Events/Trails DIY Turbo V1.0, Boosted 80 = Happiness

[2KCruiser]

Yes, I installed both AEM Wide Band, Boost, and Water Temp. They all data log. So far the AFR's been near perfect. Boost comes on and it drops down to 11.5 - 12. At full boost it sits anywhere from 10.2-10.9 like clockwork. The highest temps I got were just under 200 with A/C and 95+ degrees out. Still no CEL. I can say this has been one of the easiest turbo installs I have ever done with out any hickups.

 

[lilevo]

Did you get your AFR solution installed? Just a gauge or can you log it? Since you're using the stock computer I would be a little worried about high afr's in closed loop

Also at 10psi with a big turbo you might be past the point of MAF saturation. And have to go to the larger MAF housing like we told lilevo to do. If you haven't read his thread, it's a good read, even though the turbo placement is different he has faced some of the same issues you will face as you add more boost.

Open loop = wide open. Think wide open throttle
Closed loop = cruising

He doesn't seem to be at the saturation point. You will definitely know when that happens. The truck won't accelerate anymore and will feel like you hit a brick wall. It will basically shut off and stop moving when at wide open throttle.

I would be very interested in seeing dyno numbers for this setup. From the video, I would estimate somewhere around 200-230awhp, guessing on the generous side.

 

[scottryana]

Yep I know what open and closed loop is. Lol.


In closed loop the truck uses O2 sensors to maintain a 14.7 AFR. Too high for a boosted truck. In Open loop I think he will be fine because the truck dumps fuel.

I don't think he will hit saturation on his current turbo. But with his bigger turbo at 10psi I think he will.

Time will tell I guess. And I am also curious to see the dyno, I am guessing 70hp over stock.

 

[lilevo]

Ok, I thought you meant the other way around. Closed loop 14.7 AFR is fine and what it should be under all conditions under 0psi.

You are still in closed loop part throttle above 0psi and that's where the problem is unless you have an AEM FIC, URD FTC, etc, etc. From 0 to whatever psi while still in part throttle you need it to be 12-13 AFR.

 

[scottryana]

Yeah but you can still be boosting under load and in closed loop. Think about setting your cruise control at 75mph and going up a hill. Your TPS nor your RPMs will trigger open loop. I just like to see a lower AFR under boost that is all.

I think we are saying the same thing.

 

[lilevo]

I overlaid the two videos, in imovie and there is a 2 sec difference from 15mph-60mph. 2KCruisers is 12.2, my truck is 14 seconds. Lilevo's truck with a more traditional turbo layout, and some tweaking did it twice as fast in 6.7 seconds. Not super scientific but there you go.

So that they are all in the same place:

Stock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRG0WUj8BMw

2KCruiser's Rear mount, at the current settings ~6.5lbs boost:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW_62C-kgNc

Lilevo's, turbo manifold, injectors and tune:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=US&client=mv-google&hl=en&v=cY9eNjcbxJE&feature=plcp&nomobile=1

Here is another 0-60mph video after the dyno session for comparison sake:

http://youtu.be/JuvjhjHjry8

 

[scottryana]

Nice. Using the same unscientific method, of matching the videos up in imovie, you are about 6.7 seconds 15-60, 2KCruiser is 12.2 seconds and my truck stock was just over 14 seconds. One thing I did notice is that at 15mph indicated on the speedo, the trucks are showing different RPM's on the tach.

Lilevo - 2500rpm
2kCruiser - 2200rpm
my truck - 2350 rpm

By 60mph 2kCruiser and my truck are back to 4200rpms and you are still just slightly higher at 4300rpms. Wonder if that is part of the Transgo kit that you did? I just ordered that kit along with my gauges so I guess I can find out after I install it.

I think I might start one master Turbo thread with all the different Turbo's people have done and link back to your guys build threads?

 

[lilevo]

Probably the F/IC 8 and it's RPM/Tacho calibration method. Might be reading slightly higher. The o.p I think has bigger tires and I also have bigger than stock. 285/75/16s which could effect the MPH reading.

 

[scottryana]

No it won't effect the indicated MPH, it would only effect the actual ground speed. The truck doesn't know what size tires it has. But I didn't know you were using the FI/C 8's speedo calibration, and in that case your truck should read lower RPM's at the same indicated speed because it would be compensating for the ~6% diff in stock to 285 tire size. I am on 315s

Not a big deal, just something I noticed, when I was lining up the videos. I have an old version of imovie, but if someone has a new version, they can put them side by side.

 

[lilevo]

No it won't effect the indicated MPH, it would only effect the actual ground speed. The truck doesn't know what size tires it has. But I didn't know you were using the FI/C 8's speedo calibration, and in that case your truck should read lower RPM's at the same indicated speed because it would be compensating for the ~6% diff in stock to 285 tire size. I am on 315s

Not a big deal, just something I noticed, when I was lining up the videos. I have an old version of imovie, but if someone has a new version, they can put them side by side.

No, not using the F/IC speedo frequency thing. The RPM signal is modified in the F/IC 8 and you need to hold a certain RPM for several seconds during calibration before the tacho will work. If the RPM's aren't held perfectly then it could effect what RPM is shown.

 

[alia176]

I think I might start one master Turbo thread with all the different Turbo's people have done and link back to your guys build threads?

 

[socallove]

Hello, don't know if this has been asked, I read through the entire thread but didn't catch it.
Does this turbo kit improve MPG on this vehicle?

 

[2KCruiser]

So far I have been getting about the same MPG's. However I have not been driving the same since I do like the sound of the spooling turbo. But since the fuel system is untouched as well as the ECU, I would suspect under normal driving conditions you should see better MPG's. But it will be very minimal since avg is 12-14 in the city.

 

[Buckru]

Dyno?

 

[nigelsiam]

So how is the progress of the project going? It looks like you are using this as a daily driver so I am assuming it's working rather well? I would love to get a bit more info or at least how close you are coming to possibly offering this as a kit? I love simple, thoughtful way you have done this.

 

[2KCruiser]

Yeah, I have been using it as my daily. It has been about 2 months now that its been on and still working great. MPG's have not suffered. No check engine lights, no issues at all. I really can't imagine driving without it anymore. I have a couple mud members that are interested on a complete install. I was planning on installing those kits first on their rigs and then having them give their own opinions on the upgrade. Then I was also planning on doing a DIY kinda kit that includes everything you need to piece and weld together. You can call me anytime if you have any questions, my contact info is at 2KRacing.com, just ask for John.

 

[2KCruiser]

Dyno?

No Dyno since I have not found a 4wd dyno nearby. Some people have told me to remove the front axles and lock the center diff, but I don't really want to do that and still drive about 1 hour each way without front axles. If anyone is local, stop on by and we can go for a test drive, FREE butt dyno.

 

[scottryana]

No not the front axles. The front driveshaft.

 

[2KCruiser]

Sorry, meant shaft

 

[lilevo]

No Dyno since I have not found a 4wd dyno nearby. Some people have told me to remove the front axles and lock the center diff, but I don't really want to do that and still drive about 1 hour each way without front axles. If anyone is local, stop on by and we can go for a test drive, FREE butt dyno.

Few bolts and nuts and it comes out. Do it at the dyno facility.