DIY 4.3 Re-Gear

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I've looked for one with a factory locker with no luck so far. I haven't been able to use Car-part.com to locate any because I can't seem to select to correct part to look for. Neverminded, I'll likely go this route.

On a separate note I found an ebay listing for a eaton 14213-1 for $550 from a seller with good feedback. I don't know how they'd be able to price it that low, but I'm tempted to try it anyways.
Well.. if it’s legit..1 of the 2 he has is on its way to AR. You should get the other and we can have a regear party.
 
Well.. if it’s legit..1 of the 2 he has is on its way to AR. You should get the other and we can have a regear party.
The only thing stopping me is I’d rather have the ease of using a locked 100 series third but I can’t find anyone who has wired up the actuator yet.
 
The only thing stopping me is I’d rather have the ease of using a locked 100 series third but I can’t find anyone who has wired up the actuator yet.
Is it similar to a taco/4runner 8” actuator? Lots of those got wired up for install in mini trucks and buggies..
 
The only thing stopping me is I’d rather have the ease of using a locked 100 series third but I can’t find anyone who has wired up the actuator yet.
I agree.. but I have also been looking for the 100 and they are few and far between now.
 
Does the 100 locker require a long splined axle shaft like the 80? 8“ e-lockers are easier
 
Does the 100 locker require a long splined axle shaft like the 80? 8“ e-lockers are easier
Maybe a question for the 100-series section. I did check and for 100-series there are different right hand rear axle shaft part numbers for with locker or without, but I'm not sure whether that is specifically about the splines or something else.

Alternately @TheComedian converted his 200-series e-locker to manual control.. they may know whether the 200 and 100 series axle configs are the same.
 
The only thing stopping me is I’d rather have the ease of using a locked 100 series third but I can’t find anyone who has wired up the actuator yet.
 
Found quite a few on car-part.com today but I couldn’t pass up that price on the Eaton. They’ll be sending two to Arkansas now
Well, mine came in this week, looks legitimate, As far as I can tell anyways.

Now to find some 4.30s..
 
I used factory 4.30 gears sets. An 02 LX470 rear member will fit, as well as a front clamshell from a 4.7 liter tundra. You just need to swap over the 200 torque tube and remove the tundra stub shaft.
 
Maybe a question for the 100-series section. I did check and for 100-series there are different right hand rear axle shaft part numbers for with locker or without, but I'm not sure whether that is specifically about the splines or something else.

Alternately @TheComedian converted his 200-series e-locker to manual control.. they may know whether the 200 and 100 series axle configs are the same.
They should be pretty the same. Don’t know if inside the gear is something different but the original Toyota e-lockers are the same on the 100 and the 200. Toyota used even the same switch from the 100 in the rear locker of the 200.

Btw manual switching the rear locker with bowden is pain in the ass but it works kinda well… but the idea grows slowly that I maybe still should spend the 600€ für the original part hehe
 
Got my 4.30s in and the locker wired up. What is the preferred method to confirm that the locker is locked?
Burnout on dry pavement?

Just kidding of course 😝
 
Got my 4.30s in and the locker wired up. What is the preferred method to confirm that the locker is locked?
I considered putting an led somewhere when I was switching it via Bluetooth. The aftermarket radar detector PO put on my truck has blue led installed facing up below the tach and Speedo to flash the radar detector codes and alerts. It’s surprisingly well done and would be easy to replicate for this use.
Eventually I just got a light up switch and installed that.

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Got my 4.30s in and the locker wired up. What is the preferred method to confirm that the locker is locked?

Other than a potential light on a switch confirming power to the locker... which doesn't guarantee the locker has physically engaged yet.

The only real way to know it is engaged is to do some turns. Should notice distinct complaint from the tires that they are scrubbing with no differential action.
 
Other than a potential light on a switch confirming power to the locker... which doesn't guarantee the locker has physically engaged yet.

The only real way to know it is engaged is to do some turns. Should notice distinct complaint from the tires that they are scrubbing with no differential action.
This was what I thought I’d need to do but was curious if anyone had a better way. I ended up using the Eaton switch and it’s lighting up when engaged but otherwise no indication that it’s locked. Guess I’m off to do some donuts

Also, thanks for the awesome thread.

Burnout on dry pavement?

Just kidding of course 😝
I’m sorely tempted to see if I can get these 35s to break loose now that I’m regeared
 
This was what I thought I’d need to do but was curious if anyone had a better way. I ended up using the Eaton switch and it’s lighting up when engaged but otherwise no indication that it’s locked. Guess I’m off to do some donuts

Also, thanks for the awesome thread.


I’m sorely tempted to see if I can get these 35s to break loose now that I’m regeared
That was fast… making me feel lazy. I just put my locker on the shelf for now.
 
Got my 4.30s in and the locker wired up. What is the preferred method to confirm that the locker is locked?
Easy if you have access to a lift, or 4 jack stands
 
Does anyone know whether the AHC system has to be depressurized in order to get the cv’s pulled out far enough to swap the front third member?

Like in order to give the cv enough space to get out, do you have to disassemble the front strut?
 

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