DIY 4.3 Re-Gear

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

My 4.88s are not quite broken in yet, but on 34s with the inch bumper I was getting 20 mpg on the highway for a stretch I ran 50-55mph during the break-in, and I'm seeing about 14-14.5 around town. I'll know in a couple weeks what the mileage really looks like and was planning to report in at that time, but if it stays even within 10% of that I have to seriously agree with @grinchy and others that have said you just can't have too much gear, as by rights I should be running a bit under 4.30. Then again I suspect if I try to cruise at 100 mph on the highway my mileage might not improve, but at reasonable speeds more gear actually seems to help.

FWIW if you think of the amount of effort it takes to get a bicycle started from a stop in 1st gear vs 21st gear, imagine your legs as the engine and you can see why shorter gears really help mileage even though the ratio implies it shouldn't. Because it's much less work for the engine, you're not dumping fuel into the cylinders to try and compensate for the "challenging" gear ratios created by taller tires.
 
20 mpgs? Impressive! I still get around 10 or 11 mpgs in town, with 65mph (WA limits are commonly 60 mph) getting 14mpgs. I stopped worrying about converting it up the 10% difference, because 12 / 15 isn't anything to brag on.

I haven't ever done the true math odometer / gallon bookkeeping. I'm not sure I want to know the 'real' answer.
 
My 4.88s are not quite broken in yet, but on 34s with the inch bumper I was getting 20 mpg on the highway for a stretch I ran 50-55mph during the break-in, and I'm seeing about 14-14.5 around town. I'll know in a couple weeks what the mileage really looks like and was planning to report in at that time, but if it stays even within 10% of that I have to seriously agree with @grinchy and others that have said you just can't have too much gear, as by rights I should be running a bit under 4.30. Then again I suspect if I try to cruise at 100 mph on the highway my mileage might not improve, but at reasonable speeds more gear actually seems to help.

FWIW if you think of the amount of effort it takes to get a bicycle started from a stop in 1st gear vs 21st gear, imagine your legs as the engine and you can see why shorter gears really help mileage even though the ratio implies it shouldn't. Because it's much less work for the engine, you're not dumping fuel into the cylinders to try and compensate for the "challenging" gear ratios created by taller tires.

I think this depends a whole lot on aero profile. The stock gearing keeping cruising RPMs so low is only possible because of the low horsepower demands of the stock, relatively sleek (for it's size) aero. You'd think they would design in a small buffer in case of being heavily loaded, altitude, any of the things that can come up, but then we have a 6-spd transmission and plenty of opportunity to give it some more gear when cruising in these circumstances. Anything we do that interrupts that aero profile will require more horsepower, and we only have a limited ability to provide that power at a given RPM without making things way less efficient.. requiring more fuel, timing, whatever.

It stands to reason that my setup, with nothing extra hanging off the truck, only a couple inches more tire visible in the front and marginally more LCA being pushed through the wind, wouldn't need nearly as much horsepower (and therefore gear) as someone with a front bumper, rack, traction boards, RTT, etc. It simply takes way less horsepower to punch a hole the shape of my cruiser in the air vs the second one.

My experience with LT-metric tires vs P-metric leads me to believe even if I stick with the same size, the extra rolling resistance will push my truck past the point of 3.90s just barely being enough at cruising speeds from what I've observed. I'm starting to think along your lines of even if I don't "need" 4.30s the extra punch of the gears, and some buffer on top of that, will better suit my pretty mild aero profile. Plus if I move to 285/75 later I'll only be worried about rubbing, not gears. And I'll just be leaving it in sixth along I40 in northern NM...
 
Don't forget that 4.30 is the tow package ratio on the Tundra with stock 32" tires. The rpm increase is just about perfect for the 285/70R17 which run about 32.7" on average.
 
Don't forget that 4.30 is the tow package ratio on the Tundra with stock 32" tires. The rpm increase is just about perfect for the 285/70R17 which run about 32.7" on average.
If my math is correct stock gears/tires turn 1895 at 75mph, 4.30s with 285/70 AT3s would run just about 100 more at 2004. 285/75 would bring that down to 1941.

