cause a pull like caster and camber can.


Next thought is I think this thread makes two assumptions. One being that your axles have not been off the truck recently and two that they are lined up properly.

The rear axle thrust angle is the angle between a perpendicular line off the center of the rear axle as compared to the center of the vehicle. If these two are not aligned it’s very possible that the front axle could be parallel to the rear but the truck will track oddly as the body will always be pointed in a different direction than the axles. It’s something you often see on tractor trailers where the trailer alignment is bad.

So the alignment places are usually checking that the wheel positions are relative to one another as well.