DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Whew!
Thanks to @paflytyer and everyone else providing help in this thread.
Spent my July 4 tackling this :wrench::wrench: - new owner, '99, 137k miles, original heater Tee's...
Hot side tee definitely was fragile. 2 of the 3 ends preferred to snap off instead of being removed from their hose :bang:

upload_2017-7-4_16-57-39.png

upload_2017-7-4_16-58-38.png

Other Tee came out okay but looked somewhat brittle and aged (spotty brown).

luckily they broke clean, no debris to be seen. Took the whole hoses off and cleaned out the junk! Rubber was in good shape. Will swap the hoses out next time around.
upload_2017-7-4_17-0-12.png


A little bit of clamp force to the leftover trapped tee and the whole thing collapsed:
upload_2017-7-4_17-0-31.png



Can't stress enough to do this if you don't know the age of those tees.
 
Got the Ts and hoses mocked up and ready to go. Will post more of my findings during swap out when I find the time to do it. It looks like the hot side T is weeping. Also I'm not an expert but does the rad hose look like it should be replaced?

IMG_3023.JPG


IMG_3024.JPG


IMG_3022.JPG
 
can anyone verify that the clamps that go on the smaller hoses, the ones that travel down, are smaller than the other ones?
I only see one part number for clamps for two different size hoses. And they're pretty difficult to get on the bigger hoses.
I'm speaking of part number 96136-52101
I'm trying to find out if there are different sized clamps. The new ones I got are black with a red mark on them.
I know this is extremely ocd, but it's bugging me.

heater tees.jpg
 
can anyone verify that the clamps that go on the smaller hoses, the ones that travel down, are smaller than the other ones?
I only see one part number for clamps for two different size hoses. And they're pretty difficult to get on the bigger hoses.
I'm speaking of part number 96136-52101
I'm trying to find out if there are different sized clamps. The new ones I got are black with a red mark on them.
I know this is extremely ocd, but it's bugging me.

View attachment 1519387


Sounds familiar. I bought the T's and hoses and new clamps but there was only one size clamp provided....even though clearly the factory used two slightly different sizes.

I had my mechanic re-use the originals where the larger ones were needed.

-G
 
I'm not liking using smaller clamps on the bigger hoses. But I also wouldn't reuse the bigger ones either.

Screenshot_20170818-081418.png
 
I just replaced mine. My LC has 195k.

One side on each T crumbled upon removal. I replaced with OEM plastic.
 
I replaced mine back mid-July. My truck has 280K and I assume original Tees. The clamps were all turned in the factory spec direction. The hoses were all original Toyota. I cut the old hoses and replaced hoses and tees as an assembly, that way I didn't risk breaking an old tee and ending up with plastic in the engine. Remarkably, my replaced tess seem to be in good shape. I wouldn't reinstall them and run them for any extended period of time, but I think I could get away with using one for a field fix if I absolutely had too.
 
I say that's a testament to a healthy coolant system!

I think the coolant is probably fine, but I am chasing a warmer than I like coolant temperature. At highway speed it runs 198. Sitting in traffic, it can get as high as 207. Think I may need to replace the radiator.
 
radiator solved that for me. 194.7 max for months now. All new system parts did nothing until I replaced the radiator last. 195 max temp now most of the summer.
 
View attachment 1469627 Ok....I was under my LC today changing transfer case fluid and I see there are 2 more heaters hoses that should also be replaced. They are just short ones but if they fail could strand you.

what are the part numbers for these?
 
See if these part numbers work for the rear heater hoses. This is from a site with parts for Japanese models, so YMMV...but they show up for me on the local Toyota site catalogs. I replaced these in my '03 TLC a while back, but I cannot find what part numbers I used then.

full


full
 
Quick questions -- does anyone know which sides (pax and driver) is the hot hose or cold hose. Also, anyone able to obtain some sort of diagram on how this whole system works - with the heater core and radiator in play, what do the Tee split to???. Just trying to fully understand/explain the process. Looked online and can't find any. Much appreciation
 
The driver's side is the hot side and often, the more crumbled Tee. The Tee's split for the front and rear heater cores. On LC's with no rear heat, there should be no T.
 
To expand on @hoser, one side of the tees comes from the engine side. The smaller legs feed the rear heater core. The other side of the tees feed the front heater core, through the firewall. Here's mine after 265000 miles.

They are still solid, not brittle at all.

IMG_0811.JPG


IMG_0812.JPG


IMG_0813.JPG
 
Quick questions -- does anyone know which sides (pax and driver) is the hot hose or cold hose. Also, anyone able to obtain some sort of diagram on how this whole system works - with the heater core and radiator in play, what do the Tee split to???. Just trying to fully understand/explain the process. Looked online and can't find any. Much appreciation
Cooling system hostory 1 (1).JPG

Blown heather Tee took out head gasket and has melted the water out (HOT) Tee.
120.JPG

Compression gasses seen coming from outlet hose of engine water by-pass joint rear. Clear hoses are just plugging heater lines front & rear
130.JPG

$10K worth of damage (Dealership quot).

~$10 each, replace with timing belt & water pump job 90K or 7 yr.
Front Differential SEALS 053.JPG
 
Last edited:
THANK YOU very much gents. All this info is great. Reason I was asking was because I'm considering adding the helton heat exchanger for showers in the bush and wanted to make sense of the implications. The dangers if any, and if I did where would it be best to tap into on the HOT side. I'm considering the red helton, including it BEFORE the heater core for max heat - but on the same token I don't want to mess with 'flow'.
@hoser and @Dwight S relative to the diag below and focusing on the HOT side -- ( hoses 1,2,3) could you pin point which is which based on your comments. which hose comes from where and to where are they going? Flow direction. I drive a 98 TLC. And ideally I would like to tap into the hose that's coming FROM the engine (which one would that be?)

@Ramathorn15 -- input?

upload_2017-9-10_11-46-32.png
 
1 is coming from the engine side.
2 is going to your front heater core.
3 is going to the rear heater core.

The other assembly is the same, except just the return side of the system.
 
THANK YOU very much gents. All this info is great. Reason I was asking was because I'm considering adding the helton heat exchanger for showers in the bush and wanted to make sense of the implications. The dangers if any, and if I did where would it be best to tap into on the HOT side. I'm considering the red helton, including it BEFORE the heater core for max heat - but on the same token I don't want to mess with 'flow'.
@hoser and @Dwight S relative to the diag below and focusing on the HOT side -- ( hoses 1,2,3) could you pin point which is which based on your comments. which hose comes from where and to where are they going? Flow direction. I drive a 98 TLC. And ideally I would like to tap into the hose that's coming FROM the engine (which one would that be?)

@Ramathorn15 -- input?

View attachment 1534557

We discussed this today, but for anyone else looking to hook up a helton, the hose #1 can be replaced with a line from the engine block, to the helton, then back to the T. That will give you constant hot water without the need to run the heater inside. You won't be able to control the temp though, so I recommend a splitter (I used a bidet one) to give you a constant temp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Back
    Top Bottom