Heater Hose T's - Do NOT Wait!!! (2 Viewers)

[TLCPNW]

Years 1998-2002
87245-6A180 x1
87245-6A210 x1
87245-6A190 x1
87245-6A220 x1
87245-6A201 x1
99556-20200 x1

Years 2002-2006
87245-6A180 x 1
87245-6A210 x 1
87245-6A190 x 1
87245-6A220 x 1
87245-6A800 x 1
99556-20155 x 1

@beno can confirm.

I thought I messed up and ordered the wrong parts for my 2000 Land Cruiser so I ordered the "correct" parts and they seem to be the same minus a few little differences. In the other Heater Ts thread the only numbers I really see are the above numbers for years 2002-2006 and I didn't see anyone post in that thread that they ordered parts that didn't fit. My guess is since they are essentially the same, there shouldn't be any problems with using either "set".

So I ordered parts 87245-6A800 and 99556-20155 vs 87245-6A201 and 99556-20200.

 

[tacoduck]

I just did my 01 with 200k on the T's, and my 07 with 280k on the ticker. Hoses looked fine, so I reused em.

 

[fooldall1]

How many T's and clamps are needed in total? 6 T and 12 clamps?

 

[Dwight S]

There are two tees. 6 clamps per tee assembly, total of 12 clamps.

 

[tacoduck]

I bought the metal heater T's on amazon. Im a sucker for easy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DCNGIS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For both trucks, parts of the heater T ended up being stuck in the hose. I used my vice grips to squeeze the end the hose to break loose the stuck in heater T. One less thing to worry about!

 

[JPS]

Had my T break after I pulled into Sam's club. I returned with some food to find the red fluid of death draining from underneath my 470. Popped the hood and could see nothing going on, as the engine had cooled down. Looked underneath and started to piece together what had happened as I found the dripping source of the red fluid. At first I was thinking transmission failure! Backed across the parking lot to make sure the transmission was still functional and that's when I popped the hood and saw fluid spraying from the T....once there was some pressure built up. This was at 160k . The T, although cracked, when no pressure is in the system, hides the crack well inside the hose. Easy not to catch, would be a disaster on a road or trail trip.

 

[fooldall1]

There are two tees. 6 clamps per tee assembly, total of 12 clamps.

Thanks man!

 

[kolyo]

I got these T's today and the packaging did't carry the Toyota label or "Made in Japan" written on it. At the parts shop where I ordered them the salesman assured me they were OEM. I paid the equivalent of 15 USD. Do I risk replacing the original ones on my 06 LC with inferior fake product??? Please advise.

 

[ranma21]

I got these T's today and the packaging did't carry the Toyota label or "Made in Japan" written on it. At the parts shop where I ordered them the salesman assured me they were OEM. I paid the equivalent of 15 USD. Do I risk replacing the original ones on my 06 LC with inferior fake product??? Please advise.

View attachment 1619564

Did you get them from a Toyota dealer?

 

[kolyo]

No, it's was from usual spare parts supply shop.

 

[tacoduck]

if it were me, I would go oem or aftermarket metal.

 

[ranma21]

No, it's was from usual spare parts supply shop.

Doesn't look like Genuine Toyota parts to me. Best to spend a few extra bucks to get the Genuine Toyota T or go with brass T.

 

[highonpottery]

To me they look identical to the ones I got from Toyota a few weeks ago

 

[txtortoise]

Ok Search has let me down. For the OEM hoses that have an orange mark on one end, does that end attach to the T or the truck?

Can’t imagine it matters but O’Sensei Toyoda must have had a reason or at least the Toyota engineers.

UPDATE: FWIW, markings end connects to truck, as installed at factory, per the ones I removed.

DATAPOINT: Had crusting buildup on driver side hose. Replaced T's and six hoses with OEM and original clamps. Driver side/Hot T crumbled while cutting off hose at firewall. Passenger side was fine. 139,100 South Texas miles. No leaks.

 

[udubfl]

Took the advice of replacing all the hoses and T’s this weekend when I had a leak on one of my T’s. OEM Parts were about $110 in total. My 2001 has 155k and the T’s and hoses were original. It’s definitely easier to take the hoses off and then replace the T’s. The leak was on the driver side. It did crumble when I squeezed it.

 

[NoVaGator]

I'm doing this job this weekend. Got the metal tees, constant pressure clamps, and various bulk hose pieces from AMZN. Will need to cut the hose to fit, but I suspect it will be an easy job compared to doing the tees in-place.

 

[outdoorsman]

Did you get pre-bent hoses?

If not I don’t think you can you bulk hose and bend them without having kinks in it.

I always buy the OEM hoses and replace all of the hoses.

 

[NoVaGator]

Did you get pre-bent hoses?

If not I don’t think you can you bulk hose and bend them without having kinks in it.

I always buy the OEM hoses and replace all of the hoses.

I bought a bunch of pre-bent Gates hose segments based upon an older post that I now can't find. About $30 total.

 

[NoVaGator]

So I did my tees and related hoses this weekend **without** using factory hoses... the various Gates hoses worked just fine. (trim to fit)

I used two Gates 28467
one Gates 19082
one Gates 18622

metal tees

Breeze constant torque hose clamps. The clamps take up a lot of space when they're all jammed together at the tees and at the pipes going into the firewall. I actually re-used a few of the old clamps.

used some dish soap to make slipping the hoses on to the pipes easier

this job is easy, but also a pain in the ass

 

[viducce]

Is it necessary / recommendable to drain the coolant to change the T's?