Drag link and tie rod end replacement.

HemiAlex

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I wand to replace all of the tie rod end and steering drag link items.

Can someone break down what they are commonly referred to as? I see 5 pieces, but I can only find three on line with rock auto etc.




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Not every place carries all of the pieces. Cruiser Outfitters and others can sell you all of them at once. I often find that the pitman arm piece not sold likely due to it being very specific to this vehicle and thus a rather rare part.

Frank
 

HemiAlex

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I see. I guess I can't cheap my way out of this one.

I'll call Kurt.
 

gregnash

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I see. I guess I can't cheap my way out of this one.

I'll call Kurt.
There are a few thing that you don't want to cheap out on.... anything that is braking, steering or drivetrain related I don't cheap out on. Last thing you want is an inferior part in the mix that could possibly leave you stranded or worse, injured.
 

HemiAlex

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I've been pushing to get as much OEM as possible. Slave/Master for clutch I was able to get Aisin from Rockauto as well as my Cap/Rotor/wires/plugs etc.

I'll get an order ready for the tie rod ends when order the Birfield rebuild.
 

gregnash

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I'll get an order ready for the tie rod ends when order the Birfield rebuild.
Are you talking the knuckle rebuild? Then yes it would be wise to do at the same time. Realize that once you replace the TREs you will need an alignment, there is also a certain TRE removal tool that you should borrow or purchase to make the job easier... I started on mine and started banging on them with a BFH but after a few minutes when the first one didn't release I said screw it because they were that bad. A Puller set is on my "to buy" list of tools so when that happens I will change them out.
 
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TRE set isn't really that expensive in relation to lots of parts on these trucks. Like gregnash said, it would be more efficient to do them when the front end is already torn apart for the knuckle job. x2 on the pickle fork as well - Harbor Freight for like $15...it took that AND a BFH and some manly hammering to free mine.
 

DFXR

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This puller works very well on the 60 series TREs. I did mine a few months ago with it and it worked easily on all the joints. But it's around $40, more expensive than a pickle fork.

OTC Puller: part # 7315A

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Agree with El Ripster - aligning in a flat driveway or garage is pretty easy and will save you money. It's necessary after doing TREs and/or knuckles. Check the FAQ's for "Do Your Own Alignment". I do the version where you clamp lengths of angle to the rotors and measure side to side. It's described in detail in the FAQ thread.

Though if you've got brand new tires it might be worth it to have it done professionally, if only for peace of mind.
 
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I used a pitman arm puller to remove mine. take apart the TREs and grease them manually and then reassemble them prior to installation- sometimes it is hard to get them to fill with grease once they're in place and under load. Do not forget to adjust them- so many guys think they can just swap a part out, and don't realize they must also calibrate them(TREs and TPSs). pull the pin out, tighten screw till it bottoms out then back off a half turn, replace pin, done. (this part must be done AFTER installation)
 

gregnash

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I used a pitman arm puller to remove mine. take apart the TREs and grease them manually and then reassemble them prior to installation- sometimes it is hard to get them to fill with grease once they're in place and under load. Do not forget to adjust them- so many guys think they can just swap a part out, and don't realize they must also calibrate them(TREs and TPSs). pull the pin out, tighten screw till it bottoms out then back off a half turn, replace pin, done. (this part must be done AFTER installation)
@LAMBCRUSHER this is the first I have heard of the "calibration" part of the install. Got a good video or written source on where/how to do this?
 
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install TRE, pull cotter pin, drive big cap screw all the way home and back it off a half turn- I then turned the wheels from stop to stop a couple times and double checked the adjustment- then reinstall the cotter pin...couple more shots of grease thru the zerk. then check for toe in...
 

SteveH

 
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I had an apparently-tight FJ62 TRE pop apart on a trail last summer (the ball came out of the socket), and bought 2 new OEM Toyota outer TREs. I had to saw them a bit shorter, as they would not screw all the way into my tie rod. Toyota modified the TREs (over the years) to have more threaded engagement length, which won't easily thread into a crusty, old tie rod. During this process, I disassembled and inspected the adjustable links and they appeared un-worn, so I just replaced the two outer TREs. Steering is tight as can be, according to the alignment shop.
 

DFXR

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It's not difficult, but it's also not as simple as unbolting and bolting. You may have to use heat to get the original ends off (unless you get new rods). Even that's not too bad because they'll be off the truck and you can put them in a vise. You'll need to get your steering wheel straight and do your alignment when you're done. But all in all, it's just a bunch of grunt work, not much finesse required. Do yourself a favor and get a tool for pulling - pickle fork, puller, whatever.
 
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