Well.. if it’s legit..1 of the 2 he has is on its way to AR. You should get the other and we can have a regear party.
DIY 4.3 Re-Gear
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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The only thing stopping me is I’d rather have the ease of using a locked 100 series third but I can’t find anyone who has wired up the actuator yet.
Is it similar to a taco/4runner 8” actuator? Lots of those got wired up for install in mini trucks and buggies..
I agree.. but I have also been looking for the 100 and they are few and far between now.
Found quite a few on car-part.com today but I couldn’t pass up that price on the Eaton. They’ll be sending two to Arkansas now
Maybe a question for the 100-series section. I did check and for 100-series there are different right hand rear axle shaft part numbers for with locker or without, but I'm not sure whether that is specifically about the splines or something else.
Alternately @TheComedian converted his 200-series e-locker to manual control.. they may know whether the 200 and 100 series axle configs are the same.
Putting a locked 99 OE LC axle in a 2000 Land Cruiser
Last week @J1000 alerted me to some various 100 series (LC and LX's) that were at the north Denver PullandPay. The 98/99 LC is always intriguing becuase they had the option to be equipped with a factory rear locker. When I got there Jimmy was already getting some stuff and someone maybe had some...
risingsun4x4club.org
Well, mine came in this week, looks legitimate, As far as I can tell anyways.
Now to find some 4.30s..
Mine came in as well. The front carrier is an easy find for cheap but the rear carriers are a bit different story. Ended up paying $450 shipped for a mint one
They should be pretty the same. Don’t know if inside the gear is something different but the original Toyota e-lockers are the same on the 100 and the 200. Toyota used even the same switch from the 100 in the rear locker of the 200.
Btw manual switching the rear locker with bowden is pain in the ass but it works kinda well… but the idea grows slowly that I maybe still should spend the 600€ für the original part hehe
I considered putting an led somewhere when I was switching it via Bluetooth. The aftermarket radar detector PO put on my truck has blue led installed facing up below the tach and Speedo to flash the radar detector codes and alerts. It’s surprisingly well done and would be easy to replicate for this use.
Eventually I just got a light up switch and installed that.
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Other than a potential light on a switch confirming power to the locker... which doesn't guarantee the locker has physically engaged yet.
The only real way to know it is engaged is to do some turns. Should notice distinct complaint from the tires that they are scrubbing with no differential action.
This was what I thought I’d need to do but was curious if anyone had a better way. I ended up using the Eaton switch and it’s lighting up when engaged but otherwise no indication that it’s locked. Guess I’m off to do some donuts
Also, thanks for the awesome thread.
I’m sorely tempted to see if I can get these 35s to break loose now that I’m regearedBurnout on dry pavement?
Just kidding of course
That was fast… making me feel lazy. I just put my locker on the shelf for now.
Easy if you have access to a lift, or 4 jack stands
Does anyone know whether the AHC system has to be depressurized in order to get the cv’s pulled out far enough to swap the front third member?
Like in order to give the cv enough space to get out, do you have to disassemble the front strut?
Like in order to give the cv enough space to get out, do you have to disassemble the front strut?