For some reason I had the difference being larger than that. Looks like my late summer project is going to be sourcing and setting up those 200-series 4.30s you posted the part number for a while back..
 
Don't forget that 4.30 is the tow package ratio on the Tundra with stock 32" tires. The rpm increase is just about perfect for the 285/70R17 which run about 32.7" on average.
Would you still recommend 4.30 for 34-35” tires as well? I am still considering going back to 35”s for my ‘19 200. Any cons with re-gearing(longevity,etc.)
 
Would you still recommend 4.30 for 34-35” tires as well? I am still considering going back to 35”s for my ‘19 200. Any cons with re-gearing(longevity,etc.)
For the 8 speed look for 3.90 gears from a 2008-2015
 
This is an excellent thread - I plan to go with 4.30s on my 8 speed with 34s

Let us know how it works out. Looking at @TeCKis300's thread (first and ~last posts) 4.30 with the 8 speed looks similar to 4.88 on the 6 speed at highway speeds (about 2150 RPMs) which is about 10% over stock, maybe a bit more. First gear on the 8 speed is really low though so even on 34s it should be impressively high ratio on 4.30s...

 
My 4.88s are not quite broken in yet, but on 34s with the inch bumper I was getting 20 mpg on the highway for a stretch I ran 50-55mph during the break-in, and I'm seeing about 14-14.5 around town. I'll know in a couple weeks what the mileage really looks like and was planning to report in at that time, but if it stays even within 10% of that I have to seriously agree with @grinchy and others that have said you just can't have too much gear, as by rights I should be running a bit under 4.30. Then again I suspect if I try to cruise at 100 mph on the highway my mileage might not improve, but at reasonable speeds more gear actually seems to help.

FWIW if you think of the amount of effort it takes to get a bicycle started from a stop in 1st gear vs 21st gear, imagine your legs as the engine and you can see why shorter gears really help mileage even though the ratio implies it shouldn't. Because it's much less work for the engine, you're not dumping fuel into the cylinders to try and compensate for the "challenging" gear ratios created by taller tires.

This is great to hear. Sounds like your hypermilling is on point to touch those kind of numbers! Interested to hear your impressions outside of breaking in, but I trust you'll find as much success as @grinchy found with this combo.

Towing may be a different story, at least for my setup. Your aero and setup differs so your experience may be different. Just something for others to be aware of as they pick and choose how they might tailor their rigs.

From my earlier post here
Freeway MPG efficiency with trailer in tow - this is an interesting area as it wasn't necessarily an improvement. Previously, with 3.9s and 33s, for my rig and its weight and aero, the preferred cruise gear was 4th, putting me at ~2500 rpm at ~65mph. Note with 33 tires, 4th works out to be about an ideal 4.5 gear. This worked great with enough margin to lockup the torque converter, and still handle slight grades and wind. With the re-gear at 65mph, it puts things a bit too high and too low. 4th is now too high at 3k rpm with more gearing (windage losses) than I need to cruise. 5th is barely workable and will just lockup the torque converter on flats, with RPM a bit low at ~2150 rpm. So while pulling on hills improved, cruise is now a bit more inefficient with ~.5mpg loss.

To help others analyze how this plays out. Those of us with 6-speeds don't have as fine selection with the in-between gears so it's a big rpm jump between usable gears. A .5MPG decrease is what I saw re-gearing with 33s. Reason is I find that the optimal towing RPM to be about 2600 for my aero profile and load at 65mph. For those that tow a lot, this may be how to assess where you want to be, at least for hauling MPG.

1619578047913.png


As from my earlier post, I got the best MPG with
- (1) stock gearing with 33s. This 2673 RPM @65 was great as it kept the torque converter locked, while having torque reserves for some minor wind and hills, and kept excess RPM down.
- (2) My experience going to 4.3s with 33s was as I quoted above. Excess RPM @2941 for the same 65mph, meaning windage losses while keeping excess power reserve in gear. Losing about .5MPG vs (1).
- (3) Now that I have 35s with 4.3s, I have 100 more RPM to turn bigger tires, but relatively the same as (1), so I'm probably spitting distance in MPG minus minor losses hauling around the bigger 35s.

