DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (8 Viewers)

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Undoubtedly counterfeit. Pics below. Thank you gents for the review.
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Just being curious: what was the difference in price between the fake and the real?
I bought the fakes months ago from eBay and paid $25 for the pair. I don’t recall if I was having issues finding them elsewhere at that time. Of course the listing insisted they were OEM. Since that purchase I’ve been getting OEM parts from Prestige Lexus of Ramsey since they have free shipping on most items. Paid $19 for a real pair from Prestige this week.
 
I bought the fakes months ago from eBay and paid $25 for the pair. I don’t recall if I was having issues finding them elsewhere at that time. Of course the listing insisted they were OEM. Since that purchase I’ve been getting OEM parts from Prestige Lexus of Ramsey since they have free shipping on most items. Paid $19 for a real pair from Prestige this week.
That is one oof those stories that absolutely SUX!
 
At the end of the day I’m out $25 bucks but avoided installing junk thanks to this forum. This is probably the least expensive lesson I’ll pay for on this cruiser. 🍻
Avoid the junk...keep the rig on the road...or trail!
 
Reinforcing the public service announcement here. Guessing these are original tees, 195K miles on them. Put in some new OEM.

A traeger drip pan liner works pretty good to catch the coolant. Parked facing downhill to have to coolant pitched to the radiator. Sprayed hoses and clamps with soapy water and put the rig in Lo mode before starting. Also, make sure you’re about 7 feet tall and you’ll have no issues!

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I used theses in 2019 and squeezed the clamps hard on the hoses.
2 days ago i did a 3 gallon pink coolant drain and fill.
this morning there was coolant leaking under the car, later at the office too.
The bottom hose of the Ts (in the hot side) looks ripped under the clamp, even though I didn't squeeze it further since 2019.


The hose might be deteriorating due to age, but anyone thinking of using the metal Ts, make sure you find a size matching the Toyota Ts so you dont have to over tighten the clamps.
 
My understanding to make this work reliably is that it needs the matched aftermarket hoses cut to fit. I'm not sure if the Toyota constant tension clamps will work with this setup or smaller ones need to be found. Often times the problem with the worm clamps is that they can eventually cut into the hose as they are tightened down.
 
Often times the problem with the worm clamps is that they can eventually cut into the hose as they are tightened down.

I think this is what happened to me + the hose might be old too!
And I turned on the heater for front and back vents to circulate new coolant the night before I parked it and found the leak in the morning.
 
There's no VIN tag on the driver's B pillar? No VIN tag visible through the windshield on the driver's side?

My Canadian LX had it there so that's the first place I checked, but no VIN in both places.

No leaks on the ground today, does it happen only when i turn the heat for back seats?
I still want the part number so i replace it.
 
My Canadian LX had it there so that's the first place I checked, but no VIN in both places.

No leaks on the ground today, does it happen only when i turn the heat for back seats?
I still want the part number so i replace it.
Hmmmm. Interesting.

FWIW, if you decide to keep your metal T setup, you might want to look into some European hose clamps. They're also worm drive, but they don't have gear holes that go through the clamp band, and they have rolled edges to prevent the band from digging into the hoses like the ones in the photo can do (the "Breeze" type.) The brand I've used with great success is Norma (example: https://www.amazon.com/NORMA-012667...9IlCOluBajd-F0jXnUkraRQ0GFUhza8oaAkvbEALw_wcB )
 

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