DIY idea request - sill body mount

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joyRidaz

joyRidaz

Joined
Mar 11, 2013
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I'm seeking creative diy solutions, likely Not from purists but from those of us that enjoy being creatively thrifty.

I need to replace 1-2 rear sill body mounts on my 1978 fj40 but will not be changing all the other ones any time soon. My existing DS sill horn has been mangled by rust and the body mount needs to be surgically removed. I'm going to fix the horn and will need to replace that one existing body mount. Then install a lower quarter panel patch

It might be shortsighted/cheap but I'm hoping to find a diy solution for creating a functional Body mount, in an affordable manner.... That will not be oem... Something to get me by until I swap out all body mounts.

Looking at the design diagrams on SOR and DayStar it doesn't seem like there is much to them.

My truck is not oem, and I'm happy with how the original body mounts were over the years.

Anyone have some creative hacks?

image.jpeg

image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
Last edited:
@alberta mac - Great idea, thanks! Now that u mention it I remember reading that guys in the sixty forum use pucks to do diy body lifts.

So the puck sits on the crossmember, the sill horn on top of the puck, and then inside the sill I'd put a washer? (Is metal on metal okay or is another puck needed on the inside of the horn also?)

And of course a washer on the inside of the crossmember.
 
image.jpg
Ok I'm in for $11 bucks so far

a new puck ($5 down south are tough to find)
2 sets of stainless 3/8in x2inch bolts, and nuts
4 stainless 1 1/2inch washers

I'll likely slice this puck into 2 halves since it's fairly large.

Post up the end product this weekend. Thanks for the help!
 
joyRidaz said:
@alberta mac - Great idea, thanks! Now that u mention it I remember reading that guys in the sixty forum use pucks to do diy body lifts.

So the puck sits on the crossmember, the sill horn on top of the puck, and then inside the sill I'd put a washer? (Is metal on metal okay or is another puck needed on the inside of the horn also?)

And of course a washer on the inside of the crossmember.
Click to expand...

I would think that hockey pucks are not very compressible and you would want a material that has some give, I was thinking that tire tread or side wall cut in squares a couple of layers thick would give a softer ride and take up some vibration. If the horns or extensions are rigid you may have other seams or connection points giving away. I have the same problem with my 78, the horns are rusted out and the rear sill is on its last legs, driving it daily there is a lot of movement on the back tub body when the body mounts start deteriorating.
 
UHMW. That's what I used, coupled with Energy Suspension bushings. UHMD-HDPE = Ultra High Molecular Weight, High Density Polyethylene. Same stuff that goes into HD chain covers, Disney land ride bumpers, ..... Not terribly cheap though. It ain't bullet proof, but it is nearly idiot proof.
 
I simply left off that outer-most body mount, after my fender repair. By leaving the mount off, you reduce the stress on the body filler you will be applying to the area. I have used the truck this way for 20+ years. Later '40s didn't have the outer mount anyway. At least consider this as an option.

Steve
 
Ok back to point of the question and other opinions! . . .
the ''washers'' will attach to the puck and run the bolt through. washers should sandwich the puck.
So here is the reason why I used hockey pucks and I know that other things may be preferred but I was focused on rebuilding and could afford to test drive the hockey puck theory. I rebuilt my rear tub with stainless steel (16ga ) and got to the body mounts . ( pooched )
My main factor was insuering everything was to spec and that the roof would line up square. I knew if I wanted I could spend $$$$$$$ on body mounts and even factor in which colour I'd prefer but I did hear of others doing it so I ventured down that road. . .
The results : ( others may want to chime in to their experience with hockey pucks ) The rebuild of the body and what I wanted to do with the truck are this : to be used as a daily driver on the highway, two hours to work there and back, weekends camping , weekends offroading, and I do mean offraoding, I have a BDS 4'' lift with 33 x 9'x 15 BFG mudterrain. stock diffs, 5speed diesel non-turbo.
I really don't want to change much but enjoy the element of what a Landcruiser is and can do. I drove the truck this way from 1995 to 2005.
So far the body mounts have held up just fine, off road no probs. To boot the hockey pucks are a straight swap as the pucks are the same thickness thereabouts ! I had tightened the bolts to slightly buldge the puck and used a second nut to secure the first.
Now looking at the rear rust and bondo you have their has me curious !
The first thing I am wondering about is the metal body mount support that is located under the driver and passenger seat. On mine they did rust out pretty bad as the way they are designed they collect mud and sand and hold it their to corrode. The metal is about 1/8th think but mine has rusted down to 1/6th. If there is any place you want to be solid this is the place ! The other area is your rear inner frame rail corners, a suspension mount is connected to a tri-angle ish plate that is very prone to rusting as is that other short channel connected to it.
If this is an issue go to your local steel fab shop and get them to bend up the pieces you need.