So a way to look at this for heavy towing usage is to find combos that put you around 2600rpm @65mph as a first approximation. Again, I'm stock aero, 1" lift, 35x12.5s. If you have bumpers, add ~100rpm to your target rpm. Roof rack, add another ~100rpm. That sort of thing. Try the different gears in your towing setup now to come up with a sense of where you think the car wants to be in RPM when laden, to cross check the optimal gearing (for efficiency).

@linuxgod the orange is where you'll roughly land with your 4.88 setup. If you towed in 4th gear prior with stock gearing and 34s, that was probably around 2600rpm as a reference. It'll be interesting if you can grab 5th with the new setup. Though I know you also tend to keep a higher speed so 5th gearing may work out per the 75MPH table below and you have a chance at sitting pretty.
1619578376565.png
 
Last edited:
I'll have a set of 3.90 3rds soon. They have 250k miles on them.
 
@linuxgod the orange is where you'll roughly land with your 4.88 setup. If you towed in 4th gear prior with stock gearing and 34s, that was probably around 2600rpm as a reference. It'll be interesting if you can grab 5th with the new setup. Though I know you also tend to keep a higher speed so 5th gearing may work out per the 75MPH table below and you have a chance at sitting pretty.
Yeah I used to run about 3000 RPMs in 4th at 75mph. Stock gearing would've been about 3300. On 34s it'll be about 3700 which is probably too high, so I will try 5th and see how the transmission temps and gas mileage goes. As @grinchy points out, 37s are the right size for towing with 4.88s with the 6 speed, but I can't imagine trying to fit them :-)
 
Photo_2021-07-01_11-24-42_PM.png



Just wanted to chime in here. I swapped a 4.30 gear set with harrops into my 16'. It feels incredible. I recommend anyone who has a 16 and up with 33s or larger to try the 4.30s. Its like the truck has 100 more horse power.

02' LX470 4.30 rear
4.30 Tundra front

Im powering the lockers through my bantam X.

20210701_221214.jpg
 
Do you think these videos on a tundra cv swap and tundra rear axle swap would be of instructional use on 200 series axle and cv removal for third member replacement?

Is the tundra and 200 similar enough to use them as a guide?

Cv removal video for tundra






Rear axle removal for tundra



 
Sorry for the dumb question, but if someone was okay with keeping open diffs, they could just install the tundra 4.30 front and 100 series 4.30 third and be good? So no special tools required? I'd like to move up to 35s on my LX and would like to re-gear as cost efficiently as possible and might even consider a lunchbox locker.
 
Sorry for the dumb question, but if someone was okay with keeping open diffs, they could just install the tundra 4.30 front and 100 series 4.30 third and be good? So no special tools required? I'd like to move up to 35s on my LX and would like to re-gear as cost efficiently as possible and might even consider a lunchbox locker.

Ayup!
 
Sorry for the dumb question, but if someone was okay with keeping open diffs, they could just install the tundra 4.30 front and 100 series 4.30 third and be good? So no special tools required? I'd like to move up to 35s on my LX and would like to re-gear as cost efficiently as possible and might even consider a lunchbox locker.
That's exactly what I did. If you can find a 99 third member, there are some woth a factory locker. The electronic actuator wouldn't clear the cruiser sway bar, but it may clear the lexus, since you don't have KDSS.
 
I've looked for one with a factory locker with no luck so far. I haven't been able to use Car-part.com to locate any because I can't seem to select to correct part to look for. Neverminded, I'll likely go this route.

On a separate note I found an ebay listing for a eaton 14213-1 for $550 from a seller with good feedback. I don't know how they'd be able to price it that low, but I'm tempted to try it anyways.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom