So the title describes the project but there remains a question I would enjoy having a consensus of opinion on. How many of us use a rear brake proportioning valve. Some use it some don’t
all my fj40s with disc brakes had a valve from the factory,other than a short piece of brake line from napa to hook it up there is nothing to it .getting a valve shouldnt be to hard .the fsm shows where it goes
So the title describes the project but there remains a question I would enjoy having a consensus of opinion on. How many of us use a rear brake proportioning valve. Some use it some don’t
I use a Willwood proportioning valve just like @pb4ugo has. It still needs some adjusting; I have it cranked almost all the way down and my rear discs are still too touchy for my taste, i.e. they lock up before the front discs if I brake hard. I just got used to it and adjusted my braking style. One of these days I need to play with the valve some more and see if I can improve the bias.
Something like 80% of your stopping power is in your front brakes - the engine is above them and stopping puts more down pressure on the front end while unweighting the rear end.
A prop valve will be needed because of the small front brakes and ginormous rear brakes.
The imbalance can be mitigated by upgrading to the bigger 4runner front calipers & pads with an aggressive semi-met pad, and using the cheapest ceramic pad in the rear.
Something like 80% of your stopping power is in your front brakes - the engine is above them and stopping puts more down pressure on the front end while unweighting the rear end.
On my 1st 40 decades ago, I think I used the wilwood valve and it worked great. On the red 40 in the pic, I used the summit version and cranked it all the way and it isn't as effective. I also need to rebuild my master and bleed the brakes better that might be contributing to the bias. I should know the results of master in a week or two. My 1st 40 the braking is even which I prefer. I don't want my frts to lock up 1st.
Well it depends on which disc brake conversion. I have a late 70 40 with a dual circuit boosted master cyl. I went with GM brakes using the larger bolt on csaliper up front and the metric ones out back. The metric ones can have the e-brake option and NO proportioning valve, works great, if I were daily driving it I would add the valve as when you panic stop the rear does lock but with 38's its a crap shoot anyway.