Hope this helps !
Mac
ps. where are you located ?
 
Thrifty Body Mount Success!

I successfully implemented upon @alberta mac 's vision with some project specific tweaks based on my own rig. Tried to do a mini DIY below in case it helps anyone in the future.... My goal was to do a cheap and functional solution, that mimics the spirit of the Oem design that doesn't leave my truck lopsided, meaning I want the same height as the old smoothed body mount on the other side that isn't being replaced. Not great for restorers but good enough for me.

I like the idea of the boat roller but saw that post after I had the puck, a foot of rubber boat trailer roller is like eight bucks on Amazon prime... Next time

Supplies:
- 1 new hockey puck $5 (no used ones avail here in NC on short notice)
- stainless bolts, washers and nuts($6 for 2 mounts worth)
- vice
- sawzall or HF equivalent and metal-purpose blade (to cut old mount bolt and puck)

Techniqually for $11 I can make 2 mounts but am only dong one now, the other side will be in needed in the coming months.

Process:
- remove Swiss cheese lower quarter
- have a drink to prevent heart attack from seeing the mess u find
- pointlessly attempt to PB Blasr the rust body mount bolt to kingdom come knowing in your heart u should at least try to salvage that forty year old Orem bolt... Start procuring a sawzall
- do not try a cutoff wheel since there isn't enough space or depth to easily hack the bolt off
- use your brand new HF sawzall to get that puppy outta there.
- remove old rubber and bolt and rusty washer surround, notice the shape of old mount
- using a vice, secure your hockey puck in vertical position
- prepare for a scenes from your favorite civil unrest war movie
- cover your mouth, and slice the puck in half so u end up with two equally sized circles, I think about half an inch thick each<--- this step likely should be done outside because it is smoky and smelly and messy
- I cut off about 1/4 inch on the back quarter of the puck so I have one flat side and then a semi circle (like 3/4 of the puck with one side chopped off). This is so the puck doesn't go hang too far off the rear crossmember and to mimic the original mounts shape in spirit.... If u wanted u could do more chopping and make it the perfect upside down "U" shape

Installation
- my layers are differs then the advice I got from @alberta mac because I wanted rubber to be touching both the sill horn and the cross member
- my layers are starting from the bottom to the top: bolt head, washer, crossmember, hole, hockey puck mount, sill horn, washer inside horn, nut.

Sorry for bad lighting this was late at night, the romantic ambience was from my new favorite harbor freight purchase, a "prarobolic oesillating space heater"... On the cross member the left mount is the orig, the right one is the cut up puck. On the floor amidst the rust dust is my diy fabbed horn and diy lower panel patch

image.jpeg


Below is the horn and crossmember married with the new mount. After installing I realized the puck doesn't allow for the lip of my panel, so I trimmed the puck while in place using a cutoff wheel... I'll need to do some research on where that lip goes, or more likely I'll trim until it fits.

image.jpeg



Now the hard part, making my fabbed panel fit straight-ish

Kinda a conveluated diy and overall project to replace one horn but hope this helps someone out there! Let's stop couch wrenching and Just get-r-dun... Just make it better than it is today!
 
joyRidaz said:
Thrifty Body Mount Success!

I successfully implemented upon @alberta mac 's vision with some project specific tweaks based on my own rig. Tried to do a mini DIY below in case it helps anyone in the future.... My goal was to do a cheap and functional solution, that mimics the spirit of the Oem design that doesn't leave my truck lopsided, meaning I want the same height as the old smoothed body mount on the other side that isn't being replaced. Not great for restorers but good enough for me.

