DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (27 Viewers)

[NoTempoLimit]

Good to see another "review" of the Denso IK20TT plug. Thinking of making the switch even though my SK20R11 are OK. I don't have a record of when they were put in, but I would estimate they have 40k miles on them. No way to know if they are counterfeits. I did notice they were stamped Made in USA.

Getting back to Heater T's: I just did the first one yesterday. Really uncomfortable to work on even standing on a step stool and having the AHC on low.

My LC is an 06 and has 145k miles. I have no record of the T's being changed. When I removed the first one I thought it was OK. Looking at it closer, I noticed the rounded end on the right side of the T (with the 4 raised protrusions in the center facing you) had come off. Just the rounded part was missing, the straight part of the tube was still all there.

I put a finger inside the hose and felt the missing material. I removed it as best I could with a pick, but due to the lighting conditions I could not see what I was getting out of the hose (although I heard some pieces come out).

Sould I be concerned about the potential for some small plastic fragments in the cooling system? In what direction does the coolant flow through the T's?

Is there a reason for the orientation of the clamp tabs on the hose clamps? On my LC they were all facing down and away. For convenience I left them facing forward/out since I had to wrap up the job as the day was ending.

I agree on the need for the "extended" hose clamp pliers with the cable. But I'm getting the regular kind too to have on hand when I do the second "T".

Finally, why did Toyota use plastic? A metal part would last the life of the truck. These will have to be changed every 90k miles.

 

[2001LC]

Good to see another "review" of the Denso IK20TT plug. Thinking of making the switch even though my SK20R11 are OK. I don't have a record of when they were put in, but I would estimate they have 40k miles on them. No way to know if they are counterfeits. I did notice they were stamped Made in USA.

Getting back to Heater T's: I just did the first one yesterday. Really uncomfortable to work on even standing on a step stool and having the AHC on low.

My LC is an 06 and has 145k miles. I have no record of the T's being changed. When I removed the first one I thought it was OK. Looking at it closer, I noticed the rounded end on the right side of the T (with the 4 raised protrusions in the center facing you) had come off. Just the rounded part was missing, the straight part of the tube was still all there.

I put a finger inside the hose and felt the missing material. I removed it as best I could with a pick, but due to the lighting conditions I could not see what I was getting out of the hose (although I heard some pieces come out).

Sould I be concerned about the potential for some small plastic fragments in the cooling system? In what direction does the coolant flow through the T's?

Is there a reason for the orientation of the clamp tabs on the hose clamps? On my LC they were all facing down and away. For convenience I left them facing forward/out since I had to wrap up the job as the day was ending.

I agree on the need for the "extended" hose clamp pliers with the cable. But I'm getting the regular kind too to have on hand when I do the second "T".

Finally, why did Toyota use plastic? A metal part would last the life of the truck. These will have to be changed every 90k miles.

If your SK20R11 were counterfeit, you'd likely know by now. Or when you pull plugs and check gap. Electriod will likely fall off. Porcelain may also break free of case.

 

[NoTempoLimit]

If your SK20R11 were counterfeit, you'd likely know by now. Or when you pull plugs and check gap. Electriod will likely fall off. Porcelain may also break free of case.

Thanks Paul! I did check the gaps were all OK. Plugs look good so they can stay in there a while longer. Going to spend the $$ instead on a coil boot kit (based on your suggestion) as my coils are all original. Some of the boots are browning. I'm at 145k miles.

I'm averaging around 15 - 15.5 MPG in mostly highway driving (full tank averages checking mileage against fuel pumped). If I fuel up just before hitting the road the on-board computer will show up to 17.5 MPG cruising at 70 MPH. So I likely don't have much room for improvement there. This is an '06 VVT-i with 275/70R-18 BFG KO2 (a bit of extra overdrive from the larger tire diameter).

I noticed a definite improvement after doing front O2 sensors and all three differentials with Amsoil 75W-90 Severe Gear. Gained a consistent 0.33 to 0.50 MPG. Not sure which made the bigger difference since they were both done at the same time.

Do you have any opinion on the orientation of the Heater T clamps? Does it make a difference?

 

[2001LC]

Getting back to Heater T's: I just did the first one yesterday. Really uncomfortable to work on even standing on a step stool and having the AHC on low.

