do your own alignment (1 Viewer)

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And please, ignore my dumb comments from previously. I was super clueless then.
 
i've used this method on all my yotas. tire life? never tracked it as tires were swapped n traded around quite a bit. controlwise, yeah you knew you had 35's or larger on, but with everything else up to snuff, control was on par with a stock truck for the most part
 
man page with tie rod arm lengths, but if the newer rods and TREs are diff lengths, how do we know where to center them?


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How do you align the rear wheels?
string line, laser or any known straight edge along c/l of your truck frame. check both axles at wheel mount surface or c/l of spring perch to index c/l. that will let you know if the axles are centered across the longitude. next, find the c/l of the wheel base along the index c/l. from there, measure the diagonal to the c/l of axle at wheel mount surface on both sides, should be equal. i'm not sure what the factory +/_ is, but i'd be happy with 1/8". now if it's unacceptable, start checking mounting points. wallowed out bolt holes, broken centering pins, elongated center pin hole on the perch, loose u-bolts, baffed bushings, twisted spring hangers, bent spring shackles. repair as required
clear as mud right? any ?s, i'll try to answer them
 
string line, laser or any known straight edge along c/l of your truck frame. check both axles at wheel mount surface or c/l of spring perch to index c/l. that will let you know if the axles are centered across the longitude. next, find the c/l of the wheel base along the index c/l. from there, measure the diagonal to the c/l of axle at wheel mount surface on both sides, should be equal. i'm not sure what the factory +/_ is, but i'd be happy with 1/8". now if it's unacceptable, start checking mounting points. wallowed out bolt holes, broken centering pins, elongated center pin hole on the perch, loose u-bolts, baffed bushings, twisted spring hangers, bent spring shackles. repair as required
clear as mud right? any ?s, i'll try to answer them
Rear wheels aren’t aligned. That’s why I said to ignore my post. The rear simply follow the front. Unless I’m still clueless.
 
I was trying to be stupid but apparently that was a valid question.
 
Rear wheels aren’t aligned. That’s why I said to ignore my post. The rear simply follow the front. Unless I’m still clueless.
no, the rear wheels them selves are not aligned as to caster, camber or toe. the whole axle is squared to the front axle. yes, the rear will follow, but the closer you can get tire contact points to a perfectly square rectangle, the better handling n less wear + tear, namely tires
 
Yup, Pythagoras was there.

Wish i could find my book, "the doorhangers bible", it had all the tricks for squaring stuff up....
 
On a land cruiser the only rear alignment is to make sure the axle is centered side to side or as indicated by the FSM, and that the axle is perpendicular to the frame. Its possible to have all 4 wheels aligned and have crooked offset axles. Some vehicles do have alignment options on the rear wheels...mostly to set toe and camber.
 
I could not get the rod end centers all the way out to 1267mm. Ended up at 49.75, 1265 mm.

Evened both rims to the spring packs, got 10" on drivers side, 9 7\8 on pass. Then cranked in on the rod when both were hooked back up, 180, and got a 16th on the toe in.

Axle hanger to hubs seems 1/2 in diff on pass and drivers side.

Is close, looks nearly the same, but much easier turning.
Used a laser cross after dark, and just skimming rear wheels toward front, looks like drivers side camber is out more than pass.
 
I take off the tires and use measurements for the front and rear of the rotors, making the front measurement one-quarter inch* less than the rear = good toe-in adjustment.

* I have 37x12.5 tires. Exact amount of outset may be different from mine. 1/4” is my sweet spot. :)
 
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