Builds DIY FJZ80 Low Budget Turbo Build

[lilevo]

The above post is my car dyno. 750awhp makes for around 900 at the engine.

Several posts prior is the land cruiser along with the car and the video.

 

[Azca]

OOOOHHHHH! AWESOME. Bet that vette never knew what hit him! Was the curve correct though, started at 2700 RPM?

 

[lilevo]

It's a 150+ mph car in the 1/4 mile so there isn't much that can touch it.

The dyno test started at 2700. It can start at whatever you decide, but for that power band there's no point in starting lower than that.

 

[scottryana]

Hey Evo, did I miss where you put in your A/W reservoir?

 

[lilevo]

Don't really need one unless you are drag racing all the time and are pushing serious boost.

Intake temps are inline with what I expected for the boost and power level I'm at and I don't have any reasons to add one.

A larger heat exchanger (mine is small) would probably give better results than a tank if I had to choose between the two.

 

[scottryana]

Gotcha. What temps are you seeing? I am going to run a 5 gal tank and a fairly large heat exchanger. It looks like we both purchased the same intercooler. Is that the 600hp one from Frozenboost/siliconeintakes?

 

[lilevo]

Ambient temp matching maf iat usually around 80-100 under normal conditions and 130-140 after a full boost pull.

Mine is the 350hp smaller one.

 

[scottryana]

Sounds like its working well! I just went with the idea that I would need extra capacity for slow going offroad stuff. My heat exchanger is 13"x12" with a 9" fan. Have you noticed higher water temps or any effect to the AC with yours in front of the condenser?

 

[lilevo]

Nope. Rock solid at 194 with ac on all day long

 

[lilevo]

Here is an updated 0-60mph video taken after the dyno session.

http://youtu.be/JuvjhjHjry8

 

[Azca]

Looks like about 9 seconds! Not bad for the lead sled!

 

[lilevo]

Closed loop, O2 manipulation problem.

I originally purchased the UDR FTC.

This seemed to work fine with keeping the O2 target rich while still in closed loop.

I changed my piggyback to the AEM F/IC 8 which has built in O2 manipulation. The directions are vague, but they suggest installing a 1K ohm resistor inline with the O2 signal wire that the AEM intercepts. The resistor is in between the AEM and the stock ECU. The resistor is there so the AEM is able to manipulate the O2 voltage signal.

Basically in closed loop, the ECU wants to be at 14.7 AFR. Well if you are between 1-5psi and part throttle that is bad and the motor will knock.

So by using the O2 table you can input xx voltage to fool the ECU into thinking the engine is running lean so it will add fuel.

Well I've tried every resistor from 700ohm to 10k ohm (which was recommended by another Tacoma turbo thread somewhere I believe)

The problem is no matter what voltage I input to trick the ECU, the ECU dumps way too much fuel and I'm way too rich. It's like an on/off switch. It is so bad that I still have the URD FTC that I'm solely using for the O2 manipulation feature which works ok, but not perfectly.

Does anyone have experience with the AEM unit or any other piggyback unit with O2 manipulation? Not many threads on the subject

 

[scottryana]

Lilevo,

Did you figure out how the 1v OEM narrow band signal maps to AFR's? I know AEM gives you a chart with their 5v sensors that show voltage to AFR, but I haven't seen anything for the 1v OEM.

In the AEM under setup, there is a place to calibrate the O2 sensor map, and you have to input 0-1.1v and what the corresponding AFR is so that you can use AFR on the O2 map.

I am sure that you have probably seen this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_IyLEJFEB4&feature=player_embedded

 

[lilevo]

I did all that, but no matter what values I used it was either 10.0 or richer or no change (shooting for 14.7) like stock. No in between.


The URD unit works ok, and keeps it around 10.7 - 11.0, (sometimes it will get "stuck" at 10.0 or richer and I have to get off the gas completely and get back on the gas to "reset" it.)

I'd rather figure out the AEM unit so I don't have to run two boxes.

 

[scottryana]

Oh hmmm, because when I make changes to the O2 map the truck changes to reflect that and it was granular, I could watch the change almost immediately on the AEM AFR gauge.. There was definitely a lot of in between, between 10:1 and 14.7:1 But it was fairly large changes for small inputs. a -.2v input change would be almost 2 points of AFR.

 

[bsmart82]

I need to look into how the aem operates, but it seems to me that holding the o2 voltage under boost and then manipulating the maf signal to alter fueling is how I would go about this. Most of my experience with tuning efi is from dsm/evo so this might not be probable.

 

[lilevo]

Mine too, but it wouldn't work out right that way.

dsm/evo are already turbo ecu's so they are setup for rich conditions in closed loop.

The O2 voltage is held, but the adjustment is so narrow that it's hard to get a correct AFR for closed loop because you're fighting the factory ecu that wants to be at 14.7 AFR

 

[bsmart82]

The dsm/evo ecu actually doesn't ever run anything but stoich in closed loop. It has a specific open loop transition based on load(airflow). The ecu of course is programmed so that boost equals x amount of load and then changes to open loop. If you can hold the o2 voltage at what the ecu thinks is stoich, the no additional fuel added should affect the ecu because it won't see it. Then manipulating the maf signal should change the afr.

 

[lilevo]

Ok then I should say closed loop while in boost, not vacuum.

 

[bsmart82]

Ok then I should say closed loop while in boost, not vacuum.

You lost me.