DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (1 Viewer)
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Local dealer (molle, kc) wanted $440 to do heater hoses and tees.
i asked them as ive an annular tear around spine and need to refrain from twisting.
even worse, the service advisor didnt know what “heater tees” were when i mentioned it.
surely this job can be tackled with or without sturdy vertebrae
i asked them as ive an annular tear around spine and need to refrain from twisting.
even worse, the service advisor didnt know what “heater tees” were when i mentioned it.
surely this job can be tackled with or without sturdy vertebrae
I'm just as cheap as the next guy but that price actually seems fairly reasonable - especially if it includes the partsLocal dealer (molle, kc) wanted $440 to do heater hoses and tees.
i asked them as ive an annular tear around spine and need to refrain from twisting.
even worse, the service advisor didnt know what “heater tees” were when i mentioned it.
surely this job can be tackled with or without sturdy vertebrae
Local dealer (molle, kc) wanted $440 to do heater hoses and tees.
i asked them as ive an annular tear around spine and need to refrain from twisting.
even worse, the service advisor didnt know what “heater tees” were when i mentioned it.
surely this job can be tackled with or without sturdy vertebrae
The easiest way to replace both hoses and Tees would be to remove them as 'units', use the intact units as templates to build the new ones (on a bench) then install the new units. That way you are not bent over the back of the engine doing it piece by piece.
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Tackled this job today. I hadn't read every single page of this thread, but I read many of them. Nevertheless I still got tripped up! Some of the things I'm saying here are in various posts in this thread, but just wanted to reiterate some key items I ran into today:
The rig:
2001 LX470 with 250k miles. Purchased a year ago with spotty service records so I wanted to get this job done.
Teeeeees
I LOVE the idea of a metal T. However, I was nervous about the different diameters of the metal T's not matching the hoses exactly. So I went with Toyota plastic. The previous lasted 22 years and 250k miles, so I figured we can do that again
Clamps
Oh man, what a mess. As previous posters have mentioned, Partsouq (and I believe other parts diagrams) are WRONG! You don't need 96136-52101! The "upper" hoses are thicker than the two hoses that run down towards the ground. The parts catalogs say you need 96136-52101 for one side of the upper hoses. 96136-52101 is for a smaller diameter hose. What you actually need is 8x 96134-42100.
96136-52101 appears to be very similar to 90467-19022 which is used for the hoses that run to the ground. In either case you don't need 96136-52101. And 90467-19022 works fine for the hoses at the bottom of the T.
I was bummed out finding this out today, but I ended up just using reusing 4x of the old clamps and so far appears to be fine.
Hoses
This one is mostly my fault, but I messed up and got 87245-6A800 (for 2003+) instead of 87245-6A201 (for 99-02). The good news is that it was VERY close to the one that was already on there. So I just went with it.
If you make the same mistake you can see in this post here the hoses are all pretty similar (Thanks TLCPNW!):
forum.ih8mud.com
The labor:
I didn't have top crawler or sheet of plywood but was still able to get this done. Don't let the lack of these things stop you from doing this job. I bought the cheap hose clamp plyer set on amazon which kind of worked. I also just used a regular set of needle nose and regular pliers which also worked well.
As everyone else has said I HIGHLY recommend replacing the hoses as part of this job. That being said, I still tried to use a hose pick to see if I could get off the hoses. Just for the heck of it I bought this $2 set of mini picks from Harbor Freight and they actually worked pretty well! Mini Pick and Hook Set - https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/specialty-hand-tools/picks-hooks-tweezers-probes/pick-sets/mini-pick-and-hook-set-63697.html These came in handy when my bigger set couldn't get behind a hose well. I also just cut some of the trickier hoses to get them off as I didn't want to bend or break a tube.
Gory T Picture
And yes, my drivers side T snapped off SO easy when I started messing with the clips. VERY glad I did this job.
The rig:
2001 LX470 with 250k miles. Purchased a year ago with spotty service records so I wanted to get this job done.
Teeeeees
I LOVE the idea of a metal T. However, I was nervous about the different diameters of the metal T's not matching the hoses exactly. So I went with Toyota plastic. The previous lasted 22 years and 250k miles, so I figured we can do that again
Clamps
Oh man, what a mess. As previous posters have mentioned, Partsouq (and I believe other parts diagrams) are WRONG! You don't need 96136-52101! The "upper" hoses are thicker than the two hoses that run down towards the ground. The parts catalogs say you need 96136-52101 for one side of the upper hoses. 96136-52101 is for a smaller diameter hose. What you actually need is 8x 96134-42100.
96136-52101 appears to be very similar to 90467-19022 which is used for the hoses that run to the ground. In either case you don't need 96136-52101. And 90467-19022 works fine for the hoses at the bottom of the T.
I was bummed out finding this out today, but I ended up just using reusing 4x of the old clamps and so far appears to be fine.
Hoses
This one is mostly my fault, but I messed up and got 87245-6A800 (for 2003+) instead of 87245-6A201 (for 99-02). The good news is that it was VERY close to the one that was already on there. So I just went with it.
If you make the same mistake you can see in this post here the hoses are all pretty similar (Thanks TLCPNW!):
Heater Hose T's - Do NOT Wait!!!
Years 1998-2002 87245-6A180 x1 87245-6A210 x1 87245-6A190 x1 87245-6A220 x1 87245-6A201 x1 99556-20200 x1 Years 2002-2006 87245-6A180 x 1 87245-6A210 x 1 87245-6A190 x 1 87245-6A220 x 1 87245-6A800 x 1 99556-20155 x 1 @beno can confirm. I thought I messed up and ordered the wrong parts for my...
forum.ih8mud.com
The labor:
I didn't have top crawler or sheet of plywood but was still able to get this done. Don't let the lack of these things stop you from doing this job. I bought the cheap hose clamp plyer set on amazon which kind of worked. I also just used a regular set of needle nose and regular pliers which also worked well.
As everyone else has said I HIGHLY recommend replacing the hoses as part of this job. That being said, I still tried to use a hose pick to see if I could get off the hoses. Just for the heck of it I bought this $2 set of mini picks from Harbor Freight and they actually worked pretty well! Mini Pick and Hook Set - https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/specialty-hand-tools/picks-hooks-tweezers-probes/pick-sets/mini-pick-and-hook-set-63697.html These came in handy when my bigger set couldn't get behind a hose well. I also just cut some of the trickier hoses to get them off as I didn't want to bend or break a tube.
Gory T Picture
And yes, my drivers side T snapped off SO easy when I started messing with the clips. VERY glad I did this job.
I just saw on FB someone posted about this metal T replacement called the AUTOTECNICA TY0617365PRM or TY0617365-PRM:
I will admit I haven't read all 43 pages of this thread, but I don't recall seeing this one mentioned before? Appears to have the exact same appearance as the stock? Which means you could use stock hoses and clamps?
Might have to order a set just to see them in person. Maybe this is the holy grail replacement?
I will admit I haven't read all 43 pages of this thread, but I don't recall seeing this one mentioned before? Appears to have the exact same appearance as the stock? Which means you could use stock hoses and clamps?
Might have to order a set just to see them in person. Maybe this is the holy grail replacement?
Jack90210
SILVER Star
Yep, I'm thinking the same thing.
Noticed a puddle of coolant under my cruiser, it looked like I had enough coolant so I drove to the auto zone 10 minutes away to get a pressure testing kit to find where the leak was coming from. On my way back I noticed I started to overheat and pulled over right away. I got stranded but luckily in my own neighborhood. One of the tees was pretty much snapped off, wish I looked at this thread sooner 
I got some really nice metal ones off rock auto by that name. Look exactly like oem except metal. I like 'em. And they did fit perfectly with the hoses and clamps. I only replaced the tees when I did it.
I did T's and hoses this past weekend. 2003 lx470 with 160k miles. Got the OEM hoses and T's as a kit from Wits-end (link below). Followed tips listed throughout this thread - thanks to all the contributors!
- Some plywood with moving blanket on top of the engine made for a nice platform to do the work.
- Removed hoses and t's as a whole unit (t's broke in the process of removal). I cut some of the hoses off as they were very stuck to the truck side aluminum pipes.
- Reassembled new hoses and t's on my bench first but didn't tighten clamps until all assembled on truck to allow hoses to rotate a little to their natural orientations.
- Some plywood with moving blanket on top of the engine made for a nice platform to do the work.
- Removed hoses and t's as a whole unit (t's broke in the process of removal). I cut some of the hoses off as they were very stuck to the truck side aluminum pipes.
- Reassembled new hoses and t's on my bench first but didn't tighten clamps until all assembled on truck to allow hoses to rotate a little to their natural orientations.
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For what it's worth, installed these brass generic ¨Joywayus 3/4"x5/8"x3/4" ID Hose Reducing Barb Tee 3 Way Union Fitting Intersection/Split Brass Water/Fuel/Air" 3 years ago together with new stock hoses on a 99 LC100. Looks like the same are still available on amazon.
Are these parts fakes? The Japan looks suspect. Bought from eBay.
The texture and rough edge at the fitting looks kind of strange.
The ones I just got from Toyota dealer the finish was smooth/shiny.
Definitely not Toyota OEM.
Nice picture of what they should look like here...
New OEM Pack of 2 Toyota Land Cruiser LX470 UZJ100 Sienna Heater Tee 87248-60460
Specializing in Toyota Land Cruiser Used Auto Parts and Accessories - CruiserYard - Austin, Texas, USA
I've never seen OEM parts come in anything but a clear package with the red and white label. Plus, like someone above said, those are WAY crude looking for Toyota parts! They should be smooth and satin-to-shiny in appearance.
Thanks everyone. I’ve ordered new parts from the Lexus dealer. I’ll post a side by side when I get em.
Those would be going back to the ebay seller if it was me.
