DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (2 Viewers)

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Anyone have reference to the proper OEM hose clamps part # to be used ??



I see the parts diagram calls for 96136-52101 but.......

The two hoses and barb on the heater T going downward smaller diameter than the topside .


I believe the topside takes clamp #96316-42501 ( silver and larger diameter)

And the smaller lower hoses take # 96136-52101 ( black and smaller diameter)


Anyone agree ?
 
Mike NXP said:
Anyone have reference to the proper OEM hose clamps part # to be used ??



I see the parts diagram calls for 96136-52101 but.......

The two hoses and barb on the heater T going downward smaller diameter than the topside .


I believe the topside takes clamp #96316-42501 ( silver and larger diameter)

And the smaller lower hoses take # 96136-52101 ( black and smaller diameter)


Anyone agree ?
Click to expand...
absolute-wits-end.com

100 Series 2UZ Heater Hose Kit

100 Series 2UZ Heater Hose Kit (HHK-1)
absolute-wits-end.com absolute-wits-end.com
 
medtro said:
absolute-wits-end.com

100 Series 2UZ Heater Hose Kit

100 Series 2UZ Heater Hose Kit (HHK-1)
absolute-wits-end.com absolute-wits-end.com
Click to expand...
Hmm and yet another part number in the mix. The number listed on witts end doesn't show up on partsouq so it must have changed . Idk ... I think I'm good to go either way, bigger clamps up top smaller clamps down low
 
PO used these kind of clamps which I am not a big fan. However it is not leaking and Ts look newish.
Anyone had problems with these type of setup?

17703D49-5109-479C-B089-469B1628B475.jpeg
 
GVegasG said:
PO used these kind of clamps which I am not a big fan. However it is not leaking and Ts look newish.
Anyone had problems with these type of setup?

View attachment 3310430
Click to expand...
My PO did the same, and I'm in the exact same boat with newish looking tees. I'll eventually be swapping out to stainless tees and silicone heater hoses, and will use the same type of worm clamps. They're a little harder to service, but less prone to leaking with non-OEM materials like silicone hoses.
 
Silicone hoses with metal Ts will make it future proof!
 
ClassyJalopy said:
Silicone hoses with metal Ts will make it future proof!
Click to expand...
Actually,
I was browsing the internet doing research in prep for swapping out my radiator hoses and ran across an article discussing that silicone hoses are porous and have been shown to cause slow coolant loss over time. I may have to reconsider silicone heater hoses (even though I already have them sitting ready for install). Stainless steel tees though are still a go!

*Edit- heres a link to the article:

Silicone Radiator Hoses: Not for the Street - MotoIQ

I noticed that there are more and more “manufacturers” of silicone radiator hoses. We can thank China for finally figuring out a silicone formula that is similar to Samco’s silicone…
motoiq.com motoiq.com
 
I can probably be quoted somewhere on this forum saying how I like to live dangerously and refuse to change my T's

Well I got bored and a little paranoid and decided to finally swap out all the hoses and T's. The passenger side T crumbled. The driver side was OK.


Here is my feedback on the job and parts needed:

  • It was a knuckle buster but not impossible. Take your time and be careful not to lean on anything fragile.
  • I parked next to my stone retaining wall so I was up a good foot or so and that helped a lot getting back to the hoses
  • A hose clamp tool like this here did help for almost all of the clamps
  • Keep a jug of water nearby. IDK I just hate when coolant drips on electronics and other bits and just kind of rots. When some coolant pisses out I just splash some water down after it. Stuff a few towels over the electronics on top of the transmission harness as well

  • Alright so the top hoses use the larger clamps -#96316-42501 ( silver and larger diameter)
  • The bottom hoses use the smaller clamps # 96136-52101 ( black and smaller diameter)
    >> Toyota parts diagram shows all clamps being the larger size and it will probably work but I removed smaller clamps from the bottom. The T and hose is also smaller diameter. The clamps come pre-compresses which is really nice
  • Don't bother trying to save old hoses, just swap all of the parts out and be done with it for another 200k miles.

  • OK you will most likely have some stuck hoses, don't force anything. I ended up cutting my hoses about 6 inches above all of the tubing. With this allows more room to work and I can get a pair of vice grips on each hose. A few shots of silicone lube and some twisting and it broke loose
    >> I found these for a while before realizing I can just cut and vice grip.
  • The firewall has a little bolt that holds the lines and hoses running towards the bottom, It's easier to loosen that and take the mount off that bolt for more wiggle room.
 
2007 LC with 252K on the clock. Just picked it up last week and although it came with a large maint. folder i saw nothing of the Heater T's being done. Got some stainless T's and some hose clamps i had laying around and sent it.

no leaks, and im very glad i did so.
D48060EC-8949-48E0-B0C8-9D6926A311D9.JPG
 
I will beat the drum yet again....

At every 90k TB/WP change just add factory T's and hoses to the list. You should be doing upper and lower rad hoses anyway. And do the oil cooler hose too.

Do that, and never, ever an issue with Ts and hoses. Just as the Toyota gods intended.

Keep the Cruiser Faith !

R.
 
Somehow, the first T that I tried today was 5/8 x 5/8 x 5/8, and not 5/8 x 5/8 x 1/2, so I’m all confused.
 
zcostilla said:
Somehow, the first T that I tried today was 5/8 x 5/8 x 5/8, and not 5/8 x 5/8 x 1/2, so I’m all confused.
Click to expand...
Post more details .

The tee you removed was that size or the tee you purchased to replace it ? OEM or aftermarket?
 
Mike NXP said:
Post more details .

The tee you removed was that size or the tee you purchased to replace it ? OEM or aftermarket?
Click to expand...
I bought 5/8 x 5/8 x 1/2 because that was what this thread showed, but the bottom hose was way too loose, and when I measured the T with my calipers it was a 5/8” fitting as well.
 
Well, I got the OEM T's and thank goodness. The one that didn’t fit before fit perfectly. But the left one disintegrated as soon as I tried to work the clamps. I think I got all the old plastic on the front side, which goes to the block, but I don’t know if that’s “send” or “return” to what looks like the heater core. The lower house came out just fine. But the firewall side also snapped off and I cannot get the hose disconnected at the other end.
 
We’ll everything has held up as far as no leaks, but one is oozing a little so it looks like I should’ve replaced the hose as well.

IMG_1559.jpeg
 
Would a 2005 Tundra with a V8 have the same heater T issue?
 
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