My LC is an 06 and has 145k miles. I have no record of the T's being changed. When I removed the first one I thought it was OK. Looking at it closer, I noticed the rounded end on the right side of the T (with the 4 raised protrusions in the center facing you) had come off. Just the rounded part was missing, the straight part of the tube was still all there.

I put a finger inside the hose and felt the missing material. I removed it as best I could with a pick, but due to the lighting conditions I could not see what I was getting out of the hose (although I heard some pieces come out).

Sould I be concerned about the potential for some small plastic fragments in the cooling system? In what direction does the coolant flow through the T's?

Is there a reason for the orientation of the clamp tabs on the hose clamps? On my LC they were all facing down and away. For convenience I left them facing forward/out since I had to wrap up the job as the day was ending.

I agree on the need for the "extended" hose clamp pliers with the cable. But I'm getting the regular kind too to have on hand when I do the second "T".

Finally, why did Toyota use plastic? A metal part would last the life of the truck. These will have to be changed every 90k miles.

Not a big deal, but I get all I can. Small piece will rot away, having little effect over time.

I keep each piece of broken tees and fit like a puzzle. Than I've good idea of what may remain in system.

I like doing coolant service with draining block, tees and then flushing. If my puzzle indicates need, I backflush those aeres.

When piece fall into heater core side. I backflush heater cores. Forcing pieces out they back the way they entered. I flush into jug and look for more pieces.

I've found piece, after a flushing. In water inlet cap behind thermostat.

Other places they (larger) get stuck. Is in oil cooler (between oil filter and oil pump), radiators also the reservoir hoses and cap. All will still allow coolant flow.

 

[graveling]

This thread made me pick up a set yesterday as I suspect mine are original. Weekend project.

 

[2001LC]

Tip: I most always I have at least the first short 90 degree hose coming up from engine water bypass joint rear driver side, on hand. Take hose off water bypass "gentally", with the tee and clamp still on it. It's the one and side that is almost always going to fall apart. Be gentle with the pipe come up, that it's attached to. To much side to side pressure on pipe. Then the bond in the water bypass will weep at pipe seam. Than next job well be a rear water bypass joint.

If pieces break into the inlet side of heater core. Use a nails flat head, to go in a scape out. If you lose some in there then. Blow HP air in the outlet side (driver side upper) of front heater core. Same for lower which is rear heater. You can also suck with pump distill water or coolant through.

 

[FJFOOL]

Changed these out today, recently got this truck , 250k and no record of how long they’ve been in there. Simple job, was able to get the broken pieces out with a pick. Went with OEM, will change them out at 350k !

 

[Dziobak]

Just did this swap over the weekend. Thanks for all of the photos and advice! I swapped the T's and hoses and until the last clamp, it went pretty smoothly.

Why is it that the last 'simple part' always seem to end up adding that extra 45 minutes?! In this case, it was one clamp on the hose coming out of the firewall.

If you're in the NH area, Ron Lepage at Berlin City Toyota was awesome to work with. He tossed in a discount and when I couldn't come by to pick up in person, they shipped Fedex express at no extra charge.

The return policy for Toyota Parts Deal is another story. Paying a 20% restocking fee plus shipping is insane to me. If anyone needs OEM T's & hoses for this, shoot me a dm. Happy to ship it directly for around(ish) what I paid out.

 

[NoTempoLimit]

Just did my heater T's. I used both the hose clamp pliers with the cable extension, and a regular hose clamp plier (Craftsman model bought at Lowes). I would advise having both. The job is tough enough with them due to positioning.

Make sure you clamp all 3 hoses so you can pick out the pieces of broken plastic T after you remove the old ones. Mine had just under 150k and the large ends broke off in the hoses.

I tried to use Paul's method but could not get the hose off the firewall. I used some small hose clamps meant for fuel lines to clamp it off to keep plastic pieces from going into the heater core. Also it seems that pinching the hose with the clamp makes getting the broken pieces out easier.