I like the idea of the boat roller but saw that post after I had the puck, a foot of rubber boat trailer roller is like eight bucks on Amazon prime... Next time

Supplies:
- 1 new hockey puck $5 (no used ones avail here in NC on short notice)
- stainless bolts, washers and nuts($6 for 2 mounts worth)
- vice
- sawzall or HF equivalent and metal-purpose blade (to cut old mount bolt and puck)

Techniqually for $11 I can make 2 mounts but am only dong one now, the other side will be in needed in the coming months.

Process:
- remove Swiss cheese lower quarter
- have a drink to prevent heart attack from seeing the mess u find
- pointlessly attempt to PB Blasr the rust body mount bolt to kingdom come knowing in your heart u should at least try to salvage that forty year old Orem bolt... Start procuring a sawzall
- do not try a cutoff wheel since there isn't enough space or depth to easily hack the bolt off
- use your brand new HF sawzall to get that puppy outta there.
- remove old rubber and bolt and rusty washer surround, notice the shape of old mount
- using a vice, secure your hockey puck in vertical position
- prepare for a scenes from your favorite civil unrest war movie
- cover your mouth, and slice the puck in half so u end up with two equally sized circles, I think about half an inch thick each<--- this step likely should be done outside because it is smoky and smelly and messy
- I cut off about 1/4 inch on the back quarter of the puck so I have one flat side and then a semi circle (like 3/4 of the puck with one side chopped off). This is so the puck doesn't go hang too far off the rear crossmember and to mimic the original mounts shape in spirit.... If u wanted u could do more chopping and make it the perfect upside down "U" shape

Installation
- my layers are differs then the advice I got from @alberta mac because I wanted rubber to be touching both the sill horn and the cross member
- my layers are starting from the bottom to the top: bolt head, washer, crossmember, hole, hockey puck mount, sill horn, washer inside horn, nut.

Sorry for bad lighting this was late at night, the romantic ambience was from my new favorite harbor freight purchase, a "prarobolic oesillating space heater"... On the cross member the left mount is the orig, the right one is the cut up puck. On the floor amidst the rust dust is my diy fabbed horn and diy lower panel patch

View attachment 1378950

Below is the horn and crossmember married with the new mount. After installing I realized the puck doesn't allow for the lip of my panel, so I trimmed the puck while in place using a cutoff wheel... I'll need to do some research on where that lip goes, or more likely I'll trim until it fits.

View attachment 1378951


Now the hard part, making my fabbed panel fit straight-ish

Kinda a conveluated diy and overall project to replace one horn but hope this helps someone out there! Let's stop couch wrenching and Just get-r-dun... Just make it better than it is today!
Click to expand...

Statement captured: "....Just make it better than it is today!" :)

Good one!
 
GA Architect said:
Statement captured: "....Just make it better than it is today!" :)

Good one!
Click to expand...


@GA Architect - I was really hoping I was finally gonna be able to install the new to me rock guards I bought from u some months back, but sadly all the bolts are rusted like crazy and I'm not prepared to start slicing yet... Would be a nice icig on the cake for the weekend... But even after PB blaster treatments I'm at the sad realization that they aren't gonna budge. A project for the spring I guess.
 
joyRidaz said:
View attachment 1377110 Ok I'm in for $11 bucks so far

a new puck ($5 down south are tough to find)
2 sets of stainless 3/8in x2inch bolts, and nuts
4 stainless 1 1/2inch washers

I'll likely slice this puck into 2 halves since it's fairly large.

Post up the end product this weekend. Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

$11/mount is much more expensive than an entire aftermarket kit you can get for $89
 
joyRidaz said:
View attachment 1377110 Ok I'm in for $11 bucks so far

a new puck ($5 down south are tough to find)
2 sets of stainless 3/8in x2inch bolts, and nuts
4 stainless 1 1/2inch washers

I'll likely slice this puck into 2 halves since it's fairly large.

Post up the end product this weekend. Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...


buy 'em used....I use them on 60 series quite often

Hockey Pucks | eBay
 
Thanks guys for all the good links to kits etc, I'll keep those in mind for when I ultimately change them all at once. This solution worked well for my needs for only needing one, my lack of patience, and my enjoyment for creating things.

Cheers all, I'll post up some final shots once the lower quarter is decent.
 
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