 

[up5799]

Just removed my heater T's and hoses - I figured after 14 years I would replace both. Good thing too as the T carrying hot coolant broke apart as I removed the pipes. Will keep spring clamps for the non-T connections, and constant tension hose clamps for the connections between the hoses and the new metal T's. When installing the new hoses and T's, I'm thinking would it be better to assemble everything first, then just spray the ends of the non-T hose connections with silicon and clamp them on, or build the hose and T assembly one piece at a time, starting with the least accessible hose connection and ending with the most accessible. Building everything first like it would be quicker and less work, but assembling the hose and T connections one piece at a time would be slower and more deliberate, and would be less prone to errors. Wondering how other people do it?

 

[LRscorned]

Just did my heater T's. I used both the hose clamp pliers with the cable extension, and a regular hose clamp plier (Craftsman model bought at Lowes). I would advise having both. The job is tough enough with them due to positioning.

Make sure you clamp all 3 hoses so you can pick out the pieces of broken plastic T after you remove the old ones. Mine had just under 150k and the large ends broke off in the hoses.

I tried to use Paul's method but could not get the hose off the firewall. I used some small hose clamps meant for fuel lines to clamp it off to keep plastic pieces from going into the heater core. Also it seems that pinching the hose with the clamp makes getting the broken pieces out easier.

I just did mine last weekend. Glad I decided to replace the hoses and clamps, too. It was a PITA to get the hoses of and I just cut them with a razor. I didn't want to risk a T breaking and having to fish the pieces out. Plus, new hoses and clamps allowed me to reposition the clamps for easier access next time in more than a few years.

 

[WannaLC]

I know this topic is beaten to death, but it seems like the part numbers change for given years and perhaps Toyota even uses new codes for the same part at a later date. This is my list to order for a 2006 Land Cruiser. Can anyone confirm I should skip the 96136-52101 clamps and go with the other 2 part numbers for the clamps? Any preferred places online to place this order?
Thanks!

87248x - Plastic T’s x 2 - 87248-60460 - 12.64
87246A - 1 hose - 87245- 6A181 - 20.03
87246B - 1 hose - 87245-6A191 - 33.04
87245B - 1 hose - 87245-6A210 - 16.95
87245A - 1 hose - 87245-6A220 - 23.96
87255A - 1 hose - 872456A800 - 27.93
87256C - 1 hose - 99556-20155 - 8.25
96134-42100 x 8 (clamps) - 2.47
90467-19022 x 4 (slightly smaller clamps used on both “bottoms” of the Ts) - 3.19
96136-52101 - clamps x 12 - (most on IH8mud say these are wrong) - 5.52

 

[flintknapper]

I know this topic is beaten to death, but it seems like the part numbers change for given years and perhaps Toyota even uses new codes for the same part at a later date. This is my list to order for a 2006 Land Cruiser. Can anyone confirm I should skip the 96136-52101 clamps and go with the other 2 part numbers for the clamps? Any preferred places online to place this order?
Thanks!

87248x - Plastic T’s x 2 - 87248-60460 - 12.64
87246A - 1 hose - 87245- 6A181 - 20.03
87246B - 1 hose - 87245-6A191 - 33.04
87245B - 1 hose - 87245-6A210 - 16.95
87245A - 1 hose - 87245-6A220 - 23.96
87255A - 1 hose - 872456A800 - 27.93
87256C - 1 hose - 99556-20155 - 8.25
96134-42100 x 8 (clamps) - 2.47
90467-19022 x 4 (slightly smaller clamps used on both “bottoms” of the Ts) - 3.19
96136-52101 - clamps x 12 - (most on IH8mud say these are wrong) - 5.52

With that much list I'd check and see if PartSouq has it all in stock. Even with shipping...you'll likely save money and probably get it faster than if ordered stateside.

 

[KDL]

I know this topic is beaten to death, but it seems like the part numbers change for given years and perhaps Toyota even uses new codes for the same part at a later date. This is my list to order for a 2006 Land Cruiser. Can anyone confirm I should skip the 96136-52101 clamps and go with the other 2 part numbers for the clamps? Any preferred places online to place this order?
Thanks!

87248x - Plastic T’s x 2 - 87248-60460 - 12.64
87246A - 1 hose - 87245- 6A181 - 20.03
87246B - 1 hose - 87245-6A191 - 33.04
87245B - 1 hose - 87245-6A210 - 16.95
87245A - 1 hose - 87245-6A220 - 23.96
87255A - 1 hose - 872456A800 - 27.93
87256C - 1 hose - 99556-20155 - 8.25
96134-42100 x 8 (clamps) - 2.47
90467-19022 x 4 (slightly smaller clamps used on both “bottoms” of the Ts) - 3.19
96136-52101 - clamps x 12 - (most on IH8mud say these are wrong) - 5.52

I've had good luck/pricing from McGeorge Toyota in Virginia when ordering common parts for my LX470.

 

[flintknapper]

I've had good luck/pricing from McGeorge Toyota in Virginia when ordering common parts for my LX470.

Same here. I don't use them exclusively.....but they have always been good about filling orders correctly and good communication.

I use McGeorge more than any other dealership stateside. Partsouq gets a lot of my business, they are just GOOD at what they do and shipping is often times faster than vendors stateside. The only parts supplier I avoid like the plague is ToyotaPartsDeal, they are slow to ship and God help you if you have a problem. HORRIBLE customer service! I can't tell you how much I hate them.

 

[LRscorned]

I know this topic is beaten to death, but it seems like the part numbers change for given years and perhaps Toyota even uses new codes for the same part at a later date. This is my list to order for a 2006 Land Cruiser. Can anyone confirm I should skip the 96136-52101 clamps and go with the other 2 part numbers for the clamps? Any preferred places online to place this order?
Thanks!

87248x - Plastic T’s x 2 - 87248-60460 - 12.64
87246A - 1 hose - 87245- 6A181 - 20.03
87246B - 1 hose - 87245-6A191 - 33.04
87245B - 1 hose - 87245-6A210 - 16.95
87245A - 1 hose - 87245-6A220 - 23.96
87255A - 1 hose - 872456A800 - 27.93
87256C - 1 hose - 99556-20155 - 8.25
96134-42100 x 8 (clamps) - 2.47
90467-19022 x 4 (slightly smaller clamps used on both “bottoms” of the Ts) - 3.19
96136-52101 - clamps x 12 - (most on IH8mud say these are wrong) - 5.52

I got the 8 larger and 4 smaller clamps. The hoses going down are smaller and probably need the smaller clamp.

 

[WannaLC]

I have all the OEM hoses, T's and clamps on order from my local Toyota dealership. Now I have a question on best practice for the coolant. Which option makes the most sense:

1) work on a level ground, drain ~ 1 gallon from the bottom of the radiator petcock, then after hose and T replacement, put the same 1 gallon back in radiator and overflow canister while burping system

2) work on level ground and use a container to catch coolant when cutting the hot side (driver) heater hose, then after hose and T replacement, fill radiator and overflow with new Toyota pink coolant (will likely only need a quart or so I think). My LC is a 2006 and the original owner had the timing belt, water pump etc. done last year at an independent mechanic. Looking at the receipt they were charged $32 for 2 gallons of antifreeze. I'm not sure if that means they used something other than Toyota pink. If so and I add Toyota pink coolant does that create any issues? I don't think so, but just want to make sure.

3) same as number 2, but park nose down in my driveway and may have less coolant loss. In this case I'm assuming I would move back to level ground when topping off the radiator and overfill after the hoses and T's are replaced.

I know I'm probably making this more complicated than it is, but just wondering best practice. Thanks!

 

[BullElk]

Nose down a bit and use turkey baster to retrieve a cup or two of coolant from radiator. Replace hoses and then replace coolant. Nothing more should be necessary.

 

[crimsonaudio]

I've had good luck/pricing from McGeorge Toyota in Virginia when ordering common parts for my LX470.

McGeorge rules - I get parts cheaper from them than my tech (who works at the local Toyota dealership) can get with his discount.

 

[KDL]

McGeorge rules - I get parts cheaper from them than my tech (who works at the local Toyota dealership) can get with his discount.

Kinda off topic...my friend ordered F&R struts for his wife's ES300 from M George at my suggestion....they e-mailed him that he'd ordered two many nuts and had corrected it. Another couple of friendly emails later and he had everything he'd ordered and nothing he didn't. My friend is not an easy guy to please and he left them a nice review....